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IceeTea31
IceeTea31started grow question 7 months ago
Strain: Cookies Gelato, Hulk Berry, Special Queen 1 all from RQS Light: SE3000 30cm 70% Soil: Regular Potting soil / no perlite they are very small today is day 14 since i‘ve put them into the soil. the leaves are kinda yellow. see more in my diar
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Leaves. Color - Yellow
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001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 7 months ago
This needs less light... 99.999% certain about it. Also, use more perlite/vermiculite/etc type amendmenat for greater aeration and drainage properties in your substrate. If it's a high capacity soil, you want 50% of volume to be perlite or similar. If it's a low water capacity substrate like coco coir, you only need 33% of volume to be perlite. I don't know what the woodchip equivalent is for that, but wood chips are not the best choice. vermiculite gives silicon, which is a nice bonus. the goal is a 50% air/water mixutre per volume of substrate. Pictures 3, 4, and 7 show nodes that are WAY too tight due to too much light. Probably why it's a bit pale too. The other ones look too tight, also, but with only a couple nodes it's tougher to be certain in these pictures from this angle. These need to be babied until they exhibit proper growth. Then, you'll need to ramp up the light, but nowhere near as high as before. Those spiderfarmer lights are very solid lights. 12" is fine if you have 1300ppm co2 and awesome vpd @30C temps and in flower (12 hour operation) at 100% power... then you could take advantage of all that light in a 3x3 tent. The PAR map for 12" is all 1100-1200 umol/s of PAR (PPF or PPE). https://www.spider-farmer.com/products/spider-farmer-upgraded-se3000-full-spectrum-led-grow-light/ Even 70% of that is too much for 18 hours. Even more so if you are running your lights longer than 18h. At this early stage, i'd play around with much lower power. Less power and closer to plants = less coverage and less penetration. This is no problem when the plants are small and you have no depth of foliage. This will save you watts. It's a bit more trial and error getting the right power. I'd drop to 40% and raise a few inches until they snap out of it. 50% at 12" might be just about right once they snap out of it, +/- 5%. The resulting distance between nodes is your guide... not too tight, not too stretchy. When they get bigger, raise to 18" and keep 70% for an 18/6 cycle. You may even need 20" at 70%, but 5-10% dimming at 18" distance won't hurt your light penetration, either. more power and slightly greater distance will give better light pentration -- a mathematical certainty. If you get an 18-24" canopy, this will help ensure solid buds all the way down - genetics has a large say in this too. Shorter plants may be fine with a 12" distance and corerlating power for 35-40DLI at top of canopy. no matter what it's probably going to add up to 35-40 DLI (daily light integral) whether it is 10 hours, 12hours or 18 hours etc... the number of photons per day is the key, and that's what DLI measures. Same number of photons over varying hours of operation = same yield / same growth rate under any common sense context.
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SkunkleDamo
SkunkleDamoanswered grow question 7 months ago
Like what has been said extensively. Your light is too close
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001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 7 months ago
forgot to say.. if photoperiods, when you switch to flower phase 12/12 cycle, 100% @ 18" is proportional to roughly 70% at 18" over 18 hours. (2/3rds is exact, but close enough) Read on daily light integral. download an easy reference table. you can guesstimate average PPF with that spider farmer PAR map. that average referenced with hours of operation on a DLI table will be a good enough estimate of DLI. If drastically different than 35-40, you'll need a larger adjustment... even if in that range, you need to observe and react to the plant. This sort of information only makes the starting point closer to what you want, therefore less trial and error to get there and faster. all gardens have varying factors that will impact how much light you can give.. it will be slightly different from other gardens. A good range to start in is as best you can do, then adjust based on plant growth.
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001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 7 months ago
This needs less light... 99.999% certain about it. Also, use more perlite/vermiculite/etc type amendmenat for greater aeration and drainage properties in your substrate. If it's a high capacity soil, you want 50% of volume to be perlite or similar. If it's a low water capacity substrate like coco coir, you only need 33% of volume to be perlite. I don't know what the woodchip equivalent is for that, but wood chips are not the best choice. vermiculite gives silicon, which is a nice bonus. the goal is a 50% air/water mixutre per volume of substrate. Pictures 3, 4, and 7 show nodes that are WAY too tight due to too much light. Probably why it's a bit pale too. The other ones look too tight, also, but with only a couple nodes it's tougher to be certain in these pictures from this angle. These need to be babied until they exhibit proper growth. Then, you'll need to ramp up the light, but nowhere near as high as before. Those spiderfarmer lights are very solid lights. 12" is fine if you have 1300ppm co2 and awesome vpd @30C temps and in flower (12 hour operation) at 100% power... then you could take advantage of all that light in a 3x3 tent. The PAR map for 12" is all 1100-1200 umol/s of PAR (PPF or PPE). https://www.spider-farmer.com/products/spider-farmer-upgraded-se3000-full-spectrum-led-grow-light/ Even 70% of that is too much for 18 hours. Even more so if you are running your lights longer than 18h. At this early stage, i'd play around with much lower power. Less power and closer to plants = less coverage and less penetration. This is no problem when the plants are small and you have no depth of foliage. This will save you watts. It's a bit more trial and error getting the right power. I'd drop to 40% and raise a few inches until they snap out of it. 50% at 12" might be just about right once they snap out of it, +/- 5%. The resulting distance between nodes is your guide... not too tight, not too stretchy. When they get bigger, raise to 18" and keep 70% for an 18/6 cycle. You may even need 20" at 70%, but 5-10% dimming at 18" distance won't hurt your light penetration, either. more power and slightly greater distance will give better light pentration -- a mathematical certainty. If you get an 18-24" canopy, this will help ensure solid buds all the way down - genetics has a large say in this too. Shorter plants may be fine with a 12" distance and corerlating power for 35-40DLI at top of canopy. no matter what it's probably going to add up to 35-40 DLI (daily light integral) whether it is 10 hours, 12hours or 18 hours etc... the number of photons per day is the key, and that's what DLI measures. Same number of photons over varying hours of operation = same yield / same growth rate under any common sense context.
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Roberts
Robertsanswered grow question 7 months ago
It's either over watering or they need nutrients. Light is too strong as
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Shemshemet
Shemshemetanswered grow question 7 months ago
Are you using fertiliser?
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