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Week 1
Northern Storm auto on the left.
CLIMATE:
25'C/ 27'C ambient air ~ 65-70% RH
LIGHT:
300w COB (100w actual draw) ~ PPFD: 300mmol/s/m2
CROP CONTROL:
Infection control practices i.e
-PPE, Alcohol Hand wash
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance organic pesticide on hand if needs be too. Hopefully to avoid ever needing chemical pesticides.
LIGHT:
New Light: Upgrade to Niello 600w
600w COB (150w actual draw) ~ PPFD: 500mmol/s/m2
Spectrums: 2x Cree Full spectrum COBs ~ Supplemented with multiple Blue and Red LEDs
CROP CONTROL:
Infection control practices i.e
-PPE, Alcohol Hand wash
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance organic pesticide on hand if needs be too. Hopefully to avoid ever needing chemical pesticides.
New light: Upgrade to Phlizon 1000w (250w actual draw)
Didn't fill in the light distances as I don't really pay attention to it. I aim to get between 800-1200mmol/s/m2 at most bud sites.
Crop control: Infection control practices i.e
-PPE,
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance on hand if needs be too.
First time growing. I decided to go all in and willing to make a few mistakes to learn. So far got to flowering without major issues, hopefully I won't mess it up before harvest!
Didn't fill in the light distances as I don't really pay attention to it. I aim to get between 800-1200mmol/s/m2 at most bud sites.
Crop control: Infection control practices i.e
-PPE,
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance on hand if needs be too.
First time growing. I decided to go all in and willing to make a few mistakes to learn. So far got to flowering without major issues, hopefully I won't mess it up before harvest!
Didn't fill in the light distances as I don't really pay attention to it. I aim to get between 800-1200mmol/s/m2 at most bud sites.
Crop control: Infection control practices i.e
-PPE,
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance on hand if needs be too.
I had an Exhale bags in the tent. They showed big growth fast, which was quite surprising.
1x1m tent, fully filled by the 2 plants. Amazed its going so well for my first grow, a few hick ups but nothing major. The hardy autoflower genetics are helping a lot as well I'm assuming.
Very selective defoliation.
I would greatly appreciate it if anyone could give me tips on how to improve further??
Light Update:
Dropped Light intensity to reduce light stress with higher temperatures.
I am now getting between 700-1000mmol/s/m2 at most bud sites.
Crop control: Infection control practices i.e
-PPE,
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance on hand if needs be too.
(Slight Nute burn this week so flushed with PH 6 water and dropped resevoir PPM from 1000 to 800)
About 2-3C difference between ambient air temperature and leaf surface temperature (24.5-25C) .
No defoliation, just pushing larger fan leaves down. Tying down branches to keep canopy flat.
Light: Red/Blue/2x full spectrum CREE COBs (+IR and UV supplementation)
At plant canopy = Avg. PPFD 770umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 25,000-35,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 50-55
Crop control: Infection control practices i.e
-PPE, Alcohol Hand wash
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance on hand if needs be too. Hopefully to avoid ever needing chemical pesticides.
MAIN UPDATES:
Nute burn from last week visible in some photos, it's not too bad and plants are doing pretty well.
Very little training this week, just pushing the odd leaf out of the way.
CLIMATE:
Pushed temps and humidity up as the gap between the Leaf Surface Temp (LST) and ambient air temp was too narrow.
Now running:
31'C/ 32'C ambient air ~ 60% RH ~ 29'C/ 30'C LST (plants are responding well due to high Co2 levels) ~ Leaf to air temp variance of 1-2'C
LIGHT:
Similar, dropped the schedule down to 17 hours to bring the Daily Light Integral down slightly (I think last week the leaves on another plant in the room (Purple Hulk) suffered light stress, see pics on last weeks grower question)
Red/Blue/2x full spectrum CREE COBs (+IR and UV supplementation)
At plant canopy = Avg. PPFD 770umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 25,000-35,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 50-55
CROP CONTROL: (Same as usual)
Infection control practices i.e
-PPE, Alcohol Hand wash
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Update: Now using higher powered (UVC) 253nm & 187nm bulb, to disinfect the gray room outside of the tent once a week for 30 mins. The Ozone (o3) gas that is produced is then directed into the tent to further control any unwanted pathogens. The gas is then exhausted outside into the open air.
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance on hand if needs be too. Hopefully to avoid ever needing chemical pesticides.
This book I have says nitrogen deficiency shows as yellowing tips of leaves starting with lower/older leaves. I’m on my first grow too, so I’ll defer to others and am interested to hear what it is.
I pushed the temps up and got the VDP on point w/co2.
Now since the plant is drawing a lot more water up through the roots, I've noticed very slight nute burn on the newest leaf growths.
Do you have to drop PPM's as temps rise? I thought it was the other way around?
Its likely a potassium deficiency. During flowering the plant requires more phosphorus and potassium. Plus always check ph levels coming off plant in run off. Good luck and happy growing. If edges burn and curl up and in, is when it is nutrition burn. Which in most cases is caused by ph problems. good luck and happy growing 🌲🌲🌲👊
MAIN UPDATES:
Nutrient Deficiency last week, thank you to "Roberts" and "Accystoner" for helping to identify the issues.
Light intensity increased as plant didn't seem stressed by other factors any more, so felt the plant could handle it. I'm trying to constantly tow the line between stress and damage to get the plant to produce optimally.
Lux raised from 25,000 - 35,000 range to a 40,000 - 50,000 range. With the light spectrums being used, the PAR works out at around 1000umols/s/m2. DLI around 62
CLIMATE:
31'C/ 32'C ambient air ~ 55-60% RH ~ 29'C/ 30'C LST (plants are responding well due to high Co2 levels) ~ Leaf to air temp variance of 1-2'C
LIGHT:
Red/Blue/2x full spectrum CREE COBs (+IR and UV supplementation)
At plant canopy = PPFD 1000umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 40,000-50,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 55-65
CROP CONTROL: (Same as usual)
Infection control practices i.e
-PPE, Alcohol Hand wash
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Update: Now using an additional higher powered (UVC) 253nm & 187nm bulb, to disinfect the gray room outside of the tent once a week for 30 mins. The Ozone (o3) gas that is produced is then directed into the tent to further control any unwanted pathogens. The gas is then exhausted outside into the open air.
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance organic pesticide on hand if needs be too. Hopefully to avoid ever needing chemical pesticides.
Update:
Plant was heat stressed last week so dialling back temps to 27C/28C
Additional infection control practices. Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC's) ranging from only 50ppb to 200ppb as you can see in my air quality data pics, so very unlikely to have any mold or mildew as they emit a lot of VOC's.
Co2 ranges from 900ppm to 1500ppm
CLIMATE:
27/28'C ambient air ~ 60% RH ~ 26/27'C LST ~ Leaf to air temp variance of between 1-2'C
Under Canopy temp: 26'C
LIGHT:
Red/Blue/2x full spectrum CREE COBs (+IR and UV supplementation)
At plant canopy = PPFD 1000umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 40,000-50,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 55-65
CROP CONTROL: (Same as usual)
Infection control practices i.e
-PPE, Alcohol Hand wash
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
Update: Now using an additional higher powered (UVC) 253nm & 187nm bulb, to disinfect the gray room outside of the tent once a week for 30 mins. The Ozone (o3) gas that is produced is then directed into the tent to further control any unwanted pathogens. The gas is then exhausted outside into the open air.
Ed Rosenthal -Zero Tolerance organic pesticide on hand if needs be too. Hopefully to avoid ever needing chemical pesticides.
UPDATE:
- Day/Night temperature differential is starting to bring out the purple colors.
- Trichomes are mostly cloudy, just waiting on some ambers to harvest.
- Did some defoliation to allow light at the lower growths in its last week
GENETICS:
-Free seeds from MSNL. Being used to test my system.
CLIMATE:
- Ambient Air Temp = 27/28'C ~ 26/27'C LST ~ Leaf to air temp variance of between 1-2'C
- Night Temp = 21/22'C ~ Day/Night temp differential 6-7'C
- Under Canopy Temp: 26'C (Day) ~ 21'C (Night)
- Relative Humidity = 55-65%RH (Avg. 60%RH)
- VPD = 1.30kPa (Avg.)
- Co2 ranges from 900ppm to 1500ppm (Avg. 1200ppm)
AIR PRESSURE:
- Ambient Air Pressure (outside tent) = 1015 mbars (101.5 Kilopascals)
- Actual Air Pressure (inside tent) = 980-1005 mbars (980-100.5 Kilopascals)
- Air Pressure Differential = ranging from -10 to -35 mbars (-1 to -3.5 Kilopascals)
LIGHT:
- 2x full spectrum CREE COBs
- At plant canopy = PPFD 900-1000umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 40,000-50,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 55-65
NUTRIENTS:
- Mostly Advanced Nutrients (For base nutrients and most additives, as only company I could find scientific data on)
- Canna (For Calmag Agent and Cannazym)
- Plant Success (Great White Mycorrhizae)
ADDITIONAL GROW TECHNIQUES:
- Mostly getting out of the plants way and letting nature take its course.
- Some LST. (i.e. tying down branches and tucking large leaves away)
- No HST.
INFECTION PREVENTION & CONTROL:
Infection control practices i.e
-PPE, Alcohol Hand wash
-Gray room outside tent,
-Carbon filter
-HEPA filter
-Plasma Ionizer
-Inline UV-C germicidal bulb
- Also using an additional higher powered COOSPIDER (UVC) 253nm & 187nm bulb, to disinfect the gray room outside of the tent once a week for 30 mins.
- Ozone (o3) gas that is produced using the COOSPIDER, is then directed into the tent to further control any unwanted pathogens.
- Ed Rosenthal (Zero Tolerance organic pesticide), sprayed once a week as preventative measure. On hand for heavier use (Once every 3 days before lights out for 15 days) in the case of an outbreak
(No outbreaks yet, due to aforementioned preventative measures)
My desired amount of trichomes are present so time to chop.
1/3 - drying at 21'C/ 55%RH
2/3 - Freezing for hash
The 1/3 that I dried weighed 34g. Still drying but took a sample. It hits fast, with a heady high you can feel in the face. Its only drying 5 days, it has another 5 or so left to be fully ready so the high may change.
@guerillano_4 hi mate I have looked at previous comments to ur issue and from my research with my own issues the same, I moved my light closer and put onto 100% power and the leafs curling the way they are is a sign of heat stress and if left and not addressed can hinder photosynthesis I turned the power on my light down to 80% and roughly 20inches away i measured with a lux meter and converted to par, the cheaper way as don't have a meter can't remember what my results where but I can say that the issue was resolved my leafs have not got any worse but the slight damage is still visible.. hopefully this helps. And hey nice plants and a nice grow, happy flowing 👌🔥🔥🔥💯💯
@Syrunz, yeah you were right brother. I think my co2 levels were dropping to 8-900ppm, the plants couldn't handle the 30+ Celsius heat and light intensity without the extra co2
es schaut so aus als hättest du PH probleme auf erde benutze immer 6,5 PH miss dein drain sollte der über 7 und unter 5 sein musst du mit korrektem wasser flushen
@Indica_Jones, Ahh yes I see what you mean, the Northern lights variety is growing very well, the Purple Hulk was definitely having some issues.
I think my PH was down around 5.5 last week, I had noticed the leaf margins but not the red stems. So you are probably right.
I also use Autopots and the line on the Purple Hulk got kinked. The medium was drying out by the time I noticed.
It was obviously one of those issues, or both possibly. The new growths seem fine at 6.1, should I leave it or push it up to 6.5?
@GuerrillaNo_4, aaah tut mir leid hab mich grade über deine Sorten Schlau gemacht die Sorte mit den drei Blättern ist Wohl die Nothern Light.... die schaut tatsächlich so aus alles gut guter Grow :) und tschuldigung man lernt eben nie aus
@GuerrillaNo_4, I honeslty have no idea!!!! i'm dealing with space issues myself... i keep expanding lol I wouldnt worry about it being detrimental to the plants. Just watch how this grow goes and adjust for the next one! either way its gonna be AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@MrHightimes, Who'd have known, last thing I expected was space issues with just 2 autoflowers. Do you reckon it will be much of a problem? Or will it just limit my yield a bit?
Listen! this is going fantastic!
WAYYY Better than my first grow!!!
I think I've been lucky this whole time b/c I've been using
really nice lights!!!!!
I really like Mars Hydro and HLG.... yes they are $600 lights or more, but u reap the profits and the cost is offset!
I think you also would benefit from some high end LEDs
But things are looking GREAT in there!!!!
@MrHightimes, thanks buddy. I actually do really appreciate it. I put a lot of work in and its just nice when someone notices. You know what I mean?
You should see me rough work pad, like a mad scientists journal 🤣
You're right about the lights too I think. Just upgraded my lights and genetics for the next run now that I have my environmentals stable.
Mephisto/MarsHydro SP3000 this run my friend 😉
its been agonizing for me to learn (see my first diary) but go ahead and defoliate the hell outta those bitches!!!!!
easier said than done I know, but take of a whole pile from each plant!
I'm still not as aggressive as I probably will become, but it helps more than it hurts!
@MrHightimes, ahh I think I'll limit defoliation as much as possible, I just push some down and out of the way. I have a high enough DLI, I imagine they need the leaves to photosynthesize the light.
@MrHightimes, ohh shit man, sorry. Don't know how I missed this comment, I must have only seen your other one.
Thanks man, I wouldn't call myself a scientist or nothing, but I did do a science based masters at one stage. That kinda helped a little bit lol.
@lateKdF, Ahh I see what you mean, and I agree. Pruning the under grow and removing damaged leaves, is fair enough.
But defoliating active fan leaves in upper canopy doesn't make sense to me, especially in an autoflower with a limited lifecycle. I could be wrong, I am only a beginner.
But am I wrong in assuming that the buds require the fan leaves to photosynthesize the light efficiently, so they can gain that energy to grow.
I'm open to trying it out though, but I'd need evidence that it would increase yield or quality before I would go cutting away the plants healthy means of production. I haven't seen any yet.
@GuerrillaNo_4, Indulge me: plants have a finite amount of energy. Early stage focuses on growth that will poise the plant for it's ultimate goal; procreation.
As the plant shifts into the flower stage, it's primary goal is to stretch and get the female vagina flower parts in prime position to get impregnated with male pollen.
You'll notice allot of grows with bare naked lower parts of the plant, stripped by the gardener to focus as much of the plants energy as possible into flower production.
At this point, too many leaves can become a liability. It's about flower development, NOT growth, per se.
Additionally, my friend, you want as much open space within the canopy interior to maximize gas exchange, and minimize chances for mold and pests.
GuerrillaNo_4
