The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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En la semana 14 de floracion se ha hecho más notoria la sobrefertilizacion pasada, ya que las hojas siguieron su curso y se han puesto crujientes, amarillas, al punto de que las amarillas entre los cogollos las he sacado, para que no se formen moho o algun hongo que arruine este proceso largo,por ende toda la planta se ha quedado casi sin hojas, entonces me surgen un montón de dudas con respecto a como proceder en estas semanas finales, me inclino por empezar con el lavado de raíces en la entrante semana 15, para así dar el corte final en la semana 17, según lo que aconseja el banco,(suelo darle 2 semanas más de floración, de las recomendaciones q brinda el bereber, aunque en esta ocasión, no lo considero posible). También ha sido notoria la formación de la famosa, cola de zorro ,en algunos de los cogollos, (esto tiene relacion con el Stress que sufre una planta), una sobrefertilizacion es considerado algo stresante para una planta de marihuana.En otros casos la cola de zorro, también es una característica de algunas geneticas. En las fotos principales de dicha genetica se pueden observar estos detalles, pero bueno,todo va salir bien✈️😎😅👺
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Bud structure nothing like I’ve ever seen before, looking healthy And frosty though. Looks close to being ready too, will be checking the trichomes. It’s showing a super high caylax to leaf ratio. Phenotype? Not sure. Next to no nutrients during this grow.
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@CanOli95
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Bud development is really nice. Now you can clearly see purple buds, starting to produce a layer of resin. The purple from spreads from the inside to the sugar leaves, leaving a nice colour. The smell to this point, is not that strong. But she smells like a doughy overripe fruit, very sweet, but not yet like a cherry. I'm excited to see, how it's gonna turn out in the end. She is not a thirsty plant and is not asking for a lot of nutrients. I just added a small mixture of bloom fertilizer, just to prevent deficiency symptoms. O guess she will take another 5 to 6 weeks, to become fully ripened. So far the plant is really easy to handle , just don't overfeed her and she is running on her own.
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Sooo today on 04.04.2025 I harvested the 2 Plants that were left. Runtz Automatic by Zamnesia Plant 1: ~400 gram wet 1x Topping 2x Schwazzing heavy LST though Scrog netting The Bud structure pretty dense and big buds thoughout, almost zero small popcorn nuggets! Smell is Citrus Bubbelgum 9/10 Plant 2: ~360 gram wet NO Topping 2x Schwazzing heavy LST though Scrog netting The Bud structure is dense, it does have some very Big buds, but also a lot of small popcorn buds. The smell is Citrus Buggelgum 8/10 And just remember guys, those plants were all grown in 5 Liter Pods (1,5 Gallon)!!! I will post updates once Product is dry. Thanks for the love everyone!
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En principio puse 19 semillas en tierra directa, pero una de las OG kush no ha salido, tampoco está tan mal de 19 que falle una y haciéndolo en tierra directa que al final es más arriesgado pero es una manía!! El día que pierda mi dinero en semillas que no salen ya no lo haré más, de momento lo sigo haciendo tentando mi suerte!
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BUENOS DÍAS familia , ya es viernes y toca actualizar semana. Las lemon kush empiezan apestar, entramos en la recta final, veremos cómo engordan estas últimas semanas. Hemos bajado la humedad hasta 45% y la temperatura bajo algo también, lo cual tampoco es malo. Aplicaremos algo de PK en polvo para endurecer las flores estas ultimas semanas. Os dejo una serie de fotos y vídeos para que contempléis la evolución de las flores.
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@BC_Green
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It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil
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Bewässerung: 30000 ml jeden 3 Tag in der vierundzwanzigsten Woche pH-Wert: 6,3 EC-Wert: 1,6 mS/cm Temperatur: 24ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit: 60% Schädlingsbekämpfung: Raubmilben Düngemittel: Sie bekommen ab jetzt Brenneseljauche da sie im Outdoor Bereich ist. Besonderheiten: Der Boden um den still herum wurde mit Holzasche behandelt gegen Meltau. -Tag 157 Sie will einfach nicht Fertig werden, Ihre Buds werden zwar immer dichter aber noch lange nicht fertig, so wie es heute aussieht dauert es noch minimal 3 Wochen oder 4 -Tag 159 sie wächst weiter und die Blüten werden immer dichter, manche bekommen leider Schimmel diese schneiden wir dann ab 😩
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@Dunk_Junk
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She's getting closer to the end. More orange pistils. Still a few weeks away though.
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@mehdi
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i dont know how long time i must wait to they are rdy to cut
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This is another strain that is going full force and in both technical/free versions, we are talking about the Zookies Automatic by Zamnesia. Remember that we are growing a plant worked with the techniques indicated and another left to grow without pruning to preserve its speed; in the previous/next diary you will find the other plant of the same variety. In this diary we find a plant worked with a precise and punctual Main Lining: We have a topping at the third internode, an accompaniment of the growing branches towards the third internode and then toppiong again, everything lowered well with our metal arches. I saw the side branches go very high and I topped again to have more branches at the end, everything very clean underneath. Comparison is the salt of the experience, so the plant in the other diary will be treated very differently, go and see it to make a comparison. We started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is made up of recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhizae Mix (4 g in the mix, 1 g under the small fiber pot). In the middle of the week the pre-flowering started so I decided to start the program for this phase: 1 ml/l of Power Roots - 1 ml/l of Pure Zym - 1 ml/l of Sugar Royal - 1 ml/l of Power Buds - 4 ml/l of Alga Bloom Remember the Green Sensation from the 3rd/4th week of flowering depending on the flowering speed or how you see the calyxes composing, when the calyx is in the swelling phase it is used. We sprayed 5 ml/l of Vita Race foliar fertilizer once a week. ------------------------------------------------- https://plagron.com/it We always have the excellent RQS mycorrhizae running through the soil. https://www.zamnesia.io/it/5778-mix-micorrhiza-easy-roots.html Is a top strain of the last few years very high level of thc ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/it/11174-zamnesia-seeds-zookies-auto.html Brief description of Zamnesia // The result of the cross between Animal Cookies, GG#4 and ruderalis, this compact variety produces top quality buds, maintaining all the charm of a modern US hybrid. Thanks to the hard work of the Zamnesia genetics team, Zookies Automatic is easy to grow, fast flowering and exceptionally vigorous. Regardless of whether you grow indoors, outdoors or in a greenhouse, if you are looking for a stable autoflowering strain that is quick to harvest, Zookies Automatic is definitely the one for you. Like all Zamnesia autoflowers, Zookies Auto promises rapid harvests of top-quality bud with minimal effort. And she delivers on that promise. After germination, Zookies Automatic plants grow vigorously for around 3–4 weeks. At the end of the pre-flowering phase, plants typically reach a height of between 90–110cm, depending on the size of the pot. The whole world of cultivation and much more is on Zamnesia: just take a look at the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. --------------- www.zamnesia.com