Esa familia, que tal fue la semana? Para mis cookies gelato fue de 10. Esta variedad de royalqueenseeds es increíble lleva un ritmo espectacular, ese color tan verde, ese esplendor, que con tan solo 14 días de vida ya prometen. . El ph como siempre 5,8 , la temperatura es óptima, en 22/24 grados de media, y la humedad la reduci un poco actualmente está entre el 60/70%. . AgroBeta: 0,8 ml x L Piramid , vía radicular. 0,6 ml x L Growth black line , vía radicular. 0,1 gr x L Cancerbero , vía radicular. 0,1 ml x L Tucán , vía radicular. 0,1 ml x L Flash Root , vía radicular. 0,4 ml x L Great Green , vía foliar. 0,05 ml x L Gold Joker, vía radicular. . Yo creo que no debería de aguantar mucho más para trasplantar, no lo a pedido ninguna, pero pronto tendremos que cambiar la maceta. Un saludo fumetillas que tengáis buena semana.

Such an amazing plant ,the smells coming out of my dry tent is insane i can smell the gg4 over the other 6 stains in there which is insane because i have some f1 strains that are super dank but i think this one beats them!! If your not growing gps's gg4 auto your definitely missing out on something very very special

She coming along nicely and really likes the new light

Gorilla was often relocated..

Grow nutrients have been weaned sour entirely and on full strength bloom nutrients. The plant is a little dense on the left side, but responding well to the AGLEX light and Remo Nutrients. Buds are really packing on the weight, and building lots of trichomes, though mostly all clear heads at this point

Twelfth week and now this is the end. I decided to harvest these days because two weeks have passed since I have increased the amount of water and because the peaks now seem to be in a very good development point. The plant is really spectacular. The flowers are very compact and voluminous, they give off a really intense, citrusy and orange scent. The two main buds are completely equal and measure entirely 50cm. All the rest of the buds have not developed badly either. The amount of pollen is moderately high and you can notice very well a compact layer on all the flowers. As I said I watered the plant with just water all week, increasing the dose more and more to wash the roots completely and be able to harvest the plant. I cut everything and hung it all up in a cabinet where I control the humidity and temperature values and try to keep them stable through an air recirculation system. I hope to have everything almost dry and ready within 10 days to be able to participate in the competition. I really thank Zamnesia very much for the opportunity it has given me and for this wonderful genetics that has made me known. I am very excited about what I have achieved from this growth and what I have learned in all this time. All I need now is to try this wonder!

Week 6 of flowering 10/23/24 Changed nutrients to fit week 6 Buds are getting even bigger and thicker. Defoliated a little. Noticed a PH of 4.8 in runoff, same as the late stage of flower in my previous grow. After lowering feed EC, CalMag on max strength, flushing with 0.8ec nutes for 3 days in a row, nothing changed and PH stayed the same. Read in a forum thread about constant low PH in the rootzone when growing in coco. Got great info about CEC, water, nutrients and little chemistry from a detailed explanation. (https://www.icmag.com/threads/recurring-problem-with-low-ph-in-coco.338385/page-2#post-10843765) Flushed plants with tap water + calmag, PH 6.5. Used 120L total for 4 plants in 2 days. 1st day: flushed after lights on, did not water until 2 hours before lights off and flushed again. Runoff PH went up a little, but not to the correct range. 2nd day: flushed after lights on and checked runoff EC + PH, of each plant. Fortunately, PH got corrected to 5.8, and I returned to automatic watering 4 times a day (with 10%-20% runoff). Thoughts: In the last grow, I thought I had a problem because of salts buildup in the media with constantly low PH in late flower. I didn't fully correct the problem till chop day. Same problem here in the same stage of flower without the salt buildup. After reading every forum I could find about the problem, I understood that my bloom nutes were the main problem because of their chemical composition. The coco ability to exchange ions lead to the low PH in the rootzone. It got worse quickly because I did not use any tap water with the feedings, so the PH could swing easily and drastically without resistance. After I looked online for the T.A. feeding chart, I saw they used TriPart Grow till week 7 of flower, the Nitrogen type they are using will up the PH. CocoForCannabis chart that I'm using, has not enough nitrogen to combat the bloom nutes PH down effect in flower. It gets even worse with RO water because there are no minerals that can resist PH down. Now I'm using 30% tap water with rest RO water, T.A. TriPart feeding chart with calmag and silica. Hopefully I have corrected the problem for the rest of the grow. It wasn't easy, because there were lots of variables that worsened the problem quickly. Now I'm checking runoff PH and EC daily. Update on next week :)

Day16 since flip: A good growth week for the stretching girls.There have been no issues with them at all and they are feeding well.No signs of any deficiency still and no environment probs. C Banana is stretching to reach the developing canopy well now and has helped form a nice field of buds. She is a very bushy plant below too and has taken to the training out very well. Like her stable mates , she needs a good haircut to get some light to the best looking potential colas and get the air moving within her too. Monster Zkittelz is now certainly getting monstrous, nice thick limbs covered in developing mains , creating a huge bud filled canopy of around 2.5ftx2ft. She is a beautiful plant to look at and will e able.to spread herself nicely at the back of the grow room. She is beginning to match the huge Fast Buds Fast Flowering #7 girl next to her for her dominance too. One to watch here I think. Easy to train and happy to stay put too it seems. Be safe Growmies.

We have seen the sprouts breach the soil this week!!! Not all of them made it unfortunately. 3 of 4 will grow to see the sun, hoping for all females, obviously. Drip system is working well. Nutes to be introduced in a few days once we see some fan leaves develop Animals are leaving the cups alone on account of the chicken wire, so all is good Thanks for looking

This seedling is finally showing signs of a growth spurt. Started with some feeds Bio Bizz Fish Mix is being mixed and trying to keep the Ph to 6.5-6.8

Cruising right along. I bent over the stalk and had to take a couple of the massive leaves off and it’s back up to 12”. I love my new system and the easy maintenance makes it even better.

Ladies have taken off! Finished week 2 with no issues in sight. I’ve been working my yoga poses to get under the scrog to clean and spray some essential oils for pest management. Also added some sticky traps, haven’t seen anything, not even a gnat, but can’t be too careful this time of year. I’ve been pushing her nutrients and got close to 1100 ppm, some slight burn at the tips was noticeable, but nothing else. Did some defoliation and the smells are strong! Perfect terp profile that I’m looking for, Gas, funk and skunk 🇨🇦❤️🌱😎💨 Happy Growing!

Всем привет! Моему малашу сегодня 11 дней. Выглядит здоровым и счасиливым. Поливаю водой, ни чем не кормлю Признаков болезни и нехватки элементов не замечено! Всем и мира и добра!

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 👉SHES READY TO BE CHOPPED IN THE NEXT DAY OR TWO👈 Growing in a 11 ounce pot 👈 👀 👀 👈 Growmies we are at DAY 63 and she's just killing💀it👌 TALK ABOUT FROSTY 👈 Amazing results thus far for the Tiny Pot 😀 👉Added straws within the Tiny pot to help watering in week 4 👈 So I'm starting to see she needs watering every single day and now need nutrients 🙃 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 WATERING SINGLE TO TWICE DAILY 😋 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈 JUST KNOW EVERY COMMENT AND OR LIKES IS MUCH APPRECIATED

Semaine 2 de floraison les plantes se développement bientôt le strech entrenoeud court idéal pour le SOG.

Just water and honey for last few days. I washing my babies with water and honey. Finaly fnishing this project very proud. It finished. Trimming time next few days

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

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