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*Week 3 Flower - 09/10* Blimburn Apple Fritter - Seedsman Genetics Critical+2.0 Healthy - 0 signs on of deficiencies Most fan leaves have been stripped; - Lighter defoliation - Aggressive LST on main colas *Week 3 Flower Mid-week update 09/13* Approximately 3 inch increase in Height on both plants - Critical+2.0 - Seedsman Genetics - Blumburn Apple Fritter 1 Gallon increase on water feed (Nutes included) Budsite density has increased. Light defoliation *End of week recap 09/16* (Week 3 Flower) BlimBurn - Apple Fritter - 47 Inches - Flowering processing accordingly - 0 deficiencies Seedsman Genetics - Critical+2.0 - 46 Inches - Flowering processing accordingly - 0 deficiencies Increased water feed (2.5 gallons every day +Nutes) *SEE UPDATE END OF WEEK VIDEO RECAP*

Defoliated and given the last nutrients before harvest, planning to cut in roughly 2 weeks. Depending on weather conditions and trichomes. Bud shots are the best of each strain. Mango Kush: has the most buds overall. Some of them seem a to be not very dense though. Little whispy buds start low on the branch and then progress to some fat tips. White Widow: seems to have denser buds but much less. The plant has always wanted to go straight up and has very rigid branches. This strain should probably get training early on to maximize bud potential. Green Crack: has big buds at the tip of each branch but they aren't very long. Though the buds seem very dense and heavy.

Hello This is the end of week 9 and the beginning of week 10 of veg. Got them outside and into the greenhouse last week. I see they have warm up, and all the leaves are facing the sun now. Got them spread out so they can cover their area. Slightly split 1 stem and didn't bury 2 root balls deep enough, so the top branches have to go over the first rung and then under the second. I think I'll try, putting a top net in here instead of the bamboo I've used for the last few years. Gave each plant 2 liters of ph adjusted water and poured it down the stem, so the water will travel down the stem to the root ball, and the drier soil will wick any extra water away and not cause problems for the roots of the plants. Cannabis plants don't like cold, wet, root balls. I'll do some LST next week and take some clones of these smelly plants. Some have the smell of sweet but strong lemony cleaner Some smell a little like desert and earthy. They leave a smell on your fingers you can still smell minutes later. These plants should be really good... is what my experience is telling me. OK. Be Really Cool. Chuck.

Excellent quality and quantity with this harvest! Will look to to control the stretching phase of flowering next grow.

Well it was a fast strain just like they say, it comes and goes in 8 to 9 weeks easily, I just added a week to fatten up the buds, I am very impressed what these boys in Cali are creating, kudos FB! I am sure I will be satisfied once I get to actually taste my cookies. PS - does anyone know if i input my Grow room size correct, my tent is 80cm x 80cm x 100cm, thanks for any help!😋00

LST this week. Bout to flower.

Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 Girls grow well, hedgehogs coming along, litle start of overfert, only water this week 💪 Continuing scrog and fight with leaves. 💧 Give water each 2/3 day 2 l Water Only PH @6 💡Mars Hydro - FC 3000 50% 30 cm Mars Hydro Fan kit Setting 8 Have a good week and see you next week 👋 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - Smart FC3000 300W Samsung LM301B LED Grow Light💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - 6 Inch Inline Fan And Carbon Filter Combo With Thermostat Controller 💨💨 https://www.mars-hydro.com/6-inch-inline-duct-fan-and-carbon-filter-combo-with-thermostat-controller Fast Buds - Tropicana Cookies FF🌲🌲 https://2fast4buds.com/us/seeds/tropicana-cookies-fast-flowering

Into week two all cuttings have taken 8 have been topped, spacers have been deployed to train branches 3cm spacers I will increase the size of spacers once the branches develop a little more. about every 3 days Is required depending on how the strain performs. this is a more creative method of growing with the final picture of your media in mind {peecock effect}. once the media has starched I will snap on the spacers to create the scrog for a level canopy, holding the outer plants left and right further out to the left and right for more light exposure to develop my flowers to there full potential. middle of week 2 I put the spacers together to make the scrog mainly two train the left and right rows of plants outwards for more space in the middle of my canopy.

Thought my growth was stunted but I came back from a 5 day vacation to some pretty consistent growth. Also the one from last week with the weird growth came out looking normal after the first couple leaves.

Was feeding 2.5 2.5 1.2 per gal flora series with 2.5 calmag ph quickly dropped in run off to 4.7. Im guessing the florakleen had something to do with messing with the buffer. I thought the king tut looked droppy a few days after flush of couse i thought issue was maybe overwater. I skipped one water and over night all plants were much worse. Half the leaves on tut dried out and some on the alien tech. Read up and finally found someone mention to feed 1.3 to 1.5 gal per 5 gal in coco coir per event. I was feeding 1 gallon of water twice a day so went to 1.5 to 2 gal per event twice a day. Underwatering was the issue, cal mag in some, nutrient burn and ph. Ph going in at 6.0 coming out 4.7. I chopped the chem de la creme and the acid as they were not doing well or just stunted badly. Squanch Queen had a lot of calmag issues so added more. Eventually i ended up doing a 1/4 nute 2.5 calmag ro flush to get the ph of run off out of 4.7 range and eventually it has risen to 5.2 to 5.4 in time with .2 ec adjustments. Lots of problems. Have an ro buddy but am going to get a better system. Working on installing diy drain system.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Giving some light too dress feedings and making sure she is watered. It’s been hot lately! Guessing another 3 weeks?

Que pasa familia, vamos con la novena semana de floración de estas Gorilla Melón feminizadas de fastbuds. Vamos al lío, de las 3 plantas, me quede con 2 por espacio, siempre pongo alguna semilla de más por si no abriese alguna por no perder ese hueco del indoor. También se trasplantaron a su maceta definitiva, en este caso de 7 litros que además provocó un shock que también solucione. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/24 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. Las flores están bien prietas y sacan unos aromas afrutados y dulces increible, está acabando de madurar pero no veas como se han puesto. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

Bewässerung: 500 ml jeden 3 Tag in der Fünften Woche pH-Wert: 6 EC-Wert: 1.8 mS/cm Temperatur: 30ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit: 55% Schädlingsbekämpfung: im Moment haben wir keine Anzeichen das es was zu bekämpfen gibt, sobald die ersten Anzeichen da sind werden wir handeln :), aber zur Sicherheit haben wir wieder ein paar Raubmilben an die Pflanzen gehenkt. PPFD: 600 µmol/m²/s DLI: 38 mol/m²/Tag Düngemittel: Sie bekommt CalMag von BioBizz zu Prävention. Ab Tag 8 haben wir angefangen sie mit einem Mineralischen NPK Dünger (NPK 7-3-5) zu Gießen . Besonderheiten: Wurde Getoppt und mit LST Trainiert -Tag 28 Heute haben wir sie Stark entlaubt und LST angewendet, in den nächsten Tagen wird sie weiter Trainiert. Bis sie in die Vorblüte wechselt. -Tag 30 Sie wurde Heute in einen der Großen Töpfe umgepflanzt und wird sich nun ein paar Tage erholen. Sie hat heute auch wieder eine Portion Wasser mit Dünger bekommen, Sie macht sie ganz gut :) -Tag 31 auch sie wurde heute trainiert und entlaubt 😗

I love this community and the way its like a big family, thank you all for your love time and dedication, keep it up, growers love to you all 💚💚💚

Day 73 for the 54 plant grow. 42 different strains of photoperiods and 12 different autoflower strains in the: 8X8 GROW TENT WITH THE NEW          FC-E6500, FC4800 AND TSW2000 and green buzz all organic/vegan fertilizers🤘 The girls are loving their MARS MANSION and everything is doing good and looking nice and getting bigger👍 lots of hairs clumping up now and they are all getting nice and frosty and starting to stink ALOT. MARS HYDRO ALWAYS GETS EM FROSTY👍.I AM NEVER DISAPPOINTED With how awesome these lights are🤘. KEEP KILLING IT MARS🤘👏👏 BREEDERS AND SEEDS: DIVINE SEEDS: MAZAR, OPIUM, WHITE WIDOW, OG KUSH, PABLO ESCOBAR, DIVINE INDICA. AUTO WHITE WIDOW AUTO PABLO ESCOBAR AUTO WHITE RUSSIAN AUTO FRACTAL AUTO MONTREAL AUTO OPIUM AUTO KABUL AUTO MAZAR. WEEDSEED EXPRESS: GREEN CRACK, GHOST TRAIN HAZE, LITHIUM OG, CHEESE. DOCTORS CHOICE: DC KUSH, AUTO NIAGARA, AUTO ROCK MACHINE. EXOTIC SEEDS: HIPPIE BERRY, MALASANA GELATO, EXOTIC ANIMAL. GENE/MEME SEEDS: BLACK HELL. ORIGINAL SENSIBLE SEEDS: PURPLE PUNCH COOKIES, WEDDING CAKE, PURE KUSH, GORILLA COOKIES. SWEET SEEDS: BLACK JACK, GORILLA GIRL, SWEET ZKITTLES. EMERALD TRIANGLE SEEDS: GORILLA GLUE, MASTODON KUSH. SEEDSMAN SEEDS: BLACK SUGAR, PEYOTE FORUM, PEYOTE WIFI, BADAZZ COOKIES OG, PURPLE GHOST CANDY, STRAWBERRY BANANA GRAPE, L.A. PEYOTE KUSH, PEYOTE WIFI CBD, FUEL DOG, CRITICAL PURPLE KUSH. AMSTERDAM MARIJUANA SEEDS: GIRL SCOUT COOKIES EXTREME, GREEN CRACK. QUEBEC CANNABIS SEEDS: BRUCE BANNER, GREEN CRACK, QUEBEC CBD 20:1. I 💚 GROWING MARIJUANA: SKYWALKER OG, BANANA KUSH, BLUEBERRY CBD. FOR EVERYTHING MARS HYDRO VISIT: www.mars-hydro.com www.marshydroled.ca PROMO CODE: rocknroll VISIT THE ALIEXPRESS STORE: @marshydro_aliexpress2 Instagram: @marshydropenny https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ #greenbuzzliquids @GreenBuzzLiquids https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ PROMO CODE: rocknroll https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hEqyS1jPpI https://growdiaries.com/diaries/112437-grow-journal-by-rock-n-roll-randy/week/593118 Thanks for taking the time to read and check out my shit🤜🤛 FC-E6500 LED GROW LIGHT: FC-E6500 grow light with 3978pcs OSRAM BridgeLux Diodes & Moso Driver, market-leading PPF 2.7 µmol/J, Max 2.5g yield/watt with 30% higher Average PPE, more cost-effective when compared to same style type lights. Only consumes 650W, perfectly cover 5x5ft (personal), 4x4ft (commercial) grow space. Innovative Precise Uniform Lighting-Built-in removable bars interval & dimmability enable the exact & dynamic PPFD control over each of the plant growing stages, FC-E6500 detachable bars deliverSuperior Heat Dissipation: Real Aluminum heatsink together with 6 slim profile passive cooled bars (THINNER & LARGER surface) and detachable Meanwell Driver, create less heat. save 50% hydro than other old grow lights! Driver can be mounted remotely on the side of a grow tent/rack or on an adjacent wall to remove heat from grow space. Full Spectrum UV IR LED: With Yield Max spectrum (660nm Osram enhanced Deep Red,2800k-5000k,730-740nm IR,380-410nm UV LEDs), Average PPFD the FC-E6500 LED grow lamp enables cultivators to produce BIG FAT Dense Buds, perfect for full-cycle hydroponic, soil, grow tent/grow room. Dimmable Commercial Grow Light: Cost-efficient, easy dimming & daisy chain With a max up to 20 lights, IP65 Waterproof, master light easily controls the rest. Perfect for commercial & home horticulture. FC4800 LED GROW LIGHT: GET THE MAX FROM MARS👍: Welcome one of  the newest members of the Mars Hydro family🤜🤛🤘. The Mars Hydro FC 4800 480W LED Grow Light can accommodate up to a 4' x 4' area for flowering. It has OVER 2000 LED chips consisting of the best selling Samsung LM301B diodes which has a Luminous Efficacy of: 220 lm/W 0.2 W, 3 V mid power, Osram 660nm Diodes, Infrared light and UV LIGHT👍. It boasts the incredible efficiency of 2.8 µmol/J, maximum 2.5gram yield per watt with 30% higher Average PPFD. This High-intensity spectrum is beneficial for plants at all stages - from veg to bloom, and creates Big dense Buds👍. achieve 50% higher yields & quality compared with the old lights! Only consumes 480W for 4x4ft personal grows, and 3x3ft for commerical grow. It comes with a dimmer and daisy chain function with a  maximum of up to 15 lights, the master light controls the rest👍. Wide 6-bar design offers even & wide canopy coverage and can maximizes your grow space. slim 180° FOLDABLE DESIGN... YES I SAID FOLDABLE🤘🤣 , making it compact and easy to install, it's IP65 WATERPROOF and will give you no worries while growing in a humid environment and makes it a flexible high performance commercial grow light for enormous  SUPER FROSTY yields.😛😛😛. MARS GETS EM FROSTY BOYS👍 AWESOME HEAT DISSIPATION: The Low energy consumption FC4800 growing light has 6 passive-cooled bars and an aluminum heat-sink a removable driver  you can upgrade later or have it outside your tent. with zero noise  you can save up to 50% in your electricity bill compared to HID's or HPS lights! It also has a removable driver so you can upgrade it in the future or have it outside your grow space for better heat control in your growroom👍 UPGRADED FULL SPECTRUM: Yield Max Spectrum with enhanced red (Top-Bin Samsung 3000k-5000knm, Osram 660nm Deep Red), speed up blooming & fruiting, perfectly suited for full-cycle growing. The FC4800 LED grow lamp was born for Big Buds, perfect for commercial, grow tent, grow room, hydroponics, and all soil grows.👍 THE BEST SAMSUNG DIODES: THE FC4800 has Top Bin genuine Samsung Osram Diodes, combined with remarkable 2.8 µmol/J Efficacy, 30% higher Average PPFD, 50% less energy consumption, to maximize your yields. They give you a TRUSTED 3 years warranty 100% Satisfactory guaranteed!!! TSW2000 LED GROW LIGHT: INCREASE YIELD AND CROP QUALITY WITH MARS HYDRO LED GROW LIGHTS: NEWEST SMD LED technology provides the highest PAR/LUMEN output (1122umol@18") and can make you get 30% higher yield compared to OLD blurple led lights.  Max 2.5g yield per wattage and achieve maximum quality and quantity, much better than traditional HPS grow systems LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION LED GROW LIGHT: Consuming only 300W true output with 684 LEDS! It saves up to 50% energy than other led grow lights. Perfect for 3.5x3.5ft bloom stage, 4x4ft veg stage. Over 90% light energy can be absorbed by plants, it will have higher intensity in a MARS HYDRO grow tent with diamond design mylar, or by crossing over using multiple TSW2000 HIGH EFFICIENCY FULL SPECTRUM INDOOR GROW: 3000K 5000K and IR 660nm 760nm RED, makes it close to natural light, highly engineered to provide improved growing performance for plants at all stages of growing, rapid plant response from seed to flower; Uniform and wide-beam light distribution for your plant's optimal growth 8x8 GROW TENT: The MARS HYDRO 8x8 Grow Tent interior is made of a unique diamond design mylar which is highly reflective. (Other companies mylar and reflective rate is as low as 50%, and it won't provide efficient light. They use thick 1680D oxford canvas, and being double stitched, it is tear proof and perfect for locking in the light. Their grow tent keeps 100% of the light inside the tent and helps your plants absorb more light. EXTRA-THICK material means No light leaks or rips at all.👍 Strong Stable metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. It's very sturdy, neither rusting or paint flaking off. quick and easy tool-free setup. They use heavy-duty metal zippers, with double layer black lining, by far the best on the market which creates a light-proof seal. The Easy observation windows are made by double layers of cloth. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing your plants. The observation windows also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate the air.

End of week 4 marking around the half way point as both strains both have 8-9 week flower periods. Runtz Muffin #1 already looks like it's going to have more of a longer airy bud structure compared to the others