how to change from grow to bloom nutrience

I wait approximately 10 days after flipping to 12h light cycle before starting bloom nutes.

gradual change' Think in nature, da soil takes time to change compozition, it may rain a week or two and depoizit nutriets and minerals, bugs will spread nitriates around...all of it done gradually. Perhaps its a strain more suitable for garden growing then tent ?

Only switch to bloom nutes once there are small budlets formed, this could be up to 2-3 weeks after going to 12/12. 12/12 will take some time to trigger flowering by altering the plants hormones. Cannabis still needs adequate nitrgen in early flower to help with "the stretch". I give grow for the first 2 weeks of 12/12, then half grow, half bloom for the next 10 days, then only switch to full bloom nutrients after that. It seems to work for me and it seems to prevent the plants from cannabilizing themselves completely at harvest maturity.

It's not stressed out at all, it's totally on point :) You actually want to push nutes to the point where you have slightly burned tips, because then you know you're not under-feeding and pushing the plant as much as possible. Depending on what nutes you use, you might not want to change from veg nutes to flower nutes until late stretch (2-3 weeks from flip), since stretching requires a lot of N, if you move towards more P+K at flip get less yield but might cut a little off the flowering time.

Regardless of what you should do and bro-science standard operating procedure... allow the plant's health to dictate. A deficiency or toxicity is a matter of imbalance over time. The ratio and concentration that you have fed since the begininng will impact the needs now and later. So, there's too much variety for a one-size fits all, even if one strategy does work well, you will always need to adjust to the plant in front of you when it inevitably deviates. e.g. i gave plain water for 17 days in the middle of my 2026-1 grows because i had overfed up to that point. In 2026-2 i'm at the same stage where it started to get lush but since i dropped my formula concentration sooner leading into flower, I can't see it, yet, but i expect it to come.. When i notice it get darker, i'll drop further before it progresses. Trial and error until i eliminate the occurence altogether... it takes a bit of consistency in other things to do this properly. HAd i been more systematic early and settled on a consistent process i should have dialed this in years ago. too many changes grow to grow = fog of war. Great thing about soilless/hydro is that if systmatic you can eliminate most of the guessing, eventually. But it's not about day-to-day tweaking. It's more about what you've done since day one and the cumulative effect over time and relative to the potential rate of growth your local environment (light, co2, temp, rh, medium) allow. Since many of these factors vary garden to garden, you'll need to figure out what balances out in your garden -- and if you grow year round you may have seasonal differences. This perception also doesn't preclude that needs can change in flower vs vege (and, when it comes to fertilization, consider more about the type of growth ongoing - leaf and steam elongation vs when that stuff stops. Just because it's technically in "flower phaste" doesn't mean the needs changed abruptly. That vege growth continues 3-4 weeks into flower. How you transition is heavily impacted by what you've donen so far. It's not foie gras, so the recommendations to bomb it with this or that are particular times is masturbatorial. Growth happens over 4 months... doing something different for 24 hours or even a week isn't going to change the metabolism or potential growth rate that results from the local environmental variables. There's no circumventing this harmony/balance with 'boosters' or gimmicks. I feed 50ppm P and 180-some K pretty much early vege through start of flower ... I don't need to boost it in flower. It's stocked up enough in leaves and with the reduced feed i give after vege growth stops is also enough that i never see a deficiency in the leaves from either vast majority of the time. Trial and error to get there. Balance... not "blast it with K in week 4" or "drastically shift your formula even though the plant is healthy!" Now, i'm not saying doing so is the absolute best. Many ways to skin this cat and have a healthy plant, but the differences from one healthy plant to the next will be small even if when you provide more p/k relative to use could have some measurable benefit by comparison. If you avoid symptoms deep into flower, and can chalk up what you do see to late flower senescence, you're probably doing things as well as you can... and the differences between that and 'perfectly optimal' aren't worth the effort. Sometimes hard to generalize as it leads to minor contradictions.. e.g. i said 'rate of use' just in that last paragraph, but provision of nutes around roots is more about a proper ratio not to impede each other and not to match rate of use. Taking in nutrients is an active process not a matter of diffusion - or at least significantly not.. the specifics aren't relevant to understanding the gist. Best way to provide nutrition around roots is about how easily the plant can grab the stuff, and much less so the rate of use in the plant. That's why soilless/hydro growth is so efficient... it's a consistent ratio and concentration around the roots of 100% plant avaiable nutrition. 10% runoff in soilless or each drain and refill in hydro resets it and maintains it over time. Also why you can't just top it off and should have some intermittent drain and refill step over time. The plant selectively grabbing stuff can throw the balance off, eventually, if you don't get the runoff religiously in soilless or the more complete drain/refill procedure in hydro you'll have unknown shifts in concentration and ratio around roots. side note... Why did you make a huge gap in your canopy? (rhetorical question) The plant has less photosynthetic potential and will take in less co2 which will only have a negative impact. Not much stress involving photosynthesis or transpiration can have a positive effect. Light and CO2 are the limiting factors in any grow that isn't a dumpster fire for other reasons.