This is all relative to a soilless or hydro context.. if in soil, you have to consider what soil adds.. similar but different
in the end over time the plant needs the same mass of building blocks to match energy from photosynthesis.. laws of conservation of mass and thermodynamics guarantee this within common sense reasoning (lots of shifting variables here and not a 100% closed system).
npk near 8 8 15 ratio andn concnetration 1,3-1,5 EC is a good start for overall concentration. "1:1:2" is close, but will result in a bit too high K or too high n/p if you get K right etc) at 1,3 to 1,5 EC. that'll give you 120's ppm N , 55 ppm P and 190s K. Can prolly push P higher.. in bloom you'll want to drop N to 110ppm or so. In vege you may find plants want it as high as 140ppm, but most will be happy 120s-130s. you really can find a formula that works on 95% of strains. Autos are not much different than photoperiod plants.
with soil you may need more or less in your fertilizer.. and may need a diferent ratio.. this is because of what is in the soil to start. It's messier andmore unclear... more trial and error reuired by you.
local variables will impact just how much a plant can use. the ratios used will be similar for the most part relative to any life cycle stage. may need less N in flower. you can observe leaves for extra darkness (rising bottom to top) and reudce at that time... take note of when it occured -- maybe relate it to development of bud sites -- and pre-emptively reduce N around that time on the next grow.
observe, react, learn... take some notes on what you feed. if close to perfect the type of problems you encounter can take weeks to see them, but are occuring under the surface long before they are visible. fine-resultion reuires fine details.