Why are leaves twisting

Troubleshooting Fan Leaf Twisting in Coco * Validate the Heat/Light Stress Theory: Twisting, canoeing, or "tacoing" of fan leaves is a textbook symptom of intense lighting (too high PPFD/PAR) or excessive canopy heat, especially if it's happening at the very top where the plant gets the most exposure. * The Nitrogen Connection: High nitrogen levels can contribute to leaf distortion, typically presenting as "the claw" (where the very tips of the leaves curl downward sharply like a hook) rather than a general sideways twisting, and it is usually accompanied by an unnaturally dark, shiny green color. * Check Root Zone EC and pH: Since they are growing in coco using Advanced Nutrients, twisted growth can sometimes be an early warning sign of salt buildup or a shifting root-zone pH, which locks out calcium and magnesium and causes erratic leaf development. * Back Off the Lights or Heat: If the twisting is concentrated directly under the primary light source, slightly dim the LEDs or raise the fixture a few inches, and ensure canopy temperatures stay comfortably under 85°F (29°C). * Inspect Nitrogen Levels: Check if the leaves are exceptionally dark green alongside the twist. If so, a slight reduction of the base micro/grow nutrients in their current feed schedule might help. * Verify Runoff EC/pH: Check the runoff to ensure salt concentrations aren't creeping up too high in the coco, as coco is notorious for holding onto salts if not watered to proper runoff frequently.

Hey Dad, nice little diary, always fun to get new toys to add to the tent, lots of things going on in here, lots to address, hmmm G4500 already has IR. Supplementing extra IR when the main light already has it can send the ratio above what the plant finds optimal, which is 20-30%. of reds, anymore will initiate shade avoidance/streching, dial it back once you get the canopy to the level you want, and 100% off as she stretches. General shape and size of leaves tell me she is in a very highly saturated light near her peak; this requires her "flow" to be highly efficient in order to maintain the high metabolic demand you are placing on her. Things are not ticking along perfectly, though, as symptoms present many small tells: twisting is most likely from excess nitrogen; red stems and petioles across the plant are at its roots; rootzone hypoxia (oxygen starvation). Everything was going perfectly until it wasn't. Crispy margin edges, repeatedly running low on water near the end of your days, slightly overaggressive light/heat for the amount of water she is supplied with on a daily basis, this is recurring, Noticed you have been feeding cal mag every week since germination; if your water in and runoff are not regimented and done correctly, it could be a spike in cal mag causing pH drift. A lot of the time, tap water has enough calcium and magnesium in it itself. The plant is showing signs of some magnesium deficiency, but I'm guessing that's more the pH drift presenting as a secondary symptom. The concentration of oxygen in water is higher than in soil that is saturated with water. Also, oxygen moves about 10,000 times slower in water than it does in the air, but moves much more slowly (320,000 times less than in air) when the soil pores are filled with water. So even if the porosity is great, even if you added perlite, fabric pots are not as breathable as you think. When you top water, it can quickly compress over time; this is especially true if you just blast it in all at once. RH may possibly be too high overnight too at 60%; you need to make sure it's not coming over 70% at night. I don't see tip damage from EC shock.... Give her a good flush to reset, and apply a fresh load of EC to reset. Too much calcium antagonising nitrogen, skewing pH, not enough water capacity for transpiration at the high light/heat intensity you ARE SETTING ON A DAILY BASIS, ops caps. Just not enough oxygen either; pushing her as hard as you are requires dialling in the environment, similar to driving a car fast; the wheels fall off quicker too, lack of oxygen at night with high RH will cripple cellular respiration at night; this can place the entire "responsibility " on "daytime" conversion............ She is very fine and long, but won't have enough juice to do much with it. The energy conversion as a whole is severely bottlenecked 3-4 weeks of flower, those branches should be packed already. Oxygen is vital to that. Best of luck Dude. *burp*

Good afternoon, add another little fan at the top directed at the leaves to try to reduce the heat and do one or two waterings just with water to wash out any excess nutrients that might be there... Good job!

Yeah your right to think over fert on nitro... its causing the twisted crispy shinny leaves not much you can do apart from lower the feed in the area.. GL