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4
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3 years ago
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Indoor
Room Type
HST
weeks 4-5
LST
weeks 4-6
ScrOG
weeks 4-6
Topping
weeks 4-6
Defoliation
weeks 4-6
Vermiculite
Grow medium
Coco Coir
Grow medium
Grow Conditions
Week 6
Vegetation
76.2
cm
inch
Height
24 hrs
Light Schedule
14+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
epsom salts
1.302 ml/l
hydrated lime - to neutralize soil ph measuring 8.0 during grow
3 ml/l
potassium silicate for foliar / neem spray
1 ml/l
7+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
LST
Technique
ScrOG
Technique
Topping
Technique
Defoliation
Technique
Commented by
Neo_007 Neo_007
3 years ago
Oof, so many lessons since the last check in, which was 12/20 12/21 In the aero cloner, I am noticing growth that is at least 50 - 60% faster than anything else. They rooted, and I left them in. Converted to DWC today to prevent roots in the pump. Given that speed, wondering if I should leave in DWC or devise an Aero plan for the bloom. After noticing root rot, emptied and disinfected my reservoir, refilled. Also had gotten feedback that my plants were waterlogged, so I turned off all irrigation and am waiting for them to try. I transplanted from 3gal to 7gal and only added 1/4 cup of RO to the bottoms, left the rest of the soil dry, to speed up the resolving of the overwatering. Was that the right call? In transplanted I put them in good soil, this one: https://www.roguesoil.com/rocket-fuel-components With these ingredients: Sphagnum Peat Moss, Perlite, Aged Forest Product, Coconut Coir, Green Waste Compost, Earthworm Castings, Glacial Rock Dust, Limestone (ph adjuster), Fertilizers, Mycorrhizal Fungi The hope was to devise an automated watering system. With this soil, is it impossible to automate watering? It is designed to be fast draining and light: "Rocket Fuel was designed for the grower who enjoys a fast draining and lighter medium. Based on growers grade Manitoban long fiber peat, Rocket Fuel is one of the best indoor and greenhouse blends on the market today. To make sure there is an instant punch of nitrogen available, we use a blast of powdered calcium nitrate. Rocket Fuel allows the farmer to transplant, water plants as needed, relax, and leave the Outlaw flying to us the first couple of weeks." I installed 1 quality recirc fan, need to install a 2nd one. And, I transplanted a couple of new clones, which TOOK OFF in the last 5 days and are already 1' tall! They were put into rocket fuel soil, in tiny tea bags like 10oz big, and put in an ebb and flow with 400ppm of nutes at 6.0PH, nutes had all the extras from fulvic to humic and a 1/2 gallon of super strong compost tea direct into the recirc reservoir. 12/22/2020 Brainstorming the possible causes to issues with the girls I checked the ph of the soil. 8.0 average!! What the f... I dug deep into google looking for causes and solutions: most likely cause I deduced, I had added molasses to the res in the last feeding... Was advised to ph balance to 6.0 for a while the res to fix it, I tried 5.5, perhaps foolishly, and my 1' tall clones revealed their very first signs of deficiency/toxicity for the first time. Damnit... hard lessons. Adjusted to 6.0. Cultiwool brand rockwool clones are literally a month behind the new clones and still looking sick as fu@#. Not sure what to do with that besides toss them. Theories: they seem waterlogged, and they are running a ph at 8.0... so maybe need either drippers with ph balanced ongoing watering, or to have been soaked prior to use instead of just had water run through them for a bit. pulled a clone out, it had been transplanted from oasis to the rockwool.. when the clones tried to make the transition from one media to the next, they turned yellow and stopped growing. Stumped. Tried flushing nutes with the hose through them to see if they would perk up. The grow tips perked a lil, but growth is at almost month behind everything else, so they went to the compost today. Still waiting for southern ags bacterial fungicide to treat the root rot, though by stopping watering, most of the plants recovered, only 2 showing still super stunted growth. They are plants that are 2 months old, so I dont want to toss them.. but need feedback on that. They still look stunted slowly recovering. Found directions on a brand of compost tea mix where the vendors suggest using it as a mix with actual molasses, a 1/4 cup, and 250ml of their powder, aerated, for 24 hrs... I used the recharge brand I had on hand and made 5 gallsons. Came out black, super thick. Connected up my drip emitters to all the girls and pumped it into them. 12 hrs later 97% had healthy growth tips. Theory: adding molasses to res caused ph of soil spike, overwatering and ph of soil at 8.0 and lights being too close caused nute lockout, nute lockout caused water uptake to slow, water uptake slowing and cheap unpure soil ( on 40% of them ) caused root rot, then super strong compost tea provided more ph range flexibility and helped the plants start to take in nutes, started to re-regulate them, having stopped all watering and transplanting into almost dry soil helped waterlogged status pass, and resulted in healthy grow tips on most, showing that the present state of the girls is actually doing ok. Thoughts? Critiques? Trying my best to make meaning of all this madness. General plan going forward: keep withholding water until I see signs of them needing water, then turn on the drip with RO that has no grow formula, ( the new soil has nutes in it ), but includes humic acids, fulvic, kelp, bacterial fungicide, silica, and cal mag, to support rebalancing, at 6.0, since my efforts to bring soil ph down by phing to 5.5 bit me in the ass already. Bought hydrated lime, but before using, further googling told me that was a mistake for acidifying soil, as is typically used for alkalizing acid soil. Whoops. any other solutions to soil that measures 8.0 ph?? should I just start measuring runoff and ignore the ph of the soil for now? planning to flip to bloom ASAP, just thinking I have to transplant the lil babies before I do. Is it ok to wait till after I flip to transplant? It would make life easier. Wanting to hook up another light and add some hydroton ebb and flow or dwc, but not sure if my breakers can hold it. I honestly think they cant... is it ok to try and use the breaker flipping as the indication that its too much? Or an affordable device I can buy to test how close it is to capacity? I don't want to introduce any fire risks, been super cautious about that. On that note, been looking for an affordable way to replace splitters connected to splitters, noticing a bit of a cluster f in that area and have not found a legit alternative yet that would not break the bank. 12/23 learned about lux, got a light meter, learned about daily integral, checked all the plants light levels, most were too high, those getting 80 DLI were frying, pulled all my lights back to give about 30 DLI. another super hard lesson. damn. 12/24 Put some small girls ( the clones that are kicking ass ) into hydroton. They are currently in the rockfuel soil in 10oz tea bags on ebb and flow, and since I added kelp and humic and fulvic the roots just freaking exploded out of the sides, they look crazy, pic attached... But in essence, after trying everything under the freaking sun, what I can see is working the best are those tea bags in ebb and flow every 3hrs getting flooded, and the aero, so I figure unless I want to go full out aeroponics, that transplanting the tea bag girls into hydroton is the closest thing to following my most successful pattern I can find. Ordered the parts needed. Googled how to prep hydroton, soaked in RO water, phed to 5.0, pumped out the cloudy water, refilled, phed to 5.0, checked 2h later, already at 6.3 again, phed to 5.0 again, will wait till tomorrow to check it, when it stabilizes at 6.0 I add 1/4 strength bloom nutes, soak for another hr or two and call it done. I desperately want to automate watering, and I don't know that I have set myself up to do that thanks to feedback from @BluntZilla ( thank you ), so I googled the F@# out of it and think I found a solution. Blumat sensors. Ordered one for each soil plant, will stop the drip when they are watered and thus prevent overwatering.
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Grow Questions
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 3 years ago
When leaf tips burn just a bit, is that a "sweet spot" meaning I am pushing the plants to the max, or is that already worth treating as full on lock out and needing a formal flush and straight ph'ed water till it resolves?
Solved
Leaves. Tips - Burnt
like
GMSgrows
GMSgrowsanswered grow question 3 years ago
Yo friend where you get your info? Ph for hydro veg cycle is 5.8 ph max ec should be around 1.8 ec and if you use the proper nutes you dont need to add any cal/mg. When in flower ph goes to 6.2 to 6.3 ph and your max ec is about the same as when in veg. 1.8 to 1.9 max. Hitting up in the 1000 ppm mark you'll need as good an environment indoors as you get outdoors. With hydroponics when done properly will deliver bigger buds than what I grow on a regular basis. Cheers
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 3 years ago
If my plants are surviving low light and nightly freezes with a simple hoop cover, is it worth putting lights over them and building a 2 layer greenhouse for insulation? Looks like they have a week left, maybe 2, but I do have the materials on hand. worth it?
Solved
Setup. Outdoor
like
DoDrugs420
DoDrugs420answered grow question 3 years ago
If there is a lockdown there, then you can spend some time doing it, i don't see much of a need for it tho, unless you add some heaters too and using during winter with some suplemental light, wouldn't need much more light since you could also use a portion of solar even in winter.
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 3 years ago
Has anyone tried continuous drip with hyper oxygenated water in quality soil on recirculation? Would you ever try that? Would the oxygenated water compensate for the problem of overwatering as in DWC, but in soil? Why would you or would you not try this?
Solved
Feeding. Automatic systems
like
Stonerd
Stonerdanswered grow question 3 years ago
Continuous drip with recirculation would do great if you can cover these parameters: grow medium aeration, drainage, and filtration (if reusing the irrigation water). As I mentioned in my other answer to you as long as good drainage and aeration is implemented, then overwatering and root rot can be avoided completely (I explained everything there). oxidized irrigation solution might increase root growth and overall plant vigor but wont replace media aeration and drainage completely, it's like suffocating your plant and inviting *HARMFUL* fungi to your root zone and plant.
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 3 years ago
Context: Was on an ebb & flow in a 3 gallon smart pot in soil every 3 hrs with oxygenated water. Overwatering symptoms identified by a friend, so shut off all water for the last 3 days. Temps: 75, RH 65, soil: rogue peat based light quick draining mix.
Solved
Leaves. Curl down
like
Stonerd
Stonerdanswered grow question 3 years ago
First I would like to address the pesticide and fungicide, for organic pesticide (especially against aphids) I would base it on tomato leaf extract water since it has naturally strong resistance to pests (if you grow tomatoes in your garden you'd notice they're the only ones not getting eaten). For a good organic fungicide a combination of neem oil, dish soap, and baking soda would do great (plenty of recipes online that you can base it from). Now for the overwatering, Overwatering can be avoided completely by applying good drainage (from both substrate and pot) and your choice of a fabric pot (not sure if that's what you're using but seems like it from the few photos you have) is very good but the media mix you chose has poor drainage. The vermiculite is what holds nutrients, holds moisture, provides aeration and drainage especially when growing with soilless media (coco-coir), in your mix the vermiculite should have been at least 33% (1/3) of the media but what's done is done, for now I would suggest just spacing out your irrigation more and as indication water when the top 5cm of the media is completely dry just to give your roots the oxygen and room they need to grow (this also prevents root rot in the future). Lastly the nutrients, unfortunately I don't know much about organic fertilizing but I am able to recognize late stage potassium (K) deficiency on the second photo (green veins, yellow foliage, and chlorosis at the tips) which is probably caused by the low pH in your irrigation solution, since you are growing in soilless media I would suggest trying to raise the pH to around 5.5-6 with a slow increase with 6.5 as the limit. the first picture with the dark green foliage, light yellowing, and tip chlorosis is probably the same problem in an earlier stage plus a little Nitrogen (N) toxicity (from the three macro-nutrients nitrogen deals best with acidity) so you might want to consider lowering the nitrogen fertilization by half and slowly working your way back up. To conclude this long ass answer (which I hope helps) this is my subjective opinion to what your grow is experiencing and it is based on my experience. Overall your grow looks good and would probably do amazing if you manage to mend whatever your plants are going through, remember cannabis is a very resilient plant that can withstand a lot of stress!! **And my personal advice is always go easy with nutrients, deficiencies are easier to spot since they appear faster and cause less stress to the plant than toxicities!! Hope your grow goes well and the harvest bountiful :)
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 3 years ago
Was water logged, transplanted into 95% dry soil to correct, soil with nutes in it. I see: Heat stress. LED light 2.2 ' away, raised the light. ( curling up ) Late stage P deficiency... green veins. Can't flush, was just waterlogged, what to do? Water a bit with RO?
Solved
Leaves. Curl up
Leaves. Veins - stay green
like
Stonerd
Stonerdanswered grow question 3 years ago
The curling foliage is probably due to radiation burns! from looking at your diary it seems like you're on a 24hr light schedule which may be tempting to use thinking it will increase yields it may actually cause what your plants are suffering from right now which is unnecessary and harmful stress! I'd suggest sticking with the 18/6 light schedule (some growers believe you can even push it to 20/4) since your plants need that dark time to actually burn that energy they produced during the day performing photosynthesis! As for the nutrient issues you're having I already addressed it in another answer to you. Hope this helps! Good luck and happy growing :)
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DreamOn
DreamOnweek 4
Good luck with the grow mate! 🌱😎
Neo_007
Neo_007
@DreamOn, Thank you!!
Stonerd
Stonerdweek 5
Nice grow and even better questions and hypothesis!! would love to chat with ya and maybe shed some light on few of them! Happy growing! :)
Stonerd
Stonerd
@Neo_007, well I just got on signal, and don't really understand it completely so private message me here how to connect over there if you want :) and yeah there are a lot of contradicting info out there so it's quite hard to understand at first, as you experience with the plant you'll get the hang of it! only important thing is to have patience with your grows
Neo_007
Neo_007
@Stonerd, that sounds epic mate. The learning curve here is kicking my ass. Hows that work in your world? Here? Hit you up on Signal App?
Ferenc
Ferencweek 6
Happy Growing! Nice detailed! @Neo_007
Neo_007
Neo_007
@Ferenc, Thank you so much! Inspired by this app I have been keeping a journal, and had I not, I would definitely not have noticed my rooted clones had hit 1' within 5 days!! Thats FAST right? F@#$. I took this moment in the journal log to go ahead and review my journals and consolidate my thinking and it feels like its helping the info gel and the questions arise. I really appreciate your feedback!