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Shade-grown 2020

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4 years ago
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Grow Conditions
Week 10
Vegetation
70
cm
inch
Height
14 hrs
Light Schedule
14+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
2+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
Defoliation
Technique
Commented by
TC_Connoisseur TC_Connoisseur
4 years ago
Well week 10 is here! And boy did I fall behind, but I’ve managed to streamline the process. Now that the plants are in the main pots with plenty of good rich soil I have moved away from my Active Aerated teas as they were taking up a lot of time and I had no temp control so my oxygen levels were always pretty depleted during the day time. My current method is simply top dressing and watering in, this saves me hours of work each week and has given me enough time to get my indoor tent back up. ~culling the herd~ I now have confirmation on all plants on sex so I will be culling the 3 males soon enough, in the meantime I would like to grow a short term cover crop to keep the soil healthy and alive, I wonder if anyone has any recommendations? ~dry nutrient, top dressing~ Although this method is fairly self explanatory I am still giving My technique some thought and doing it in a very specific way. As of now I am giving each plant 4Tbsp(60ml) of Roots Organic Nitro Guano, 4Tbsp(60ml) of Worm Castings every other week. These are being dispersed evenly around the plants inside of the soaker hose ring, this is done along with my little volcano mounds so that as I water the nutrients in with the hose the nutrients run down hill and are slowly incorporated into the soil each day by the drip irrigation, also every other day I am rinsing more down to the irrigation zone with my hose manually. I feel like this helps to moderate how much is going into the soil and also getting it deep into the soil with the slow drip irrigation running through it. Regardless the plants are very happy about it and I intend to continue this with the addition of Terp tea for bloom boosting.
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deFharo
deFharoweek 1
Buenas técnicas de cultivo, felicidades. ¿No necesitan las micorrizas raíces para prosperar? Yo hago semilleros de micorrizas con arroz o coco fresco, una vez que he conseguido el crecimiento del hongo en este medio, lo deshidrato y guardo para futuros cultivos.
deFharo
deFharo
@TC_Connoisseur, sí es posible lo que tu comentas. He conocido últimamente un método tradicional africano para la inoculación de micorrizas en el sustrato de la maceta o en pequeñas huertas. Y creo que tiene que ver con tu explicación, el concepto es dejar secar el material original (raíces y mantillo adyacente) con las micorrizas para que estas lancen sus esporas, las micorrizas permanecerán así hasta que la humedad y un sistema de raíces hagan revivir y prosperar a las micorrizas. Los africanos seleccionan una planta herbácea salvaje que destaque por su vigor, la arrancan del suelo con su sistema de raíces, envuelven en un paño o malla fina todo el cepellón de raíces, lo dejan secar completamente a la sombra, después como si se tratara de un salero, espolvorean a través del paño o malla encima del sustrato, por lo que dicen da muy buenos resultados. Intentaré probar este método en próximos cultivos. Saludos!!
TC_Connoisseur
TC_Connoisseur
@deFharo, Now I understand the question. To answer if mycorrhizae can grow in mulch I would say yes, it can grow in mulch in certain conditions. This is all anecdotal from my experience and at least one source, Chris Trump who seems to be very knowledgeable in Korean Natural Farming, KNF is where I took my ideas from and applied them to my projects. To start, Chris Trump’s way of collecting mycorrhizae or IMO from the forests included sifting through the top layer of natural leaf mulch around the base of mostly old growth trees, he would collect this and use it to boost his collection of Mycorrhizae. I took this idea to a mulch pile from last year when we ripped out lots of bushes and ground up roots, leaves, stems, trees, and basically all manor of plants; one possibly important note there is we literally ripped the plants from the ground so roots and all where mixed when the material was shredded. As this material composted I noticed a layer about 4”(10cm) into the mulch that extended some 4”-6” (10-15cm) into the pile that was rich in what appeared to be mycorrhizae. I grew this mycorrhizae into IMO 1 then IMO 2 I watered the IMO 2 in with seedling transplants and I noticed a significant amount of nice fuzzy roots and fuzzy mycorrhizae when I re-planted these. Although there was nothing scientific about the method I would say the Results were good and I would do it again. For the Spent Brewers grain this I nearly observed after using it as a mulch layer it was quickly taken over my fungus and made a good growth media for it, from there I did a larger batch with IMO 2 and was fairly happy with the growth on it. I believe Chris Trump uses Hazelnut shells in his video from his IMO 3
deFharo
deFharo
@TC_Connoisseur, sí, las técnicas de semillero de micorrizas con arroz y coco o la captura de MM, etc. vienen de Japón y Korea, su uso en agricultura orgánica es conocido hace tiempo. Mi pregunta iba dirigida a saber si en un compost la micorriza sobrevive, porque para la proliferación en los cultivos de este hongo, él necesita estar en contacto con las raíces de la planta. Lo cierto, es que tampoco tengo claro si el tiempo medio de un cultivo de cannabis en maceta es suficiente para el establecimiento del hongo. Yo lo aplico desde el primer trasplante, para dar tiempo al hongo a reproducirse, pero hasta ahora no he conseguido distinguir el hongo en mis sistemas radiculares, a diferencia de los Microorganismos de Montaña (MM) que si los veo proliferar y trabajar debajo del Mulch. Yo actualmente vivo en un apartamento y cultivo en macetas, con lo que estoy limitado en el uso de algunas técnicas para la multiplicación de las micorrizas, pero lo más interesante es crear un sistema de inoculación en plantas huésped y de esta manera tener un semillero vivo y constante del hongo micorriza. No he probado la multiplicación con restos de levadura de cerveza, la levadura inactiva de cerveza la uso en ocasiones para riego es una buena fuente de potasio, también la uso como materia seca para la elaboración de Bocashi.
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deFharo
deFharoweek 6
Para la extracción de ácido húmico, fulvico e himatomelanico, yo uso como materia prima leonardita, las extracciones las realizo por hidrólisis alcalina, también lo hago con bio fermentados. Un saco de 25kg de leonardita tiene un costo de aprox. de $25. y puedo sacar producto para nutrir 4 hectareas, para la fórmula básica sólo necesito: Un barril, Leonardita, Agua pura y KOH. Tengo varias formulaciones donde además de la leonardita como elemento principal, añado otros minerales y componentes orgánicos, el producto resultante es excelente, yo lo uso en diferentes fases de mis cultivos. Sigue mis diarios orgánicos, tengo tips sobre como hacer toda clase de preparados orgánicos. Saludos
deFharo
deFharo
@TC_Connoisseur, Hoy he hecho una actualización en mi diario 3M • Diesel donde muestro la creación de Humato potásico enriquecido con minerales. La semana que viene hablaré sobre la deshidratación y uso de este preparado. Saludos.
TC_Connoisseur
TC_Connoisseur
@deFharo, Very good information and after quickly looking at your diaries they are very detailed, I have some studying to do! Hope to see you around and I’ll be looking forward to reading your grows!
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 4
You have been putting in here some great Informations. Back to your Plants and Heat......Its the Roots who dont like it to get warm. So your goal is like cooling the Roots. That menas , diggin her into the garden, giving her bigass growpot. or you can take the pot you have and out it into another bigger pot around and put in here claypebbles that you water,,, The water that condensates from the claypebbles cools the growpot ( roots) I hope you understand my writings,,, because english is not my language. Weed can grow under nearly every condition... htat the fun fact. As long the roots are nicely cool and she gets enough water to transpirate your Plant will be fine Iam doing alot of Outdoors, with different growinpots or without. In summer iam watering them twice a day to make sure they are ok and toots stay cool In very hot Summers, Iam digging holes to put the pot into.. so the ground cools down my growingpot// the roots
TC_Connoisseur
TC_Connoisseur
@Mrs_Larimar, That is a very interesting point! I like the idea of burying them in the soil a lot. Right now they are only in the plastic pots(bags) because I am waiting on Male vs Female before planting, but no reason they can’t “beat the heat” semi while buried in their final home. I also use White pots for the reason of keeping the roots cool, black pots under my sun get very, very hot and would probably kill all of my beneficial bacteria/myco. I wish I could also water them during the day but my greenhouse is set up temporarily so that I can move it, hopefully this winter, to it’s final location. This means my water is all run in above ground hoses that get extremely hot and the water coming from the hose could have easily wilted a plant on-contact last week. Watering mornings and late nights was the best I could do to pump them full of water...speaking of that, time to water! And don’t worry about your English! I can’t even speak a second language so you have me beat there. Your input and experience is always valuable and appreciated!
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 2
Interesting... always good to see new mixes of substrate------ its not easy to change growmedias,,, and go with a new mix or a new one... crossing fingers it works
TC_Connoisseur
TC_Connoisseur
@Mrs_Larimar, Thanks you! I am curious as to how they will due, I have only ever strayed from Roots Organic or Nectar for the Gods twice before (an indoor grow and last years greenhouse) and the results were only ok. With any luck next year I’ll be back to my Roots and hopefully their Greenfields.
Mrs_Larimar
Mrs_Larimarweek 5
Nice to share your Thoughts about the Grow. I got to smile when you described the slugs on your soilbags^^.....happy growing