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Greetings!
My girl and I are starting our 3rd official indoor grow!
We had some issues with our last run and although it wasn't a complete failure, we're hoping that we've learned from our mistakes for this grow.
We're changing up a few things with this grow, particularly, our soil mix and our approach to feeding.
You can check out our other grow journals here on GrowDiaries.com.
Our setup includes:
- 2x4 tent, 5ft high
- 7 gallon pots with soil medium
- 2 x 2ft Sunblaster LED strips, 6400K (for veg)
- 1 x HLG Elite 360 LED fixture (for veg & bloom)
- 2 x 2ft Sunblaster T5HO strips, 2700K (for bloom)
- AC Infinity Cloudline T6 exhaust fan
- various circulation fans
- humidifier
- external air conditioner/dehumidifier
Soil Mix:
- 60% Fox Farms Happy Frog
- 30% Fox Farms Ocean Forest
- 10% Dutch Treat Coarse Perlite
- "MYKE" mycorrhizae (5tbsp per gallon)
- Gaia Green Organic Dry Amendment 4-4-4 Veg (1tbsp per gallon)
- Checked soil with a pH meter, showing approximately pH 6.7
Germination Day -3:
- soaked 2 seeds in distilled water on seedling heating mat, set to 76F
Germination Day -2:
- After 16hrs, transferred seeds to damp paper towel on seedling heating mat @ 76F
Germination Day-1:
- Both seeds showing tap root
- Transferred seeds to 7 gallon pots with pre-moistened soil, checked at a pH of 6.7.
- Covered with humidity domes
Day 1:
- after barely 24hrs, the first sprout is visible
Day 2:
- 2nd sprout is showing
Day 3 & 4:
- Temp: 74-75F
- RH: 75%
Day 5:
- removed humidity domes for 4hrs
- watered very lightly, just around seedlings
Day 6:
- removed humidity domes
- installed small circulation fan, mounted at top of tent, angled down towards but not directly on seedlings.
Day 7:
- RH: 50-55%
- adjusted humidifier to increase average RH to 60-65%
- Temp: 68F (lights off), 75F (lights on)
Day 8:
Week 1 went pretty well. Unfortunately, i think the humidity domes were helping filter the light intensity and when i removed them the seedlings became light stressed.
I've moved the two 24W LED light strips up a couple of inches. Light levels are reading approximately 11,000 LUX at seedlings.
Day 9:
- no change
Day 10:
- watered both plants lightly with a 70 ppm solution of Remo Nutrients' "Micro", "Grow" and "VeloKelp". Only .25ml of each per gallon of water. Our tap water sits at around 25-30ppm and the total ppm measured was 101.
- water pH @ 6.4/6.5
Day 11:
- Increased circulation fan speed to provide gentle movement of seedlings, to encourage stem strength.
Day 12:
- no change
Day 13:
- watered lightly with dechlorinated tap water, pH'd to 6.4
Day 14:
- Increased HLG Elite 360 fixture intensity from 10% to 20%
- Lowered fixture from 48" above canopy to 36"
- Plants receiving approximately 14-16,000 lux, an increase of about 3-4,000 lux.
Week 2 was mostly uneventful.
Seedlings seem to be growing pretty slowly. Our light levels have been slightly lower than previous grows.
Throughout week 3 we'll be increasing the light levels by approximately 5% each day until we're somewhere around 25,000 LUX.
We've currently got some fungas gnats infesting our house plants, including a couple of orchids that were badly infested.
We've been using "gnatrol" and a top dressing of diatomaceous earth, which has been working pretty well.
I've noticed a couple in the grow tent, but we're just using the sticky traps in there for now, hoping that treating the houseplants will rid us of the problem.
We'll also start lightly feeding this week, using Remo Nutrients.
Day 15:
- Increased HLG Elite 360 intensity from 20% to 25%
- Distance to HLG Elite 360: 36"
- Distance to the two Sunblaster LED's: 12"
- LUX: approx. 20,000
Day 16:
- watered with Remo Nutrients' "Micro", "Grow", "MagNifiCal" & "Velokelp" in a 180ppm solution, which was approximately .5ml of each per gallon of dechlorinated tap water.
- pH adjusted from 6.1 to 6.4.
Day 17:
- increased light intensity of HLG "Elite 360" fixture, from 25% to 30%.
- raised the two Sunblaster 6400K LED strips up by 2" to maintain 12" distance to canopy.
- noticed 1 or 2 new fungus gnats on the sticky traps.
Day 18:
- no water
- added new sticky traps
Day 19:
- no water
- started LST on plant #1
- no new fungus gnats noticeable
Day 20:
- watered each plant with approximately 1L of a 220ppm nutrient solution. Added slightly more CalMag than the rest of the nutrients... 1ml/gal of "MagNifiCal" and .75ml/gal of the rest.
- moved pots off floor, onto wire racks.
- Sunblaster LED strips now only 6" from canopy. I'll see how they react and will adjust as necessary.
- possible magnesium deficiency just barely noticeable on some leaves.
Day 21:
- increased light intensity of HLG "Elite 360" fixture from 30% to 35%.
LUX = 26 to 27,000
Week 3 ended with us giving a foliar feeding of 800ppm magnesium sulfate, just before lights out period on day 21. This equated to approximately .75 tsp of epsom salt USP per gallon of water.
We're hoping this helps address what we believe was a mag deficiency showing up mostly in the leaves of plant #2 but also slightly in plant #1.
Plant #2 is also currently showing some clawing... perhaps a Nitrogen def?? I'm keeping my eye on it.
Day 22:
- watered lightly with tap water, pH adjusted to 6.3.
- reduced humidifer to lower setting, bringing average RH down from 65% to 58% average.
- LUX: 26,000
- Temp: 67-76F
Day 23:
- increased light intensity of HLG "Elite 360" fixture from 35% to 45%, and raised the fixture by about 2", providing 28-30,000 LUX across canopy.
- the magnesium sulfate foliar feed seems to have helped a little. Plant #2's leaves are looking a bit better. I'm not sure how often it's safe to foliar feed epsom salt but it does look like it could use another.
Day 24:
- watered each plant with .5 gallons of a 280ppm nutrient solution, which included 60ppm of magnesium sulfate.
Temp: 67F (lights off); 79F (lights on)
RH: 58-66%
Day 25:
- foliar fed both plants at lights-out with a 380ppm magnesium sulfate solution. pH 6.3.
Day 26:
- Plant #2 continues to show magnesium deficiency as well as a bit of calcium deficiency on one of the lower leaves. I picked up "CaliMagic", which has a lower nitrogen content than the "MagNifiCal" i've been using.
- Plant #2 showing pretty bad "clawing" of leaves, assumed to be from excess nitrogen.
- Plant #1 doesn't seem to share the same afflictions.
- increased light intensity to 60%
- added a 2700K T5HO light. Will remove the 6400K LED strips before end of week, as these girls are clearly into flowering stage.
Day 27:
- increased light intensity from 60% to 70%. This caused my temperatures to go slightly higher and i had to resort to turning the portable A/C unit on.
- swapped out the 6400K LED strip lights for 2700K T5HO's.
- Temp: 66-80F (averaging 79F during lights on)
- RH: 55-64%
- did some more LST on plant #2. Mostly left plant #1 alone except for some leaf tucking. Also removed the tie-down from the main growing top.
- watered with 400ppm of General Hydroponics' "CaliMagic" cal/mag formula. Water pH = 6.3/6.4
- Magnesium deficiency on plant #2 seems to be getting a tiny bit better. The leaf with the calcium deficiency showing looks about the same.
Day 28:
- noticeable improvement in plant health. Much more perky and more uniform colour. Some burnt tips on plant #2.
- reduced light intensity from 70% to 65% and lowered the fixture 4-5 inches closer to the canopy. This helps keep my temps in range without having to use my A/C, using only passive intake of fresh outside air.
- LST on both plants
As we move into week 5, we're keeping a close eye on plant #2, which is showing some different characteristics than plant #1, namely, nutrient deficiencies.
We seem to be dealing with it okay so far, having reduced the nitrogen input and increased the calcium and magnesium. I think these girls are anxious for some phosphorous and potassium but we're being cautious and will be feeding under 400ppm, starting tomorrow.
Day 29:
- increased HLG Elite 360 fixture's light intensity, from 65% to 70%.
- minor LST adjustments and some leaf tucking to both plants.
- installed reciprocating fan at top of tent, blowing fresh intake air across the light fixture and down to the plants.
Day 30:
- watered with a 500ppm nutrient solution, 4ml per gallon of Remo Nutrients' Flowering line, but with General Hydroponics' "CaliMagic" replacing Remo's "MagNifiCal", due to the lower Nitrogen content.
- pH'd to 6.2/6.3
- minor LST adjustments
Day 31:
- calcium deficiency is showing up more on plant #2. Is there PK deficiencies as well? I'll continue feeding cal-mag and flowering nutes this week but i need to do a runoff test, and/or maybe a slurry test.
Day 32:
- watered with a 270ppm solution of "CaliMagic" (Cal/Mag).
- pH'd to 6.4
- slurry test done with 100ml of soil and 200ml of distilled water at pH7.0. Tested slurry after 5 minutes, had a pH of 6.1.
Day 33:
- Plant 2 still showing a severe deficiency, which i assume is still calcium & magnesium, although the stems of the leaves are very purple and despite the genetics, i think this is indicative of deficiency issues as well.
- Oddly, Plant 1 is not showing the same issues.
Day 34:
- did some light defoliation, removing a few small, lower shoots from the lower branches and a few of the lowest fan leaves.
- increased HLG "Elite 360" fixture intensity from 75% to 80% (approx. 145 watts per each QB96 board).
- Temp: 78F (lights on); 62-66F (lights off)
- RH: 46-55% (lights on); 60-62% (lights off)
Week 5 seemed like it was coming together okay. I thought we were on the right track dealing with the nutrient deficiencies showing up in the leaves.
All of a sudden, over the course of 24hrs, Plant #2 really broke out in a "rash" of leaf deficiency symptoms.
We made a point to immediately do what we should have been doing 2 weeks ago, which was to test our runoff ppm levels.
I felt like we'd gone very light on the nutrients so far and that was part of the reason the plants were showing deficiencies. Instead, given our findings, i suspect the deficiencies could have been caused by lockout...
Week 6 (Flowering week 3)
Day 36:
- runoff tests found both plants had initial ppm levels in the 5000+ range! 😮 (Plant #1: 5350ppm / Plant #2: 5600ppm)
- We flushed each plant with approximately 4 gallons of dechlorinated, oxygenated tap water, pH'd to 6.5/6.6 until readings were under 2000ppm.
- runoff pH of each plant was 6.1-6.2
- increased HLG "Elite 360" light intensity from 75% to 80%
- humidifier disconnected
Day 37:
- no change
Day 38:
- calcium deficiency worsening
- soil is still damp from flushing on Day 36 so we're going to wait 1 more day before resuming light feedings.
Day 39:
- watered with dechlorinated tap water, pH'd to 6.5/6.6 until runoff
- runoff from plant #2 tested at over 2600ppm, plant #1 tested at close to 3000ppm
- flushed each plant with approximately 4 gallons of water but ran out of dechlorinated water. Plant #2 runoff dropped to about 1800ppm, while Plant #1 was still around 2000ppm. I wasn't sure if it would be better to continue flushing with straight (non-dechlorinated) tap water, or to leave as is and hope that the plant can handle the 1800-2000ppm levels.
- plant #1 isn't showing near the same colour changes as plant #2.
Day 40:
- I think skipped a day in the journal somewhere this week... I think i might've gotten days 39 & 40 swapped around here... not sure...
- no change overall
- Plant #2 looks about the same, no improvement but not worsening.
Day 41:
- what a disheartening difference a day can make! Plant #2 has seen a marked decline in health since yesterday. Leaves are becoming very brown and blotchy, curling up and overall just looking terrible. I'm afraid to feed more, given the runoff levels were still fairly high after yesterday's flush. The weird thing is that Plant #1, although showing a few spots on a couple of leaves, is not having the same issues. I'm scratching my head, wondering why such a difference between the two plants?
- both plants are still quite damp from flush on Day 39. We positioned the circulation fan on the floor so that it's blowing against the pots, hopefully to dry them out a bit faster. We've also increased our fan exhaust speed, bringing the overall RH down to about 48-50%.
Day 42:
- did slurry test with soil from Plant #2, taken from about 1/2 down the side of the pot. Used demineralized water, pH 7.0. After 30 seconds the ppm readings were 600. After 10 minutes, this rose to 670 ppm.
- Plant #2's deficiency definitely looks like Phosphorus... the curled, brown leaves, red leaf stems... am i wrong?
- We will plan to water a bit later today, trying to give the soil as much time to dry out as possible without letting the deficiency go on for too long. We will plan to feed with a relatively weak solution of Remo's Bloom & Astroflower, probably around 300ppm, aiming not to exceed 400ppm.
UPDATE:
- Watered with a 350ppm solution of Remo's Bloom & Astroflower, as well as GH's "CaliMagic"... approximately 2ml of each per gallon of water.
Oddly, GrowDiaries is not saving my weekly updates properly and keeps reverting my day and night temperatures to 50F.
The actual temps are:
Day: 78F
Night: 64F
Day 43:
- Defoliated Plant #2 by removing half a dozen of the worst damaged leaves.
- lights off temperatures reached cooler than normal, down to 60F. We set our dehumidifier to run for 1 hr, in the middle of the 4hr dark period, which blows warm air onto the tent, helping to keep the temperature inside the tent above 64F.
Day 44:
- I'm wondering if the cold, outside air has contributed to Plant #2's issues. I've been racking my brain trying to figure out what sort of differences Plant #1 and #2 have experienced and i realized that my intake duct comes in above Plant #2. I had it aimed down just above the light fixture, to keep the lights cool but this could have been creating a very cool draft dropping onto Plant #2. Could this explain the increased colour? More importantly, would this affect the way Plant #2 uptakes/metabolizes it's nutrients?
This is the only difference i can think of between the two plants. I adjusted the fresh air intake so that the duct is more horizontal, rather than pointing down above Plant #2. The outside air is anywhere from 2-10 celsius, which helps the tent stay at 77/78F but air that cold can't be good to have it spilling out directly over the plant, i imagine.
Day 45/Day 46:
- Not much change here. We probably should have watered on Day 46, as the pots were very light/dry but our schedules found us away from home.
Day 47:
- Watered with dechlorinated tap water, pH adjusted to 6.3
- We started dechlorinating our water by using an air pump, with 2 air stones submerged in the water. This supposedly helps dechlorinate the water much faster than simply leaving it to stand. The odd thing is that our tap water is typically pH 7.0 but after using the air stones for 2-4hrs, the pH drops to 5.7! I have to do some research to see what these air stones are made of... i'm concerned it may not be good for the plants but they're the same one's people use in fish tanks, so if they're safe for fish, they should be safe for plants... right?!
Day 48:
- buds on both plants continue to grow and add density.
- Plant #2 seems to be doing a little better.
Week 8!
We've seen some challenges leading up to this point so far, with Plant #2 showing the results of what insanely high EC levels can do and how important it can be to know what's going in to the soil and what's coming out.
Luckily, things seem to be straightening out and both plants are putting on bud weight.
Day 50:
- did some very light defoliation, removing a few fan leaves that were blocking bud sites on both plants.
- the smell is starting to get much stronger than it was last week.
Day 51:
- watered with a 310ppm nutrient solution, using 3ml of Remo's Bloom nutrients + GH's CaliMagic per gallon of dechlorinated (by aeration) tap water.
Day 52:
- nothing to report
Day 53:
- tent temperatures reached a bit higher than normal due to warmer outside temperatures. 80F instead of 78F, for approximately 8hrs.
Day 54:
- Plant #2 has an extremely sweet smell, sort of like grape.
- Plant #1 is smells similar but not quite as sweet and not quite as much grape.
Day 55:
- Probably should have watered today but we're leaving it one more day.
Day 56:
- watered with plain, dechlorinated (by aeration) tap water.
- used small amount of bloom nutrients to adjust pH from 7.1 to 6.4, resulting in a weak 55ppm nutrient solution.
- watered to runoff (maybe 10%).
- Plant #2 runoff testing at 6.3 pH and 1850ppm, which is higher than we expected.
- did some light foliage trimming, mostly on plant #2, to remove dead and mostly-dead leaves.
Week 9...
Lots more smell coming off these plants this week. The carbon filter is doing it's job perfectly, eliminating all traces of smell at the exhaust point.
Day 57:
- moved the two Sunblaster T5HO's up a couple inches. These lights have been helping to increase the light reaching the lower bud sites.
- plant #2 appears to be foxtailing pretty badly, hopefully it doesn't get much worse.
Day 58:
- starting to see some amber trichomes on the buds, more so on Plant #1
- smell is very tropical, fruity and sweet.
Day 59:
- nothing to report
Day 60:
- watered with plain dechlorinated tap water, pH 6.4
Day 61:
- approximately 25% amber trichomes on Plant #1, 10% on Plant #2
- getting close!
Day 62:
- this was the final day of light. We started a 48hr dark period before harvest.
Day 63:
- 24hrs of dark period left
- reduced circulating fan speeds
- closed fresh air intake, drawing instead from the room that our tent is in.
Temp: 66F
RH: 57%
These plants were a lot of fun to grow. They were big Magnesium and Calcium hogs, using higher doses of Cal-Mag supplement than expected. They grew very well once the roots got established and despite some of the less-than-ideal environmental factors and grower errors, they still put on weight. I think if we were to grow them again, we'd use 5 gallon pots instead of 7's.
They're a relatively compact growing strain and of course the colours were fantastic. The smell during the last few weeks of flowering was very pleasant... a mix of tropical, berry and with some similarities to a "lemon sour diesal".
One of our plants turned a very dark purple, the other is less intense but still a very pretty couple of plants to grow.
Harvest!
After 48hrs of darkness and temperatures of 60-66F, the plants had a great colour and smelled incredible. My girl did the honours and after a light "wet trim", removing fan leaves and cleaning up the buds a little, she chopped and hung the whole plants to dry. She even set up the tripod and camera to document the event for us! 😁
I'm hoping to be home by the weekend and hoping to get a 6-7 day drying time before we trim the buds for curing.
I'll update this final week of the journal as the drying and subsequent curing progresses, as well as giving a smoke report after 30 days of curing.
Weight reports will come near the end of drying.
Update 1: Drying day 5
- my girl reported to me that the buds were starting to feel crisp on the outside but still had some "squish" to them.
I wish i was there to be able to help with the trimming duties but she's got it under control.
She reported that Plant #1 resulted in 84g of buds and Plant #2 came up with 70g of bud and another 20g of airy larf that will only be used for cooking.
The buds were put into jars with mini hygrometers and will be "burped" when the RH exceeds anywhere from 66 or higher.
We plan to cure for 1 month at a minimum but it's likely these will get anywhere from 3-6 months.
I'm trying to look at your plants and in my head it's "tits YAY", oh right there's plants.. Ass oh yea... oh right's there's plants.. Is she wearing Ankle Cuffs? she is ohh yea baby... RIGHT there is plants dude.. This might just be too much for me sir... Thanks for almost making my head explode Your diary needs a warning or something HA HA HA..
@MovingOn, That's pretty hilarious! ...and we're named as the inspiration?! You gotta have a sense of humor in this world, i guess 😂
Peace, Love & Unity
@VanCplGrows, Well thank you for your time and consideration. I do truly appreciate your point of view. I believe if they were running a contest the subject matter given the contest name "Naked Buds" would be entirely appropriate and definitely more so of a viewers choice type situation. That doesn't surprise me at all. Often times beautiful women are used for promoting ideas and subject matter. "We need people in suits who work on Wall Street, we need doctors and scientists and politicians and ambassadors. We need variation of colour, class and creed in our community. We need those who are well spoken, eloquent and admirable... however... i believe we also need punks, hippies, poets, musicians and outcasts... we need hillbillies and hipsters and globetrotters... we need sanity and insanity alike... we need fringe and eccentricity, creativity, controversy and cosmic consciousness. Not all pilgrimages to the Cannabis lifestyle take the same path, nor do they require the same representation. " This is great it's brilliant I agree with it. I just find this statement to be in direct contradiction to the presentation of your diary. It does not "feel or look" inclusive or welcoming. I would not show it to my mother, I would show many other diaries to her. Funny thing is I know my mom looks at porn but I know she's old fashion and won't understand the connection your trying to make. That's my opinion but I'm done no more, Thank you for your time, Peace and love, Respect for you and yours honestly. I'm here for the plants.
@Bloom_Room_By_Jared, Official Disclaimer: we can not be held responsible for damages or loss caused by breasts, nipples or sexually suggestive gardening. 😄✌️
Beautiful grow and wife! Lol. Don’t make me start putting my wife’s massive tits on display in my grows lol.
Happy growing! Running this strain right now
Okay I'm gonna admit she does sexy way better then I do. I mean I tried for sexy and went right over sexy and landed on Weird. We need to collaborate do a remix version you know lol.. My garden, your lady lol. I'll bring the joints and I'll even make another marijuana leaf bikini. I think we'd be almost guaranteed to win photo of the month. We'll split the prize 😁 clothes for me (everyone knows I need them) and seeds for you ha ha ha.
Was just checking out your grow(grows). I see you are using FFHF and FFOF for your soil mixture w/ perlite and mycos. Using this alone is probably good for 4-6 weeks and could actually be a bit on the hot side for autos sometimes. Then your adding Gia green also. Then your using Remo nutrients on top of all that. Personally I would try just using the foxfarm soil with remo nutes and skip gia green. On autos they usually start showing cal/mag issues around week 6. Which means the issue goes back to around week 3 or 4. I typically start adding in my cal/mag end of week 3 beginning of week 4. I think your looking at an excess of Potassium or Calcium. The proper proportions are typically 4 parts potassium to 2 parts calcium to 1 part magnesium. If any of these are out of proportion "each" one can lockout absorption of one another. So too much potassium blocks calcium and magnesium,too much calcium blocks potassium and magnesium, too much magnesium blocks potassium and calcium. You have the double,triple wammy because your pots are so large 7 gallons the roots are probably just starting to fill in the lower portion of your pots where the concentration of unused nutrients have been concentrating. 5000+ppm is like totally insane! Even 2000 ppm is still a bit high using a 0.70 scale tds meter. I'll bet the concentration will bounce back up over 2000 ppm as the soil dries. She should be down in the 1050 (1.5 e.c.) to 1260 ( 1.8 e.c.) range. This still puts you in a tough situation because the gia green is still slowly dissolving in the soil. It's impossible to tell what nutrients were flushed out and what was left behind. The lower fan leaves showing the deficiency will only get worse I would leave them on as long as possible the damage won't reverse itself. The good news is the newer growth looks pretty good with some minor issue starting to show. I would just let her dry out a bit then use plain water until the point of runoff to see where you stand if she's still really high flush her again but take her lower if needed. There's no really simple way to fix this just ride out the storm she's in bloom so over the next few weeks she will be consuming more of the excess nutes. You may not need to add any more nutrients until you are sure she's using them up. Hope this helps, sometimes when we look at our grows we get tunnel vision and someone from the outside looking in sees the bigger picture. 👍
@Philindicus, Cool, i'll check that out! I've been very interested in trying coco but definitely need to do a bit more research before venturing down that path.
@VanCplGrows, you should check out the grower Momgrowschronic she just did a nice FB green crack using coco coir and Gia Green nutes. She just switched from soil to coco. She may be able to give you a bit of insight using Gia Green nutes. Don't get me wrong Remo nutes has a great line up but mixing other nute brands can sometimes cause issues.
@Philindicus, Thank you for the great advice! I really felt like we went lighter on the soil mix for this run then our last run but I'm definitely seeing a lot of the same issues so what you're saying makes total sense.
I was thinking that we simply had an N tox until i discovered those runoff readings... Yikes! I wasn't sure about what to do for our next watering but again, your advice makes sense so i'll do some more runoff tests with plain, pH'd water to see where we're at.
We very much appreciate the help! 🤝
Lower ppm under 1000, have two types of water. One batch with nutrients and one batch with additives. My nutrient batch 1000 ish and my water with additional additives is around 550. Calmag goes with nutrient mix.
Butt nice boobs did I say that i meant buds, I appreciate I mean I apologize . Very lucky man.
I’m a followerererer for sure
@@HiddenColorado, Thanks, we'll definitely try and get our ppm a bit lower. When you say one batch of water with additives, what sort of additives do you mean? I'm not sure i know the difference between additives and nutrients.
hellow Van. I found this information in my plantcare book, about phosphorus problem.
Growing marijuana rarely yields plants that are de cient in phosphorus, but it is a possibility. The plant will start to exhibit symptoms like darkening leaf colors and slow growth. Over time, the leaves will start to curve back toward the plant and turn a tannish, brown color. Petioles and other plant parts start exhibiting darker, blue or red colors. Phosphorus is most
important during the owering period as a reproductive agent, but it also helps strengthenthe root system and the stems. If there is not enough phosphorus during the owering period, the marijuana plants may not yield at their highest capacity.
To eliminate the phosphorus de ciency, you need to nd a fertilizer that has an NPK ratio with a higher amount of P. Bloom fertilizers and high-phosphorus guano can effectively mitigate the effect of the phosphorus de ciency. Use a water-soluble variety for the best results. For more information regarding the phosphorus de ciency, continue reading this article.
VanCplGrows
