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RQS Green Gelato Grow 3

Approved by Royal Queen Seeds
18
73
12
2879
2 years ago
FLO
LED / 1200W
Custom
VEG
LED / 180W
Custom
Indoor
Room Type
Hydroponics
Watering
LST
weeks 5,8,...
ScrOG
weeks 8,14,...
Topping
weeks 8,3,...
HST
weeks 8,9
Photos & Videos
Grow Conditions
Week 6
Flowering
30
inch
cm
Height
11.81
inch
cm
Height
12 hrs
Light Schedule
31
°F
°C
Day Air Temperature
88
°F
°C
Day Air Temperature
5.8
pH
350
mS/cm
PPM
TDS
0.7
mS/cm
PPM
EC
60%
Air Humidity
18
°F
°C
Solution Temperature
64
°F
°C
Solution Temperature
18
°F
°C
Substrate Temperature
64
°F
°C
Substrate Temperature
28
°F
°C
Night Air Temperature
82
°F
°C
Night Air Temperature
36.98
gal
l
Pot Size
140
gal
l
Pot Size
16
inch
cm
Lamp To Plant Distance
6.3
inch
cm
Lamp To Plant Distance
700 PPM
CO₂ Level
0.92
gal
l
Watering Volume Per Plant Per 24h
3.5
gal
l
Watering Volume Per Plant Per 24h
Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
Potassium Silica
1.89 ml/gal
Fulvic Acid
1.89 ml/gal
Seasol
0.76 ml/gal
Amino Acids
7.39 ml/gal
Calcium Nitrate
14.79 ml/gal
Mono-ammonium Phosphate
0.59 ml/gal
Yucca
0.19 ml/gal
General Hydroponics (GHE) - pH Down
pH Down
0.19 ml/gal
General Hydroponics (GHE) - FloraMicro
FloraMicro
3.03 ml/gal
General Hydroponics (GHE) - FloraBloom
FloraBloom
3.79 ml/gal
General Hydroponics (GHE) - Liquid KoolBloom
Liquid KoolBloom
1.89 ml/gal
Cyco Platinum Series - Uptake
Uptake
1.89 ml/gal
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
Grow Technique Usage
ScrOG
Technique
Commented by Mospeada Mospeada
2 years ago

15/03:
One week into flower and the plants are going great. They look like they've doubled in volume. The feed has been the most exciting part. I'm going to make my own custom PK booster to the exact ratios I want it at. Foliar feeding made a difference...hard to compare or know how much of an affect but super tight internodal lengths and lateral growth everywhere. At the moment I don't know if any growers on here are able to get their plants to each as much calcium as mine do but it is my primary focus on the feed while maintaining adequate levels of everything else.

16/03:
I wanted to avoid a res change but I want to get ahead of the clogged pipes. Will be draining the system and installing bucket crates over the outlet. Hopefully it'll be enough so I won't have to worry about it for the rest of the grow. If I waited another week my pipes would have been clogged. Now that that's sorted I can go all out with the scrogging. Haven't changed the res yet. I added a lot of seaweed extract to give the roots another boost. May sound odd but instead of giving the plants a feed, I gave them 15 litres of tap water that was loaded with Ca and Aminos. I run RO the whole grow but whenever I do a res change, I just use regular dechlorinated tap water to flush it.

17/03:
Fig 1 - This is my first attempt at making a PK + Mg booster. It was just to see if I could get the salts to balance. Started off with RO and added yucca, then paper filtered the water. Just wanted the saponins in the yucca. I just guessed it but I went P > K > Mg. I took concurrent readings as I went along and it kept adding up. At this point the solution was pretty clear apart from a yellow tinge, similar to calcium. So I added the fulvic to chelate. A tsp of each for a total ppm of 3692. I haven't sat down to work out the math yet as I was expecting to see the minerals interact at some stage of the mixing process but it looks like the yucca really worked.

Fig 2 - How I do a res change. I run the outlet from the water chiller into a hose that runs off into the bathroom and while that's draining I'll be flushing at the same time with dechlorinated tap water. Then I fill 30l of RO water and drain it as much as possible. I then pump premixed solution straight back in and the change is done.

Fig 3 - Results from my attempt at making a bloom booster. On the left is 1ml/100ml of Liquid Kool Bloom. On the right is my own attempt. Pretty close.

About to mix up the batch for the res change. 12 hours earlier I thought I overfed the plants. I loaded even more calcium and upped the PK +Mg. The ppm still kept dropping from a starting point of 700 down to 567. From today I'll be making a permanent increase in certain ratios based off of last week. Silica, Micro and fulvic will remain the same. I'll be going a 4 - 10 - 10 ratio for another 10 days. After that I'll drop the N, P and up the K to 3-7.5-15.

18/03:
Took a day off, checked the ppm and pH but that was it.

19/03:
Added the next scrog. It's probably overkill and maybe even detrimental but I don't want as much vertical growth as last time. I might just do what I did on the first scrog. Use the small square scrog to keep them spread and set for a couple of days then swap it over with a big square scrog.

20/03:
Plants are drinking more again. When I first flipped to flower, they were drinking 15 litres plus every two days. By the end of the week I was adding 15 litres a day. It's past the half way point of week two and the plants are now up to 25 litres a day.

First signs of flower began today.

Fig 4 - Rejigged the ventilation. Hung the CO2 bags. On opposite ends, short ducting is run from the port holes to the fan below. This way, fresh air is being drawn in semi actively while not disrupting the CO2 that sinks below. To ensure this I have run extraction ducting from the centre of the tent, actively through two 450cm2/min fans. Overall, there is negative pressure.

21/03:
Last day of week 2. I currently am tossing up whether to start threading the branches through the small square scrog or if I should repeat what I did the first time and replace it with the larger squares.

The CO2 bags I have are pretty much new so they're not producing much. Which I why I found it strange that I'd see a CO2 spike when the lights turned on. It ended up being the heat and humidity. The combination of both put my plants into respiration. Which is a really bad thing considering it should be photosynthesising. I was probably losing an hour a day. I've changed it so climate control kicks in an hour earlier to balance out the temp increase when lights go on

Grow Questions
Mospeada week 1 started grow question 2 years ago
Just found out I need sulphuric acid to dissolve Sulphate of Potash so it's water soluble (unless someone knows a better way?). Anyone know the formula for how much sulphuric acid I need and what the process is?
Resolved
Feeding. Other
Show all Answers (2)
Mospeada answered grow question 2 years ago
So far, what I've found is this. Usually, when metals react with certain dilute acids, they form their respective salts along with hydrogen gas and sometimes other by products.
In the case of potassium when it reacts with dilute sulphuric acid, the salt of potassium sulphate is formed in addition to hydrogen gas.

2K + H2SO4 = K2SO4 + H2

This is the reaction formula. So I guess I just need to research hydrogen and if it as a byproduct is anything to be concerned about.
Mospeada week 5 started grow question 2 years ago
Math check.
Making my own bloom booster, aiming for a 0-10-10 ratio. I use powders and know that 1 tsp = 5ml. If make up a 1 litre solution, to achieve 0-10-10 would that mean 980ml of water 2 tsp of mono-ammonium phosphate 2 tsp of potassium sulphate?
Resolved
Feeding. Other
Show all Answers (5)
Mospeada answered grow question 2 years ago
I'm using phosphoric acid to pH down but might switch to citric acid, I'm noticing the amino acids I use have been bringing the pH down bit by bit but I need something to lower the it after silica. I could switch to using a silica dioxide but I heard citric acid doesn't stay stable or gets eaten up or something; so it'll be good enough to keep my pH down as not to cloud my solution when I'm mixing it. Yeah the purple stems are a dead give away but the P deficiency happened in veg, I'm working it back up right now. In regards to the Yucca I use it for the Saponins it contains (wetting agents), it's an aim on this grow to have as little to no salt build up and the Saponins assist in this. I don't know how I can really determine it's effectiveness for that particular use. All I know is my solution is stable and I literally add a pinch so the bag I got will last me for years...if it doesn't go out of date before then. It's a bit hard to compare grows as hydro and soil are really different. Anyways, I'm going to attempt making the concentrate tomorrow. Good luck and happy growing :)
Mospeada week 12 started grow question 2 years ago
Brix Content
It's been quite difficult finding what range cannabis Brix can be. I just took my first reading with a simple refractometer. 6.5%. It doesn't seem very high but tomatoes are usually between 3.5-5.5. Has anyone done their own plants?
Open
Plant. Other
Show all Answers (1)
Mospeada answered grow question 2 years ago
I'm using the Brix count to determine how effective the extra Calcium I'm giving the plants is. There are many flow on effects to increasing calcium uptake...one of them is increased Brix. Would love for someone to show there results so I at least have a basis for comparison.
DeadwebsiteBoringcommunity answered grow question 2 years ago
Tomatoes are not even in the same family of plants as Cannabis plants.. People say tomatoes because they can look a like when younger.. This is where the "growing tomatoes" phrase comes from.. Your not growing tomatoes your growing Cannabis.
Jef79 answered grow question 2 years ago
Hello.. Hope you are well.. Very impressed with your work.. Well done n keep it up.. As to ur question.. All i know is the brix is a type of plant sugar that will help improve taste and unsure if it helps assimilation with other micro/macro's.. Im sure if ur saying tomato go between 3.3-5.5 id aim at low end on this grow then go higher end on nxt crop of gelato if possible then u'll know for sure of any difference in taste or oil production.. Hope all goes well n look forward to seeing ur end results.. Stay safe n gud luck on the research.. If i see anything related i will pass on info.. :+1::four_leaf_clover:
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