Quick germination. Put seeds into a cup of purified water, let soak for about 12 hours (until they sank) before placing directly into medium. Used smaller containers in the beginning, with zero amendments added to the mixture. Transplanted into permanent home before roots reached the edge, so there was no delay/shock involved.

Letzte Woche viel um die Ohren gehabt, und die Ladys wurden leider vernachlässigt machen sich aber ganz oke Jetzt nochmal ein wenig lollipoppen und sonst arbeitet die Zeit für mich

Will be harvesting her in the next few days.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

In the end, I harvested 310g of dry plants, discarding all the popcorn. Not a bad result, even if I didn't reach my goal of 450g. I decided to leave a few leaves and let it re-vegetate. It's growing very quickly, and I'll soon send it back to flowering. Thank you all for following the diary and leaving likes and comments. Happy growing to all my friends.🌽🌽🌽

This girl has been the surprise for me this run. She was more of a space filler than a chosen strain but my god has she impressed me. The structure of the plant is immense. So strong with super thick branches. Buds are very fat and very dense with a great frosting already. I'm looking forward to see how this one finishes.. I've run out of big fruits which is a flowering booster I use and have come to rely on for very dense buds.. I hope to get some more this week..🤞🏼 Uvb runs twice a day for an hour each session. X-Bars are at 55% and are giving an average of 1005umols. Feeds are at 1.8ec still. Last week for more pk then we will be just on bloom. Thanks for passing. Grow well 🌿💚🌿🙏🏼🌿

Heya👍🤙👍🌱 Last feed for this Grow. Less is more and the Top Max will bump those buds. Check out my Facebook profile: https://www.facebook.com/share/v/H6PnoahTHrEzm63U/?mibextid=oFDknk Big BIG BIG thank you to Sebastien, Heather from Fastbuds420. You guys are the best. Can't wait for the next live. Even Bigger shout out to Hydroponic.co.za. My local Hydro Shop and Sponsor. Thank you Sir. 👍🤙👍🌱

10.06.2023 RACCOLTO_RED HOT COOKIES Sweet Seeds 🌱 142 giorni dal seme 🌼 70 giorni fioritura ⚖️ 2895 grammi non secchi totale di 4 piante Tutto è andato per il meglio in questa corsa. Le 4 piante di Red hot cookies si sono dimostrate veramente forti. Colori stupendi a fine fioritura, non rossi come speravo, profumo di terra, dolcezza e aspro mescolati con note di gas, un profilo terpenico molto interessante. Lo scrog effettuato da me, non credo abbia dato il massimo potenziale di queste piante, con il tempo migliorerò anche questo aspetto, ma spero di stare su 1 hg a pianta di media. Aggiornamento a breve con peso a secco, foto dei fiori ripuliti e rapporto sulla potenza di questa varietà. Ringrazio tutti quelli che sono passati a vedere il mio diario, a tutti i like i commenti e ai consigli.. un grande love a tutta la community di growdiaries 💚🙏

Excited to see the pistols keep coming and coming I have such tight spacing that the buds will probably start connecting by the end of the week on the Royal Gorilla Day 19- Tomorrow I will tie some branches down to open up the plants more. The LSD plants needs it the most!

Week 8 Day 1: how did we get here?! Northern Lights is looking beautiful (the only plant in a 5 gal pot outside). No major issues. Kids were fed liquid nutrients for the second time 9/8, and will be recieving them once a week moving forward (hopefully every other watering). Gotta find a way to make watering a smoother process tho, might invest in a home RO filter 😂 Big dreams being discussed, this could be the start of the only cultivation, breeding, and distribution center that has a primary focus on re-entry and subsequent business development.. That’s how you do socially responsible business and policy. You heard me?

Since i stop spray neem oil and wood vinegar on plants some pests showing up But i counter them physically I don’t want to spray anything on the buds My balcony is my heaven now I spend all my time with my girls i don’t go for weekends because i have to water them everyday in the 4:30 am! I hope i get my rewards!:))

Día 1 y todas germinaron súper rápido 3 días Día 5 desde puesta en sustrato Ya todas están arriba Estoy solo pulverizando el sustrato Temperatura 23c humedad 75%

Welcome to my Gorilla Cookies Diary sponsored by Pure Instinto !!!!!!!!!HARVESTED!!!!!!!!!!HARVESTED!!!!!!!!!! Rating will be done once dried + 1 wk cure. Then vaped, smoked and put back in the jar for 4-8 more weeks. (SADLY, I DELETED THE PICS LAST NIGHT. AFTER UPLOADING TO A NEW 3 WK, WK, AND PAUSED IT. CAME BACK LATR AND STARTED UPDATE ON ANOTHER, WIPING AWAY 3 WKS OF PICS...GRRRRRR Roughly 105-110 days. 55-60 Days in flower. WEEKS 13-14-15 Days was harvested. Noticed a lot of dead leafs in-between the buds. Pult it back to start pulling it out. And was covered in fuzz. The Pure Zym had started degrading the dead leafs that she threw off last wk when she turned yellow. And, the smell she look of rot. So, had to go thru everything. In total 3 of the biggest buds had to be stripped, opened and cut out the rot. (Thankfully I know what to look for) so, 98-99% of it was fine. Just 3 big ass buds,,(semi colas) so so dense. And yeah. I was running her in co2 with 70+ RH with temps pushing 30c but, even in her last week of fattening she took to co2 so a bat outta hell. HARVESTED METHODS Pult and was checking her trichomes. 90-95% cloudy. And was pulling dead leafs and noticed fuzz. Harvested ASAP. She was already on water for a wk. So I stripped, checked, cleaned out the dead leaves, and de-stemed and hung on my 8 tier net Drier. Was amazed when going through her bud, removing dead leaf after dead leaf from within the buds,( BTW, was very satisfying. Was like I was 15 again in wood class pulling wood glue from my hand while the teacher driveled on. 'Memories) anyways, I digress. So, she's hung, far from ideal temperature. 21.5-19c. So, she'll dry fast. Thankfully she was heavily fed on water all week. I did flush the soil to check the ppm was 290 bit higher than I'd like. Its why I soft flush for 10-14 days. But, I panicked. And stripped her. Delighted I lost very little. Video above to what I cut out, and some of the buds. So dense Lights SP/FC 3000 SP 3000 was used from start to 2/3rds thru fattening phase. Then the FC 3000 was used with co2. Buds exploded. THANKS TO PURE INSTINTO FOR THEIR SEEDS TO TEST. And also big thanks to mars-hydro for allowing me to test their lights. Much appreciated to all who viewed, liked &/R commented, look forward to seen your diaries. Either way thanks for dropping by.

Hi everyone!if i remembered correctly i planted 3 gorilla glues and two wedding cheese cakes or the other way around haha. So this is week two and they all look happy! Images coming soon,cheers!

Hermosa floración mucha resina Defoliación para permitir mejor ingreso de luz 25 - 31 agosto

The plants are looking really healthy. I’m still getting used to my new lights. I think I didn’t push enough light in week 2 of flower I’m ramping up the light intensity now. I had to whip out my par meter I was keeping the light to far off the plants. This light has to be closer to the plants than my mini sun. I’m lurking this light a lot I just need to get used to it

it grows so fast. The lower leaves are shaded and away from the light. So I cut them as the plant gets taller I really don't have a good setup to be able to clean my roots. I tried this week anyway. I watered each pot with 2L (not enough I think :/) of water at 450PPM PH: 7 then after I gave 1L of water at 900PM PH: 5.5. There was a big puddle in the room afterwards. But it wasn't that hard to clean up after all. In 5 minutes with a rag and a bucket ------------------------------------------------ -Daytime temperature: 24-29°C -Night temperature: 22-27°C -Humidity: 50-75% ( Too high but it's hard to lower it... I need advice please contact me if you have :) ) -Lamp: Mars Hydro FC3000. intensity 80% at 40cm from the top leaves -Room: Mars Hydro 100x100x180cm -Extractor: Mars hydro 402 CFM Max. power 3/10 -Substrate : 70% coco, 25% perlite, 5% vermiculite. My instagram : https://www.instagram.com/p/CuMhQ_BsjRP/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Adding this cal mag ish stuff seems to an instant difference. Plants filling out, less yellowing. The 3rd plant went from smallest to biggest and is now flowering. Still looks different than the others, this group helped me determine this plant may be more like the mother plant. She is so strong, can’t wait for her to mature.