Not much to say about this real first grow week’s start. Everything looks ok, steady growth at 40% light. I had to restart the control app a few times, therefore the broken graphs. At night times, the control software tries to attain optimum humidity rather than optimum VPD. That’s why VPD is dropping when the lights are out. CO2 is back to baseline – really wonder what the reliable values are … I found I have to silence the blowers when a timelapse photo is being taken. The shaking you see at the beginning of the grow video should not appear, or to a much less degree, in the future. Day 13 (July 30th) shows good, steady growth. Leaves are a bit spotty, although less then the processed images show. Something to be worried about? I would not currently … All are developing their 3rd nodes now. The controlling Raspberry Pi crashed last night when I tried to access it remotely … ;( – looks like the Connect software is in need of an update. The leaf temperature sensor is now really aimed at lady-to-be nr. 1’s leaves. Nothing to change that I see. I won’t cut the top yet, just watered the outer circle of the big pots slightly to encourage root growth. Day 14: Nice growth. First plant is now at 11 cm, and at 12 cm on day 15. Nothing special to report so far, except for I had to move the internal camera a bit upwards to keep little lady #1 in focus. Day 16 and last day of this week (Aug 2nd): The young ladies are now at about 14 cm tall. Growth looks very compact though. I think the two inside girls will lose their heads next week; I’d still prefer to have one or two more nodes available. Pictures of this day are taken at the end of the plants’ day. Notice their leaves are pointing upwards, which should be a sign that they want more light. I turned the lights up by another 20% for a total of 60 W now. Weather was pretty hot the last days so it wasn’t possible to stay in optimum VPD range but as long as growth is this satisfying I don’t mind. I will water them slightly at their next day start. Outside plant’s soil humidity might still be at around 58% officially, but drying starts at around 40% with this measurement and the sensors are placed quite closely to the stems so outer soil is dryer. I am preparing the plant water with some additions and a frequency imprint suing some Solfeggio and Schumann frequencies.

Vamos, última semana de floración de las Blueberry Cheese de ZambezaSeeds. Octava semana y es que están ya explotadas y maduras estas flores, ya llevan 7 días solo agua y con u. Respectivo lavado de raíces , ya están preparadas para afilar tijeras. Tienen un progreso bastante rápido con 8 semanas voy a poder cosechar que no está nada mal. Gracias a los productos de Agrobeta tendré buenos resultados. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 26 grados y las mínimas no bajan 20, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 45%/55% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.

I did not top this girl, yet. Her top lowers started catching up to the top so I didn’t want to stop her yet lol. But all in all she’s looking healthy.

Mein erster Auto Grow auf dem Balkon. Hatte einen Gratis Samen von 420 fast bud und bin schon richtig gespannt auf diese Pflanze. Habe mich für den Plagron Royalmix entschieden. Ganz unten im Topf habe ich Bad Mix von plagron genommen und als Drenage schicht am Boden habe ich Tongranulat genommen.

Finally we are done, I spent one 10 months on Durban Poison, this is my best sativa strain and im absolutely in love. So next report will be with some Clones of Durban Poison.

Look good!!! She's grown quite a bit this week. Now I'm watering it one day yes and one day no. She's appreciate that. This variety won't say no to food ( at least for the moment that's the feeling I get.) See you in the next week!

7ft tall doing high stress training to bend down. Tent is maxed. All under control day21 frosty oh my!

So, my "Skunk" puppies are always curious to see what I am doing when I am gardening. They are mischievous and would destroy my plants if I didn't have a fence around them. Miss Skunk grew 4 inches this week! And my two new branches grew a lot, too. I took a picture of my hand behind one of the lateral growths. I think it is doing very well. They grew about 1 inch this week. I started nutrients this week.

Day 64 - Starting week 10 and haven’t really had any issues so far. She’s definitely a lengthy girl and hoping the bud development will catch up to her soon. She’s frosty as hell all over and it’s looking like she’s gonna need some water and nutes in the next day or two. Day 65 - Gave the girl 2 gallons of water and nutes today and she’s still chugging along nicely. She’s still budding nicely but not sure how well she’s going to develop them with how lengthy and spacing between everything but I’m sure things will work just fine. Day 66 - Everything is going good with girl still. She’ll have some more room to stretch outward come this weekend when I chop a plant. Other than that just watching her buds frost over and grow. She’s a bit behind with the watering schedule but will still be getting some by Wednesday. Day 67 - All still looking good and buds are still forming and fattening. Definitely getting nice and frosty all over and she’s smelling amazing. She won’t be needing any water tomorrow like my other two but should be ready on Wednesday. Other than that, just keeping the leaves tucked to keep her as opened as possible. Day 68 - I thought she still had some time before giving her water and nutes but she was dry today and gave her 2 gallons. She’s got more room to stretch out now that I put my Cherry Cookies into 72 hours of darkness. Day 69 - Nearing the end of week 10 and everything is going great. She’s good on water for a few days and just took her out for a few updated pics. She’s back in the tent and tucked the leaves some more. She already unbelievably frosty already and can’t wait to see her when the buds really start getting fat. Day 70 - The end of week 10 and all is looking good! Just letting her do her thing and fatten and frost up. She’s definitely still got several weeks left and another couple of days until she needs more water.

Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest

-Esta semana simplemente las he regado un par de veces con un litro y medio cada una. -A una de las GG ya estoy haciéndole el flush final -Empiezan a enfermarse las hojas. Puede ser falta de calcio, potasio, magnesio...no lo se. Les he echado uns buena dosis de potasio y las que están más afectadas les he echado sgua limpia y un poco de potasio. -una de las GG le falta poco para cortar. El resto les quedará poco menos de un mes

We cut her early due to a block off in the autopot system.. but she was frosty as a mofo for being cut way to early and the taste was surprisingly very sweet with a piney/spicy kind off aroma and taste

Another stellar week and the quality inn f these genetics shines through. She's been very thirsty, I'm filling this micro sump about every other day and keeping the nutes right at around 1200 EC with a pH of 5.75... seems like her sweet spot. Nice consistent lime green coloring and a very kerosene candy nose on the stem rub. I think this lady and I are going to go down in a blaze of glory once this grow/dry/cure is done. She has really taken well to LST and hasn't been overly offended by the removal of her larger fan leaves. I see a few pistils starting to emerge at the top bud and on a couple lowers, so it's about to start going down for real!

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Harvested some more buds that were ready, left the rest to mature, because why not 😁 Won't be long for the rest to finish.

10 /11 Weeks Flower¬¬ It's going to be a long flowering phase! 18/01/2024 Performed a mid-day clean using hydrogen peroxide Moved Spicy Temp to the flower tent Noted that the temperatures are a little high Searching for a new, large heatsink for the CropMaster Pro 1000 to resemble the SK600. Considering modifications to the CropMaster's heatsink as it is currently equipped with a 12-watt fan driver, PC fans, and connected to the LED mains power. It still works well, but planning to replace some LEDs once this grow is completed. Fed 200ml of organic random feed to 5 plants Discovered a sprouted seedling beneath the Forgotten Haze and relocated it to the veg tent 19/01/2024 Noted the arrival of the flowers 20/01/2024 Conducted a mid-day photoshoot Started using natural fertilizer as flowering has commenced, applied 150ml for every 5 liters of water 20-01-2024 Recorded a video of the pre-flowering stage, indicating anticipation of a substantial yield 20/01/2024 Performed defoliation before the onset of substantial flowering and cleaned up the lower growth Implemented SCROG (Screen of Green) 22/01/2024 Recorded a video of the pre-flowering stage 23/01/2024 No major changes, just observing more leaves and flowers 23/01/2024 Trimmed off the small undergrowth shoots Missed a few of the lower growth shoots 24/01/2024 Gently stretched the plant within the SCROG setup I'm aware that I need to reposition the pot more to the left to ensure the plants stretch evenly from both sides, but honestly, I'm feeling a bit lazy to do it tonight. I'll tackle it first thing in the morning, I promise! Originally, my plan was to have two plants in the set-up, but it turns out that Freaky Pablo is male. And now for a plant-related joke: Why did the Forgotten Haze Cakes go to therapy? Because she had too many hang-ups! _____________________________________ #IT WAS A RIDDLE YA DIDDLE SEE IT- "I was so stoned & baked last night and a little bit pebbled and tripped over a rake and then I finally had a ''eureka moment'' of what, ''Banana Shrimps are symbolic of! haha, my innocence is now ruined! The question I'm asking is; will I ever grow up? and leave Mushroom Town" _____________________________________. REAL CONCLUSION: The Skunk Of Trutn. Answer: Not for another 3-4 Weeks, then you get to leave Mushroom city. "But it's about Forgotten Haze Cake maturity in to woman hood begins. But she still stays in mushroom land, the land of the Forgotten, she's lost amongst the Haze and Cake strains of the cold damp soil where mushrroms grow. This is a Kind symbolic gesture reminder here, to keep the top soil clean during these colder times. We don't want mould or bud rot. Some hazes like to see 3 days of dropped temps to change her colours like a psychedelic trip during the start of maturity" "Shes always tripping over rakes, I have a little baby rake I use to freshen up her top soils" Allso she was living next door to Freaky Pablo that turned out to be male to where Bananas come from and shes the shrimp. This riddle is told by the perspective of the Plant realising she's a woman going through the stages womanhood" So, in conclusion, my fellow thinkers and growers, let's embrace the absurdity, cherish our innocence, and ponder the enigma of find a rake to trip over and lead us to that illuminating "eureka moment," no matter how stoned, baked, or pebbled we may be. Cheers to growth, both in the mind and the garden! _____________________________________ At mid-day on January 25th, 2024, I accidentally placed the light too close to the plants for a couple of hours, resulting in burnt leaves and pistils. It can't be a calcium deficiency since I have been feeding 6ml of calcium to 5 liters of water. The only difference was the proximity of the light.

Día 66 (05/08) Cerrado por vacaciones Día 67 (06/08) Mi amigo viene a casa a hacer un riego con 1 Litro de H2O pH 6,5 Día 68 (07/08) Cerrado por vacaciones Día 69 (08/08) Vuelta de vacaciones! A ver como están después de 5 días sin verlas... 😱 Riego con 1 litro de H2O pH 6,5 Añado 3 cm de sustrato nuevo porque se ha compactado y se ven las raíces! 😢 Día 70 (09/08) Riego 500 ml H2O pH 6,55 Eliminación de algunas ramas bajas Día 71 (10/08) Riego 500 ml H2O pH 6,55 Sesión de fotos semanal! Día 72 (11/08) Riego con 1 Litro de Té Vegetativo de Lurpe Solutions. Preparación: 24 horas con bomba de aire (oxigenación) con ingredientes: Green Sunrise 8 ml/L + Insect Frass 16 ml/L + Hummus Lombriz 8 ml/L + Melaza 1 ml/L + Kelp Hidrolizado 0,25 g/L Aplicación foliar Kelp hidrolizado de Lurpe Solutions a 0,25 ml/l 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae