Topped the last 2 plants at the start of the week. And by the end did a bit lst with string. Topped dressed all with 3 tsp of gaia green 4-4-4. Not too many photos from this week for the most part just a recovery week. This veg stage has been a 10/10 barley had anything come up and they just bounced back from anything i dis too them (low humidity etc)

¡Estoy muy contento con los resultados de la cosecha de mi Hulkberry! Esta cepa de Royal Queen Seeds ha sido increíblemente resistente y productiva. Utilicé XpertNutrients durante todo el ciclo de cultivo y los resultados fueron notables. Desde la fase de vegetación hasta la floración, las plantas respondieron perfectamente a los nutrientes, mostrando un crecimiento robusto y saludable. Los cogollos están densos, resinosos y con un aroma increíblemente afrutado, con toques de pino y tierra. La calidad de la cosecha ha superado mis expectativas, tanto en cantidad como en calidad. A lo largo del cultivo, XpertNutrients proporcionó una nutrición equilibrada, lo que permitió a la Hulkberry desarrollar su máximo potencial sin signos de deficiencias o excesos de nutrientes. En resumen, si buscas una cepa fácil de manejar y con grandes rendimientos, la Hulkberry de Royal Queen Seeds es una excelente opción, y combinada con XpertNutrients, los resultados serán realmente impresionantes. ¡Totalmente recomenda.

Today plants 2 and 3 are hanging. Hanging them in the tent 👌

Just water as they are very small , light is a 100w Samsung led light for the first week then I will switch to the Zeus 465w Compact pro. I have repotted the plants now the seeds have popped, they are in 2 litre pots now. As soon as the toots hot the bottom of the pots I will put them in my autopots system. I have tried adding a layer of perlite on top of the bAc soil. To try and stop any bugs getting into my soil and also reflect the light back.

Durch mein ADHS sind die Beiträge leider etwas knapp geraten. Aber ich habe es geschafft mit der Medizin eine neue Arbeit zu finden.

Week 11, she’s got a nice structure to her. Ready to pack on the pounds during the later weeks, nothing more to add really. Stay tuned for bud porn I guess lol

Cool strain to grow, if I grew it again it would be in a 5 or 7 gal smart pot. Was hoping the smell woukd be more in your face and it could be better after the cure but as of now it's like a 7/10 what I was hoping for. I had some high humidity at points when I switched tents so maybe that's why. Overall impressive by seedsman I've had good results with their genetics.

Todo correcto por ahora 🤟💚

Works?

7' semaine de floraison 86 jours de vie et 47 jours de flo , elles vont bien la semaine c'est bien passé, ayez elles gonfle . Elles ont reçu encore de l'engrais à 2.2 d'EC (5ml terra Bloom, 1.5ml PK13, 1ml Green sensation) Merci aux Growmies qui me suivent ✌️ Bonne semaine de culture à tous les p'tites ✋️ vertes 🌱🌞🌱

This week started off a little rocky but I’ve gotten it under control. I guess I didn’t feed her enough nutes over the first few weeks and she started showing a calcium deficiency. I just added Cal Mag and that brought back to life. You can tell from the pics that she was fading into a lime green shade. It could’ve also been a nitrogen deficiency as well that was going on. Other than that she’s growing fast and getting bigger every day. But I hope everyone has a wonderful Christmas and Happy New Year! Enjoy the holidays, be safe, and happy growing! ✌️🏾

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

This was the last week I will give them 3 more days to finish Then i will try to dry them for minimal 1 week .

Week 2 transplanted from solo cups to 5 gal pots an 1 into 7 gal grow bag. Plants had good healthy roots in solo cups..plants keep growing vigorously from the start!!!

Day 29 - The lady that I accidentally topped seems to be responding well, her top two nodes are really stretching out and looking good. Still only have one lady clearly showing white hairs at the nodes, but the other lady looks like shes about to pop. I also defoliated them a bit to allow for better light penetration. Day 30 - Did another round of light defoliation and rearranged the LST on both ladies. Still haven't noticed any white hairs on one lady. Day 31 - Rearranged my equipment setup inside the grow tent. Still no white hairs on one lady. Day 33 - More light defoliation and LST on both ladies. Starting to notice some white hairs on the lady yet to begin showing hairs. Both ladies are now in flower.

###Deutscher Text unten The week started well until I noticed the yellow tips on day 24. I had actually ruled out overfertilization as I hadn't fertilized at all. Apparently, however, the nitrogen is released/absorbed irregularly in pre-fertilized soil. The Floragard Grow Mix is apparently very strong and more suitable for photoperiodic plants. I skipped the planned fertilization with Terra Vega accordingly. However, my girls survived the whole thing well and have now entered the flowering phase. On day 29, I gave them their first fertilization with Terra Flores. I'm currently watering one liter every 2 days. I had problems getting the humidity down. It was actually always over 60% in the grow tent. I had to open the tent and set up a dehumidifier in the room, so I get 40-50 LF, but the room also gets quite warm from the dehumidifier and half the house “smells” of the three ladies. Not ideal, the next grow will go outside in June. I have the feeling that I should defoliate the plants to give the buds more light. But I don't want to stress the plant, especially as it's an automatic. .... So far I've only tried to pinch off the large leaves. Maybe you have some advice for me! ###Deutsch: Die Woche begann gut, bis ich die gelben Spitzen am Tag 24 bemerkte. Eine Überdüngung hatte ich eigentlich ausgeschlossen da ich noch gar nicht gedüngt hatte. Anscheinend wird der Stickstoff in vorgedüngter Erde aber unregelmäßig abgegeben/aufgenommen. Der Floragard Grow Mix ist anscheinend doch sehr scharf und eher was für photperiodische Pflanzen. Die geplante Düngung mit Terra Vega habe ich entsprechend ausgelassen. Meine Mädels haben das ganze aber gut überstanden und sind jetzt in die Blütephase übergegangen. Am Tag 29 gab es dann doch eine erste Düngung mit Terra Flores. Ich gieße im Moment einen Liter alle 2 Tage. Hatte Probleme die Luftfeuchtigkeit runterzubekommen. Im Growzelt waren es eigentlich imm über 60%. Musste das Zelt öffnen und im Raum einen Entfeuchter aufstellen, so komme ich auf 40-50 LF, aber der Raum wird auch ziemlich warm durch den Entfeuchter und das halbe Haus "duftet" nach den drei Damen. Nicht optimal, der nächste Grow geht im Juni nach draußen. Ich habe das Gefühl, dass ich die Pflanzen entlauben sollte um den Buds mehr Licht zu geben. Ich will aber die Pflanze nicht stressen, vor allem weil es eine Automatic ist....Habe bis jetzt nur versucht die großen Blätte runterzudrücken. Vielleicht habt ihr ja einen Rat für mich!

Blüte geht voran. Die Raubmilben Amblyseius (Neoseiulus) cucumeris sind schnell da gewesen 🙏 Ich hoffe, sie halten den Thripsbefall bis zum Ende der Blüte unter Kontrolle. Bisher kann ich noch nicht viel zu den Terps sagen, sehr dezent alles. Zudem haben die Pflanzen die Tage zum ersten Mal einzeln einen Fermakor-Hydrolysat als Blütenbooster in sehr gering konzentrierter Dosis erhalten. Danke geht hier nochmal raus @yan420 Ich verspreche mir durch die direkte Verfügbarkeit der Nährstoffe P und K und den Aminosäuren einen metabolismischen Boost. Bin auf die Endergebnisse wie immer sehr gespannt

Nice sweet smell... could say what strain it is because its from sweetseeds sweet auto mix 10 pk of the best.. Definitely going to enjoy this one ... Grow went well and fast 62 days flat...

Beautiful purple

3rd week of Flower done, Shining silver haze is 99days old and honey cream and critical are 68days old. Been hard controlling the front 2 plants definitely taken over light of back 2 plants, starting to support honey cream at front as its coals are getting heavy ans dropping. Will increase nutrients today, 3rd week done and looking good and healthy got the odd brown pistols and hoping it's not mould related