😶

Rainbow Saltz from lit farms is another winner. It has larger solid nugs too to bottom very round golf balls size nugs probably slightly larger than golf balls. Very uniform strong growth with soild stems that can easily hold its own without an any steaks or tying. The plant doesn’t have the strongest smell yet although it is a lot plant. So I do expect it to have good smell b4 all is said and done. It doesn’t have super dense tricombs quite yet. It seems to have smaller tricomb heads usually when they have small tricomb heads they end up just having a bunch of tricombs. I like how soild the plant is it has potential to breed with a super dank plant.

Leaves leaves lots of leaves Trim took a while so plan accordingly Growing is easy really easy no issues The strain does seem to be able to grow well on lower nuets than we used, maybe 10-20% less. Bea dry yield 255 grams fixed the video Hero dry yield 271 grams 526 total

Only got to start this diary on the third day of germination after I’ve moved the seeds from the toilet paper wrapping to plastic cups.

Week 26 Sweet Love is ready for harvest. Part of Spicy CBD plant 1 is also ready. Spicy CBD plant 2 is a few weeks away. Plants are developing differently on different parts. I think I may explain it a little better with a video. Temperature is back to normal hot with humid air. Humidity and VPD: Hottest part of the day during the week; 34 degree C, Humidity 64%, VPD 1.9 Coolest part of the night during the week; 24 degree C, Humidity 73%, VPD 0.8 62 days of flowering for Spicy CBD plant 1. One branch looks ready. And is dripping wet. However, trichome is still clear and just start to get cloudy. And I have started to trim off the bigger fan leaves. I think next week will be a good time to harvest for this branch. Another branch still looks like it has a few more weeks to go. 50 days of flowering for Sweet Love. Sweet Love is small. The buds looks fluffy and light. Does not look like she would yield much. The smell is very much green mango with a hint of pepper spice. Pulled off fan leaves. On some part, trichome is ready. On most of the plant, buds are ready. I'll throw away the part that is not ready. I don't think they'll do much any more. And Sweet Love is in the shadow of Spicy CBD. 50 days of flowering for Spicy CBD plant 2. One branch looks good. A few more weeks for buds to ripen. The other branch is still young with hardly any flower. Light Feeding with yoghurt and molasses to encourage potency. A dose of light compost tea and another dose of potassium salt to help ripen flower. Bugs and mold are in check. VPD is down a bit but I don’t see a need to spray anti-mold microbes with such fluffy buds. Feeding summary Monday evening – Compost tea ( 1.5 ml / liter compost tea + 1.5 ml/liter humic acid). Tuesday evening – Yoghurt ratio ( 1 liter yoghurt to 5 liter of water) Wednesday evening – Molasses ( 2.5 ml / liter). Thursday – none Friday evening. 1.5 ml/liter compost, 0.5 gram / liter potassium salt, 0.5 ml cal mag.

- 3rd round of veg nutes; doubling last weeks and upping cal mag from 2.5 to 3 - Bucket has 3.75 gal of water in it - First defoliation. Learned I should have cut more bottom leaves since I ended up doing that down the line anyway - Trying to keep humidity between 55-65%

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

All going extremely well in the room. No problems. Purple punch is just starting to fade 20.4.23 Filled tank with winter frost 23gal Ec 0.8 Ph5.9 Outside pineapple chunk Looking lovely. 17.4.23 3L watered on top with 15ml bio heaven 12ml top max Then put 750ml plain water on top 21.4.23 Started feeding winter frost Ec6.4 no ph down

Week 16 - 06/28 - 07/04 Light - 200 W HPS & 265 W LED Day Temperature - 78 F Night Temperature - 68 F Humidity - 40 +/-5 D59 Flower - Came home from vacation to some fat sugar coated buds! I flushed them with FloraKleen and molasses, this should be the last one before I snip down the main colas. Since they are close to harvest, I spent about an hour defoliating so harvest will go a little quicker. D60 Flower - So I pulled the ladies out to breathe, take pics, and to do a partial harvest. I cut the main colas off of all the plants and am allowing the lower bud sites to dense up. Until I harvest the lower part, here is the wet weight by plant: RG 1 - 177 g. RG 2 - 214 g. RG Clones - 88

Week 11 (26-8 to 1-9) 26-8 Temps: 20.5 to 26.1 degrees Humidity: 50% to 56% 27-8 Temps: 20.7 to 27.3 degrees Humidity: 50% to 56% Watering: Both 1500 ml. (Only Calcium) EC: 0.4 PH: 5.6 Dry Weight: Both 2.7 kg. 28-8 Temps: 21.5 to 28 degrees Humidity: 51% to 56% 29-8 Temps: 23.3 to 27.4 degrees Humidity: 55% to 62% 30-8 Temps: 19.9 to 27.7 degrees Humidity: 50% to 60% 31-8 Temps: 20.2 to 26.6 degrees Humidity: 50% to 55% 1-9 Temps: 21.1 to 29.1 degrees Humidity: 49% to 55% Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.4 PH: 5.6 Dry Weight: Both 2.4 kg. Recalibrated my PH pen and it was only 0.1 off, so i dont think the leaf problems are PH related.

Can't keep up with defoliation once the autopots kick inn, best room upgrade ever. The Cuppa T was the biggest plant before the other four went in their autopots. Just pH water this week and a foliar feed with my KNF FAA, WCAP and LAB. Flowering start on the 29th under the new Lumatek Attis 300w

This is the 8th week. Thursday will be 9 weeks of 12/12. Some trichs are amber. They just added a good bunch of girth over the past few days, but most of the pistils are red now. The rest of them have been dropping leaves consistenly but the canopy remains full so they must be putting out more leaves. I just flushed to 80% runoff and found out that I had 1200ppm. I just got an ec meter but my last reading said closer to 600 so idk what happened there. I flushed until I had runoff ppm of about 150. Now they're back in the grow tent. I don't want to keep assaulting them with my microscope. I think they're ready. Just gonna let them settle another day or two to dry out a bit. I took one small branch off the small Wedding Cake plant on Thursday and I've just been watching it dry on my counter. It's been 5 days and the stem snaps but still leaves a fiber connecting. I put it into a small jar with a 64RH thing. I just want to try it. It already smells amazing. The leaves on the big CBD Blue Shark plant are going really yellow and some other colours are starting to come out as well. The buds all fattened up and got more frosty again. I was worried they were foxtailing but they got more calyxes underneath the peaks and have been making more of a pyramid shape. They're really close to peak. Harvest day will be March 17 or 18. March 17 1023pm chopped and hung after lights off all day. RH was 65% before I chopped and 50% after I closed the window and cut the plants off the saturated pots. I did a wet trim to prevent mold. The buds are sticky af. Gonna hang them to dry for 7-9 days before curing in jars :) March 18 : checked the RH when I woke up and it's chilling at 45% 😎 March 19 : just checked to see how they were drying. There are seeds in every plant. RIP I'll update when I put them in jars and again a few weeks later for final review. Overall it was a good grow despite the rocky start and a good introduction to the mainline technique and my new grow space. Next grow I should have everything pretty well dialed in. March 23 They were hanging for 3 days. Rh was around 45, then spiked to 65 overnight when I forgot to turn the fans back on. Temp was high at around 26.they felt wet after 2 days, and bone dry after 4 days. The stems still didn't snap but I put them in jars anyway. A day later, jar RH was 50%. I burped all the jars and there was a smell from the new jars. I took all the weed out, washed out the jars, and did a dry trim on the weed. One of the Wedding Cake plants must have gone hermie. I didn't see any bananas and didn't even realize there were seeds until the very end. The seed pods looked just like calyxes while the plants were growing. Many of the nugs are unusable. Under the sugar leaves are just layers and layers of seeds. Some weren't hit that badly. The CBD Blue Shark is much better off but still has some seeds. I'm trying to stay positive. It's a bit of a shock though. I'm anxious to try the finished product. If the flowers at least taste good and have a good effect, all is not lost.

Today 7/30/19, day 57 and the start of week 9. I'm still continuing to alternate between days with my pesticide treatment (especially after finding that bug living on one of hulkberries fan leaf) and thrive alive green daily foliage spray as a prophylactic solution against any possible pests or mold going into these last few dog days of veg. I will flush them with distilled ph'd water for two days this weekend in preparation for flower. Then I'll start them on some "flower fuel" bloom booster on top of my secret for success flower recipe at 1/4 of the recommended strength. Outside of that still no adverse issue to report for the end of the 8th week. After my last trim, they both have responded very nicely, I was kind of worried about fat banana stalled growth. But one thing I noticed when I topped her at the 6th node, yes the main stem stopped growing but it developed many bud sites up and down every stem. Whereas hulkberry was topped at the 8th node, she has mainly focused on developing long stems and only 2 or 3 bud sites along her stems. Even though hulkberry in structure, is much bigger than fat banana and has a way bigger root system. Fat banana is bushier and has developed way more bud sites than hulkberry. I can't tell which strain will yield the most at this point only time will tell! Also, a big shout out to "J"@RQS, thank you for the excellent customer service. Another reason why Royal Queen Seeds is top 3 in breeding!!

This strain is so potent u can even smoke the fanleaves 😆

Les dernières semaines s'annonce bien.

All good here. Except for the fact that I might not be LSTing correctly, oh well this is my first grow so...😺👍

Plants getting frosty, buds starting to swell.

Harvested the second plant. She was smaller bud her buds were STACKED. She is 164g wet so let's hope for an oz. UPDATE: 1.4oz out of the smaller plant for a total of 3.5 oz for the whole grow. Thanks for following along everyone!

Already showing some flower buds. It's developing well. Did some hard defoliation. smells good

Two of my daughters are ready to harvest, so I'll harvest them first, and my retarded daughter will get another week or two, but unfortunately her buds are not growing very well, something went wrong with her from the beginning. I think I've messed up the nutrients once, and I gave her Green Sensation when she was just starting flowering. This could cause nutrient lockout. The strange fact about her is that she looks ugly, but she smells incredibly intensively. From now on I am only flushing her. In the worst case she will be perfect material for some top quality cannabutter. :)