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4 years ago
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Indoor
Room Type
HST
weeks 4-5
LST
weeks 4-6
ScrOG
weeks 4-6
Topping
weeks 4-6
Defoliation
weeks 4-6
Vermiculite
Grow medium
Coco Coir
Grow medium
26.4979 l
Pot Size
Grow Conditions
Week 5
Vegetation
60.96
cm
inch
Height
24 hrs
Light Schedule
13+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
epsom salts
1.302 ml/l
southern ag garden friendly biological fungicide for reservoirs / root rot
0.528 ml/l
liquid seaweed by blue planet nutrients for foliar / neem spray and replacement of expensive root formulas
2.642 ml/l
3+ nutrients after
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Grow Technique Usage
LST
Technique
HST
Technique
ScrOG
Technique
Topping
Technique
Defoliation
Technique
Commented by
Neo_007 Neo_007
4 years ago
Alrighty... so... I wanted to have the best of both worlds, hydro and soil. 40% of my girls were in cheap soil though... I filled my reservoirs, tried to oxygenate them well ( half assed it I have learned ), and watered every 3 hrs with oxygentated nutes ebb and flow, into 3 gallon smart pots. Had I dont this right, would it have worked? I learned the hard way that overwatering kills... my hope was that if I was to continuously refresh the water ( as in hydro ) I would have a constant supply of oxygen and in the pots with spendy airy peat based soil it did seem to work, but in the pots with the cheap stuff ( from when I was broke and it was time to transplant ). - it didnt. they got super unhappy looking like nute deficiencies a plenty... tried to address by searching the nute deficiencies and fixing... first epsom salts amending.. When transplanting I smelled the problem under the pots... root rot. Did I know to add a fungicide when doing a recirc with soil? Nope. Do I know now? Yep. But heres the thing: would that even have fixed it? Can you do recirc with soil? Is that stupid? I hunger for the ease of automated watering, and I am hunting for a solution that does not risk overwatering the plants.... I cannot bet on 'hyper oxygenated water constantly flowing through and replacing the old' at the moment unless someone steps up and says ' yea, that would work, I do that ' The solution I have found - best so far, is this one https://www.happyhydro.com/collections/blumat-systems/products/blumat-medium-box-kit-automatic-irrigation-for-up-to-12-plants Has anyone tried that product? Sensors in each pot for under $10/plant, adjust to make it perfect and it never over waters. Partly Im asking because I am being guided by a new mentor who suggests aiming for living soil, and have been doing my research, found this: https://overgrow.com/t/whats-your-favorite-living-soil-recipes/17984/2 This pursuit started when I was spraying everything under the sun ( only organic ) to try to kill aphids, and each spray would subsequenty burn the plants. Some solid googling, and I am now using neem exclusively, and mixing a plant food into it. The article pointed me to Neem, Silica, and Maybe aloe.. And while Aloe is on order, I mixed up the following ( feedback? ) Neem, Silica, Kelp, Humic Acids, Fulvic Acids I followed a guide and made 5 gallons of the stuff so I dont have to keep mixing it up. Just sprayed, and sprayed, idea being that I am actually feeding the plants while knocking down the aphids. Planning to try a pyrethrium bomb as well. Been fighting these guys since the mom plant came ( she came w em ). Present day, my system uses a peat based nute infused light quick drain rogue soil baseline On ebb tables with drip Most likely drain to waste, but decided overwatering was killing em / slowing them with experiement #1 ( above ), so the waters off, transplanted into dry soil to dry them sooner, they are still 3 days after transplant, measuring 10/10 on the moisture scale What did em in? Trying to narrow factors here, these are the possibilities I see - Overwatering - sure, but if it had better oxygenation would that had eliminated the problem? - Trying to recirc in a res with soil - ummm... dont know anyone doing that. - Trying to recirc without funcicide in the rest... def could be ( referring to bacterial fungicide, all natural ) - Spraying with everything under the sun thats organic ( could be ) Anyhow... Im coming out the other side I also found some mold growing on the wood in the roof of my garage... meh... I had been following VPD studies, which indicate that with Co2, plant ideal growth temps hit 80 - 85, and the corresponding ideal humidity based on VPD charts is thus 80% RH, so I tried it, without covering the wood in the garage.. and the beginnings of mold... experiment over. Inbirk controlling dehum now, running at all times - check Humidity down to 60% RH with 1 dehum, setting set to 50% RH, thus getting a 2nd dehum Temps at 75 with co2 at 1500 Plants gotten no water for 3 days, letting em dry till 45% moisture, then will use auto drips moisture sensing ( 1st link ) to boost to 55 and keep em in that range Recirc with soil most likely over, will swap to drain to waste, and will hook up a sump in the drain buckets/ reservoirs / tubs to channel that waste to the back yard where I will put some veggies in Restructured away from grow tents, ditched em, took one out, spread out the tables, got rid of the scrog net, so I FINALLY have access to the girls from all around the tables instead of having to 'wing it' in solid canopy with no access to certain ones... Planning to feed with my custom feed/neem blend likely daily or 2x a day till I see ZERO aphids, with a bomb in there somewhere to really trip that cord and hopefully make it through bloom w no bugs 20% of the growth tips look unhealthy from the root rot issues, so clearing the reservoirs, resetting them, adding fungicide to the new ones, just a smidge, and switching to drain to waste... Damn... last 4 weeks have been nutty... so many lessons, so fast... had I never pruned, nor scrogged, nor defoliated these girls would be at 6' already, and Im thinking that would have been smarter, since I am still not dialed in enough to confidently flip to bloom. Also going to take immediate steps towards creating living soil, adding vermicompost, a couple inches, on top.. might add clover cover crops, and doing a super deep, super strong innoculation with recharge Replacing my ghetto fans with oscillating fans And looking into a dosatron, to be able to ditch the reservoirs altogether... Phew... geez... this was a hard zero to google it to try to get pro couple weeks for this couple of plants Im trying to keep alive and kickin. Damn.
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Grow Questions
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 4 years ago
When leaf tips burn just a bit, is that a "sweet spot" meaning I am pushing the plants to the max, or is that already worth treating as full on lock out and needing a formal flush and straight ph'ed water till it resolves?
Solved
Leaves. Tips - Burnt
like
GMSgrows
GMSgrowsanswered grow question 4 years ago
Yo friend where you get your info? Ph for hydro veg cycle is 5.8 ph max ec should be around 1.8 ec and if you use the proper nutes you dont need to add any cal/mg. When in flower ph goes to 6.2 to 6.3 ph and your max ec is about the same as when in veg. 1.8 to 1.9 max. Hitting up in the 1000 ppm mark you'll need as good an environment indoors as you get outdoors. With hydroponics when done properly will deliver bigger buds than what I grow on a regular basis. Cheers
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 4 years ago
If my plants are surviving low light and nightly freezes with a simple hoop cover, is it worth putting lights over them and building a 2 layer greenhouse for insulation? Looks like they have a week left, maybe 2, but I do have the materials on hand. worth it?
Solved
Setup. Outdoor
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DoDrugs420
DoDrugs420answered grow question 4 years ago
If there is a lockdown there, then you can spend some time doing it, i don't see much of a need for it tho, unless you add some heaters too and using during winter with some suplemental light, wouldn't need much more light since you could also use a portion of solar even in winter.
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 4 years ago
Has anyone tried continuous drip with hyper oxygenated water in quality soil on recirculation? Would you ever try that? Would the oxygenated water compensate for the problem of overwatering as in DWC, but in soil? Why would you or would you not try this?
Solved
Feeding. Automatic systems
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Stonerd
Stonerdanswered grow question 4 years ago
Continuous drip with recirculation would do great if you can cover these parameters: grow medium aeration, drainage, and filtration (if reusing the irrigation water). As I mentioned in my other answer to you as long as good drainage and aeration is implemented, then overwatering and root rot can be avoided completely (I explained everything there). oxidized irrigation solution might increase root growth and overall plant vigor but wont replace media aeration and drainage completely, it's like suffocating your plant and inviting *HARMFUL* fungi to your root zone and plant.
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 4 years ago
Context: Was on an ebb & flow in a 3 gallon smart pot in soil every 3 hrs with oxygenated water. Overwatering symptoms identified by a friend, so shut off all water for the last 3 days. Temps: 75, RH 65, soil: rogue peat based light quick draining mix.
Solved
Leaves. Curl down
like
Stonerd
Stonerdanswered grow question 4 years ago
First I would like to address the pesticide and fungicide, for organic pesticide (especially against aphids) I would base it on tomato leaf extract water since it has naturally strong resistance to pests (if you grow tomatoes in your garden you'd notice they're the only ones not getting eaten). For a good organic fungicide a combination of neem oil, dish soap, and baking soda would do great (plenty of recipes online that you can base it from). Now for the overwatering, Overwatering can be avoided completely by applying good drainage (from both substrate and pot) and your choice of a fabric pot (not sure if that's what you're using but seems like it from the few photos you have) is very good but the media mix you chose has poor drainage. The vermiculite is what holds nutrients, holds moisture, provides aeration and drainage especially when growing with soilless media (coco-coir), in your mix the vermiculite should have been at least 33% (1/3) of the media but what's done is done, for now I would suggest just spacing out your irrigation more and as indication water when the top 5cm of the media is completely dry just to give your roots the oxygen and room they need to grow (this also prevents root rot in the future). Lastly the nutrients, unfortunately I don't know much about organic fertilizing but I am able to recognize late stage potassium (K) deficiency on the second photo (green veins, yellow foliage, and chlorosis at the tips) which is probably caused by the low pH in your irrigation solution, since you are growing in soilless media I would suggest trying to raise the pH to around 5.5-6 with a slow increase with 6.5 as the limit. the first picture with the dark green foliage, light yellowing, and tip chlorosis is probably the same problem in an earlier stage plus a little Nitrogen (N) toxicity (from the three macro-nutrients nitrogen deals best with acidity) so you might want to consider lowering the nitrogen fertilization by half and slowly working your way back up. To conclude this long ass answer (which I hope helps) this is my subjective opinion to what your grow is experiencing and it is based on my experience. Overall your grow looks good and would probably do amazing if you manage to mend whatever your plants are going through, remember cannabis is a very resilient plant that can withstand a lot of stress!! **And my personal advice is always go easy with nutrients, deficiencies are easier to spot since they appear faster and cause less stress to the plant than toxicities!! Hope your grow goes well and the harvest bountiful :)
Neo_007
Neo_007started grow question 4 years ago
Was water logged, transplanted into 95% dry soil to correct, soil with nutes in it. I see: Heat stress. LED light 2.2 ' away, raised the light. ( curling up ) Late stage P deficiency... green veins. Can't flush, was just waterlogged, what to do? Water a bit with RO?
Solved
Leaves. Curl up
Leaves. Veins - stay green
like
Stonerd
Stonerdanswered grow question 4 years ago
The curling foliage is probably due to radiation burns! from looking at your diary it seems like you're on a 24hr light schedule which may be tempting to use thinking it will increase yields it may actually cause what your plants are suffering from right now which is unnecessary and harmful stress! I'd suggest sticking with the 18/6 light schedule (some growers believe you can even push it to 20/4) since your plants need that dark time to actually burn that energy they produced during the day performing photosynthesis! As for the nutrient issues you're having I already addressed it in another answer to you. Hope this helps! Good luck and happy growing :)
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DreamOn
DreamOnweek 4
Good luck with the grow mate! 🌱😎
Neo_007
Neo_007
@DreamOn, Thank you!!
Stonerd
Stonerdweek 5
Nice grow and even better questions and hypothesis!! would love to chat with ya and maybe shed some light on few of them! Happy growing! :)
Stonerd
Stonerd
@Neo_007, well I just got on signal, and don't really understand it completely so private message me here how to connect over there if you want :) and yeah there are a lot of contradicting info out there so it's quite hard to understand at first, as you experience with the plant you'll get the hang of it! only important thing is to have patience with your grows
Neo_007
Neo_007
@Stonerd, that sounds epic mate. The learning curve here is kicking my ass. Hows that work in your world? Here? Hit you up on Signal App?
Ferenc
Ferencweek 6
Happy Growing! Nice detailed! @Neo_007
Neo_007
Neo_007
@Ferenc, Thank you so much! Inspired by this app I have been keeping a journal, and had I not, I would definitely not have noticed my rooted clones had hit 1' within 5 days!! Thats FAST right? F@#$. I took this moment in the journal log to go ahead and review my journals and consolidate my thinking and it feels like its helping the info gel and the questions arise. I really appreciate your feedback!