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RQS Green Gelato Grow 3

Approved by Royal Queen Seeds
19
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3351
4 years ago
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LED/180W
Custom
LED/1200W
Custom
Indoor
Room Type
LST
weeks 5, 8-9
ScrOG
weeks 5-8, 8-14
Topping
weeks 3-4, 8
HST
weeks 8-9
Grow Conditions
Week 5
Flowering
30
cm
inch
Height
12 hrs
Light Schedule
14+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
Potassium Silica
0.5 ml/l
Fulvic Acid
0.5 ml/l
Seasol
0.2 ml/l
9+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
LST
Technique
ScrOG
Technique
Commented by
Mospeada Mospeada
4 years ago
8/03: It's been a week since I harvested the last grow, in that time the flower tent was used to dry the buds and the current grow was still vegging. Did a complete clean out and reset plus made some adjustments to keep the environment as stable as possible. Transferred the clones over with minimal damage to the roots. Plants were topped twice. 9/03: Solution dropped 50 ppm after 24hrs. I firmly believe it was the calcium in the micro. Supplementing calcium from today. Noticed the Nitrogen in the Micro is in the form of urea. Next feed, Micro will be reduced to the point where it will be enough as not to overload on Nitrogen when I start using MAP for the next four weeks. Supplemented Ca+ aminos, 15 Litres, ppm was 900 but when added to res brought the solution back up to 424. 10/03: Starting ppm 404 topped up 15 litres to res, exact same feed without the added Ca. Will see if the pattern continues. If so than I should see a further drop in ppm from the insufficient amount of Ca that is present in micro. 11/03: PPM dropped like clockwork...370. plants are drinking more as well...took two days until I did a 15 litre top up. Making up the same feed with added Ca. Did a final reading before top up, 344. Top up recipe: L-Glutamic - 1/4 tsp L-Glycine - 1/2 tsp Calcium nitrate - 6 tsp Also started dropping the micro to 0.8ml/L, will work towards finding the right balance so I can feed the Ca along with the regular feed. Desperate for some MAP to arrive. Want to add just a slight amount of P but there's no better alternative for MAP I have on hand. I could add some more bloom but it will begin adding extra K I don't want just yet. So far I've kept a very stable solution, if things continue the way it's going I won't have to do a res change for at least a couple of weeks. It is a goal to do a no res change grow one day but I don't think it will be on this one. Res changes are only done when I've lost control of the feed and have no idea of the NPK ratios in the solution, typically when the ppm gets above 800. Final reading for the day 418ppm. 8ppm off from the last time I loaded. Right now I'm happy as can be with that. Over the last three days the plants are getting close to exactly what they need. No less, no more. This day was important to note as it was the first time I've tried foliar feeding. I'm using a seaweed extract by Seasol and Powerfeed by the same company. I use a 2:1 ratio of Seasol 2ml/L and Powerfeed 1ml/L then Yucca as a water dispersent. 12/03: Again the plants are feeding so consistently. Starting PPM 398. The only change Ive made to the feed is drop the micro by .2ml/L. Think I'm ready to finalise a complete week 1 feed chart. In really good place to respond to any changes in the plants behaviour. Also of note is that the pH has drifted and stayed at 5.6. I did the most minor adjustment last feed by not pH downing as much after the silica. However, I'm not going to fight the plant on this one. I've seen them in late flower drift up and stay at 6.3 happily. Also I would love not to do a res change so it would be interesting to see when the pH will start rising. 13/03: Seeing amazing results at the moment. Super tight internodal spacing on the new growth. I'm definitely pushing the boundaries with the lighting compared to last. Only 8 inches off canopy but leaf temp stays below 27 degrees. I'd put them closer if I wasn't so concerned with drop off on the edges. PPM is currently at 377 but it's still more than twelve hours before the next proper feed and PPM check. I estimate between 336-338. So far I believe it's pretty close to getting the P it needs but an extra 20-30ppm of it would keep the push going. PPM was at 355, so they've slowed a fraction compared to yesterday. Have a final solution recipe where I'll be feeding daily instead of every off day. Aiming for around 550 after feed and 500 before. MAP arrived...only added 1/8 of a tsp and it was enough to bring the ppm up by 40, strong stuff. Will cut back slightly next feed as I only wanted 20 ppm extra P per feed. Swapped the current trellis for nylon. It did a great job at keeping the plants stocky but I can't let them grow through that netting knowing I have to sort the root problem out in a couple of weeks time. 14/03: Today was the first day since Monday where I gave the plants a back to back feed. The vascular system has grown to make it's consumption almost double to what it was at the beginning of the week. Also, their appetite has come back with a vengeance, not even six hours after my top up feed had the ppm dropped below acceptable levels...338! I haven't worked out the math yet as I'm shit at it but it seems there is a correlation between how much more they are drinking to how much nutes they're eating. About to do another top up. Keeping the ratios the same apart from the Calcium nitrate. Bringing that back to 3 tsp per gallon. Gotten through a whole week with a consistent feed. I don't think I will have an issue with over feeding but with how I'm approaching this I may run into a deficiency in a couple of weeks. At the moment I haven't been supplementing any extra Mg. There's some in the bloom part 2 and some in the bloom booster. The current ratio I run is 4 - 8 - 10, The N and P I'm pretty sure of but don't know if the potassium in the silica is available to the plant as food. Also just realised I may see an N deficiency soon. I've never actually seen one before and have wondered how people can get them. If I do end up with one, I plan on bumping the Micro back up to 1ml/L and foliar feeding to bring them back, if it happens.
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Grow Questions
Mospeada
Mospeadastarted grow question 4 years ago
Just found out I need sulphuric acid to dissolve Sulphate of Potash so it's water soluble (unless someone knows a better way?). Anyone know the formula for how much sulphuric acid I need and what the process is?
Solved
Feeding. Other
like
Mospeada
Mospeadaanswered grow question 4 years ago
So far, what I've found is this. Usually, when metals react with certain dilute acids, they form their respective salts along with hydrogen gas and sometimes other by products. In the case of potassium when it reacts with dilute sulphuric acid, the salt of potassium sulphate is formed in addition to hydrogen gas. 2K + H2SO4 = K2SO4 + H2 This is the reaction formula. So I guess I just need to research hydrogen and if it as a byproduct is anything to be concerned about.
Mospeada
Mospeadastarted grow question 4 years ago
Making my own bloom booster, aiming for a 0-10-10 ratio. I use powders and know that 1 tsp = 5ml. If make up a 1 litre solution, to achieve 0-10-10 would that mean 980ml of water 2 tsp of mono-ammonium phosphate 2 tsp of potassium sulphate?
Solved
Feeding. Other
1 like
Mospeada
Mospeadaanswered grow question 4 years ago
I'm using phosphoric acid to pH down but might switch to citric acid, I'm noticing the amino acids I use have been bringing the pH down bit by bit but I need something to lower the it after silica. I could switch to using a silica dioxide but I heard citric acid doesn't stay stable or gets eaten up or something; so it'll be good enough to keep my pH down as not to cloud my solution when I'm mixing it. Yeah the purple stems are a dead give away but the P deficiency happened in veg, I'm working it back up right now. In regards to the Yucca I use it for the Saponins it contains (wetting agents), it's an aim on this grow to have as little to no salt build up and the Saponins assist in this. I don't know how I can really determine it's effectiveness for that particular use. All I know is my solution is stable and I literally add a pinch so the bag I got will last me for years...if it doesn't go out of date before then. It's a bit hard to compare grows as hydro and soil are really different. Anyways, I'm going to attempt making the concentrate tomorrow. Good luck and happy growing :)
Mospeada
Mospeadastarted grow question 4 years ago
It's been quite difficult finding what range cannabis Brix can be. I just took my first reading with a simple refractometer. 6.5%. It doesn't seem very high but tomatoes are usually between 3.5-5.5. Has anyone done their own plants?
Open
Plant. Other
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Answer
Mospeada
Mospeadaanswered grow question 4 years ago
I'm using the Brix count to determine how effective the extra Calcium I'm giving the plants is. There are many flow on effects to increasing calcium uptake...one of them is increased Brix. Would love for someone to show there results so I at least have a basis for comparison.
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DeadwebsiteBoringcommunity
DeadwebsiteBoringcommunityanswered grow question 4 years ago
Tomatoes are not even in the same family of plants as Cannabis plants.. People say tomatoes because they can look a like when younger.. This is where the "growing tomatoes" phrase comes from.. Your not growing tomatoes your growing Cannabis.
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Jef79
Jef79answered grow question 4 years ago
Hello.. Hope you are well.. Very impressed with your work.. Well done n keep it up.. As to ur question.. All i know is the brix is a type of plant sugar that will help improve taste and unsure if it helps assimilation with other micro/macro's.. Im sure if ur saying tomato go between 3.3-5.5 id aim at low end on this grow then go higher end on nxt crop of gelato if possible then u'll know for sure of any difference in taste or oil production.. Hope all goes well n look forward to seeing ur end results.. Stay safe n gud luck on the research.. If i see anything related i will pass on info.. 👍🍀
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Harrythehat
Harrythehatweek 5
Glad you know what you are doing, have always used a ready mixed havn't had time to study the intricacies of nutrient making I do 7 ml per litre self PH ing Ionic nutrient gives around 2.0 E.C. job done sweet asa nut. nice set up BTW 1200 watt lights how much electric do they actually use?
Harrythehat
Harrythehat
@Mospeada, was about to say have 2 x 600 hps over 8 x 4 area but that does not compare to 1200 of led for sure is that 1200 watts of actual electric or 1200 watts led cant wait for spyders too arrive have 800 watt giving 1600 watts for 8 foot x 4
Mospeada
Mospeada
@Harrythehat, Cheers, it's actually 1200 watts of true power, so a bit of overkill for a 4 x 8.
Coughy
Coughyweek 10
Are you running a Co2 tank or bags?
Mospeada
Mospeada
@Coughy, Can miss these comments sometimes....Yeah Co2 bags but I'll be switching to a burner for more control. They work well enough imo though.
StoneyMelony
StoneyMelonyweek 12
Nice, looks great !😋
Ferenc
Ferencweek 8
Nice one! @Mospeada
GRow_M8s
GRow_M8sweek 9
This canopy is beautiful m8. Well done! 👌
Resin_Randy
Resin_Randyweek 7
Very nice 🍀👌🏼
raptor65
raptor65week 3
Looking great 😎, All the best in your grow ,and having a great harvest 🙏, good luck 👍
grower_not_shower
grower_not_showerweek 14
I think you harvested too early, and it shows in the yield. With that setup and those QBs, you should get to 2.0-2.5 g/watt. You are at 1.3g/watt and the gentics of the plants look quite good. Next time, try living them another 2-3 weeks. The harvest time given by the seed breeder is 99% of the time bullshit to help sell the seeds.
Mospeada
Mospeadaweek 8
Thank's guys. Also, I realise I'm doing some scary things on my grow, thanks for taking the wait n see approach, cause even I don't know if I'm headed for trouble yet.