One of the plants had some nutrient burn so I tried to flush her with plain water. I dont give her nutrients till she is good. The problem is that she got it from a fertilized soil layer which I put on the bottom of the pot. Sooo hopefully she is recovering. I'm scared that the other plant has also enough nutrients so this week I dont feed her at all. Lets see how she does next week. Buds are doing well on plant 1. Plant 2 is a little bit behind.

88 dias en el proyecto B han avanzado mucho en la floracion, 3ra semana de floracion y empiezan a engordar la mas atrasada es la 3551 creo que su ciclo de floracion sera el mas largo , ha cogido mucha altura mostrando el toque del cruze con variedad skunk ya que su predominancia es sativa

Aufeinmal schöne Farbe Entwicklung und ausgeprägte buds

Hey all! Welcome to the first week of veg. She is doing great! I fed her on Monday (Jan 6th) with 1/16th tsp of seaweed extract by Green Rush Nutrients mixed in with dechlorinated 250ml tap water. The solution was set at 6.1pH. I fed her again with the same quantity and pH on Wednesday (Jan 8th). I have my humidifier on throughout at the lowest settings. I need to buy a hygrometer lol. Anyway, I fed her with 1/16th tsp of seaweed extract and 1/2 tsp of Green Rush Grow mixed in with 500ml of dechlorinated tap water. Her mommy (my wife) fed her this time on Saturday night (Jan 11th). The light intensity is now set to 100% and its still hanging 18 inches from the plant. This week, I will make sure to take daily pictures. Happy growing!

Last week really started to PACK on the buds. Really taking off. Just measured the buds to see the week growth. They are all right at 1 1/2" ACROSS. Not vertically. So lets see what the week ends up being. Any guesses? Put em in comments. Ok that's it. No more nutes. She got her last feeding today. Tomorrow I turn her to ph water only and 12/12 hours down from 24 hrs light. 10 days to flush then harvest next Saturday. So it looks as if I may be able to combine my 10 days of flush and my 3 days of darkness by just switching from 24/7 light to a 12/12 schedule. She reacted and pushed out more trichomes in only one night. Interesting Ok so end of week 8 (I know it says 7 but its 8. The germination week counts as week one.) Nothing but 12/12 and a flushing. Will take her next week. Thinking to give her the full 7 days and chop her Saturday. Oh btw the buds are 2 1/4" across now. 3/4 of an inch in a week!

Gorilla Zkittlez 😃 Hunrig Gesund, und stressfrei 😃 endlich läuft es und der anfängliche Kopffick ist etwas in vergessenheiteraten wenn ich täglich meine Babys so sehe :slight_smile: habe diese Woche mit der Halbenration gestarte. DOch musste bemerken dass sie etwas mehr gebraucht haben eine der vier hatte ein kleinen Tick verdrehtes Blätterwerk was nun aber am ende der Woche so gut wie verflogen ist es wurde 2 mal gegossen 1 mal mit der Halben Portion des Hesi chemas und in der Mitte der Woche nochmal mit voller Dosis :slight_smile: die blätter Wachsen nun wieder gleichmäßig ohne wellen zu schlagen :slight_smile: getopt habe ich diese Woche noch nicht da ich das gefühl hatte ein wenig schonzeit würde Ihnen noch gut tun

25-10-20 Se cambia la solución y se realiza un lavado de raíces. Para bajar la conductividad de las raíces de 2.05 a 0.2 ms para que la solución nueva sea más efectiva. Se corrige el PH de 7.8 a 5.6. La solución tiene 2.6 ms y 5.6 PH. Se añade una pastilla de CO2. 25-10-20 (2 horas más tarde) Se corrige el PH 6 a 5.6 Conductividad 1.9 ms con los nutrientes ya. 26-10-20 Se corrige el PH 5.8 a 5.6 Conductividad 1.95 ms. 27-10-20 Se corrige el PH 5.9 a 5.6 Conductividad 2.00 ms. 28-10-20 Se corrige el PH 6.00 a 5.6 Conductividad 2.03 ms. 29-10-20 Se corrige el PH 6.00 a 5.6 Conductividad 2.10 ms. 30-10-20 Se corrige el PH 6.00 a 5.6 Conductividad 2.14 ms. 31-10-20 Se corrige el PH 6.00 a 5.6 Conductividad 2.20 ms.

8/21, 8/22 TOASTED TOFFY WAS TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR ON THE 22nd. It's been a few days of rainy dreary weather. This morning I went over and did some MORE defoliation on the toasted toffy trying to get all infected leaves off. I then used the rest of the k bicarb on the gmo in the middle. I haven't seen hardly any pm. So that seems to be working. However I don't want septoria to spread through my garden either. Hopfully the plant doctor will take care of the problem. If not I'll get something different. I can make a diy Dr. Zymes or I could just go to the store and buy something specific like trichodermia. The weather has been a fungus nirvana. The conditions couldn't have been anymore perfect for mold development. I'm super impressed with the k bicarb treating the pm. I took tons of pictures yesterday but I've been sick and couldn't upload them. I still need to sanitize and put my supports up. I'll keep this updated with what I'm doing. UPDATE: AFTER UNCKES FUNERAL I WATERED THE SHERB PIE THAT I DIDNT LAST TIME AND THEN I FED. I DIDNT FEED THE TOASTED TOFFY DUE TO IT BEING TREATED WITH PLANT DOCTOR. EVERYTHING GOT A QRT THE 50GAL GOT MORE. TWO GALLONS TOTAL USED. I NOTÌCED SOME SLIGHT PM ON THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE. IT WOULD BE TIME TO TREAT AGAIN ANYWAY. I PLAN ON WATERING TOMORROW AND TREATING THIS PLANT AGAIN. IM HESITANT TO UsE PLANT DOCTOR (do to feeding tonight) RIGHT OFF SO ILL PROBABLY USE YHE K BICARD. IT WORKS GOOD. I SHOULDNT HAVE FED THAT PLANT SO I COULD APPLY THE PLANT DOCTOR INSTEAD. THAT SEEMS TO BE WORKING REALLY WELL. LAST TIME I USED IT WAS ON FUSARIUM AND THATS JUST A LOSING BATTLE. DID A QIICK VIDEO ILL UPLOAD TOMORROW. 8/23 I HAD A CRISIS SITUATION AND I FUCKED UP THE DIARY. I THINK I JUST DIDN'T RECORD WHAT I DID ON THIS DAY. 8/24 I checked the bags and they were heavy. I watered the sherb pie today as it missed the last watering. Everything but the toasted toffy got fed yesterday. I noticed some slight pm on the middle GMO that I've been treating with k bicarb. Just a couple leaves. Looks like a couple spots I missed. I was going to apply it again but I dodnt have time. I'll be back over soon and I'll treat it and do the defoliation needed. Maybe I'll even sanitize and get support up. Since I fed yesterday I don't want to use the plant doctor for a few more days. I'm thinking of treating everything with it. I need to read and see when the next application for toasted toffy is due. Things are really starting to flower. Once I get the work done I may add beastie bloom to my nute line up. I think I'll do another k-bicarb app on the plant with pm. It's doing a good job. Since the l bicarb I don't see any pm. I should've held off feeding it so I could've used plant doctor. I'm monitoring toasted toffy and if it keeps working good I'll treat everything preventatively. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11:30 BECAUSE IT HAD CLIMBED INTO THE UPPER 80'S. AS I SUSPECTED THE PLANTS NEEDED WATER. THEY COULDVE WAITED UNTIL TONIGHT BUT UNFORTUNATELY I HAvE TO DO THINGS WHEN IM ABLE TOO. EVERYTHING GOT A GALLON EXCEPT THE GMO IN THE MIDDLE IN THE 30, THAT GOT 1.5. SHERB PIE GOT IT YESTERDAY AND ISNT FLOWERING AS VIGEROUS SO IT USES LESS WATER. BEFORE WATERING I WENT THROUGH THE ENTIRE GARDEN AND DEFOLIATED WHAT NEEDED TO BE DEFOLIATED. I HAVE A FEW SMALL LIMBS I SHOULD PRUNE BUT THAT STUFF MAKES GOOD HASH MATERIAL AND ACTUALLY ADDS UP. I NOTICED A LITTLE BIT OF PM ON THE GMO I TREATED. Just a couple spots on a couple leaves and I removed them. I MIXED UP K BICARB AND ILL APPLY IN THE MORNING. I WANTED TO USE PLANT DOCTOR BUT SEEING THAT I FED ILL WAIT. ID LIKE TO GIVE THEM ALL PLANT DOCTOR AS A PREVENTATIVE. SUPPOSABLY IT STIMULATES AN IMMUNE RESPONSE WITHIN THE PLANT WHICH FIGHTS THE PATHOGENS THEN LEAVES POTASSIUM AND PHOSPHORUS BEHIND AFTER 4 DAYS FOR THE PLANT TO USE. I THINK ITS GETTING CLOSE TO TREATING THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN. ILL HAVE TO LOOK. I TOOK A VIDEO BUT ILL HAVE TO UPLOAD IT it. 8/25 I know the diary is fucked up. But I know I watered yesterday. Except the sherb pie. I didn't check the weight bit did a bunch of defoliation. I made another half gallon of k bicarb with a drop of dawn and sprayed all the gmos. I only saw a COUPLE spots with pm on them and I removed them. Still though I wanted to make sure it doesn't get out of control. I should've checked the weight of the sherb pie but I'm sure it's fine.. I took a video but I can't upload it yet. WENT BACK OVER AROUND TWO. IT WAS A BLISTERING HOT DAY IN THE 80'S. THE BAGS WERE DRY. THEY HAD A LITTLE WRIGHT TO THEM AND MOST SOME LEAVES WERE PRAYING. SOME WERE STARTING TO DROOP THOUGH. I WATERED EVERYTHING A GALLON EXCEPT THE SHERB PIE I GOT THIS MORNING. I gave the gmo in the 30 1.5. THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE COULDVE WAITED UNTIL MORNING BUT AT LEAST I CAN KEEP TRACK OF IT EASIER THIS. MAYBE I SHOULD GIVE THE 50 MORE WATER AT A TIME. IM GETTING YELLOW LEAVES. I THINK ITS PROBABKY SENESCENCE. ITS ABOUT THE SAME TIME EVERY YEAR I START LOSING SOME LEAVES. IT SEEMS TO BE JUST THE SHERB PIE AND THE BIG ONE IN THE 50. THAT PLANT HAS QUARTER SIZE BUDS ON IT THOUGH. ITS AMAZIBG HOW MUCH THE WATER INTAKE CHANGES WHEN ITS 60 OR UPPER 50S WITH HIGH HUMIDITY TO WHEN ITS IN THE 80S ALMOST 90. I HOPE IM NOT WATERING TO OFTEN. ITS BEEN COLD AT NIGHT. IN THE 50S. THE EVENT HORIZON HAS TURNED A NICE PURPLE ON MANY LEAVES. THE GMO'S AND SHERB PIE ALSO ARE TURNING PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. I SAW WHAT LOOKED LIKE SEPTORIA SPOTS CRAWLING UP KY EVENT HORIZON IN THE BACK. IN GOING TO TREAT IT WITH PLANT DOCTOR TOMORROW. 8/26 Rainy day. I noticed some septoria on the toasted toffy climbing a bottom branch. But it is time to reapply plant doctor. I saw a couple spots on the event horizon and I treated it today with 1/4 gallon of 2tsp per gallon plant doctor. I sprayed the leaves then I used the rest on the soil. The k bicarb is still keeping any pm at bay. I haven't seen a spot. I hope the plant doctor helps the event hotlrizon. I'm not even sure if it has it but I want to be cautious. I'm thinking of treating them all with plant doctor. I'm also going to use beastie bloom on some of the more advanced plants. I wasn't expecting it to rain but it wasn't for at least a couple hours after I sprayed. I ran another support line across the cage. I need to lst both event horizons and defoliate the sherb pie. It's weird but it seems like EVERY day I go over the flowers are bigger! I see birds darting out when I approach. Maybe that's why i haven't been finding pillars. I found ONE hairy one this week trying to escape to the soil on a string. I got him though. We'll see how it goes. If not I have other options for treatments if needed. That plant in the 10 is HUGE. I'm suprised it got that big in 10gals! Trying to upload videos but they are LONG so I don't know if they

She is experiencing a general yellowing all over. I contacted Advanced Nutrients support and they consulted me to increase the feeding. Let’s hope that she recovers fast. On the other hand, she keeps growing buds. Maybe a little stunned. That’s why I am waiting another 2 days for lollipoping.

Harvest time!

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis Pour la germination j'utilise la technique du sopalin Pour faire germer vos graines dans du sopalin, vous aurez besoin : Un Tupperware avec couvercle Du Sopalin, ou autre quel papier de cuisine qui soit épais et qui retienne l’eau Un verre d’eau Si c’est l’hiver, vous placerez le Tupperware près d’une Box ou d’un Modem pour donner un peu de chaleur Étapes de la germination: faire germer vos graines de cannabis dans du sopalin La première chose à faire est de tapisser le fond du Tupperware avec du sopalin, 2-3 feuilles suffiront. Si vous ne mettez qu’une feuille, elle captera peu d’eau et pourra sécher, vous mettrez donc plus de feuilles que pas assez. Une fois les feuilles placées, versez l’eau du verre dessus, mais pas trop, juste de quoi imbiber toute la surface couverte par les feuilles. Vous aurez ainsi l’eau suffisante pour faire germer les graines sans avoir besoin d’essorer la feuille de papier. Une fois les feuilles humidifiées, mettez vos graines par-dessus, et recouvrez le tout avec une autre couche de quelques serviettes. Une fois en place, humidifiez cette nouvelle couche. faire germer vos graines de cannabis dans du sopalin Lorsque vous graines seront placées entre les 2 couvertures de feuilles, fermez le Tupperware hermétiquement pour que l’eau reste bien dedans et que l’ensemble ne sèche pas malgré la chaleur. Si vous êtes en hiver lorsque vous mettrez vos graines à germer, ou que les températures sont inférieures à 20°C, vous placerez le Tupperware sur votre Box ou modem jusqu’à germination, mais toujours en évitant le contact avec la lumière. Si vous êtes dans une zone au climat tempéré ou chaud, vous n’aurez qu’à placer le récipient avec les graines à l’ombre dans une armoire ou une caisse de rangement. Toutes les 24h, vous devrez vérifier l’état d’avancement de la germination. Si quelques-unes sont sorties mais pas d’autres, prenez celles qui ont germé pour les planter, laissez les autres dans le Tupperware et vérifier de nouveau le lendemain.

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

I transferred it to a half-gallon pot and I mixed the organic fertilizer with the soil.

Let the girls do their thing for the most part this last week. Started to stack up real nice, started to notice white pistils coming in. After 2-3 days there were more popping up and some beginning to flush to orange. Decided to LST and defol one last time, watered without any nutes. Today marks week 5 with the ladies, and I will officially say they are ending their veg cycle and transitioning into flower. Cranked the fans up tonight to circulate more air, tapering humidity down. Been pretty easy going so far

Casey's Rollex OG grew well. She finished in 7 weeks of flowering. Which was super fast. I fid run a little longer as it never looked ripe then, but started fox tailing as well. So it was a confusing finish the bud has a good citrus and earthy aroma. Really frosty. I have a feeling this will be a strong couch lock experience once done. Thanks again Spider Farmer, and DutchFem Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. Thank you Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Welcome to my Ðivine ØĠ Ķush diary. In this diary: Seeds: sponsored by Ðivine Șeeds Media: Promix HP Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients, Diablo Nutrients. Light and Weather: Şun☀️and Mother Earth.🌎 ___________________________ Feeding: Wed 17Jul: 8L nutrients pH'd 6.5 Thu 18Jul: 8L water not pH'd Fri 19Jul: 11L water not pH'd Sat 20Jul: 4L nutrients pH'd 6.5 and 6L water not pH'd Sun 21Jul: 9L water not pH'd Mon 22Jul: 10L water not pH'd *please note that most water only feedings are 2L at the time throughout the day in bottom saucer* ___________________________ What a beautiful summer that we're having, my Ðivine Ladies are just about to start flowering and i am having a hard time to keep up with their feedings and i might need to sprinkle some Gaia Green Bloom on them to keep up with the water only feedings🤔 ______________________________ Ķush Kush kept falling on her sister Øpium, Tuesday evening got missed by thunderstorm and only got the wind tail of it and Wednesday was windy and them both are like Sails in the wind and had to optimize my anti-tilting device on both😳😂 ______________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated!👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨

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🌱 Day 50 - First Day of Week 8 🌱 Hello, Grow Friends! My plant is doing well, and it’s amazing to see visible progress every few hours. 🌱✨ The buds are in full throttle, and I feel like the plant is now needing more water as the pots are drying out faster. 💧 Watering: I’m still watering with 1L every two days. 💦 The dosage of BioBizz Grow and BioBizz Bloom has been increased according to the BioBizz feeding schedule. The pH of the water remains constant at 6.0. ⚖️💧 Temperature & Humidity: Luckily, the weather in Germany is cooling down, so I no longer have to deal with temperatures of up to 30°C in the tent. 🌡️🍂 I’m expecting temperatures to settle between 18-23°C now that we’re in September, and humidity should stabilize around 50-55%. This will create perfect conditions for the upcoming drying process. 🍃✨ Plant Health: The plant is looking good overall. 🌿 I did have some calcium and magnesium deficiency symptoms recently, but I’ve managed to get that under control with CalMag. 💪 I’m continuing to carefully remove any leaves that are noticeably blocking light to the buds and hindering photosynthesis. 🍃✂️ Vibes: Every day, my plant still enjoys an hour of Lo-fi Jazz music. 🎶🌱 I think it helps set the perfect growing atmosphere. 🎷 🌱 Day 56 - Last Day of Week 8 🌱 Final Feeding: Today marks the last day of the fourth flowering week and the last day I’ll be feeding the plant. 🌿💧 From now on, the plant will receive only water for the final 14 days to flush out the remaining nutrients from the soil. 🚿 As a beginner, I’m unsure if two weeks without nutrients will be enough for the plant to finish properly. There’s a part of me that worries about potentially wasting its full potential by skipping nutrient periods. 🤔🌱 However, I’ve decided to stick with the plan—after 14 days of just water, I’ll harvest the plant. ✂️🍃 Humidity & Temperature: This week, the weather has cooled down significantly, and I no longer have to struggle with high temperatures. 🌡️🍂 The temperature ranges from 19-23°C during the day, and humidity sits between 49-56%. I think these are ideal conditions to bring out the purple hues in the buds. 🍇✨ Defoliation & Plant Care: I’ve finished the final defoliation and trimming of the plant this week. 🍃✂️ From now until harvest, I’ll avoid making any more changes or interventions, as I want to keep the plant stress-free and allow the bud production to progress smoothly. 🌱💪 Trichome Observation: As a beginner, I’ve started checking the trichomes this week, but I’m finding it challenging to distinguish between clear and milky trichomes. 🔍💎 I plan to harvest when I see 90% milky and 10% amber trichomes. 🌿✨ I’ll keep you all updated next week, and don’t forget—there are new pictures every day! 📸🌱