Kill it or finish it?

Ok, you convinced me pull out my dirty liquid fert (guanokalong Bloom + powder). I disconnect autopot and finish it with oldfashion way.

Why would you ever want to abandon two months worth of work unless the plants are dead?! I've switched nutes in mid-grow before... you realize the nutes are NOT doing a good job or you've got massive problems with them so you change them out and carry on! Get some liquid fertilizer and finish the grow! Good luck...

dimenticavo la colpa non è delle biotabs ma di nessuno secondo me devi trovare il fertilizzante piu adatto a te le biotabs in cocco come ha detto @Creepy_Steve i suoi componenti a rilascio lento sono difficili da utilizzare con il coco meglio un fertilizzante minerale ed un controllo di ec e ph anche in deflusso..

if biotabs aren't good for coco, they won't be good for any soilless substrate... unelss the coco was poorly washed and buffered. the biotabs might be a bad ratio too... i'd becareful of attributing 100% of cause to one thing without knowingn for certain. soilless grows are fairly easy to dial in with regular nutes.. the slow-release stuff is hit-or-miss and you live with the less-than-optimal ratios for the sake of ease. anyway,, fertigate each time with 10% (or more) runoff.. that runoff is waste water, so don't let it sit in it, always remove and toss down drain or it is safe to use on an outside garden on non-potted plants. ppm N/P/K 120-140 ppm N 60ish P 200ish K (this amounts to somehwere near 8-8-15 ratio of npk... the numbers aren't important here, just the ratio of NPK labels (weighted average if many used). Ca , Mg and S will vary based on water used. 100+/85+/100+ , respectively. All of that somewhere near 1.3-1.5 ... if you add what i wrote up it probably is a bit shy of that range... every gardens a bit different and it's always easier to add more than take away something that's too concentrated... better to ease up than try to dial back. The NPK values are probably solid for any ambient co2 context. Even NPK may be different in various gardens based on environmental factors that impact rate of photosynthesis. But, these are good loose guidelines to start around.. if the biotabs are way off this ratio, you can probably feel safe blaming them for the problems. If they are close, then that still leaves open shit-quality coco. if it came from a brick of coco, definitely the coco, lol.. never buy the unprocessed 5kg bricks or the ones cut down from that and repackaged. They say "washed" but it absolutely is not. ready to use, loose coco is more often properly washed and buffered. if not it'll leech ca/mg and add K and Na... until it reaches equilibrium with fertilizer.. this takes 30-60 days of normal irrigaiton before that occurs. This is why it needs to soak in a cal-nitrate solution or similar (buffered) before it can be used effectively. If not washed well it'll have a shit load of Na too. Na is really bad for plants. up to you how you proceed... you might be able to better dial it in with some hydro/soilless nutes -- do not worry if it says "for coco" that is a meaningless statement. Hydro/soilless nutes should be the same thing -- fully and 100% ready to be used by plant and 100% soluble. No chelating, no fixating.. just molecules ready for root uptake and used for growth.. it takes the middle man of microbes out of the equation. If the biotabs are nowhere near my suggstions, i'd try soemthing new. maybe, they just need slight supplementation or a slight change to how much is used? so many moving parts.. multiple ways to skin this cat.

sostituisci il substrato con del nuovo coco e continua..

Just finish with some liquid nutes