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Currently week 4 end and starting 5 and some plants leaves are droppy and some not and have diffrence in the color of the leaves help

Wizthc
Wizthcstarted grow question 11 days ago
Before started using co2 enrich 2 weeks ago they was fine using with regulator controller, sensor and tank. Temp 26-27C RH 50-65% ppfd 900-1000 from the canopy measured center of the light. Strain is moby dick and in site said 8-9 week of flower. Watered yesterday
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 10 days ago
Lots of great answers and info. 2 cents to add. Helped me to understand what CO2 does naturally indoors and how it changes over a daily cycle. We have photosynthesis by day that eats up all the CO2 it can find; at night, the plant begins cellular respiration, ejecting CO2 back into the tent. It has a small footprint at first, but as she grows more and more, CO2 is produced overnight. Early mornings in a tent will have maximum CO2. Now, when the plant is small, there is not much created, but in a 4x4 in the full swing of flowering, she can sit anywhere around 1200-2000ppm by her own creation alone at lights on. As the day progresses, she eats up all the CO2; come nighttime, the tent is depleted and can get to 4-600ppm. (CO2 is dense; I read a lot of people say that an exhausting tent will deplete the tent, but not with a bit of creative planning and understanding of HVAC, it won't, like everything else its just all pressures, switches and signals and finding that sweet spot through trial and error one way to do it) Why is this important? The CO2 compensation point (Γ) is the CO2 concentration where the rate of photosynthesis equals the rate of respiration, meaning the plant neither absorbs nor releases CO2. In a closed system, as the CO2 concentration decreases, the photosynthetic rate of illuminated leaves will also decrease until the rate of CO2 uptake for photosynthesis equals the rate of CO2 release from respiration. Don't supplement CO2 at night; oxygen is a requirement at night, the same way CO2 is needed during the day. Although available in much larger quantities than CO2, it is still something that can run short if proper airflow is not given at night, especially in smaller, more restricted spaces. When CO2 levels increase, plants respond by partially closing their stomata, reducing water loss through the stomata. High Co2 overnight will greatly restrict cellular respiration when combined with low Co2 environmental metrics. Especially so when people let RH sit at 65% all night, further crippling gas exchange. This is also why you need temps up in the 86F-93F range during daylight to utilize CO2 above 1000ppm. You don't realize how much water she burns through to cool until you try it. Chlorophyll needs replenished at a much higher rate than normal; this requires an increased magnesium dosage to deal with excess replenishment of chloryphyll across the plant. possibly a wee dose of nitrogen needed too. With massive levels of transpiration running high CO2, whatever VPD calculations are made for daytime should be made with a -5F modifier for LeafST; this doesn't apply to nighttime respiration. You are running 1000 µmol m-2 s-1 @80F at 1000µmol m-2 s-1 over 12 hours is 43DLI, plant can do 40DLI @400ppm. Look to hit around 60DLI if you elevate CO2. You're not in the range to make use of elevated CO2, but the elevated CO2 is reducing the stomatal aperture or the ability to perform gas exchange without the environmental conditions that would come with levels of CO2 that high. Gas exchange is responsible for the water column cohesion plant's ability to pull water through the plant. Wonder why your car's not going fast because it's in the wrong gear. On a 12-hour daylight, look to have a dedicated 4-hour window pushing environmentals to match elevated CO2 at 1800µmol m-2, both sides of that have normal 900-1000µmol m-2 with normal environmentals to match. Only supplement CO2 during a 4-hour window when its ballllllls to the walls to make that extra 20 moles. Do not supplement at night, at 400ppm 40moles in a day At 1,800ppm, 60moles in a day, or somewhere about. If plant sucks in more CO2 than it produces the medium will become a carbon sink, more carbon = more moisture retention. This links into to sugar signalling complexes, then you start to learn borons role in all of that and on and on and on like layers of a endless onion. Good luck Wiz
yan402
yan402answered grow question 10 days ago
Just a side note, without added CO₂, you’d normally keep things a bit more chill: PPFD around 700–850 Temps closer to 24–26°C RH around 50–60% CO₂ stays ambient (~400–450ppm) Once you start adding CO₂ and pushing light, the plants want more of everything to keep up, so the fade you’re seeing lines up. Just gotta match their new pace.
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yan402
yan402answered grow question 10 days ago
Hey growmie, just had a look and to be honest, they don’t look bad at all. Buds are forming nicely and structure’s good. That pale color and bit of droop just looks like they are asking for a little more now that you have added CO₂. Once you boost CO₂ and light, the plants start working overtime, and they’ll want more to match. Usually it’s magnesium, nitrogen, or just overall feed that needs bumping a bit. That lime green shade is a common sign they’re running light. I don’t usuat check runoff ever, but in your case it might actually be worth it, just to rule out any pH drift or salt buildup slowing things down. Few things I’d change: Small feed increase, especially cal-mag or a bloom mix with micros Make sure your temps and RH match your CO₂ setup, you can run it a bit warmer and higher now Doesn’t look like overfeeding to me, more like they’re just ahead of the current feed levels. You’re in a solid spot, just gotta match their pace now. And yeah, a diary would help a lot, makes it easier to spot patterns and track any small changes negative or otherwise.
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sanibelisl
sanibelislanswered grow question 11 days ago
Looks like you got them a little too wet when they were wanting more calmag as they were going fully into flower. Try letting the soak dry back before you water with plain 6.0-6.2 ph’d water. Remove the runoff, I use a turkey baster, let it dry back again then water as usual starting with a dose mixed with calmag. Very important when mixing nutrients to do correctly and in a certain order or things will get screwed up know matter how much you try to get it right. I believe the correct order is , silicates, calmag, base nutrients (npk)or parts A&B ect. , bloom boosters( extra pk), other additives, rhizomes and you ph. It is important when using silicates to let the solution buffer for a period of time before adding any other nutrients. And be aware silicates will RAISE the ph and will NEED checked before watering your plants. I don’t think you have a huge problem just a little wet at the wrong time.
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GoldenWeedGrower
GoldenWeedGroweranswered grow question 11 days ago
Your humidity is too low for that temperatures in the veg phase. Try to stay in the VPD range for veg: https://vpdchart.com
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 11 days ago
what co2 ppm are you maintaining? 900-1000 PPFD is not a single location measurement. Do you mean 900-1000 umol/s PAR? If that is the center reading under the light, then the overal average is much lower and you are not making use of additional available CO2. Plus, a rate without hours of operation is not useful. DLI is what you need to be estimating, and even that is not a simple measurement and forget it.. you need to observe plants and adjust based on their growth pattern. Target ppfd or rather dli is just a starting point. Local variables make for different 'maximums' you can provide. If your environment shifts wildy, that means different max dli throughout any 1 day, too. which opens door to damage if trying to gas it hard. You should water at the beginning of a light cycle not the end. The plant barely drinks at night so all that is doing is stagnating the water for 6-12 hours before the plant starts to use it. Higher risk of molds and other things if the substrate is saturated right before lights out too. In fact if ever automated, should have the timer set to water shortly before the lights come on, but that's not necessary. You can use google to verify this is objectively the correct time to water. You'll very easily find confirmation. the slight clawing may or may not be environmental or a matter of your fertilization. Your VPD is ranging quite a bit due to your 50-65% RH (is this including dark cycle? if not as dramatic during light hours, that'd be a good thing.) Just because everything looked fine 2 weeks ago does not mean something was slowly building up or getting exhausted. 1.5 VPD really shouldn't cause too much clawing and that seems to be your ceiling for vpd. maybe, some component of fertilizer is too high. If you want more yield, i'd strongly recommend just getting a 2nd tent or upsizing this one. It'll be more cost-effective than co2 and you aren't really controlling your environment tightly enough to fully take advantage of your additional co2. So, you are getting a reduced return on your co2. Though if you already invested in it.. that may change the math. If you want to make good use of the co2, you need better control over temps, rh and more DLI. It's mos tlikely cheaper to add 20% more space (and yield) than get 20% more yield from CO2 added to same sized space -- or wahtever the actualy percentage is.. 20-30% is likely the ceiling on that based on what i've read.
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Ninjabuds
Ninjabudsanswered grow question 11 days ago
1 make sure to only water right b4 lights out 2. Start giving plant periods where soil gets dry 3. Check soil run off ph seems like the ph might b off 4.its very possible there not getting enough co2 with a large tent and some much plant smashed in there maybe get a 2nd exhaust fan 1 pushing air in the tent and one pulling air out maybe grab a couple box fans and put them down below the plants. 5 make sure you don’t have the rh super far off a good zone 6. Some the plants might require more nutrients than the ithers
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