Hi everyone Today day 30 and I stop feeding with silica and I take co2 bag off too due make high humidity also I reduced bio grow from 3ml to 1ml for this week next week i will stop bio grow till harvest And I done aggressive defoliation on bottom almost take half leafs down Update day 39 I done another defoliation and some lst to keep them separate from each other guys the orange sherbat is thirsty strain and seems she love nutrients she drank twice a day and each time 1.5L nutrients whitch is .5 calmag 2ml heaven 2ml activera 2ml alg amic 2ml bloom 1ml top max Because they are in small pot so I don't wanna give lots off water so I prefer to feed them twice a day

. YEAR 6 - 1st quarter ---------------------- Back from Africa in August 2025, I’m getting back to work 😊 This time, no hesitation about the setup : I’m going big: a 120×120×180 tent with my two TS1000s, plus two FCevo1500s, for a total of 600 W over 1.44 m². That’s finally a decent setup for home use 👌 I’m starting this new season with some Fastbuds: 5 White Widows in 15-liter pots and 1 Banana Purple Punch in an 8-liter pot. The 5 White Widows produced 558 g : a new record by far! 👍 Shows that nothing matters more than light The Banana is nearing the end of its cycle; results coming soon.

Ho trapiantato le piantine fuori con un esposizione sud est e ho bagnato con 1 ml litro di fish mix. il terreno è preparato con un mix del' 70% di light mix e 30% terreno del luogo, ho anche aggiunto dei grani assorbenti cosi che le piantine non soffrano la sete, andrò a trovarle e le bagnerò ogni 4 o 5 giorni

4 Oz of dry bud ready to cure. The best harvest to day and with the best flavor / smell. Really want to keep growing other Ethos cultivars, if this quality is sustained will be growing Ethos every year! Been using the app more and hope to put here the next grow mainly. Will need to learn a way to use custom nutes on grow diaries, for now, Grow with Jane is amazing.

Germinamos según el método del vaso de agua, al que le hemos añadido unas gotas de agua oxigenada

9-3 Everyone got a little light burn, she didn't seem to mind. Light still adjusted. 😱 Growin good! 9-6 Whats growin on! This girl is! 500 ml water, with HP connect.

66g - Candy Cane [F2]  (top section)  75g - Candy Cane [F2]  (top section) 98g - Candy Cane [F2] 107g - Candy Cane [F2] 110g - Candy Cane [F2] 126g- Candy Cane [F2] 128g - Candy Cane [F2] TOTAL: 710g 👍

Topped 4 times and LST.. We will also hst when the buds start getting fat

Last week !!!! Day 91 : 62 days of flowering & 29 days of vegetative I will cut them down tomorrow. Let's harvest !!

Last week we have had a little more growth as they have filling out. I’ve been through and gave them their week 3 defoliation and lollipopping (Blue Gelato 41 & Gorilla Zkittlez on day 21 of Flower, Peyote Cookies & Cinderella 99 on day 22 of Flower). Now it’s about adding weight and packing on the pounds #RecycledSystem #PeyoteCookies #Cinderella99 #BlueGelato41 #GorillaZkittlez #BarneysFarm #HerbiesSeeds #FreeSeeds #GrowTent #MeizhiLED #Meizhi300 #CustomLED #UkGrown #TheUKGrowsToo #CannabisCommunity 🇬🇧

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

i decided its time to start flushing this girls, so for this week only i will give them some enzymes and conditioner and after that just water for the next couple of weeks , lets see how long it will take them to finish 😅😆 so far I’m pretty happy with all of them, nothing to point out all is going as supposed 🙏💚 keeping my Par and VPD the same for now but soon i will start lowering them so that by the ending of this cycle I’l finish around 450/600 Ppfd Week 8 day 50 since flipped to 12/12, I’m flushing and all is going as nomal, starting to fade out and I’m loving the frosty levels so far 😅🤩💚💚💚🙏🙏🙏 No idea why this doesn't allow me to crate a new week but I’ll keep updating here Day 59 F And they are getting closer and closer but stil not ready, checking tricomes every day but all still very clear to my taste 😆 i think one more week at least, let’s see how they roll 🙏💪💚 Day 63 F And they are close but not there yet 😅 provably next couple days , I’ll keep on checking 😆 patience is a virtue, specially in this faze 💚😅 Week 11 day 72 FLower and j just gave them last watering 😅😁 they will have the day to enjoy lights as from today there will b no more of it for this girls 😅 i will do a 48h dark before harvest to increase more the tricomes production and the thc/cbd levels . From there hehehe we know whats coming from there , but lets wait for that time to comment on it 😆😅😁 Growers love you all see you on harvest mode asap hihihi Ppfd- 1400 wUmol/m2s VPD-A 1.51 kPa Girls : Tropicana Poison @sweetseeds - 7X Chocolate Skunk @00seeds - 2X Badazz Cookies OG @seedsman- 3X Lights 2X Lumatek Zeus 465W Compact Pro @ 100% All i Grow is medicine for myself, i do it with love for the love 💚💚💚 Growers love to you all💚💚💚

Germination date 🌱 02/12/2021 Day 80 23/02/2022 Strain 🍁 Barney's Farms Biscotti Mintz (Biscotti x Mintz) THC% • 30% 💡 Mars Hydro FC-E6500 • Power draw 650W + 5% • Max coverage 5 x 5 • LED 3978 pcs high quality chips • Max Yield 2.5g / watt • Noise level 0 DB • Removable Driver & Light bars • Daisy chain • Fast cool system https://marshydroled.co.uk/ 🇬🇧 PROMO CODE • (organicnature420) DISCOUNT https://www.mars-hydro.com/ 🇺🇲 PROMO CODE • (ORG420) DISCOUNT 👍🏻 ⛺ Mars Hydro 150 x 150 x 200cm 📤📥 AC infinity 6inch 💧 10lt dehumidifier ❄️ 3.1kw air con system 💉 Nutrients Dr Forest (dry amendments) Grow Bloom Bloom2 🌱 Growing Media • Soil Notes 📝 This is why I would lower temps after flower stretch. The terpine profile on this last week was minium. Now look at it. Covered in frost. I was heavily debating it but glad I've done it. GD proving its a community to help others out and improve everyone's growing 🌱💚 I would give you a shout out but can't find your name. Top bloke and thankyou 👍🏻💚🌱 Forgot to say the smell coming from this is a heavy mango smell. Very sweet Discount codes in bio for Mars hydro

Day 17 Seedlings 11/02/23 - week 2

Hello. I've finished, cured and put away the Sleepy Joe. It didn't have the strength I was hoping for but it is still nice to smoke. It gets you couch locked and sleepy so before bed stuff. Plant #1 Wet Plant - 875g Dry Buds - 99g Plant #2 Wet plant - 1085g Dry Buds - 114g Plant #3 Wet Plant - 871g Dry Buds - 92g Plant #4 Wet Plant - 807g Dry Buds - 116g Plant #5 Wet plant - 967g Dry Buds - 99g Plant #3 was the strongest and I'm going to reveg it. Thanks for tuning in. Chuck.

Absolutely love the CMH light. :) I can recommend it to everyone. Flowering with 13/11 on/off The scrog was a bit late. Next grow I can use it better. Plants are getting their hairs. No spider mites so far. Haha. I've added 50 watts of DIY led (see previous week). I think I'll add 50w more. My next step for this coming week will be to get some better air movement because my tent is more crowded now. I've sacrificed a plant spot for my good fan in this grow. The scrog net was installed to widen the canopy as much as possible Critical XXL is just a day or 2 ahead of Pineapple chunk in terms of hair development. Size-wise Pineapple chunk started huge but the Critical XXL plants caught up and grew larger. Now, PC is making a comeback racing through the scrog net. The Pineapple Chunk makes really large leaves that cover the canopy. Needless to say I am excited to see these strong stems develop their buds.