Additives unnecessary?

No you could use just the flora micro and flora bloom. Check out my grows, i use maxi bloom + flora micro and do just fine.

K.I.S.S Keep IT SIMPLE STUPID You want to find a line a food that takes away the most opportunity to F something up, with that many chemicals and not knowing how to mix them in which order and each likely have a optimal temperature to use them at and so on and so on, why not find a very simple tried and true line of nutrients that have 2 major parts and a couple extras that all work together...Duel Fuel 2 part from Green planet has been kicking my buddy off in autopots for a couple years now and he's pushing major weight, 3 dry pounds off 4 plants, on my kids life I tries it but Coco coir isn't something I'm familiar with and I didn't buffer the and ph the coco coir properly and I had issues but I'm running it next run...It can be used in hydro, DWC, aeroponic or flood to drain and it has all the feed charts for each system you can download...my suggestion get a KISS keep it simple mitigate the chances of user error by diminishing the variables...Good luck just my 2 cents

I don't do hydroponics but all I use is 20-10-20 and have done so for over 2 years .I follow bruce bugbee very closely . Produce 50- 60 grams per square foot of grow space using this

** the only thing they can't easily mix all in one is Calcium.. This particular molecule can easily form a precipitate with S at high concentrations, if i recall correctly (unsoluble gypsum forms - insoluble means it is solid and never going back into solution, and never being used by the plant.. it must be something different than "garden gypsum" becaues that stuff is soluble, so i'm missing some finer detail to exlain it properly). This is why you often see it needing supplementation to any base fertilizer. Also why they usually tell you to make sure the other components are fully dissolved befoe adding the product with a lot of calcium. When nutes are dissolved at normal feeding concentrations, it is of no worry, but when mixing it can be an issue. So at minimum you'll probably want 2-part system if you can find it, but 2-4 is good too. You may need to tweak it a bit beyond what comes in instructions.

a lot of the marijauna-specific brands do things in a way to maximize pofit margin -- like a lot of water weight or splitting up things that could easily go into 1 product and not have to buy several, etc.... FF, AN are two major transgressors. Some others do more subtl shady shit, like put the microbes in the generic component that you could normally buy for half the price anywhere else, but since they put the trace elements in it, you have to buy "their" calcium nitrate, for example. Floraflex (dry nutes), GHE pro line (dry nutes), Athena dry pro line (forget names, all dry nutes tho), et al do this nonsense. It's predatory and demeaning to the customers, whether they know it or not.. taking advantage of their ignorance and jacking up the price while doing it. These companies show through their behaviour they dont give 2 shits about the customer and think of them like stupid cows to be milked when they do these things... and they get away with it too, because said people even when confronted with this info choose to live in denial about it, LOL. A 2 or 3 or even 4 parts is still a good thing though. A one-sized fits all formula doesn't quite exist.. Sometimes you need a little more N sometimes a bit less etc. So i like a system that has the N mostly isolated or at least i could change the concentration of my cal-nitrate without affecting other concentrations of important elements the plant needs. If it's all in one, then you lower everything or raise everything at once and that's not always what is needed. molasses would only be useful for a soil grow. Sugars feed microbes, not the plant. The microbes, hopefully, provide some benefit to the plant. In the case of soil, it's much more important since they will often have to 'process' soil nutes to make it plant available, where as hydro/soilless nutes are 100% available with no help. i'm soilless/hydo. I have a Jacks Part A 5-12-26 + trace elements. It is a good base to build off of. The other components are heavy in N, Ca, Mg and S, which will vary more often due to your tap water's contents, again allowing some easy manipulation to fit common differences. So i also have Epsom Salt (aka magnesium-sulfate 10%, 13% respectively or there abouts), Cal-nitrate (15% and 18% if i recall), and some TSP (0-46-0) to bump P up a bit, because this formula shorts it a bit for some reason. Much better whn P is up around 60ppm in my short trial with it. with just 4 products (3 before), i run 7-8 strains off the same rez with zero issues. It is possible. These companies with a 10-part package are just predators. I can't help with soil much, but i'm sure you can find a soil-based diary with a simple and effective nutrient setup. If soilless, hit me up.. i can write for days.

Yes. I ran GH flora trio for years in soilless and got it down to the trio, cal mag (if using RO or in “soilless” mediums ), silica (armorSi) is helpful in a lot of ways so I do recommend it but not necessary- it helps with drought resistance, mildew, and builds stronger plants. Koolbloom is a nice cheap PK boost in flower but not necessary especially when you can just crank up the florabloom 0-5-4. Those are the 6 I used, others were unnecessary IMO

Cause it is. Too many cooks in the kitchen. You are use all them. But at dif stages. But, no, you're right. It's overkill.. and more than likely will cause more issues. Less is more in the case of growing. Yes, its good to have enzymes and soil cond to improve. Or for resin/terps. But a good grow,boom, micro is enough. And good feeding patterns.