Everything on track . Cut 4 bottom leaves that wer turning yellow. Watering every 2 days right now. Some top leaves are turning yellow. Don't know if I'm under feeding, or something else is wrong. We'll see.

The grow was really easy and without any problems. The brunches were so heavy that the lady got bent to the side a bit. Totally sticky fat buds with a strong and sweet smell. I‘m really looking forward the dried and cured result. Really happy about that strain.

Week 4 has arrived She its more thirst with each passing day. OG Kush hv 8 weeks of flowering probably. Waiting for next days, brazilian summer will be great. Cheers.

Flowers are growing larger with more resin. I am thinking I use CNS17 Ripe next time around instead of bloom. I will lower PH a bit tonight. It is 6.8 with an EC of 1.7.

26/10:Im Struggling a little bit whit temps,i have to open some cms the tent,but if i do it,RH gonna decrease.im compensating by nebulizing and leaving a cup of water inside + humidifier. im preparing water whit nutrients for later. inorder to fix temp issue,before the night i changed setup whit a spudnik i hope i made the right choice. let's see what happen at 19:00! 27/10: increased ph from 5.5 to 6 and increased ppm from 500 to 600.

10 jour de séchage a 18c et 60% humidité pour conservé les arôme. Vraiment pas le yield au quel je m'attendais mais la qualité est la ! Plante très facile a cultiver et très jolie.ses teinte de pourpre , violette et verte lui donne un look assez unique .La couleur rouge est plus présente et vif depuis qu'elles sont sec Les têtes sécher son un peut flufy et la génétique a tendance a faire des foxtailing durant la pousse . Des arôme un peut raisin un peut bais additionner d'un léger terreux. j'aurai préférer un peut plus moufette mais délicieux tout de même.

Today was the day, unfortunately about a week in advance because of an infestation of Mites that reached the buds of all 4 plants left. After reasoning, interrogating AI and watching a video, I had to harvest in advance and I decided to do a washing with H2O2 as per this video explanation of Jorge Cervantes, available at this link (https://youtu.be/S7jE7qzfgQs?si=eC6klOXkWz9eBJO3). I am providing photos and video also of this step I made.

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Bueno como siempre innovando... He aprovechado y he cambiado de agua ,antes de no poner abonos he dejado recirculado 2 días agua , con peróxido de hidrógeno... Para limpiar raíces , y excesos también limpio cubos... La mezcla es de 1ml /litros me han dado carencias , pero es normal porque he dejado la planta sin abono 2 días en pero habré limpiado perfectamente la raíces y preparándola para abono floración..

**** Tue 17 Dec **** 5 weeks from seeding My efforts to keep humidity up seem to be paying off Also bought a small humidifier - will see how well it works I've released all the LST restraints - they have a bit of room to stretch now Annoyed now as I've run out of plug sockets (1 light, 1 inline fan, 2 clip fans, 1 heating mat, 1 humidifier, 1 radiator) Better not need anything else... **** Thu 19 Dec **** Humidifier was installed on Tuesday - they love it at 40-45% - that really was the problem These plants do not like 20% humidity. Also I chucked in a 14W blurple LED which I got for free - every little helps The bigger "red" plant has a few leaves which were burned on the radiator in the small tent - think I'll nip these off The "black" plant on the right is now recovering and really going for it See video **** Sat 21 Dec **** All going remarkably well **** Sun 22 Dec **** Here we are 40 days from seeding, and there isn't much for me to do The humidifier uses about 3 liters every day, so needs refilling once or twice (it takes 2.2L) They are now easily drinking a liter of water each a day - the pots are dry and light when ready for more I'm giving them a small dose of 7-7-7 every other feed - it doesn't seem to be causing problems The fan & filter are sucking in plenty of fresh air and there's no smell at all (if I were to switch it off there would soon be a mighty stink!) So far lots of flowery pistils but no "sugariness" - I'm sure this will come when ready The "Red" plant has always been more vigorous - this one is a bit more spread out horizontally and I've trimmed away leaves that were in the way. While growing faster, a lot more lower leaves have turned yellow on this one so I've trimmed these off. The "Black" plant was always a bit behind, and it did not like low humidity at all (at one point I thought it was done for) But since I got the humidity up this plant has really got its act together - in fact now it's probably heavier than Red. This one has had virtually no LST and I've only trimmed a very few lower leaves. At this point I'm thinking the best thing to do in this box (70 x 70 cm) would be to grow 4 of the same in 11L pots Would really fill the space very quickly Anyway lets see how this first grow works out **** Tue 24 Dec **** Red on the left is starting to build a bud structure And on top of the main cola there are signs of stickiness and some tiny trichomes Must sort out a better camera as my phone is rubbish Black on the right has taken off - she's taller than Red now She may be slower but I think there'll be a bigger yield off this one If I leave the tent door open for a few minutes I can smell them from 10 feet away. Without the filter I would have a problem That's the end of week 6 Compare the start and end of this week and there's been a fair bit of growth going on

12.01.2026 Day 95 These ladies are coming along slowly due to low temp. Sometimes dropping to 1 degree C at night. The 3 clones are from bud budda cheese 2 in soil and 1 in hydro with heating elenent to keep the water from freezing. I put the mother plant into flowering today and give her veg nutes still. I have put a heater into the flowering tent set to 16 C. The badass og cheese is about 4 weeks into flower. The blue cheese from expert seeds is recovering.

Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

Topping This Week!

Sie fangen so langsam an sich etwas mehr zu strecken nachdem ich sie zu den Seiten trainiert habe. Das netzt wartet schon die zu richten. Läuft super bisher. 🥦 Bin gespannt auf die Blüte

Diese Woche werde ich sie in die Blüte schicken 💚🍃hat sich gut entwickelt 👌 und schönen Triebe gebildet! 🍃

Watered her,now just observing,she is showing sex..

It is day 27 and Most plants starting to flower so they are getting a mix of grow nutes and bloom nutes All looking really healthy and seem to be thriving and certainly drinking a lot more . Some side branches have been strategically trained to try and make most of space and improve yield Day 28 given water will continue with grow and bloom nutes as still getting vertical growth which I am glad to see 👌