Only 1 plant is flowering while other 2 still on veg witch is good Day 23 come along and I just start using bloom and topmax and try my best on lst training want to get max yield off each Plant finger crossed 🤞 Day 24 still not flowering for other 2plant witch it very good I'm not rush and I glad they can grow up to max yield Today i have mate around and he couldn't believe they only 24days from seed next week they will be double in size or even bigger will keep pic and video daily on this stage due very fast grow in preflowering Day 25 come along and she grow so fast guys when I wake up I check them I see alot different I feed them with silica on every watering till day 35 (when stop grow in size )this run be come very very big size of autoflower let see guys Day 26 I start bring down grow nuts and add more bloom I feed 1ml silica .5 calmag 2.5 bio grow 2ml bio heaven 2ml acti vera 1 alg amic 1ml bio bloom .5 top max I just use silica every other watering also I feed with the 1.5 L nut everyday Will reduce bio grow and then day 35 I'm going to stop feeling with grow

Ein bisschen gefesselt und entlaubt.

Quick introduction: this is a grow sponsored by 3 sponsors @Tigerfish-organics.com = Barney Kid @Seedstockers.com = Girl Scout Cookies @Dutchpassion.com = Bubba Island Kush And one I picked out myself to do @Creamofthecrop.com = Sticky Zkittles Glue 💚

This harvest does not make honor to this strain. I just growed it with not enough space and light in the room because was the 5th plant and the free seed I wanted to grow anyway. Very Good sativa hybrid with strong cerebral effects! Thanks 420 Fast Buds 🙏🏻

This is my first grow, felt like now is the perfect time to start. 😅 Picture 1 - The plants will have a 24h schedule with both sun and LED light. The solution with the cloth in front of the window is only temporary, I need something thats easy to pull up as soon as the sun comes out. My light is about 16in/37cm away from the plants, please let me know if its too close or too far away from the seedlings. Up until this point I germinated both the seedlings using one of those 'Easy Start' Kits with Microorganisms, I then just transplanted both plants with the soil still attached to them in the final pots. I am using Bio Bizz Light Mix for the soil. In about 1 week I will start adding the fertilizers, I will go with about half of what it says on the nutrient schedule because these are autoflowers. Picture 2 - Day 1 - Seedling number 1 is looking healthy. (I think?) As you can see I put a hygrometer next to it so I can monitor the Humidity and Temperature levels. I currently have a humidifier running next to the plants and humidity levels seem to be good so far. I read online between 65-80% are good at this stage. Picture 3 - Day 1 - Seedling number 1 again. At this stage I only water around the plant and dont soak the whole pot, I read that soaking the whole pot while the plant is this tiny can overwhelme the plants. I also noticed that the leaves look kinda yellow-ish? Please let me know if thats normal. Picture 4 - Day 1 - Seedling number 2. I need help with this one I dont know why but he doesnt look good, from the beginning he was much slower than plant 1 and when he finally popped out he looked like he was dying, he is kind of gaining a little bit of color now again but I dont know if he will make it. If you know whats wrong with him please let me know. I hope he opens his two little leafs soon. I still have a third seed laying around so please let me know if it'd be smarter to just abandone number 2 and germinate a new seed. Thanks for reading this far and I'll update as frequent as possible. Day 1 Issues Update - After taking a look at seedling number 2 again and seeing that after all this time it still didnt show any progress, I noticed that one of the two first leaves is actually cut. I mustve damaged it while inspecting earlier because I, (stupid newbie move), touched it too much or whatever. Now germinating my last seed in hopes that all goes well. Since I dont have anymore 'Easy Start' kits im going to try a different germination method, I will put the seed in a cup of water with a piece of cardboard on top of it overnight (12-15h) and then plant it into the moist soil afterwards. 😄 Picture 5 - Day 2 - Seedling 1 is still doing fine. In the morning the temperatures went up a lot (29 Celsius), due to the sun shining a lot through the window, and the seedling was showing slight signs of heat stress (Leafs going up and small yellow-is tint), I then opened the window and the Temperatures quickly dropped back to normal (20-23 Celsius). Moisture levels seem lower than yesterday and Im not sure why (probably because of the heat and opening the window?), still at a solid 62% tho so Im not too bothered. Picture 6 - Day 2 - Since my last Seedling 2 died I germinated another one, I put it in a glass of water over night (~15h) and then planted it into the soil. Hopefully it'll pop out in the next few days... 💪 Picture 7 - Day 3 - Everything looking good with Seedling 1, I kinda felt like it was sort of streching too much instead of growing its leaves, so I put the light closer to it. I will water again tomorrow, the last time I watered was when I put it in the soil 3 Days ago. Picture 8 - Day 3 - The new Seedling 2 is still germinating and will hopefully pop out of the soil in the next few days. Picture 9 - Day 4 - Seedling 1 still going strong, leaves are praying but I read that that is a good sign. I watered both pots again today with just Ph-water, will add fertilizer in about 3 days for seedling 1. Seedling 2 is still germinating, will post a new picture as soon as it pops out of the soil. 😉 Picture 10 - Day 5 - Seedling 1 looks healthy, but is going kinda slow. Turns out I had the light far too high... 😐 Pulled it as much down as I could now and its already growing better! Main indicator for not enough light was the stretching and the thin leaves. I will probably have to invest into a bigger setup as soon as flowering hits. ✊ Picture 11 - Day 6 - Seedling 1 leaves are getting bigger and the next set is already on the way. Picture 12 - Day 6 - After 4 days germination, seedling 2.1 finally popped out the soil! 👏 Picture 13 - Day 7 - Seedling 1 leaves seem a bit curled up, probably because of the hot sun this morning, Im not too worried tho. Will water with nutrients the first time tomorrow. Picture 14 - Day 7 - Seedling 2.1 looking fine, soil was pretty dry so I watered it a bit with ph water.

It's time to harvest the seedless plants. The pigeons were very disapointed that there were no fem seeds to be had in theses first plants. The seed mothers need another week to reach the 35 day from pollination mark. You can see seeds in a couple of the photos. They're already turning brown. The plants are very hard, full and frosty! They smell like sherbert, and they all look alike. I'm very pleased:) Time to get these cleaned up, chopped down, and hung up to dry!

👍🕉️🙌🖤❤️ Autarchi(A)

She grew 13cm this week. Not bad. She's looking good. Tent is a little bit too overcrowded for her at the moment but in a few days the situation will be better.

Starting week 3 today, with a challenge ahead with this little bad girl! It seems to be a lack of Nitrogen, and I'm pretty afraid of burning the plant. I'm feeding the plant once each two days, with Seaweed Tonic, 150ml with the suggested dilution from the bottle. Now I have also a bottle of Canna Terra Vega, with NPKS 3-0-3-0. Is it a good idea to start feeding the plant, with also this nutrient? The soil is a mixture of 80% organic soil + 20% of coco coir. Could be a lack of nutrients from the soil? What is the best agenda to follow with nutrients? (: Cheers!! UPDATE (17/02 - Day 17): based on the suggestions made by many members, I've tried to gather the best of all and decided to make some moves in an effort to save this plant, and to avoid the same situation to the other 2 plants: #1 - Lifted the LED panel to double of the height, so the distance to the plants went from 50cm to 100cm #2 - This change with the distance from LED panel helped to low down the highest temperature achieved during the day from 27.5°C to 24°C #3 - Since day 15, the plants haven't been watered, in a move to try to dry a little bit the soil, once I was watering every day with something close to 250ml a day. Now I'll return with water in a few days, while I wait for some signals from the plants that they are needing water #4 - Pushed forward the idea to start feeding them this week, and maybe I give just a little bit of seaweed solution to root development when I come back with watering. Hope it works fine!

🍬🍭🌈🍨🍧

Esta semana aplique delta 9 de manera folear, 2 ml por cada planta y un litro de agua, se recuperaron un poco de la defoliación.

144v Lux in tenebris lucet. Aristotle said "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Those who are able to refrain from judgement long enough to genuinely research and weigh the evidence from all sides of a given subject are those most likely to arrive at the truth. Those who instantly resort to knee-jerk ridicule and continue to believe whatever they were first taught are those most easily deceived. Very high light intensity can slow vertical growth. She just doesn't want to grow vertically any longer; once the flower is initiated, that goes right out the window. Apical dominance is shattered; you now have every single stem fighting for survival against each other, with none given particular precedence over another. That is some stretch for a week, explosion. Doesn't matter if they are crowded now; there is space up ahead, and plant perception will fill every inch of available space. The divine intelligence that drives plant growth is far more efficient than any canopy I could make or spread myself. No defoliation. Sometimes you just need to give her what she needs to fill the space herself. All I do is guide the initial framework into the desired outcome, keep everything else flowing and in optimal parameters. Fast-growing leaves to have a lighter green color, sometimes appearing almost yellowish-green, because they haven't had time to produce much chlorophyll yet. New leaves are soft and pale, but they will gradually darken and become a deeper green as they mature and are exposed to light. Every morning, new lime green, with the micros supercharged, may be immobilizing nitrogen in the medium, magnesium was creeping in earlier, so I'll try to hold the line and see what progresses. The ratio of sugar leaves to buds is determined by a combination of hormonal signaling, nutrient availability, and genetics. Sugar levels act as a key signaling molecule, with high sugar availability influencing hormones like auxins and cytokinins to promote bud outgrowth, while nutrient deficiencies can limit development. Specific genes also play a critical role in leaf and bud initiation, expansion, and the overall balance of growth. Buds are like balloons! Need lots of pressure to blow up lots of balloons! Sugar balloons! Plant transpiration and turgor pressure are crucial for bud development because turgor pressure provides the cell expansion needed for growth, while transpiration creates a "pull" that draws water and nutrients up through the plant to fuel this process. High turgor pressure is essential for cells to grow and expand, allowing buds to open and young leaves to unfurl. Transpiration maintains this necessary turgor by driving a continuous flow of water from the soil up to the leaves, where it evaporates. No holding back, this is it, 4-5 weeks of all-out war! What we develop now will be all we have for the final 4-5 weeks. The carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio indicates how much carbon is in a substance relative to its nitrogen, affecting nitrogen availability in soil through microbial activity. A high C:N ratio (like in straw or corn residue) requires soil microbes to use a significant amount of nitrogen for decomposition, temporarily tying it up and making it unavailable to plants. A low C:N ratio results in a more rapid release of nitrogen for plant use. The carbon-to-sulfur C:S ratio in plant residue determines whether soil microbes will immobilize or mineralize sulfur (S) during decomposition. This affects the availability of sulfate SO42, the primary form of S that plants can absorb. Mineralization is the process by which microbes decompose organic matter and release excess nutrients, like sulfate, into the soil in an inorganic, plant-available form. Immobilization is the reverse process, where microbes absorb inorganic sulfate from the soil to meet their own nutritional needs, making it unavailable to plants. Glucose typically uses more oxygen than sucrose in a medium because it can be metabolized more directly, while sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose, which can involve additional energy costs and a slower overall process. However, the efficiency of oxygen use can vary depending on the specific organism and conditions, as some bacteria, for instance, can use sucrose for a growth advantage under certain circumstances by producing exopolysaccharides that are more efficient at oxygen extrusion. Why glucose is generally more oxygen-efficient: •Glucose is a monosaccharide and can be used directly by many organisms in cellular respiration. •It does not require an initial enzymatic step to break it down before entering the metabolic pathway, unlike sucrose. •Due to its direct use, glucose can lead to a faster rate of oxygen consumption and carbon dioxide production in comparison to sucrose under typical aerobic conditions. Why sucrose might seem to use more oxygen in certain contexts: •When sucrose is metabolized, it is first broken down into glucose and fructose. This initial hydrolysis is an extra step that requires enzymes. •The fructose component is metabolized differently from glucose, and its specific metabolic pathway can affect the overall oxygen demand. •Some organisms may have regulatory mechanisms that lead to a higher initial oxygen demand when switching from glucose to sucrose, especially if the organisms have specific metabolic pathways that are optimized for sucrose. •While glucose may be used faster, sucrose might provide a growth advantage under certain oxygen-limited conditions due to the specific metabolic pathways and products it can generate. Seems my initial concept of sucrose was inaccurate. Really need to study up on all of this in the coming months. Take care. 9 To get the closest possible NPK ratio of 1-3-2 in 5 gallons of water: Add 2 tsp of the 7-4-5 Grow fertilizer Add 3 tsp of the 3-12-12 Bloom fertilizer Calcium can interact negatively with phosphorus and sulfur, add your Cal-Mag supplement to the water first if needed.

Week 8 showed strong bud development and a noticeable increase in trichome production. Both plants are now clearly entering the later stages of flowering. ✨ Light intensity stayed around ~1100 PPFD. Environment remained stable at ~24°C and ~50% RH. Both plants continued to be watered every 2–3 days with RO water + CalMag, based on pot weight. 💧 During this week Apricot #2 developed rust-colored / yellow spots on the small leaves near the buds, which suggested a possible nutrient imbalance or early lockout. To be safe, both plants were flushed twice with water + CalMag. After the second flush the issue did not worsen, although the damaged leaves remained visible. Despite this, overall flower development progressed very well. 🌸 Apricot #1 looks very healthy and stable with a compact structure and now produces buds just as thick as #2. Apricot #2 remains the slightly darker phenotype and still shows the previously observed leaf tip droop, but overall development stayed stable after the flush. Trichome coverage increased significantly this week and the smell became noticeably stronger, developing into a sweet, fruity, tropical aroma. The plants are relatively small compared to some previous runs, but the bud quality and resin production look very promising so far. 💪🌿

Hey everyone 😊. The two women will be in the vegi tent for the last time under 6/6 this week, and will come to the flower tent 🤗 next week. Otherwise there is nothing to report this week, except that both are developing really well 😀. Have fun with the update and everything stays healthy 🙏🏻☘️ You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/red-mandarine-f1-fast-version/ Type: Red Mandarine F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Red Poison Auto®️ (SWS39) X Tangie (California Orange x Hybrid Skunk) 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

i was surprised that she was done on 2/15/25 spidermites had completely taken over one bud so i decided to check trichomes and she seemed ready.

Hanging drying time

What a successful experiment! People said you couldn't grow and flower good weed in an Aerogarden so I had to prove them wrong. When I first started this grow experiment I would have been happy with a quality oz of bud. I never imagined pulling more than 2 oz's from 1 gallon of soil and only 45 Watts of light. That's 1.4 grams per watt! Already have a second Aerogarden going. This time it's Bud Bud Bling-Tingz✨ Give it a look!

I am happy and suprised! I wanted to grow some BonChies years before, no it is a cannabis strain,why not! My second Cannabonsai is history now, smells fresh and a little bit like beer haha. Edit: 38g dry cured trimmed, Stick and Stinky. Seems like the Gorillas from FastBuds are always a good choice Thanks to Bionova, Terra Aquatica and of course FastBuds for the seed. You are so cool and friendly