Bruce Banner Autoflower

I'm averaging 8oz with compact Autoflowers. I've been using the same set up, environment and nutes since 1997. Now that I have 5 grows with Autoflowers (all same type/size), I crush the yields when compared to other grows using the same breeder/strain/technique. If I am wrong here with my limited experience, will someone tell me to put my scissors down?!

I always wait to see which branches are the strongest, I ended up with the bottom branches being the fattest several times. I decide that before stretch normally.. sometimes if I can't see it yet, then after stretch.

Depends on what you are trying to achieve, six or eight colas. However, I always remove the lowest 2 branches as they never seem to develop as well as the other branches. Not sure why you are removing blades from the leaves,- just remember,- less leaves = less energy being made = less growth. It really is that simple! Or to put it another way......... Maximum amount of healthy green leaves = maximum amount of energy production = maximum growth. Anyway, in a week or so those branches will be growing out from underneath those leaves anyhow, making blade/leaf removal pointless. Those branches were relying on those very leaves to make the energy that they need to be able to grow. The small baby leaves on the branches can in no way make as much energy as just one nice big "fan" leaf. The branches will now take a bit longer to grow out from underneath those leaves due to the reduction in energy making potential that the blade removal has caused. Partial removal of plant leaves can also cause stresses (metabolic shock) that may induce negative outcomes, so I would cease using this "technique" of plant manipulation. Apparently, removing an entire leaf is less stressful to the plant than only removing parts of the leaf, but I do advocate against leaf removal for no good reason. Defoliation is really the most misunderstood principle amongst the growing community. It seems most people do it "just because", without ever thinking of what it causes and what it does and does not achieve, they just blindly follow whatever some "theory" has been distributed on the internet, right or wrong, but mostly "bro science". Reasons such as "to channel energy into the buds" don't hold water, because without the leaves there is no energy being made to "channel". Besides, a plant can not channel/divert/redirect energy, this would indicate that plants are capable of decision making, which they are clearly not capable of, as they are obviously brainless. All energy is distributed evenly throughout the entire plant, to wherever there is growth or repairs occurring. Defoliation is generally unnecessary, unless the plants are extremely crowded. Removing healthy green leaves then forcing your plant to grow new healthy green leaves seems rather like a waste of time and energy for the plant. Besides, if your plant would not need those leaves, it would not grow them in the first place! Cannabis has evolved over Millenia to become its most productive and most efficient. Getting rid of perfectly healthy, green, energy producing leaves for no good reason, is not part of that process. Here endeth my ravings! Regards, Organoman.

Its not a straight PPM per week. All plants will be different and grow differently with different needs even the same strain's. If a plant is a fast grower it might need an additional 100 ppm by week 5 compared to the slow grower. If you go by a set number in stone you will most likely run into either deficiencies or toxicities. You need to adjust according to how much she eats/drinks, Check the PPM's and adjust your add-backs or water changes( should be once a week in flower) according to if the ppm reading is higher or lower from the previous adjustment. Love the active spreadsheet. Keeping the same feed chart ratio is key to a healthy plant that has all of her needs. Another thing to consider is when you change your temp/humidity the plants needs for PPM's will be also changed. When a plant drinks it does not choose what to "Eat" but more takes in whatever comes with the water. The water eventually makes it to the leaves and evaporates(transpiration) with a higher temp and lower humidity the plant will transpire more which in turn she will drink more. By drinking more she is taking up more nutrients and if she is unable to process the extra nutrients she will start to get a toxicity. Being unable to process the nutrients they get built up in the plant and in the bucket of water which will make your PPM's go up.

Looks good to me! I’m an American than runs EC not ppm, but you will see the results or issue in about 2 weeks

No hay de que preocuparse, puede ser por genética de la planta, puede ser causado por estrés o desequilibrio de PH. Que buen trabajo estas haciendo! Bendiciones

Generally a genetic thing, but can also be a phosphorous deficiency, but after seeing how many things you are feeding, I would not say it is a deficiency of any sort! Either way, it won't affect yields, growth rates or potency.

if it is mostly where a stem is exposed to light, could be LED... nothing you can do here can also be a deficiency in P deficiency if only the petioles.. can also be a Sulfur deficiency if long streaks in stems. and on top of all that could be locked out by something elses or pH... so, use what info you have and eliminate possibilities. Magnesium Sulfate is an option to add S, but need to consider how much Mg you already provide too. It's worth while in these cases to know what you feed per molecule in PPM. A little spreadsheet can haelp autocalculate such things as you change your dosage fields. manic botanix also has an online calculator. if a formula doesn't work well for 80-95% of strains, it's not a good formual, imho. only minor adjustments should ever be necessary except for oddball plants that are fairly rare in the first 100+ plants i've grown. Not sure if i had one that required anything drastically different at all.

I’m in hydro and was interested in some insight to a common ph issue found using various nutes. If you ph goes up great, I was looking for some people who experience the same, and can provide some logic and science. If we can do that, please pass along an answer.

Ph rises when adding Si, but curious if that tails off over time. This question is independent of rising ph in general hydro chemistry.

I’ve never had a drift down, only up…

Don't do it, it is BS that only lives because of the internat. It is bro science!

Check this diary last week i have a screenshot of the results of a "darkness before harvest baked with lab result video": growdiaries.com/diaries/27422-12-12-from-seed-chupa-bud link to the original video top left of the screenshot but you need a you tube account to access it. It Slightly increase potency but significantly reduce terpene concentration i Personnaly prefer more terpene over 1-2% more thc

I actually went the opposite way and did 18/6 for a photoperiod the last week on my last harvest. More light = More energy = Increase in secondary metabolites (more trichome and terpene production). That's the theory anyways. Bud turned out great, better than I expected for my environmental issues, but without clones and multiple tests, hard to know if it did anything positive or negative.