1 pound 1 plant with 450w ?

Need supplemental side lighting in such a constricted space, with only top down, your plant is getting only top 2-3 layers of penetration with red and blue from one direction, everything deeper will only get green (larf popcorn nugs) (shitty secondary metabolite profile) (still gets you stoned though). Possible, but you would really have to have everything dialed in and tickety boo. Generally speaking, the higher the light intensity, the shorter the internodal spacing. If you really want to pack on weight, you need to get the framework job done in the first 4 weeks. Right now, your yield will be decent, colas will form nice, long, lanky kabob sticks, but there will be gaps, and she won't be as beefy as you'd hope. Leaves are more resistant to heat than buds, buds are more resistant to light than leaves, until proper buds form, you crank it up, up to 86F @ 400pmm(higher depending on co2) let the ppfd fly, This will crank your rate of transpiration, this will increase turgor pressure considerably, given the plant is not hypoxia'd to death via 24/7 80%RH and you keep oxygen supplied at night in a medium, keeping cellular respiration processing ATP at optimal levels, with all that extra energy and turgor, floral development will explode with compact and dense internodal spacing during stretch, after first 4 weeks look to cool off temps as buds form but keeping high light until last couple of weeks when its all about trichomes preservation and nitrogen recycling. Optimize all 9 cardinal rules of plant growth, both day and night, the best you can. A good negative pressure setup can increase yields as much as 20%. A good CO2 setup can increase yield by another 20%, learn the difference between root respiration and cellular respiration. Use that knowledge, and then you don't need any fancy equipment to create as much CO2 as you need. None of this can be achieved with the tent doors wide open. Without a negative pressure, all the CO2 the plant ejects overnight is lost to the environment. 3 weeks into flower, she is looking healthy and vibrant. She will yield nicely. Right now, she is growing at her leisurely pace, peacefully growing, and that's perfectly fine, but if you want bragging rights to your friend, then your plants need to be grown with discipline and intention to push the optimal parameters for growth desired to occur. The tips of leaves look to be on the brink of high EC in medium, also looking a little lime green for my comfort. If I were you I'd be checking my pH and making sure it's not drifted alkaline, especially in that big huge ceramic pot where oxygen will become scarce during the height of flower, as soon as oxygen gets low in that medium, you lose about 90% of a plant's ATP potential, when ph goes over 7 Phosphorous starts to bind to available iron, especially in oversaturated or waterlogged mediums, iron changes the way it converts in a medium causing it to become unavailable for uptake, iron is critical for chlorophyll production, if iron starts to bind up elsewhere then plants cannot replenish chlorypyll which is constantly needing to be replensished based on how much she photosynthesize. Around 40% of the carbon your plant captures is fed to the roots as sugars to feed microorganisms, as they feed on sugars, they release energy and CO2 into the medium, this process is increased a lot during flower, without negative pressure to mimic high and low pressure fronts of nature, all that CO2 will become trapped in soil over time, slowly increasing moisture retention until eventual hypoxia takes hold, what you need is soil respiration via negative pressure linked to ambient RH%. Create a functioning lung room. The more energy you devote to your plants, the more energy they can devote to bigger buds. cat feces and urine can release CO₂ as they decompose through oxidation but there are much better solutions :) Inch by inch.

I bet there will be from 700 g to a kilogram of dry grass here

450w -- even a low end light can give you 1g/watt, which would be roughly 1 lbs. DLI is what you want to focus on, not wattage. Efficacy varies. DLI is a much truer measurment of energy provided to the plant. A high efficacy light can easily excede 1.5g/w, so a high efficacy light should shoot for 675-g or more, not 450ish. If it's a low-end efficacy light, you won't go that high, so 450w can mean different things.

Easily bro,my friend takes off 2.8 g per w on 2x2m, zeus pro 2.9 600w

1 plant or many is mostly irrelevant given common sense context. 1 plant just means longer vege requirements and more electricty, which tends to be the biggest cost of all unless you buy a bunch of overpriced soil/nutrient products. area (size) of canopy and 'enough' medium to provide will produce 50-70g/sq ft. I'm sure there's some sort of physical retrain ceiling as far as how big 1 plant can be grown, but under any common sense context won't be part of the equation. Some phenos may be less and some rarity might push higher, but probably not without supplemental CO2. from-seed, shooting for 50g/sq ft is an attainable goal even with diversity involved. Much easier to exceed it with clones. 50g/sq foot will excede 1lb in a m^2 by about 100g. Get a clone with a killer yield, well-controlled enviornment with ambient co2 and you might reach 70g/sq ft or more, and might exceed that target production by 300g. This isn't a high-end achievement but does tell you your methods are proficient, and the rest is splitting hairs, anyway.

Se não conseguires 500g vai andar muito próximo, todo o espaço esta preenchido, acredito perfeitamente que consigas algo dentro desse gênero, e já agora parabéns pelo monstro 👊👽

your friend is a natural born underachiever

It is very possible to get this kind of result! I understand the negative responses however. If someone has never achieved it, they can’t comprehend the possibility.