Problem, long girls

"MORE LIGHT!!" -- That's what your plants are screaming when they stretch too much. It's so early it's not a problem. when you transplant them, bury them an extra inch or 2 to shorten them up. As long as you apply more light, they'l grow normally. Allow resulting distance between nodes dictate your light intensity. if your current light is underpowered, move it nice and close to the plants in the meantime. get a real grow light. spider farmer, mars, et al... can get really high quality lights for less than 1 dollar per watt of power. You pay for efficacy. for example the mars FC models are alll high efficacy lights. this reduces watts used and heat produced - heat is a waste byproduct of a light. photoperiods with high efficacy only need about 30-33 watts per sq ft. you only need 21-22watts per sq ft for autoflowers on an 18/6 cycle vs 12/12 for photoperiods. LEarning umol/s / ppfd / DLI is a much better way to size a light to your area. 35-40 DLI is the goal for ambient co2 levels. google "DLI table". umol/s will be on any reputable specification sheet. divide that value by area in meters squared. that is your PPFD, roughly. Take that number and reference it on a DLI table with hours of use. That is your DLI. Now, this will be maximum your light can do, it will be a tad less than his calculation in RL context, but it's close enough and still better than using watts per sq ft. watts mean different things with different efficacy. umol/s of PAR always means the same thing relative to energy applied to the plant per day.