Spots on leaves, dying leaves, afraid of bud rot later. Last grow same plant-similar problems in the end bud rot. SleepyJoe Strain.

leaf symptoms are their own thing. while a weakened plant is less likely to avoid pathogens, leaf symptoms do not cause it to happen. Keep your environment in check and you should avoid microbes/fungus problems. bod rot and mildew invariably are due to high RH and if high temps accompany that, the risk is far greater. basically an incubator for microbes at that point. Looks like more than one thing going on as far as leaf symptoms... so it might be multiple imbalances of fertilizer mix or caused by something inhibiting a some of the nutrient molecults - pH or a particular nute being too concentrated in substrate etc... calcium is easily locked out by being too acidic, but calcium is the molecule that more often locks out other stuff rather than being locked out by another molecule's concentration. (see mulder's chart for a mess of relationships between the various nutrient molecules) the rust spots are a sign of calcium deficiency. the burnt tips and interveinal chlorosis unaccompanied by spots are something else. If your pH isn't extra low, i'd assume a minor adjustment to fertilizer formula should fix what you see. might want to see how this progresses mroe to more confidently diagnose the symptoms. At this point there are several suspects.. too much p, k or s can cause thsoe burnt tips - so can the start of a k-deficiency (this would progress along the serated tips and easily diagnosed at that point). i don't think mg is involved because the symptoms just don't match up. I don't see a reason to believe there is a "massive" buildup of nutes. the leaves are not too lush etc. If the progression of symptoms is unlike anything on a leaf chart, i would lean toward a buidlup being the cause, but it doesnt seem to be the case based on what the plant looks like today. just in case compare watering habits: 1) fully saturate, always.. never leave dry pockets or inconsistently wet zones in the substrate. this is not "overwatering." This is watering correctly. Entire volume should be saturated. 2) wait for approriate dryback for water capacity of substrate. if high water capacity, wait for 1" deep to dry. in something like coco it doesn't dry as deeply before it needs water. if in soilles, add "10% runoff" to step one. If deviating from this, it might be the cause of damage immediately near the veins in leaves. if any problems result from these steps it is 100% due to how the soil/substrate was constituted. use more drainage amendments in future (50% of volume should be perlite or similar for a proper gas:water mix and proper drainage -- impossible to overwater when constituted properly.)