Day 21 Yay, Fiona is a dream of a plant so far. Huge, dark, lush leaves and fast development. She is going to be topped tomorrow as I am 100% sure she will be able to take it like a champ! Day 22 Got up early to top the princess and fed her nutes and calmag afterwards 🤞 Day 23 Fiona took the topping without any issues so far. I am expecting her development to be a bit slowed down but no major complications. Her leaves are as big as my hand and I am pretty sure she will fill up the entire 60x60 tent by the end of next week. Day 25 Yes, well. I don‘t even think Fiona slowed down after topping. I love this plant. Tomorrow, the two Autos will be gone. About time because she has started to stretch in every direction lately. Day 26 Today was a good day for the Princess. Started her with .3 water breakfast. In the afternoon, her roommates moved out and in the evening, I added the humidifier I got her and set up the SCROG. Hope she is as happy as I am.

Blue Paint by 517 Legend Seed Co. Grow diaries won’t let me change the amount of seeds but suffice it to say it was 100% success rate with 6/6 popping overnight while still in their seed soak (HPO Green Supreme and Antimatter @ 1g each into 250ml of rain water, on a heat mat set to 72f). Strong, broad, healthy tap roots. All seeds went into a 1L starter pot with coco, worm castings and perlite, receiving 30ml of unadulterated rain water. All broke the soil two days later on the 10/04/24 all but one appeared healthy, with the exception emerging pallid, could be due to taproot damage during transplant. Another showed signs of mutation or in vivo damage. Both have come good and showed no signs of stunting, standing at the same height and health as their tent sisters. Currently under 150-180 PPFD, 30ml rain water per day with a tent RH of 75-80%. Boomshanka 🤙 Booka @ BestenDank.

All good. The solution seemed very salty to me (1410 ppm), so I diluted it with water to 1300

All good. The solution seemed very salty to me (1410 ppm), so I diluted it with water to 1300

All good. The solution seemed very salty to me (1410 ppm), so I diluted it with water to 1300

I flushed the pots once this week. And use once with enhancer and a very small dose of shrot flowering fertilizer. And I tried very hard to lower the humidity and make the daytime temperature not more than 25 degrees 💐🛸👽💥1

I flushed the pots once this week. And use once with enhancer and a very small dose of shrot flowering fertilizer. And I tried very hard to lower the humidity and make the daytime temperature not more than 25 degrees 💐🛸👽💥1

I flushed the pots once this week. And use once with enhancer and a very small dose of shrot flowering fertilizer. And I tried very hard to lower the humidity and make the daytime temperature not more than 25 degrees 💐🛸👽💥1

I flushed the pots once this week. And use once with enhancer and a very small dose of shrot flowering fertilizer. And I tried very hard to lower the humidity and make the daytime temperature not more than 25 degrees 💐🛸👽💥1

I flushed the pots once this week. And use once with enhancer and a very small dose of shrot flowering fertilizer. And I tried very hard to lower the humidity and make the daytime temperature not more than 25 degrees 💐🛸👽💥1

I flushed the pots once this week. And use once with enhancer and a very small dose of shrot flowering fertilizer. And I tried very hard to lower the humidity and make the daytime temperature not more than 25 degrees 💐🛸👽💥1

I flushed the pots once this week. And use once with enhancer and a very small dose of shrot flowering fertilizer. And I tried very hard to lower the humidity and make the daytime temperature not more than 25 degrees 💐🛸👽💥1

I flushed the pots once this week. And use once with enhancer and a very small dose of shrot flowering fertilizer. And I tried very hard to lower the humidity and make the daytime temperature not more than 25 degrees 💐🛸👽💥1

What a week! the weather has not been very gracious to us. It has been pretty hot all day and humid at night. The majority of the day has the perfect setting but when the sun is at its peak it definitely puts a tool on the girlies. :'( We got a bigger fan to circulate air more but well have to see how that goes... Hoping for rain and some extra clouds soon!

19.04.24 BT#19 Servus ✌️ liebe Gemeinde Die Ladys entwickeln sich sehr gut 👍🏻 Die Lichtquelle ist jetzt ne Evo 4-80 1.5 mit BT Dimmer Entfernung zur Lampe 50cm eine Temperatur von 26° und ner RLF von 50%. Die White Widow hat sich richtig gestreckt ca. 200% und ihre Triebe sind fast alle auf einer höher bin irgendwann nicht mehr mit gekommen denke sie wird schöne Buds tagen. Die Bubblegum XL ihr Strecken hat sich in Grenzen gehalten aber wir auch was abwerfen🤩 Nährstoffe bekommen Sie wie gehabt alle 3 Tage immer im Wechsel = Wasser, 3 Tage nix dann Nährstoffe ,3 Tage nix ,Wasser und so weiter Dosierung Hesi Blüh Complex 6ml/L , Hesi Booster 2ml/L, Hesi Phosphor Plus steigenden von 0,2ml/L auf 3ml/L , Hesi SuperVit. Danke euch fürs vorbeischauen mögen all eure Lady's Gesund und brächtig Wachsen und euch mit schmackhaften Stuff versorgen 😋

19.04.24 BT#19 Servus ✌️ liebe Gemeinde Die Ladys entwickeln sich sehr gut 👍🏻 Die Lichtquelle ist jetzt ne Evo 4-80 1.5 mit BT Dimmer Entfernung zur Lampe 50cm eine Temperatur von 26° und ner RLF von 50%. Die White Widow hat sich richtig gestreckt ca. 200% und ihre Triebe sind fast alle auf einer höher bin irgendwann nicht mehr mit gekommen denke sie wird schöne Buds tagen. Die Bubblegum XL ihr Strecken hat sich in Grenzen gehalten aber wir auch was abwerfen🤩 Nährstoffe bekommen Sie wie gehabt alle 3 Tage immer im Wechsel = Wasser, 3 Tage nix dann Nährstoffe ,3 Tage nix ,Wasser und so weiter Dosierung Hesi Blüh Complex 6ml/L , Hesi Booster 2ml/L, Hesi Phosphor Plus steigenden von 0,2ml/L auf 3ml/L , Hesi SuperVit. Danke euch fürs vorbeischauen mögen all eure Lady's Gesund und brächtig Wachsen und euch mit schmackhaften Stuff versorgen 😋

Week_1 There's nothing great to report about the first week. I had 2 fans running at the beginning, but after 3 days I turned one fan off because it was stressing the right plant a bit too much (leaves drooping). After turning off the fan, the leaves turned back towards the light. Otherwise, I watered as before. I added 1 liter of reverse osmosis water, 2 ml of CalMag and watered each pot with 0.5l divided into 2 intervals. In order to increase the humidity in the tent, I started using the humidifier from day 4. During the day the humidity is 55% and at night it is 68%.

Questa settimana flush!! ..abbiamo fatto girare l'impianto con solo acqua osmotica a ph 6.2, siamo giunti al termine di questo ciclo, tra qualche giorno raccogliamo e attendiamo la fase di seccatura delle cime per gustare finalmente il prodotto e stabilire la qualità il risultato finale!

Cool things off and lower humidity. Entire canopy tilted towards the UV? I would too, I thought that was a blues job. Not that this growth has been focused on UV dosage but again the subtle differences between the side that received UV. Hard to gauge I'd say 15%-20% bigger, fuller cola, thicker trichs too, even small tinges of purple starting to show up on the buds. Initially, I tried to keep the one or two stems that collapsed from weight up using yoyo drawstrings but before long they all started to fall over. It's not even such a bad thing, they all keep each other propped up enough to remain in the high-intensity zone. Like flipping a burger when one side is done, it topples from weight, opening up a new patch to be colonized by floral reproductive organs (buds) survival of the species demands it. Added more blue to the spectrum, will start to reduce daylight hours and temps over the coming weeks. Probably should have used a net but I detest getting it off for the dry, a toppled cola is not so bad. Very nice first-world problem to have if you ask me, blessed. No magnesium, no chlorophyll. Calcium is a vital nutrient, performing a large number of vital roles in plant biology. It’s a crucial component in plant cell walls and helps transport other minerals from one side of cell membranes to the other. It’s also involved in some enzyme functions. It’s what’s known as an immobile nutrient – once the plant has put it to use in one part of its structure, it can’t be relocated. That’s why we see deficiency in young leaves first – even if old leaves have more than enough, the calcium is fixed and can’t travel to where it’s needed. Without enough calcium, those membranes become weak. The cell walls can’t control their permeability, resulting in the leeching of vital nutrients and an eventual waterlogging of affected cells. Mostly we see it as yellowing leaves, especially in newer growth, and fruit that becomes soggy and sodden from too much moisture. Magnesium Magnesium is just as important. It’s a key component in the construction of chlorophyll, arguably the most important of all chemicals inside a plant. Chlorophyll is the powerhouse of the plant. It’s responsible for turning oxygen and water into sugar, fueling all the plant's growth. Without it, there’s no chance of vigorous growth at all Unlike calcium, magnesium is mobile and can be redeployed, so to speak, if the plant becomes deficient. As a result, magnesium deficiencies show in older leaves first, as the plant shifts its dwindling supplies to new growth. Chlorosis is the defining trait of magnesium deficiencies. Leaves turn yellow, from the oldest to the youngest. It makes sense – after all, no magnesium, no chlorophyll. Many Calmag solutions include iron, usually as a chelate. This is because many of the conditions that lead to soils poor in calcium and magnesium can also lead to low levels of iron, so it pays to cover all bases. Iron deficiencies also cause the same sort of chlorosis as magnesium deficiencies, so it sometimes pays to apply both at once. (Chelation is a type of bonding of ions and the molecules to metal ions. It involves the formation or presence of two or more separate coordinate bonds between a polydentate (multiple bonded) ligand and a single central metal atom. These ligands are called chelants, chelators, chelating agents, or sequestering agents. They are usually organic compounds, but this is not a necessity.) Others will include nitrogen, too, presumably because plants need a fairly consistent supply of the stuff, and a deficient plant is likely to spring to life, hungry and ready to grow, once the deficiency is corrected. This is not the case for all brands, so it pays to check – there are plenty of cases where a low or nitrogen fertilizer is preferred. Calcium and magnesium work in concert within the plant, and so for many years it was assumed you had to ensure a good ratio of calcium to magnesium in order to get good growth from your plants. We now know that it’s both simpler and more complicated than that. The ratio of calcium to magnesium in the soil isn’t important, provided there’s enough of both for whatever is growing. However too much calcium can cause a drop in available magnesium. The two get along and readily bind to each other. You may well wind up with a magnesium deficiency if you go too hard with a purely calcium-based amendment. It’s why Cal-mag fertilizers are so useful – they prevent magnesium depletion while addressing both deficiencies at once. Cal-mag is best used regularly. As calcium is non-mobile, it needs to be present in the soil for use all through the growing season. As flowers and fruit develop it’s especially crucial to keep everything well-fed and clicking along. This is especially true if the weather has been erratic – plants draw calcium from the soil in water, so if the weather has alternated from very wet to very dry, it interrupts that uptake. I’d suggest you apply Calmag as a supplement for heavy feeders through the growing season, especially if the weather has been sketchy. Depending on your location, this could be anywhere from early spring through to late fall. Be mindful that plants with low fertilizer requirements won’t benefit from Cal-mag at all, and in fact, can be harmed by too much of it in the soil. You can also use Calmag to treat either magnesium deficiencies or calcium deficiencies as they appear. Both show up as chlorosis, with magnesium depleting the green from old leaves and calcium from the young Coco substrates have a few unique chemical properties that can cause problems if not treated. Chief among these is the high amount of potassium naturally found in coco. This potassium tends to swap places with calcium in nutrient solutions, resulting in too much potassium and not enough calcium in your system. Fortunately, treating with Calmag is a good way to remediate this. The magnesium has its own part to play in the complex chemistry happening at the root level, but together they can work to create a supportive growing environment for your plants. How you apply the Calmag will determine how effective it is, as well as what you’re hoping to achieve. As a preventative measure, you may never see the Calmag do its work. That’s the point – you are preventing the deficiencies from developing. If applied judiciously, it’s an invisible barrier, protecting you from crop failure and poor growth. But if used to treat a diagnosed deficiency, the impact will be felt fastest with foliar application. Magnesium deficiencies will correct quite quickly. While already damaged leaves won’t revive, the grim march of yellow will stop almost immediately. Calcium deficiency is slower to spot, as it’s tied to the development of new tissue, but once you’ve corrected the problem the next wave of leaves or blossoms should be in good health. Soil application takes longer for the plant to process, but it tends to be more enduring. It can take a few days for the minerals to work their way through a large plant, but once they do it’s a long-lasting result. You can always have too much of a good thing, and Cal-Mag is no different. At best, it’s possible to use Cal-mag to treat disorders caused by totally unrelated deficiencies, or even bacteria or fungus. While in these cases the Cal-mag itself isn’t going to cause too many problems, they certainly aren’t going to fix your problem. More critically, both calcium and magnesium can spell trouble in too high concentrations. Too much calcium in the soil can result in the uptake of too much of other minerals and not enough of others, a tricky thing to detect. Magnesium sickness is easier to spot, leaving browning on the tips of new growth.

Cool things off and lower humidity. Entire canopy tilted towards the UV? I would too, I thought that was a blues job. Not that this growth has been focused on UV dosage but again the subtle differences between the side that received UV. Hard to gauge I'd say 15%-20% bigger, fuller cola, thicker trichs too, even small tinges of purple starting to show up on the buds. Initially, I tried to keep the one or two stems that collapsed from weight up using yoyo drawstrings but before long they all started to fall over. It's not even such a bad thing, they all keep each other propped up enough to remain in the high-intensity zone. Like flipping a burger when one side is done, it topples from weight, opening up a new patch to be colonized by floral reproductive organs (buds) survival of the species demands it. Added more blue to the spectrum, will start to reduce daylight hours and temps over the coming weeks. Probably should have used a net but I detest getting it off for the dry, a toppled cola is not so bad. Very nice first-world problem to have if you ask me, blessed. No magnesium, no chlorophyll. Calcium is a vital nutrient, performing a large number of vital roles in plant biology. It’s a crucial component in plant cell walls and helps transport other minerals from one side of cell membranes to the other. It’s also involved in some enzyme functions. It’s what’s known as an immobile nutrient – once the plant has put it to use in one part of its structure, it can’t be relocated. That’s why we see deficiency in young leaves first – even if old leaves have more than enough, the calcium is fixed and can’t travel to where it’s needed. Without enough calcium, those membranes become weak. The cell walls can’t control their permeability, resulting in the leeching of vital nutrients and an eventual waterlogging of affected cells. Mostly we see it as yellowing leaves, especially in newer growth, and fruit that becomes soggy and sodden from too much moisture. Magnesium Magnesium is just as important. It’s a key component in the construction of chlorophyll, arguably the most important of all chemicals inside a plant. Chlorophyll is the powerhouse of the plant. It’s responsible for turning oxygen and water into sugar, fueling all the plant's growth. Without it, there’s no chance of vigorous growth at all Unlike calcium, magnesium is mobile and can be redeployed, so to speak, if the plant becomes deficient. As a result, magnesium deficiencies show in older leaves first, as the plant shifts its dwindling supplies to new growth. Chlorosis is the defining trait of magnesium deficiencies. Leaves turn yellow, from the oldest to the youngest. It makes sense – after all, no magnesium, no chlorophyll. Many Calmag solutions include iron, usually as a chelate. This is because many of the conditions that lead to soils poor in calcium and magnesium can also lead to low levels of iron, so it pays to cover all bases. Iron deficiencies also cause the same sort of chlorosis as magnesium deficiencies, so it sometimes pays to apply both at once. (Chelation is a type of bonding of ions and the molecules to metal ions. It involves the formation or presence of two or more separate coordinate bonds between a polydentate (multiple bonded) ligand and a single central metal atom. These ligands are called chelants, chelators, chelating agents, or sequestering agents. They are usually organic compounds, but this is not a necessity.) Others will include nitrogen, too, presumably because plants need a fairly consistent supply of the stuff, and a deficient plant is likely to spring to life, hungry and ready to grow, once the deficiency is corrected. This is not the case for all brands, so it pays to check – there are plenty of cases where a low or nitrogen fertilizer is preferred. Calcium and magnesium work in concert within the plant, and so for many years it was assumed you had to ensure a good ratio of calcium to magnesium in order to get good growth from your plants. We now know that it’s both simpler and more complicated than that. The ratio of calcium to magnesium in the soil isn’t important, provided there’s enough of both for whatever is growing. However too much calcium can cause a drop in available magnesium. The two get along and readily bind to each other. You may well wind up with a magnesium deficiency if you go too hard with a purely calcium-based amendment. It’s why Cal-mag fertilizers are so useful – they prevent magnesium depletion while addressing both deficiencies at once. Cal-mag is best used regularly. As calcium is non-mobile, it needs to be present in the soil for use all through the growing season. As flowers and fruit develop it’s especially crucial to keep everything well-fed and clicking along. This is especially true if the weather has been erratic – plants draw calcium from the soil in water, so if the weather has alternated from very wet to very dry, it interrupts that uptake. I’d suggest you apply Calmag as a supplement for heavy feeders through the growing season, especially if the weather has been sketchy. Depending on your location, this could be anywhere from early spring through to late fall. Be mindful that plants with low fertilizer requirements won’t benefit from Cal-mag at all, and in fact, can be harmed by too much of it in the soil. You can also use Calmag to treat either magnesium deficiencies or calcium deficiencies as they appear. Both show up as chlorosis, with magnesium depleting the green from old leaves and calcium from the young Coco substrates have a few unique chemical properties that can cause problems if not treated. Chief among these is the high amount of potassium naturally found in coco. This potassium tends to swap places with calcium in nutrient solutions, resulting in too much potassium and not enough calcium in your system. Fortunately, treating with Calmag is a good way to remediate this. The magnesium has its own part to play in the complex chemistry happening at the root level, but together they can work to create a supportive growing environment for your plants. How you apply the Calmag will determine how effective it is, as well as what you’re hoping to achieve. As a preventative measure, you may never see the Calmag do its work. That’s the point – you are preventing the deficiencies from developing. If applied judiciously, it’s an invisible barrier, protecting you from crop failure and poor growth. But if used to treat a diagnosed deficiency, the impact will be felt fastest with foliar application. Magnesium deficiencies will correct quite quickly. While already damaged leaves won’t revive, the grim march of yellow will stop almost immediately. Calcium deficiency is slower to spot, as it’s tied to the development of new tissue, but once you’ve corrected the problem the next wave of leaves or blossoms should be in good health. Soil application takes longer for the plant to process, but it tends to be more enduring. It can take a few days for the minerals to work their way through a large plant, but once they do it’s a long-lasting result. You can always have too much of a good thing, and Cal-Mag is no different. At best, it’s possible to use Cal-mag to treat disorders caused by totally unrelated deficiencies, or even bacteria or fungus. While in these cases the Cal-mag itself isn’t going to cause too many problems, they certainly aren’t going to fix your problem. More critically, both calcium and magnesium can spell trouble in too high concentrations. Too much calcium in the soil can result in the uptake of too much of other minerals and not enough of others, a tricky thing to detect. Magnesium sickness is easier to spot, leaving browning on the tips of new growth.