.

Week went good they all flowering Nicely something is wrong with app I think it changed my numbers last week and I think a week is missing but it’s ok I defoliated this one plant for the 3rd time she will need one more then lollipopping everything below 2/3 of top I been doing some experimenting with ppms so u may see some tips burnt and they are flowering so fan leaves are yellowing on a few but just normal stuff I pushed them up to about 2200 ppms to see what they can take and they drank it no worse for wear besides some burnt tips also I do swap between mammoth p recharge and dynomyco like once a week just to see if I can see difference and what works better I have to say these genetics are some of the best autos I dealt with I want to do some of fastbuds. Ff strains to see what I can do with them but we will get there when we get there also don’t mind little babies in there those are moms these being autos it’s only place I can put rn happy growing

+ # Day 35: growing !!! Day 34: more light, more progress Day 33: 3L Water (mixed EC 4.8) + Nutrien = PH 5.8 Day 32: expanding !! Day 31: temps go down , Pantime feels happy !!! Day 30: Okay, it's staying small now, and it's growing at an angle, so something must have happened to the roots. Well, it'll be interesting to see what happens. Day 29: all fine . it grows . +

Today marks the beginning of the last week of flowering for my cannabis plant. After months of care and patience, I can finally see the first amber trichomes starting to form. It's a sign that the plant is nearing the perfect time for harvest. The buds are dense and frosty, and the shift in trichome color is telling me that the plant is at its peak potency. In a couple of days, I'll move the plant out of the tent and into complete darkness for 48 hours. This process is supposed to help boost resin production and make the final buds even better. After that, it’ll be time to cut her down. It's exciting to be so close to the end, and I can't wait to see how the final product turns out!🌱🌱

Week 3 flower and they are already stacking nicely! Buds have a nice purple / blue hue to them already which is awesome!

Flushing for a little extra than usual to get some clean clean flavors. Really happy with this batch, the nugs are so dense and are oozing terpenes and trichomes. Awesome strain this one

Hace un año exactamente estábamos cruzando uno de estos blíster de dosi- gelato del cual germinaron 3 de 5 semillas regalando nos dos hembras y un macho muy resinoso y oloroso y varias genéticas campeonas y de ediciones limitadas como amerth souer diesel x somango,souer diesel, como le pondría. A ese cruce o a dosi gelato x dosi gelato de hecho esa siempre fue nuestra intención sacar el máximo de semillas posibles de nuestro primer cultivo con semillas importadas primero necesita vamos unas semillas regulares pero de buena calidad y que supiéramos un poco de su genética investigamos acerca de doci-gelato y decidimos que sería la primera base de nuestros cruces sus efectos y aromas nos llamaron la atención aparte de que el nombre estaba de moda abrimos varios blister más como blackberry gum thunder banana moví d y varias que ya no quiero nombrar porque quiero que esos sabores sean invento mío jajajja leeimos un poco de como podíamos hacer semillas y lo hicimos polinizamos 11 hembras originales o estabilizadas que no se escuche feo y 3 hembras regulares una de ellas nos la vendieron con el nombre de Hulk otra como Cherry y la última una buble gum que comparamos su olor y sabor con el de la blackberry gum de seedstockers fue muy parecido a nuestra buble gum pero con notas a moras muy buenas de hecho es un cruce que tenemos contemplado para ver si con una planta macho de buble gum regular y una blackberry gum de seedstockers podemos mejorar aun mas el sabor y el olor en nuestro país de hecho hay buenas cepas regulares hemos probado genéticas con sabor mango,pastel de arándanos,limón ,sandía ,uva y gas,chicle clásico rosa,plátano,zorrillas todas esas genéticas y variedades nos han hecho llegar a pensar que en realidad hay gente que lleva incluso mas tiempo conociendo las semillas importadas o aun mejor importando las para realizar investigar o mejorar las genéticas y sus distintos efectos en el 2012 llegué a acceder a bancos de semillas quedé deslumbrado de la cantidad de nombres que había pero no era 100% seguro entonces no quise seguir insistiendo pero ya se escuchaban nombres como mango kush, Golden Acapulco,cronic el precio era mas elevado que los demas prensados que podiamos conseguir pero eran mejores efectos y aromas ya para 2018,2021 Se empezaron a escuchar nombres como blueberry,amnecia,skunk,pineaple,og,kalifas,jirafa ,puma,gorila,Hulk, chocolopez,candy, arcoiris,cristal,poison,f1,sueño azul , Tutankamón,shark, snow,Jack jerer, y mas llevamos 13 años recolectando semillas de diferentes genéticas de cannabis siempre hemos cultivado esas semillas regulares pero nunca habíamos intentado un cruce para empezar no sabíamos como hacerlo solo sabíamos que no teníamos que dejar crecer el macho. Para 2022 después de un obsequio que tuvimos de un conocido volvimos a intentar una vez más conseguir semillas importadas nos regaló un tubo con 10 semillas del banco sweet seeds con fecha de empaquetado en 2017 llevándonos ala misma pregunta desde cuándo estaban llegando las semillas importadas y entonces algunas veces fumamos de genéticas originales al contrario de sentirme mal por no ser el primero en decir que traje genéticas originales o importadas a mi país me sentí feliz por que sabía que lo que estaba guardando todo el tiempo desde 2012 puede ser una gran colección de diferentes breeders tal vez tengamos varias ediciones especiales como la cepa froot loops, jirafe pussy,cronic,ak47 , y así fue como logramos contactar con un banco que parecía de confianza y obtuvimos dos blíster de doci-gelato , blackberry gum,thunder banana ,banana blaze y varias más hemos crecido varios de nuestros cruces pero necesitamos seguir investigando más aún para lograr estabilisar nuestras propias genéticas les dejo una foto de nuestro cruce María Sabina.

**Vegetation Phase - Week 1** The Donutz ladies have officially stepped into their first week of vegetative growth. After a strong start, we’ve gently introduced a small dose of Greenhouse Feeding Bio nutrients to begin supporting early growth. Watering remains minimal, as these young plants aren’t thirsty yet — they’re steadily finding their stride, with roots spreading through the Floragard Growmix soil. **Environment & Care**: - **Water**: Lightly administered reverse osmosis (RO) water keeps things clean and precise. - **Nutrients**: A hint of Greenhouse Feeding Bio fertilizer to nudge growth along without overwhelming. - **Conditions**: Temperature and humidity kept stable for optimal root and shoot development. **Plant Progress**: - All 10 Donutz are healthy and showing strong vigor, with consistent growth. - Leaves are vibrant and lush, indicating proper photosynthesis and nutrient uptake. - We can almost imagine their roots spreading through the rich Floragard soil, exploring and establishing themselves, while above ground, they’re standing strong and ready to keep pushing upward. The sea is calm but promising; each young Donutz is primed to expand and flourish. The tent remains a harmonious environment, setting the stage for an epic SOG canopy. Patience and gentle care continue to be key as they find their rhythm in this new life.

Okay here we go.... 6 seeds..... 6 different kind of phenos #F 1-6 They all different to each other... From the taste from the look from the smell from the strength ..... But for me it is perfekt than I have a little bit Option to change when I want another taste or strength. From the result in the first point I am happy But for a strain with 7 weeks flower (they need nearly 10 weeks) I think the waight is a little bit to less. But I am very happy with that result it is okay 😊😋. And from the cuttet trim I have made some iceolator bubble hash and this result is nearly perfect... Okay let's view some pictures....

—SETUP— .BOSSLED LED 1800W full spectrum, real power consumption is +-250W. .Grow space 60X100X200(a simple shower box. .AN nutes and other simple additives. .Grow medium is 60% peat, 30% perlite, 10% organic correction(worm castings), 5 gallon fabric pots(18l). —BRIEF— Hi there, I have tried already done this genetic outdoors, in poor lighting and a general purpose nute from Neudorff, yielded 25g dry, in 3gallon pots same medium. So this is a good experiment, lets see indoors how she will compare. —GERMINATION— My germination process always start by scarifying the seeds, i created a little tool for that. I just a little container with sandpaper walls. Shake gently for about 60 secs+, this allows for the water to penetrate better in the seed shell, once you soak. Then i soak overnight from 12 to 20 hours max. From there i either plant straight or use the paper towel method to see the tap root before. If you are a bit on the impatient side seen the tap root is advisable so you see some movement before planting. Lol! —ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS . QUICK ONE . INFO — Chose this strain because is basic and I have to travel for a month soon, and someone else is going to take care for this time. :) Quick One is a fast-growing autoflowering strain. This was one of the first autoflowering strains developed. When it was first released, it was one of the quickest growing strains on the planet. THC: 13% CBD: Low Yield Indoor : 275 - 325 gr/m2 Yield Outdoor: 100 - 150 gr/plant Height Indoor: 50 - 60 cm Height Outdoor: 60 - 100 cm Flowering: 5 - 6 Weeks Harvest month: 8-9 weeks after sprouting Genetic Background: Strong Indica x Ruderalis Type: Sa 10% In 60% Ru 30% Effect: Physical Climate: Mild —RQS QUICK ONE GERMINATION UPDATE— My mood said to me to plant straight, so scarify > soak 18 hours +- > plant straight. Seedlings look a bit odd, with a yellow center, let's give her some days in and see what happens next.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Lack of space I had to move two plant to other tent Honestly there is no room for 6 plants Another problem is that they stretched a lot, but rly a lot.

Been feeding just water ready for the chop. Some of them have all brown pistils and have pretty much stopped all together. The kalimist indica pheno is still flowering so I'll let it go until it looks ripe 👍

11/17 removed nutrients from water, plant will be ready to harvest in a week or so, I'll be doing the flush until harvest. Buds did turn to a more noticeable purple, pistols are orange and shrinking. I have noticed a few trichomes starting to turn amber. I'm excited to see harvest dry weight, buds are very large.

Absolutely gorgeous strain 😍, the all 3 phenos of Runtz muffin have big size, fat big leafs and they look like they can't wait to get very big and produce many fat sticky colas! This is gonna be a great strain to grow here in spain outdoors, I really hope to find a new favorite flavor here!!

Idhdb

yeah baby nearly there - just water.... Took some iPhone macros

- Week 6 - ----- Day 36 ----- No feeding today as it was tomorrow so nutrient line up isn't up yet. I'll do that tomorrow. Ladies are perfect, I can't wait. less than 30 days away. ----- Day 37 ----- Today is feeding but back left is behind the other 3 again, gave the other 3 500ml of tap water (10ppm) to prevent turgor pressure loss while back left dries up. Should be feeding in 3-4 hours. 23L 1100-1500ppm (new feeding, so ppm end is not known atm) 6.4 pH Plants are insane, big Bertha has become middle Bertha as the other stems have fattened up quickly. Speaking of which plants are in bulk period, 3~ weeks left so it's an exciting time to watch them fatten up. **UPDATE** Fed at 1000ppm 23L 6.4pH The removal of FloraNova Bloom, and letting the chelated Diamond Nectar go to work on the molasses brings down the "accountable" parts by the machine I use. 1000ppm is full strength on all fertilizers being used. I might add more molassses in the future and bring it up to 2ml/L, and maybe a smidge of epsom salts next feeding via foliar or direct feeding after I do some research. No more KoolBloom liquid, KoolBloom powder begins and she's a strong one. ----- Day 38 ----- Yesterday back left plant has me unnecessarily anxious. It didn't need watering till 2 hours before lights off. What I did is fed the other 3 90% of the feeding, and only gave back left 10% (closed the irrigation heads till the end of feeding). I'm HOPING it was the plant transitioning from pre-bulk flower to bulk-flower stage, and maybe it slowed down photosynthesis to concentrate on hormonal changes. I dont know I'm anxious and just talkin out loud. I'll know within 72 hours if there's a major issue with back left. Plant looks fine, i'm just paranoid. Pictures later today around mid light cycle. Buds are getting insanely fat. **Update** Was bored. Here's some wicked shots. Still 25-27~ days left and its big bulk time. Can't wait to see them at the end. ----- Day 39 ----- Everything is great. Feeding late tonight or potentially tomorrow depending on back left plant. I want to make sure bottom center of the root zone has dried out and doesn't begin to mold before I water again. This will also help prevent fungus gnats in the soil. I'll keep the other 3 away from turgor pressure loss, but they got 90% of the feeding last time so I expect them to dry by the time back left is. *** Update *** Now the other 3 plants who were faster on water intake than back left yesterday have slowed down. Weed growing knowledge at a Horticultural greenhouse scientific repeatable level is pure fucking garbage. I have 6~ books and checked dozens of sites and there was major conflicting info on water intake. That's the problem with cannabis, it was illegal for so damn long horticulture practices and knowledge never molded or were used in the process and now it's anyone's fucking guess as to who is telling truth or is spouting bullshit bro-science. Don't even get me started on names. What a stupid god damn naming system "counter-culture" created... I'm growing wedding cake.. WEDDING CAKE? Wtf. That's stupid as shit. Give weed botanical Latin names based on appearance and technical factors PLEASE!!!!!! If I could name this plant it would be (Cannibas v. hybrid 'multa-magnum-fragum-gemmae-dulcis') why? It's due to it being a; Cannabis plant, hybrid variety 'multiple big bud strawberry candy' showing off multiple long bud stems smelling of candy, Is that more convoluted and arrogant than Wedding cake? YES, it is. Is it better? YES fuck your stupid wedding cake name. That's dumb. And you should feel bad. Still want to argue? Name it Cannabis v. Hybrid 'crustulam nuptias' THERE! Wedding cake. fuuuck! 99.99% of plant names are Latin. Anyways... back to the point... I hypothesize that there is a secondary transition portion of flower where the plant (like in stretch transition) pauses its growth to move the hormone and nutrient production to other sources. This secondary pause happens JUST before bulk session begins. This hypothesis states roughly that up until final big bulk period (last 3-4 weeks), fan leaves and sugar leaves could still be produced by the plant during a "predator" or "high weather event" situation that would cripple the plants photosynthesis for final bud/seeding production during early to mid stage flowering. Once the plant has reached adequate nutrient reserves or some other time or light cycle based trigger, it removes the hormonal/internal production/ability of sugar/fan leaves still being potentially produced out of the internode stem cells and fully stops that ability and concentrates 100% of growth on bud structure and protection of bud structures through THC/CBA/CBC/CBD etc. (Im a little tipsy, can't spell cannabinoid leave me alone...) production. Tonight I will at 30 minutes before lights off be judging the water requirements during sleep of each plant to prevent turgor pressure loss, and to allow each plant to finish this transition and get back to major water intake by feeding tomorrow morning. It's insanely obvious somethings changed. I Was worried that leaving back left plant with stagnant water in the bottom saucer (pot doesn't sit directly in the water but is 3 inches above it) had released mold spores and started destroying the root mass of the back left plant but: 1) No obvious plant death signs, weakness or other aspects of it being a slow death from bottom up. 2) The other plants did the same damn thing within 48 hours.... and the back left plant is by far the largest and gets the most "light" due to its size hence it would most likely (HYPOTHESIS) finish its secondary cycle a bit faster due to just volume and weight. Listen i'm not gonna say this is all 100% correct knowledge, It's based off feeling and "knowing" plant cycles as a greenhouse certified Horticultural Technician. Repeated efforts to grow and replicating situations that created these things over and over is the real proof and will come in time. One major benefit is the fact I WILL be re-flowering these for the VERY LEAST 3 full flowering cycles as long as they don't die during flower to veg transition. I will be getting them THC tested EVERY SINGLE flower cycle to prove without a doubt the "maximum maturity" possible of a weed plant re-veg flower cycling, just like how we know by the 5th or 6th successive clone, the DNA will deteriorate and the grow will be stunted or a lesser bud high and yield. God I fucking ramble when I'm bored and tipsy. ----- Day 40 ----- Fed at 1350ppm 6.3pH 23L Plants are doing great. **Update** Little fun video from mid light cycle. Roughly 20-25 days left. Will finish at 30% amber 70% cloudy and will cut branch by branch as they are done, not in a rush to do 1 single cut and will let them survive to re-veg easier and less stressful. ----- Day 41 ----- Easy day. Here's some pics. Just basically have to watch the grass grow today. ----- Day 42 ----- Big photo day, used ruler for most shots. End of beginning of bulk, big bulk starts tomorrow. Could probably feed late night tonight but I'm going to just give 500-750 ml of water depending on roots needs before lights off. Tomorrow will be a big feed for first day of week 7. Tropicanna Glookies tips on back right are beginning to darken and become purple. I am hoping this whole plant turns purple in last 2-3 weeks. We will see. **Update** Back right plant is starting to turn purple and FAST. Pretty awesome.