Bruce Banner Autoflower

The sooner you top the sooner they recover. If it's a healthy plant I try to top above the second node around day 10 or 12. I dont know why people top at higher nodes. You get too many branches trying to fight for space. I usually end up with around 30 tops from topping once.

hummm..... I want to say no and get a much yield as possible. but if your space is limited it might be a wise idea. confirm the specs on the strain your growing. if it bulks up a lot or stretches a bunch might be a good idea. Good Luck!

Ummm Chow13 - raising flora micro will add significant amounts of N.. if you’re trying to dial back N with flora trio you dial back the micro. Micro is 5-0-1 Gro is 2-1-6 Bloom is 0-5-4 I guess it’s just a sensitive auto.. it does appear to be N tox but I wouldn’t react to significantly. Personally in this scenario with hydro, I would add 10-15% or so of fresh pHd water to drop that EC a bit.. Looks very good overall otherwise tho.

Yeah, none of the charts are terribly accurate, but then they're sort of generalized and not plant/strain specific. I was always comfy somewhere about 50% or so of the medium or light schedules depending. I could never feed any of the autos I ran more than 1.2EC, and usually closer to .9 to 1EC. These days I've moved to GH MaxiGro/MaxiBloom and use between 5-7g per feeding and it's much easier and less hassle.

To add onto what Chow_13 said as I agree with most of what they are saying. The VPD chart integration would be key if the environment was swaying a lot in temps or RH, but if its not I don't think its going to make all that big of difference. I would also think it would be good to have it broken down into 3 or 2 parts per week. for small and large or small regular and large sized plants in your space. this would help account for the variance in feeding amounts. Or something that would be a live chart and you would input your res/runoff numbers and it would suggest what to do. if you wanted this to be used as a standalone reference for all growers vs yourself. Not everyone is going to have their environment nailed in as tight as you are so the feeding guides will need to be different I think. Could also note if you have a regular sized plant but a super hot room you would want to use the lower or smaller feeding guides as the plant will transpiration more giving its environment. An Ideal chart would be one that you could enter in your temps, RH, light ppfd and other variables and it pumps out data on your optimal feeding schedule. but given the work involved in that I think what you got going on right now is banging. I don't know how much more you can add to it other then feeding levels. It looks fantastic and as any grower will say you cant rely on a feed chart alone, need to listen to your plant and be flexible then adjust to what its needs are and what its showing you. The user @nobodybuds like to calculate his feedings down to the T in elemental values vs compounds. Given that Nitrogen is calculated as its single element in fertilizer ratios and Phosphorous and Potassium are calculated as their compounds based on how they used to measure things with ash. 4-4-4 is not 4-4-4 in elements. I feel if you reached out to them in DM they might be able to help you tweak this into something truly wonderful. They are like minded from my small experience with them. But honestly its already a fully functional working model to me. Good Luck!

I also have purpleing on my Blue Cindy plant I'm growing out right now, and next to it in the same tent I have a Maltezerz with no colouring on it, they are by the same breeder, G13 Labs. I feels its all about the genetics and that some lights will express this trait more. I think that LEDS be them full spectrum have spikes in the blue/red range and this is what causes the streaks to be more evident on indoor grows, I would not be surprised if this is also linked to light intensity and how close the diodes are to the plants. I don't have any stains that I have grown indoors and outdoors to fully test this out but I would not be surprised if this is part of the case. I view it sort of like how some tomatoes will blush blue/purple or more red/pink if they are exposed to full sun on that side of the fruit. I notice apples do the same thing but its tends to be deep reds or pinks that get expressed on the sun kissed portion vs purples. Given how locked in you have things I do not think this is at all any PH stress or imbalance in nutrients. I don't know what bearings internally tend to make the plant express this. Both the ones I'm growing are Sativa dominate but the blue cindy is growing more like a Indica phenotype so who knows. I have heard that strains that are known to go purple or have fruity sents in its lineage are more likely for this. but its not scientific in any way. just anecdotal. Over all it looks to be healthy and I would not put much thought into the whys. This will follow though into the petioles for my plants that I have noticed this on. I also let my plants get quite chilly at night down to 16c and up to 28c in the day. this maybe another factor. Good Luck!

Kinda light at 250 ppm for 6 weeks but I see u went through a stage of toxicity so it's understandable cus u have to reintroduce the nutes at low ppm so that's about right. Next feeding try to reach 450-500 ppm. They look beautiful and good luck 👍

this link goes though a bit of that. I'm not overly familiar with using that line but I feel this may help shed some light onto your situation. https://www.rollitup.org/t/how-much-armor-si.982594/

Hey there Hydronaut, before you chop too soon , just make sure you have absolutely no clears left , any clears and you're going to sacrifice potency. By that time you should be coasting towards the quick end of the breeder's advertised lifecycle. my best guess is you had just the right temperature for the plant to do it's job, so it worked out. you're not really allowed to complain if you go quicker than the breeder though 😅 hope this helps ! 🚀

I do it with my mirror less camera. It does good but its worth it to buy a pocket microscope. Just a time save. You don't have to take the picture get it of the camera and zoom in close to see the tricomes. I used my macro lens for my past 2 grows. Finally spent the 30 for the microscope to save time.

If it makes you feel good, go nuts, do it. if you trying to cut time skip it. It stresses the plant and stress can cause increased trichomes from my understanding but how much can form in two days without light is beyond me. Good Luck!