Hydro nutrients

Thanks alot guy. I'm planning to feed the following nuts together , plz tell me if there is anything i should add or shouldnt add with/without other nuts. Maxi series Myco+ Armor-si Calmag Hydro guard UC roots Diamond nectar Seaweed And in flowering Maxi series Myco+ Uc roots Armour si Diamong nectar Flower fuel Big budd Flora nectar

What NobodysBuds said- I second that. Look up Fozziebear22 grow question about nutes- I just wrote a rant as long as his there on nutes too. Basically stick to the basics- pros use less not more bottles, they dont have time to mix 27 diff things up. Black market cash croppers who grow for money dont like taking the money they made illegally and spending it on useless nutes that cost way more than the rest. They use the CHEAPEST shit that actually works. And the most simple to use. If you have 2-4 plants you can baby them and pay more attention to each one. When you got 12 plants in a few diff rooms, with a few diff Auto watering set ups running, U want simple, simple simple. Thats how the "PROS" grow. Find a 2 or 3 part grow and bloom nute line and use that. Get one or two "boosters: and some cal mag. Thats it. Oh, Humic and fluvic acids are also amazing. Read my post in that other grow question if you want specific nute lines and names ok.

less is more :P hydro nutes come chelated. you want to play mad scientist, start calculating ppm of each molecules and keep track of it over tie as you adjust to what you observe with plant in your environment. You'll find they like a fairly consistent range of N/P/K and secondary molecules relative to your pH. adding some of that stuff is redundant. The seaweed provides N? it's going to make what was once a calculated 'known' and make it a 'maybe'. defeats the purpose of using soilless/hydro nutes. silicon, beneficials and other things not categorized as primary/secondary/trace elements, ... whatever floats your boat. I'm sure there are symbiotic relationships with roots and various vitamins or hormone-like molecules could also benefit the plant... maybe.. if there's real research backing it up, then i am more inclined to believe the hype. flushing agents are retarded.. stop wasting your money on them. You should only flush if there's a major clusterfuck going on in your substrate, which is easily avoided with soilless metod, especially if you did the math above like i suggest. ppm calculator -- https://manicbotanix.com/calculators/ppm-in-solution-calc.php if oyu don't have to worry about specific gravity, check out link to a spreadsheet (sort comments by newest first) that will also tabulate everything for you in a simple table automatically as you type in the information from your guaranteed analysis labels. it may or may not work with specific gravity. the website is a better option for some contexts and you will have to write it down and add it up. around a 1.5 EC is always a good starting point. Observe and react to plants. If you want ballpark ideas of npk... N 120-140 P 45-60 K 180-210 Some of this stuff will depend on your tap water and more so with Ca/Mg i believe. If you look at any of my diaries you can see a table of my mixed ppm in use. Autos are fine near the lower end to start... for photos you may find them asking for a bit more. Ca 100-120 Mg 80-90 S 110-120 less certain on this stuff. luckily the instructions for "Jack's" is functional vs. marketing. So many companies instruct WAY too high of a dose. This ain't fois gras. the plant has a metabolic rate.. we are merely trying to match it as best we can. overfeeding will only lead to problems down the line. Get a nice lush, solid green and maintain it as deep into any lengthy bloom period you meet with confidence. As far as teh other stuff... i'd form a baseline first, then add them one by one... see what they actually do for you, and whether they are worth the effort and cost. I don't say that with any bias... i don't care what works or what doesnt on a personal level... i do hope you find success, though.