Hi everyone 4 days ago I flush her until 500 ppm ...

I can't tell what diary this is linked to, but if your in a soil mixed with coco it can be tricky. If this is just coco watering with runoff is best get lots of perlite in the mix. Soil mixes can easily become compacted or dry out and then with flushing they don't all get wet. I would recommended if or when you need to do a flush add in some wetting agents lie yucca to help it penetrate the medium and kill some of that water surface tension. My guess is that the flush was good for most of the medium but some of it did not get as wet and this is the result, extra strong runoff from stuff that slowly got hydrated and is now releasing it all . ....[][][].... If you follow the trend of getting a good amount of runoff with your watering cycles you don't have to worry to much about the numbers coming out as its always getting refreshed. I agree with Polly, if the plants are looking good and no symptoms then its prob nothing and you can carry on. Polly has this all nailed down to a tight formula I trust a lot of what they say regarding plant nutrients and lights. ....[][][].... Good Luck!

Runoff readings and substrate slurries are more art than science. Is the plant fine? Maybe, the problem is related to perceptions and not necessarily anything the plant gives a shit about. ----- Coco is easy as with any soilless context. you fertigate every time with 10% runoff waste. The waste water should be removed. It can be used 'in the ground' but not for a potted plant... or down the drain. Just don't let the sit in their piss. --------- If you stick to these habits runoff may be different fromw what you feed but it's going to reach an equilibrium state due to the runoff. It'll be slightly higher than what you formulate, but it is consistent, which is the key. e.g. I may feed at 1.2-1.3EC but teh substrate is likely a consistent offset higher. It doesn't build up, which is the key. This is what the 10% runoff does for you. ----------- You repeat when the substrate starts to change colors on top and be religious about a minimum of 10% runoff. ---------- Now, if plant and pot-size are properly balanced, you can even do more advanced frequent fertigation methods, but i'd wait until closer to flower so that you build nice strong roots to take advantage of frequent fertigation. You need a minimum dryback of 25-33% (can equate this directly to the loss of weight from pot).------ So, what i suggest is you just start doing it the normal way, observe and react to what hte plant tells you at that point, and not focus on things that may or may not be relevant like the details and nuances of what results from this method. That stuff has already been worked out. It works this way for a reason. At this pointall you have left to do is a little trial and error adjusting your formula to work without all this flushing or extra ministrations. ------ 100% soluble, 100% plant-ready and pH-buffered is the type of nutrients you want. If yo have to fiddle with pH, it's a manufacturer's incompetence / laziness / lack of expertise knowledge that has existed for generations at this point.. i.e. too old to ignore unless being obstinate or clueless. --------- 1:1:2 N:P:K and 4:2:1 K:Ca:Mg w/ about 100ppm of S. Those ratios at an overall concentration of 1.2-1.5EC will be a great ballpark to start. Won't need more than a few percent tweaks in either direction for any of the required nutrient molecules. Easily diagnosed slow-moving problems until you simply don't see problems anymore in any grow. Take notes. The type of adjustments this will requie you to look back multiple weeks or even more than a month to further refine it. ------- Do that and running different 50 strains off of 1 reservoir isn't even the slightest cause for concern. Within a grow or two you'll never encounter any major symptom again, lol.. consistency.. helathy plants.. easy button. Your plants look fine, for the most part. Some skinny fingers on those leaves, but that too could be genetics too. Too much P or K can cause unusually skinny leaves relative to what the plant would typically grow, too. In this case i think it's more genetic than any potential overfeed. But your pant also never progresses beyond 4-5 finger leaves which indicates some sort of imbalance. compare your weighted average ratios of NPK et al and may experiement with my suggestion.. better to do so fromt the start of a grow to better assess it. The ratios are solid.. the concentration must match local variables that impact growth rate - co2, temps, rh et al.