1/14: This morning, I did a foliar application of big bloom and fulvic acid, then about 5 hours later I watered them with about a half-gallon of rainwater each and added armor si, humic acid, endoboost myco/tricho, liquid molasses, and a bunch of cal-mag. Today, I also I wired up and mounted my new samsung sun board strips (660nm/730nm) and my Solacure FlowerPower UVB fixture. I'm running the deep red/far red bud boosters a few hours per day right now, but will run them for the entire photoperiod once I start flowering them. I'll run the UVB for 4 * 15-minute sessions a day for the full flowering cycle, and if they don't protest too much I'll increase each session by 5 minutes and evaluate again. Some strains are more forgiving than others and I've got 5 different strains in this space...so really not sure much time I'll get away with exposing them to the deadly rays without damaging them too much...😈 1/15: I received one of the rapid led/growmau far red initiator pucks today. With the placement of my UVB light, I'm realizing I'll need another far red puck to have even and intense far red coverage, so I'm ordering another with Prime delivery and waiting to start flowering until I receive it. I sprayed them down really well with ph adjusted rainwater tonight to rinse off nutrient build-up from foliar applications. 1/16: I'm really excited to try flowering under 14/10. I grew photos indoors on an off for 15 years before I semi-retired. If I added up all the additional flowering time I could have done through the years if LED technology existed, I'd have had an extra truckload of bud to smoke. I did another application of Axiom Harpin a|b Proteins this evening, right before dark. I'm expecting a big growth burst this week, leading up to the flower stretch. I really need them to trigger under 14/10 within 4 or 5 days🙏 ...if not, I'll switch to 13/11 and wait a few more days🙏😟..if still no pistils are poppin, I'll go to 12/12 and chalk it up as bad luck or varietal indifference to Pr and Pfr manipulation. 1/17: I fed each of them about 3/4 gallon of full strength veg nutes. This will be the last. I'll go with half-strength veg and half-strength bloom for a week, then go with full strength bloom nutrients until I start flushing them in 6-8 weeks. 1/18: I installed the second far-red flowering initiator today and got all my timers configured for flowering: ========================================= timer#1 - power strip with qb's and red boosters 10:00am -12:00am timer#2 - (dual/independent setting) sideA- 3-way cube with uva bars 10am - 3pm 7pm - 11pm sideB- flowerpower uvb 1pm - 1:15pm 4pm - 4:15pm 7pm - 7:15pm 11pm - 11:15pm timer#3 - far red pucks 11:00pm - 12:15am timer#4 - sub-canopy tube 10am - 1pm 3pm - 6pm 8pm - 11pm ======================================== I also did some testing on the timers and sealed myself into the closet to check for any light leaks. All good.👌 1/19: Tonight is their first long night. It's ON!👍 1/20: I watered them today with about a half gallon each. I'm seeing calcium and magnesium deficiences here and there, so added some boomerang and heavy cal-mag-Fe along with liquid molasses, humic acid, and endoboost myco. I also foliar fed with big bloom and fulvic acid. That's it for week 4-

2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. Remember, For every molecule of glucose produced during photosynthesis, a plant needs to split six molecules of water. This process provides the hydrogen needed for synthesizing glucose and other organic compounds, while oxygen is released as a byproduct. Homework. If Rubisco activity is impaired and it cannot properly function or regenerate its substrate, the plant's leaves are likely to turn a pale green or lime green, a condition known as chlorosis. Essentially, Rubisco activity is highly regulated and susceptible to various environmental and metabolic factors that can cause it to become inhibited, leading to an apparent failure in RuBP regeneration due to a lack of consumption. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration. RuBisCO is a very large enzyme that constitutes a significant proportion (up to 50%) of leaf soluble protein and requires large investments in nitrogen. Insufficient nitrogen supply limits the plant's ability to produce adequate amounts of RuBisCO, thereby limiting the overall capacity for photosynthesis and carbon fixation. Maintaining the optimal, slightly alkaline pH is crucial for the proper function and regeneration of Rubisco. Deviations in either direction (too high or too low) disrupt the enzyme's structure, activation state, and interaction with its substrates, leading to decreased activity and impaired RuBP regeneration. (Lime/yellowing) Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. For those high-intensity workouts when 1 meal a day is just not enough! Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The plant was getting a little limey yellow in the centre. Shortly thereafter, she was back in business, green mostly regenerated. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Confidence is evidence... nothing more. You are confident because you have driven 10,000 times, you are confident because you have spoken 10,000 times. People think confidence is a feeling, but it's not. If you want more confidence, then you need to create evidence, take more shots, collect more data, build more experiences, take more risks; fail, confidence doesn't come first; it is the reward you get for doing the work. no one else wants to do.

Last week of flo >> harvest the 29th october This strain is highly resistant of mistakes.

There really is only 4 auto plants in there!! Lol 😆😆

Harvesting my fist plant this week. I've read that stopping watering before harvest will increase resin production. You can see that most leafs on the bottom right plant turned yellow. Most of its trichomes are cloudy with a few amber ones here and there.

So at the start of week 3 I began to LST CM#3 to just experiment basically and topped CM#2 I believe. Again, just to experiment. This is my first grow and I was stunned with the reactions to both! The new growth after topping was about 1/4” in about 12hrs.. Crazy to me and the lst is proving to expose these bud sites and encourage amazing growth QUICK!! I’ll continue to train daily. One of the videos show the topped CM just yesterday. In 4 days, it’s grown soo much! Also, a video mentions the gender reveal but since then, all 4 have officially revealed themselves as female at the 22 day mark.

Harvested today. Day 70. Nice unique terp profile on her. Reminds me of sour worm sweets.

12/02/2025 Week 10! And we have some revelations. I think I figured out a problem. No idea if it's related to the pH fluctuations, but I'm almost 100% certain that these ladies have been experiencing light stress. At least Lemon Cherry Cookies is. But she's taller, so she got the brunt of the light. I turned it down to 50% from 70% to see if that fixes things. Of course the pH was off. But now the swing for both plants is going down. It seems Papaya Cookies is leveling off her nutrient intake finally. Lemon Cherry Cookies isn't far behind. But today is water change day. We'll be dropping the nutrients down a bit to hopefully clear out the nutrient lockout. Or whatever is happening. I'm definitely slowing them down. And not in a good way. Buds are kinda on the small side right now. But I'm hoping with the next 2 weeks to go, and everything fixed, we'll get some glorious buds. Next run will be different. Next run, I'll know what to look for. In my defense, the light is topped out and the DLI is pretty bouncy. So I can't get a solid reading anywhere on either plant. Speaking of either plant, each one is showing completely different stresses. While Lemon Cherry Cookies is getting really yellow leaves close to the buds, Papaya Cookies has brown spots. Indicative of a nutrient lockout. But the lockout is clearing up. I'm afraid the damage is already done though. Plants stunted, or slowed in growth. Maybe they'll both recover quickly. As for potency, hands down Papaya Cookies is the most potent. She smells so strong, I have to ease the tent open or get blown away by weed smell. She has a super thick layer of frost all over each bud. Some have more. But it's pretty crazy. Lemon Cherry Cookies doesn't have as much, but she is certainly sticky and smelly. Maybe I can't see as much because the buds are darker and not as developed as her compadre. The base readings for this week. Papaya Cookies: pH: 5.8 EC: 1.639 TDS: 792 ppm Lemon Cherry Cookies: pH: 5.8 EC: 1.502 TDS: 749 ppm I know they aren't the same, but close enough. Let's hope they start to take in the nutrients and not reject them. I also made sure to use a clean fresh reserve bucket for each plant. I think it helped to clear out some of the loose root fibers. We shall see. So from here on out, it's just water and observe. Well, keep the pH in check too, but that's part of the observation. I know the damage is done on the yellow leaves, so I think I'm just looking for the leaves to stop turning yellow. Ultimately it's the water I have to keep a very close eye on. Fluctuations with these ladies is definitely causing more havoc than the light stress. So it's about 4 hours after I made the new mix. Both are at the exact same pH. 6.6 and I honestly have no idea what to do. Take the plants back out and pH it again? Or let them sit in it and see if it swings back down. I think it has to do with the water temp. It's gone up 6° f. Not much but enough to mess with the pH. Any suggestions? Comment down below if you have an idea. 12/03/2025 Some changes today. Both ladies had a 6 6 pH this morning. Each also drank just about a half gallon. So I added about 3 ml of pH Down and mixed it up. Added to the reservoirs. Morning: Papaya Cookies: pH: 6.59?! Wtf EC: 1.718 TDS: 847 ppm Lemon Cherry Cookies: pH: 6.8?!!!!!!!!! What in the actual fuck is happening?! EC: 1.510 TDS: 751 ppm I put in 3ml of pH down in my top off. Why did it go up?! How?! Evening: lights on: Lemon Cherry Cookies: Got a fresh mix. I took out the silica. pH: 5.8 EC: 1398 TDS: 699 Papaya Cookies: pH: 5.8 EC: 1776 TDS: 863 I want to see what happens when I take the silica out. I read that it's not really necessary in late flower. Maybe it'll help with the pH swings, not having it in there. I also dropped the mix. Just a little bit. If Papaya Cookies has any issues tomorrow, I'll give her a new mix as well. It could also be the water. I don't have anymore water money, so I had to go to filtered tap water. It's not terrible, but it's hard. Well, kinda hard. I think. Lol. It's like a pH of 7.9 Anyway, both plants have swelling buds. The timing for most charts couldn't be too perfect with these two. I still have to figure out how to keep the EC and TDS from spiking. No clue how to do that. Hopefully the 2 days in a row where I use plain water as the backup reservoir. For when I'm changing the water out. Just pHed to 5.8. it seems to also be slowing down on the "shedding". Lol. I probably made it worse. For Lemon Cherry Cookies that is. But yah, getting big and plump. I can't wait for the end result. I'm kinda skeptical of my original estimate of 6 oz. per plant or something like that. But now I'm thinking 3 to 4 per plant. Not terrible, but not great. A plant this size should put out 8 oz if the buds bulk up enough. So there still could be hope for the 6 oz. We shall see. On a different note, I dropped the temp to 73° f. I'd like a nice purple plant. And Lemon Cherry Cookies is the perfect purple plant for it. Papaya Cookies is an all green sativa. Lime green. Very nice. The humidity stays the same. Now, I'm having trouble getting a legitimate explanation as to why the VPD should be 1.2 to 1.6 kPa when the recommended temp is like 73 and the RH between 40 and 50%? It's too high according to VPD charts. Am I looking at the right charts? Is there a difference between the VPD from veg to flower? I wonder. 12/04/2025 So I attempted to pH the water today for both plants. It was pretty much a fail. However I did get one of them within range. Not that'll last very long. Papaya Cookies: pH: 5.6 EC: 1728 TDS: 846 Lemon Cherry Cookies: pH: 5.70 EC: 1492 TDS: 760 So while I managed to get Papaya Cookies in range, it's still not where she needs to be. Lemon Cherry Cookies was over 7. I don't know how. And I am trying to keep from disturbing the roots, but I needed to pH that plant immediately. I was gonna wait for after lights out, but I really couldn't. The pH was way too high. Even topping off with water pHed at 5.5 only moved it to 6.9. So I did the thing. And now it's done. I also think I figured out the source of the high pH. It's the roots. Definitely something in the roots. The holdover bucket was lHed to 5.8 exactly. Less than 15 minutes late and I have her back in her normal bucket. The holdover was already at 5.95. How do I clean the roots without hydrogaurd or whatever. I have sensizyme, but not much and it calls for a whole lot of it for a single gallon. It calls for 8 ml for a single gallon of water. Slightly more. I will never use that much. That's insane. Anyway, I'm not 100% sure what it does, and the description is pretty vague. I don't even know if it's the same stuff. Anyway, the yellowing seems to be getting worse. It's almost on every sugar leaf on the top buds. Like there's still light burn, but I checked. The DLI is below 40 mol. So it has to be this lockout I can't get rid of. I'll be honest, I think if the tent were bigger, it would be easier to handle everything and I might be able to lift the roots without touching them. Alas. I'm in a 3x3 and there is no clearance folfeom the light. And just not enough space in general. One of these plants with a trellis would have filled the whole tent. Both of them take up a ton of space. Flat against the side walls and flat against each other. Nearly touching the front and back. Both plants did this. Plenty of back and front space. Just no room for a trellis that low. So let's talk plant health. Because these ladies are not doing all that fantastic. I honestly have no idea what's wrong. I've been doing everything you're supposed to do. Keep the pH in check, drop the EC and TDS to keep that in check. Which it's not in check at all. It keeps going up. And I know it's the roots. And the water level. Because they aren't taking in any nutrients, they drink away the water and leave a high concentration of nutes. The problem I'm having is that I can't get whatever is in the roots to come out completely. How do I do that? I know they spike the pH, but what is holding them back from eating the nutrients? It's obviously not the size of the roots preventing them from absorbing, but like what is it? Should I just tough it out, do what I can and in a week or so start flushing? I don't think they'll be ready in a week. Well, maybe. It all depends on the lowers and mids. I don't base doneness on top buds. Those will always look done first. But the middle buds, at least for me, are a good sign the plant is done. Lowers should be ready as well, but always end up being larf. I should really try to clean up the bottom of my plants before the stretch. Or is it after? I don't know. I can't remember and I should know this for next run. Lol. Back to the issue at hand. On a plus side, both ladies are starting to really fatten up their buds. Papaya Cookies is covered in trichomes. Lemon Cherry Cookies is kind of lacking to be honest. But maybe that's because of the color. Purple. Maybe it hides it, but I don't think so. Just lacking. Disappointing. We'll see how she turns out in the end. There's still time. 12/05/2025 Morning numbers: Lemon Cherry Cookies: pH: 6.59 EC: 1686 TDS: 839 Papaya Cookies: pH: 4.65 EC: 1819 TDS: 911 After adding pHed water. High or low. Based on the plant. Lemon Cherry Cookies: pH: 6.6 EC: 1535 TDS: 766 Papaya Cookies: pH: 5.6 EC: 1650 TDS: 818 It looks like things are leveling out with EC and TDS. A little bit. But the pH is still way off. Maybe that'll adjust naturally when the plants start to feed again... For like the last week and a half before flush hahaha. I'll be checking trichomes tonight. I figure it's time we take a look. I'm pretty sure Papaya Cookies is nearly done. Maybe the next week. Lemon Cherry Cookies on the other hand does not look done at all. Maybe she's closer than I realize. But there's still quite a bit of white pistils all over the plant. I like to wait for the lowers to start getting orange pistils. As I said before, I like to judge by the middle of the plant. With the middle, I like to see nearly all cloudy. Maybe a few amber and next to no clear. From my experience, it seems to work best for me. But that could also be plant height based as well. Still middle of the plant makes sense to me. You know the mids will be done and smokable. Where as the lowers, because I'm stupid and never cut them off, will end up being popcorn or larf. Good for pressing though. I also check the uppers, of course. Anyway, I have been observing the yellowing on the plant from what I think is light burn. It was still going for a few days, but I think it's done now. Now all I need to worry about is the other deficiencies and lockouts and all that. Mid-day: I was just thinking about defoliation and how much I just didn't do it this run. I mean, I did, but it was just a little bit here and there. Anyway, I was thinking about the leaves and how the older ones pop off verses the younger ones that obviously don't. Wouldn't it make sense to just take the leaves that pop off when defoliating and then the new growth that may be in the way? Like old growth while still pulling in light, is now starting to use more energy than producing. Just a thought. 12/06/2025 Morning numbers AFTER Adjustments. I was half awake and forgot to record the readings. Papaya Cookies: pH: 6.05 EC: 1556 TDS: 774 Lemon Cherry Cookies: pH: 6.35 EC: 1484 TDS: 741 It looks like we are finally getting back to normal. Lemon Cherry Cookies got about 3/4 gallon of water with 2.5 ml of pH down in it. It only dropped about 0.1 point on the pH scale. But the EC and the TDS are lower than yesterday and the pH was in range. High but in range. Point being, I think she is finally coming out of the woods. I think I'm gonna pull her out this afternoon and pH the water back down to 5.8. I wonder if she'll start taking nutrients in when she gets back to a 5.8 pH. The EC should also adjust a bit more, as well as the TDS. Hopefully it comes out low and in a better range. Papaya Cookies still has super wonky pH, but not as low as it was yesterday. The EC and TDS both dropped a little bit as well. After adjusting the pH up to "5.8" which ended up at 6.05. No Clue how that happened. Roots maybe. I doubt it. Maybe it hadn't settled quite enough. I wait a few minutes between testing. Maybe I was a little hasty. Oh well. At least it's over. Maybe it'll drop to 5.8 and stop. Lol. Anyway, she definitely has signs of deficiency now. Not craziness everywhere. I think we're in the clear now. It was rost spots all over a bunch of the leaves. No crazy yellowing like Lemon Cherry Cookies. So it would seem we are close to out of the woods as I said. Looking good. Both plants are drinking and starting to get even more frosty. Lemon Cherry Cookies is a bit behind, almost a week I think. My concern is drying space. I have my 2x2, but no space for it. At least none that will let me hook it up to the 3x3 and plug in a fan for air circulation. Unless I run a huge power strip. I could do that. I could also plug in the exhaust fan, but I think the filter is all done. Gonna need a new filter. But I was thinking of putting the exhaust fan in and hooking it up to the 3x3 and putting it on low. To help extract the air. Anyway, I don't want to let Papaya Cookies get too over ripe. And a week would definitely do that. I'm still trying to figure something out. I might have an idea. Definitely only temporary. Just until Lemon Cherry Cookies is done. Then I can dry both plants and pull the 2x2 down when I'm done. I really don't have space for it. Small apartment and all. I also added some trichome videos that I took yesterday. I can't do pics. My hands aren't steady enough. But these should suffice. About a week left on both of them. Maybe a week and a half. Papaya Cookies looks to be a little bit closer to done. But Lemon Cherry Cookies isn't too far behind. It's the lowers that concern me. Very underdeveloped on Lemon Cherry Cookies. Papaya Cookies has a bit more going for it. Some decently solid buds in the lowers. Nothing big mind you. I'd say they will be smalls. And not larf. I'm definitely getting larf on Lemon Cherry Cookies though. Unless I want to wait another 2 to 3 weeks. That's about how long some of them have left to go. I think. Maybe I'm wrong and they will finish up by end of next week. Ultimately my goal is to have dried cured bud by the end of December. It doesn't look very promising. But maybe. If I harvest next week, that gives a week of drying and a week of curing. I like about 10 days drying and a good 2 to 3 weeks of curing. Middle of January if I let it go as I want it to. And I think I'll do that. No sense in ruining a good batch for impatient thoughts. Sorry for the terrible video quality. Best I can do. 12/07/2025 Morning numbers: Surprisingly Lemon Cherry Cookies was almost on point. Her pH was 6.1 EC was 1705 and TDS was 735. Lemon Cherry Cookies: pH: 6.05 mix didn't do anything EC: 1440 TDS: 722 Papaya Cookies: pH: 5.73 EC: 1489 TDS: 736 Everything is looking alright today. Not good by any stretch, but alright. We aren't spiking and the crash with Papaya Cookies was manageable this time. Lemon Cherry Cookies actually kept within range and even dropped a little. Her TDS is just a bit lower and the EC is roughly the same. To me, this is a win. Doesn't it mean she's no longer in lockout? Or finally recovering? This is great! Just in time for the last week and a half of the run. SMH. Wonder if that means she'll bulk up a bit more. Her buds are decent size but not big, and from what I can tell, not fully developed. She's still behind. But I'm hoping with the recovery, she'll bulk up and harden off. Currently the buds are fairly soft. Good purple color though. Papaya Cookies. Well, we aren't doing too bad. The numbers look good. Only had to add plain water and got her right in range. Even super close to 5.8. The best part about this is what I'm observing with the plant. The buds are starting to weigh down the back branches. Some of the fronts are falling over as well. The middle is still standing straight up and that's great! What this all means is these buds while not massive, are rock hard and heavy. And I mean rock hard. I wouldn't be surprised if she only lost 60% of her weight after curing. It's possible. Everything else looks good. The environment, the water temp is fine as well for both plants. 69° not great, but within range. Update: Lemon Cherry Cookies pH has not budged an inch and her EC and TDS are about the same as well. A little drop since this morning Papaya Cookies also seems pretty good. Her pH is still dropping. This time it took 3 ml of pH up to fix it. I haven't seen anymore spotting on the leaves, but there are so many leaves afflicted with the spots it's hard to tell. Either way, a couple branches are leaning hard. Rear. Decent sized buds on them, but rock hard. I'm expecting a bit more bulking over the coming week. So I think I have figured out the actual root of the problem for both plants. Overfeeding. It has to be. All the problems started in early flower. Both of them doing the same thing except for the pH swings. That's weird to me. Regardless, I think had I fed like half the suggested dose, we would have been very happy. Well, live and learn. Next run will be better. 12/08/2025 Morning Readings: Papaya Cookies: pH: 6.2 EC: 1393 TDS: 698 Lemon Cherry Cookies: pH: 5.85 EC: 1385 TDS: 694 Well then, that looks much better. Had to adjust and Lemon Cherry Cookies was low today. Weird. But a little plain water brought her right up to 5.85. Nearly perfect. Papaya Cookies with a good amount of pH up landed at 6.2. Not on purpose. I miscalculated, but still better than the 4.5 it was at when I opened the tent. Both plants are really starting to swell their buds. Not much weight on Lemon Cherry Cookies, but Papaya Cookies on the other hand. Heavy. More branches are starting to lean. I kinda wish the whole plant would do it so it can open up space for light to the bottom of the canopy. I have a feeling that when Lemon Cherry Cookies starts actually putting on weight, the branches will also most definitely lean. I never talk about this, but the two plants together makes for an extremely potent smell. They are distinctively different, but it's really hard to tell them apart in the tent. I can smell the difference on my hands, but then I touch the other plant and back to no clue. Lol. I can't really figure out a smell. Can't pin it down. Gassy, heady, sweet and sour. I think... Lol. So this is the last full week for these ladies. Next week we will be starting the flush. It should only be for a few days. Anyway, today is the last day of normal nutes. Starting tomorrow we are taking out the Boost and dropping the bloom down to a quarter dose. I'll keep the cal/mag in but only a tiny bit. Let's hope everything goes as planned. Lol. So far it hasn't. Hahahahahaha. But we learn from our mistakes don't we? Of course. So everything should go smoothly. Tomorrow starts the new week. So I'll post a couple trichome videos for that. And the last time lapse video at the end of the week. That'll cover a month of growing. Anyway, not much else for today. Oh wait. So the trichomes on Papaya Cookies are extremely prominent. The buds are thickly covered top to bottom. Lemon Cherry Cookies on the other hand don't look to be covering the buds. Not like her besty. BUT I did notice in the video that there's a whole lot more than you can actually see. I wonder if the purple is hiding them from the naked eye. Plus there's still a lot of clear on her and she definitely has time to build more. I might do a dark period for the three days of flushing as well. I'll have to look into it. Bye for now.

After i topped the plant i didnt feed her right away. I let her recover. 06/05/2023 - Day 24 i finally watered the plant with nutrients. 07/05/2023 - This day has been awesome. At the end of the day i have noticed 2 new sprouts! One on top and other at the very bottom, below the coityledons! I will start LST soon so these new sprouts get light and start growing! I start to think it will be a challenge get this plants branches equally spread, but i´ll go for it anyway. 08/05/2023 - Day 26 i started with the LST. Just fixed main branch and bent it pointing to where the sun rises. This is very important when LST´ng outdoors. Always point your plants to where the sun rises so when she grows she points to the sunset. This week i added Alg-a-mic to help the plant recover from all the HST and LST. She seems to be fine and recovering fantastic. Will this be a monster Autoflower? ✌️

Friday the 19th of May Day 23 of 12/12 recently started with the new nutrients mills part A and mills part B ppm 870 all in full flower now still not impressed with the front left plant but what can you do il be happy with a small yield from that one hopefully the quality is as good as my last grow 🍁😎 also need to upgrade my light been using cheap lights for awhile now and the grow is better each time so I’d like to see what I can do with a well known light from a good company

Girls are developing well, i have a minor issue but is making me uncomfortable, a bug for the third time something that by research seams to be a lace bug, basically is like little drops of black oil in the leafs this develops in to a little static larvae then it becomes black, is tiny. And apparently does nothing on the surface to the plant, but man this bastards are imortal, I’m in the point of dropping a nuke or using a flame tower in the grow room. I’m deep in to flower... Besides that fir the third time, all good...

Day 55 starting to look really good.

Week 7 Things are coming along nicely. All the plants are pretty well where I want them. I will likely flip tomorrow. pH 6.0 240 ppm 68 F water temp 71 F tent temp 39% RH Happy Growing

As I stated before this is my mutant plant hehehhe.. looks like buds are fattening up a bit and more light penetrating in the colas.. she seems to be growing.. happy days

ACTUALIZACIONES A DIARIO!! Miles de gracias al equipo de Royal Queen Seeds y a @James por proponerme esta aventura tan trepidante y poder conocer de cerca las nuevas F1 y sobre todo a la gran Titan F1. Espero que lo disfruteis y os sirva como referencia. ¿Qué piensas cuando lees la palabra “Titán”? Hay quienes la asocian con los hijos de Urano de la mitología griega. Otros saben que Titán es la luna más grande de Saturno. ¿Y entre los cultivadores de hierba? Estas personas reconocen a la Titan F1 como una variedad de marihuana con una genética de vanguardia. Se trata de uno de los primeros híbridos F1 autoflorecientes, y es una variedad pionera que ofrece productividad, resistencia y algo completamente nuevo. La Titan F1 deleitará tu olfato durante la fase de floración y más allá. Esta variedad autofloreciente ofrece un potente perfil de terpenos compuesto principalmente por mirceno, farneseno, ocimeno, pineno, bisabolol y limoneno. Gracias a MarsHydro 😊🙏 por darme la mejor luz que hay en el mercado. La marca numero uno en focos 💡, carpas de cultivo ⛺️, extractores 🌬️ y demás aparatos que necesitas para tu cultivo. Para esta aventura arrancaremos con 💡Mars Hydro TS 1000 Full Spectrum LED Grow Light 150W Regulable y 1 semilla autofloreciente a un ciclo de 20/4. Verdaderos 150w con este TS1000, la mejor luz de cultivo LED para principiantes. Ofrece una luz adecuada para 2-4 plantas 🌱. Su precio razonable, la marcada mejora del rendimiento y el control variable de la producción la hacen amigable para los nuevos cultivadores. Todo un tesoro para cualquier cultivador que este comenzando. Usaremos para esta aventura una carpa de 60x60x90, MarsHydro una carpa para los más exigentes.Con una solapa de cremallera mejorada, dobles cremalleras de metal con forro,reflectante diamante tipo Mylar, postes de metal para una estructura mas solida, no se puede pedir nada mas. Garantizando una respuesta en solo 24 horas tanto si has usado antes la marca como si no. 🌻🚀 Consigue tus semillas aqui: https://www.royalqueenseeds.es/semillas-de-marihuana-hibridas-f1/624-titan-f1.html 💡 MarsHydro TS1000: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PLY1WKK ⛺️ 60 x 60 x 90 MarsHydro: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081PN2QDN/ Primera semana de floracion, las ramas laterales han comenzado a estirar y se muestran las primeras preflores, es una planta muy compacta y he tenido que quitar alguna hoja baja para evitar la aparicion de algun hongo. Es la genetica que mejor ha respondido, por no decir la mejor. Felicidades Royal Queen Seeds y MarsHydro 😁 📅 Dia 21: Descanso 📅 Dia 22: Riego con nutrientes EC 400, esta Titan F1 crece por momentos, creo que voy a tener que sacar una del armario porque no van a entrar, me falta espacio 😡 para ver el desarrollo de esta genetica, la proxima vez van a ir en macetas de 17litros. 📅 Dia 23: Descanso, se pueden apreciar cambios notables cada 24 horas, va como un cohete 🚀 📅 Dia 24: Riego con nutrientes EC 350 📅 Dia 25: Descanso 📅 Dia 26: Riego con nutrientes EC 350 📅 Dia 27: Descanso, paso una al armario 12/12, no hay sitio para las dos en este armario. MARSHYDRO necesito algo mas big!!! 😁

She has been doing better then her sister ... pH issue as usual and over watering too , my tent is bigger and I've got the temperature dialed in was at 55 lows and 65 highs for a week which hurt the whole garden a lot .. glad things are better and once it's healthy next week hopefully I'll flip her over to flower and get this show moving along quicker .. thanks for stopping in canna family .. cheers