🌿🌸 Week 4 Flowering Update! 🌸🌿 We have officially entered week 4 of the flowering phase, a crucial period where things can get a little nerve-wracking. However, I'm happy to share that everything is looking great so far! 🎉 First off, let me express my relief that I haven't encountered any hermaphroditism issues like some unfortunate growers have experienced. I've been extra vigilant in checking my plants for any signs of bananas or seeds, and thankfully, all is going smoothly on that front. Fingers crossed, and let's hope it stays that way. 🤞 Now, let's talk about the progress of these beauties. The plants are thriving, exhibiting vigorous growth and magnificent stretching. 🌱✨ Maintaining the well-being of my plants remains my top priority. They're displaying a healthy thirst, as each plant continues to drink around 2 liters of water every two days. I've been closely monitoring the pH level of the nutrient solution, which has been steady at 6.11. This ensures optimal nutrient uptake and keeps the plants in their prime condition. Moreover, the TDS range is consistently between 1050 and 1150, providing them with the ideal nutrient balance. ⚖️💧 Speaking of the plants, I must mention how amazing they smell! The aroma is becoming more intense with each passing day. Today, I conducted a smell test for the OG and Oreo strains. The OG emitted a super strong smell of OG/Skywalker, while the Oreo strain has a unique and captivating scent that is difficult to describe but absolutely amazing. I can't wait to smoke that one! Tomorrow, I'll do a smell test for the Queen strain as well. 🌿👃🔥 As we progress through this crucial stage, I'll continue to provide the best care possible to ensure a successful harvest. Today (Day 22) marks the last day of foliar feeding with Bud Factor X, an essential step to maximize THC development and quality. This phase demands attention to detail and careful observation. 👀🌿💦 That wraps up this week's update, fellow growers! Keep your fingers crossed for a smooth journey ahead, and may your own gardens thrive. 🤞🌿🌸 Happy growing, lads! 🌱💚

i looked awesome all growcycle...i streched alot & i noticed it drank alot more then the other plants while growing...had a good yield, i´m very happy overall

Una semana mas me quedo sorprendido de lo rapido que ha vuelto a ser una selva...🤣 Tube que doblar la mas alta de la mesa A porque tocaba el foco, se recupera bien, pero no entiendo que a dia de hoy sigan creciendo en altura, porque y es demasiado i me quedo sin espacio. He incrementado el riego de tres fases y de 3’ a 5’ para ver si la misma velocidad ee crecimento lo hace en floración.

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05/27/2021 Its been a while but all is well, the red light only seems to have encouraged lots of new growth. But I think I'm going to stick with 25-50% blue spectrum and 100% red for the finish. I'm kind of disappointed that she has no distinguishing smell, but she was bred for resistance to PM specifically. All the good stuff will come once i have stabilized consistent PM resistance. (Work in progress) Then the good stuff will be worked in..... If needed. Ps. I do believe it will likely be 12+ weeks of flowering to finish (Hope she has a racy/trippy sativa side) fingers crossed🙏

4/6 Woke to see two seedlings have lost their shell. Only one had a weird long curvy taproot that has come out of the soil. I'm not sure if I should perform surgery or just wait it out. I mean I can see the seed on top and the cotylden leaves. It's like it dips and can't hold the seedling up. The other mk ultra popped excellently and another has the seed visible. I'll do some research but I'm now doing away with peat pellets and going right into soil from now on. It seems like these just cause problems. The seedlings under the hps are doing better. I think it was smart to switch the light. I can see what MIGHT ve burns on a couple seedlings and TWO haven't developed there true leaves or are very stunted. So if those three don't make it ill be replacing them with the ones I just popped. I may pop tge other two mk ultra but more likely I'll wait the three days until my 10th planet comes. I took apart some of the sour cherry seedlings just to see how they were growing. Makes me feel better as it might not look that great on top but they were working on developing roots. I'll update later. I've got a lot going on in my life but I need to make sure I take care of my seedlings. 4/7 Pretty sure I watered today. I'll have to check but I know I did. Things are going better. I think that bigger light stunted them. The 2 mk ultra and 1 chem dog #4 sprouted and were in peat pellets. I transplanted them into solo cups with happy frog and put them on the outskirts of the light. I thought i might've lost one because the taproot came out of the ground and bent. I'm suprised it came out of it to be honest. And fast too! My Etho's 10th planet came so I'm thinking of popping a couple of those as well. They won't be stunted and this strain has done the best by me. 4/8 WATERED EVERYTHING WITH A SHOT GLASS BESIDES THE FRESH TRANSPLANTS. Forgot my water yesterday so I'll pop a couple 10th planet today. I MIGHT not lose any seedlings. They seem to be coming out of being stunted. The ones that WERE stunted anyway. However there are a couple I'm not sure of. Better safe than sorry. I'm getting excited. I'm going to bring the other hps light to my cousin and he'll fix it quick. That way I might not even need to switch to the L.E.D (that I'm not as familiar with.) I'm sure it will be fine either way. Clones did great under the l.e.d. I think it's just a bit much for seedlings. Which is strange since they sprout under the sun? I have the least experience dealing with seedlings as I usually but clones. I forgot to take pictures too. I have to go back over and ill take some. ADDED A FEW PICTURES AND POPPED 2 ETHO'S 10TH PLANET SEEDLINGS. THIS WAY I CAN SAVE A FEW AND ILL HAVE MOST OF KY BEANS FOR NEXT YEAR. IVE GOT A BUNCH OF AUTOS TOO BUT IVE NEVER GROWN ONE. ONCE THINGS SETTLE DOWN AND AFTER THIS SEASON I MAY TRY MY HAND AT INDOOR AND THOSE AUTOS WOULD BE GREAT FOR THAT. NOT SURE IF I SHOULD START A SEPERATE DIARY FOR THE 10TH PLANET OR JUST KEEP GOING HERE. IF I DID IT WOULD BE A SINGLE STRAIN DIARY SO I COULD ENTER CONPETITIONS. BUT DO I REALLY WANT TOO? 4/9 DIDN'T WATER. MISTED THE TOP OF THE FRESH TRANSPLANTS. HAVENT CHECKED THE 10TH PLANET BEANS YET. ITS NOT TIME. I may end up losing a couple seedlings. I'm not sure. They may just be stunted bit I could've damaged them when I removed the seed from the seedling. Only time will tell. That's why I popped the two 10th planet beans so even of I lose a couple seedlings, I'll have what I need for the year. It's like those couple are growing taller but the true leaves had barely formed and don't seem to be getting any bigger. They probably got burned and stunted. I'll monitor them. CHECKED THE 10TH PLANET AROUND NOONTIME. WASN'T THINKING AND IT HADN'T BEEN 24HRS AND ETHOS SAYS TO WAIT 36 HOURS BEFORE CHECKING. BOTH SEEM TO BE VIABLE SEEDS ONE HAS A TAPROOT AND THE OTHER HAS SPLIT OPEN. I'VE LEARNED MY LESSON AND IM GOING TO GIVE THEM ANOTHER 24 HOURS. NEXT YEAR IM GOING TO INVEST IN A HEATING PAD FOR SEEDLINGS. Edit: What a change in weather from two years ago. I got that intuition feeling so I went to check the girls. They seem to be stretching but not NEARLY as much and are now getting some leaf growth. They were all within 10 grams of dry soil weight save for one that is a larger plant. That was 217. Everything got watered with a shot glass and the soil slowly soaked it up. I even had to water the fresh transplants. They have grown to the top of the cups! I filled in the Ched dog #4 with soil and watered. The mk ultra is larger and the soil was a little chilly. I put a little under the light to warmup so I can fill in the other two plants. Man I feel better seeing them out of their slump. I never should've started with that 1000 watt led without testing it. No matter what the box says. I'll take pics tomorrow. 4/10 Had a crazy morning. Didn't take pictures as it was a hurried morning. I filled the 2 mk ultra cups with soil and watered a shotglass. Looking at the first series of seeds I started, (the pink kush and special kush #1) two of the 3 seedlings that are stunted SEEM like they might make it. I might cull them anyway if growth doesnt pick up with the others. I'll see what happens. The first true leaves are coming apart when the were straight up amd stuck together. They looked done for. Luckily we have SUCH a long veg season that even if something is stunted, we have time for it to come out of it. If it will. Things are going well since switching to the hps light. I noticed some slight yellowing on the Chem dog's first true leaves, so I pulled the tray away from the light a little bit. The two mk ultras in the same tray are fine though. I may start a new diary for the tenth planet. Not sure but the 2 seeds attempted germinated and had a nice taproot. I transplanted them DIRECTLY into solo cups with a little Happy Frog soil and Myko's and slightly covered them before misting the tops. I cut a powerade bottle in half and it fits IN the cup perfectly a humidity dome. I misted the tops as well and put them under the asrgarden light until they break ground and get their true leaves. Man I can't wait. I know it's been a rough year for EVERYONE but I've had some particularly difficult situations. Can't wait for this season to start. Next time I go over I'll get some pictures but nobody really wants to see seedlings. They pretty much all look the same. At least I learned something. Oh and I took apart all the sour cherry seedlings that were growing and dissected them and found why a couple had problems. Seedlings are what I have the least experience with so when my whole pack didn't pop I wanted to see if it was me but it wasn't. All those other beans popped and I got some hands on experience dealing with seedlings so maybe a blessing in disguise!. EDIT: WENT OVER AND CHECKED THE PLANTS. I WEIGHED THEM AND I ASSUME THEY WILL NEED WATER TOMORROW. I DID WATER 3 I THINK AS THEY WERE UNDER 200 AND HAD BIGGER PLANTS. EXCEPT THE ONE THAT LOOKS THE WORST. THAT SEEMS TO DRINK A LOT OF WATER. I THINK THAT MIDDLE ROW (2 SPECIAL KUSH 1 PINK KUSH) WERE STUNTED. HOWEVER, I CAN'T SEE WHATS UNDER THE SOIL AND THEY ARE GROWING TALKER AND DRINKING. THE TRUE LEAVES THAT ARE TINY AND LOOKED DONE FOR ARE PARTING AND THOSE PLANTS ARE STILL STRETCHING. I'M TRYING TO LOOK AT MY LAST DIARY I DID SEEDS WITH AND AM TRYING TO REPLICATE IT. ONLY THIS TINE WHILE I AM REDOING MY HOUSE AND MOVING AS WELL AS BEING A MEDICAL CARE GIVER. ENOUGH OF THAT. THE SNOW IS GONE. ITS A LITTLE DISCOURAGING LOOJING AT SMALL SEEDLINGS INSTEAD OF BIG CLONES BUT BY THE END OF THE SUMMER THE SEEDS WILL SURPASS ANY CLONE I BOUGHT AND I WONT HAVE TO DEAL WITH ALL THE PROBLEMS THAT CONE WITH CLONES. I NEED TO EMPTY AND CLEAN MY BAGS AND CLEAN AND STERILIZE MY GROW AREA. I ALSO NEED TO POISON THE CAGE AND BLOW ALL ORGANIC MATERIAL OUT AND POISON THE STRUCTURE ITSELF. 4/11 Seedlings are doing ok. I'm wondering if I should put up the other hps as thats what I did the year before when I did seeds. However they weren't "stressed" or "stunted." I think I MAY lose one but the other two had the true leaves stuck together and looked crispy. They've since started to open and I can see new growth. Other seedlings seem to be taking off and finally developing some leaves. The 2 mk ultra and 1 chem dog #4 didn't experience that other light and they seem to be doing great! Checked the 10th planet and one seed is poking out of the ground. I can't see the other one yet but it was a little further behind and I may have sowed it deeper. WATERED everything but the mk ultra and chemdog. I just misted the top of the soil. 4/12 WATERED ALL THE KUSH WiTH A SHOT GLASS. The mk ultra and chem dog didn't need it. Weighed cups and the lowest was 199 to about 207. The three stunted or (damaged) plants seem to be coming out of it. At least new growth is coming and they are drinking just as much as their siblings. I'll play it by ear and see how it goes. The jumped in size just since this morning bit phone was dead. Both 10th planet are now showing in the soil! Things are going good. I'm stoked!

Dear Friends, 👨‍🌾 👩‍🌾 White russian by Seeds Mafia is growing sooooo strong 27/11 transplanted into 15L smart pot ✅ VEGETATIVE week #5 📅this week goes from 12/12 to 18/12.📅 💡💡💡Viparspectra XS2000 is working at 50% power. 💉🔍Fertilization schedule:🔍💉 14/12 eposom salts 2g/l foliar and 1g/l irrigation WE ARE BACK!!! We are back after a little pause. We take a break because we were too busy to post high quality diaries. In the last diaries we tried to post as good as possible and we have to publish about 6 or 8 diaries (in addition to these that we will publish shortly). We opened also an educational Instagram page, we growed a lot in a short amount of time BUT, Instagram suspended our account and we lost all our posts, I was so sad and disappointed... a lot of work lost in a night.... Now we started a new grow with six awesome strains!!!!! In this diary you will see our journey with White Russian by our friends Seeds Mafia, sit down and enjoy the show! We are growing in a 15L Smart Pot with Light Mix soil by BioBizz White Russian Feminized was obtained by crossing the AK-47 and White Widow varieties, it has a very short flowering period of 55-65 days. It is especially recommended for outdoor cultivation, such as France and Spain, although it may also adapt to indoors and greenhouses. The harvest flavor is relatively intense during the growth and flowering period. These seeds give excellent plants, both as appearance and effect. The plant has a medium height, it is robust, thick and dense, with flowers full of resin (the crystals occur about 5 weeks after flowering). Having a 22% THC content, White Russian is one of the most popular and potent marijuana varieties. As a result, this strain has a very strong, intense, lasting and rather mind effect 💸💸💸💸💸 Here you can buy seeds of this top shelf strain: https://seedsmafia.com/en/feminized-cannabis-seeds/white-russian-feminized-.html _____________________________________________________________________ 🔧💡OUR SET UP💡🔧 ✔️ 💲💲💲VIPARSPECTRA 🚀🚀🚀🌕🌕 ViparSpectra®️ XS2000 240W Infrared Full Spectrum LED Grow Light: Excellent ratio between wattage and ppfd, excellent light penetraton, perfect light spectrum (it also has IR 🤩) and it has the best build quality on the market. Until now, built quality is really awesome. You can touch that quality. Materials are really strong, excellent driver and the best leds on the market. Heat dissipation is perfect, the lamp is never too hot and it has a passive dissipator so you will have zero noise. It also has IP65 certification. I like that this lamp is bigger than others, so the 240w of power are well distribuited on the space. Viparspectra has an awesome customer service, and shipping was creazy fast! This awesome brand also offers 3 years warranty. This lamp has no rivals. A special thanks to Emily of Viparspectra ❤️❤️❤️❤️ HERE YOU CAN BUY THIS PROFESSIONAL LIGHT: https://www.viparspectra.com/products/xs-series-xs2000 or https://amzn.to/3dyUoJl and here you can buy other awesome stuff: https://www.viparspectra.com ✔️ 💲💲💲MARSHYDRO 🚀🚀🚀🌕🌕 📦120X120 GROW TENT: an awesome box, easy and fast to assembly. Made by strong materials, solid zips and it is totally lightproof. The position of holes is optimal and the two lateral windows will make easier the work inside the box. There is also a double end, so you are 100% sure that dirt or liquids will not spill out. You can find it here: https://www.mars-hydro.com/grow-tent/buy-mars-hydro-grow-tent-48x48x80-1680d-4-x-4-size-keeps-all-light-in-top-quality-1680d-canvas-is-tear-proof-and-double-stitched-light-blocking-fast-installation-for-sale 💡TS 600 FULL SPECTRUM 100W LED GROW LIGHT : with this light you will achieve excellent buds, you will not need anything more. This lamp replace a 150w HPS lamp, but, with this Led Light you will smoke bigger, harder and tastier buds because Led have a complete spectrum and a powerful light penetration, so your plants will work as much as possible to make you happy. Psssssss it it extremely cheap and it is only 100w, your bills will never be too high, YOU HAVE NO EXCUSES!! Here if you want this little beast: https://www.mars-hydro.com/led-grow-light/mars-ts-series-led-grow-light/mars-tsw-600-led-full-spectrum-hydroponic-led-grow-light Thank you Eleen of Marshydro❤️❤️❤️❤️ 💣Quantum board - 480w - 4x120w Boards by Zhoangshan Koray Opto-Electronic Ltd. Samsung LM301B 288 led/board 3000K 0dB noise +24led/board led Osram 660nm Efficiency 2.6 umol/J 220 lm/w Driver: Meanwell HLG-480H-36B 💣Quantum board - 240w - 2x120w Boards by Shenzen Yuanhui Led Ltd. Samsung LM301H 504 led 3500K 0dB noise +24led/board led Osram 660nm Efficiency 2.7 umol/J 220 lm/w Driver: Meanwell HLG-240H-48B -ESTRACTION FAN: Blauberg 125 Turbo Pro Series Maximum air flow: 430-560 m³ / h 50W 32-44 dBA -FANS: A)OSCILLATING FAN D.15cm 2 speeds 20w B) COMPUTER FAN Sunon DP200A – 230V 20w (Strong, reliable and quiet) C)Cornawall Electronics Multifan Turbo, three speeds, can be used both on support surfaces and mounted on the wall. High capacity, about 740 m3 / h. High silence and reliability. 💊💉💊FEEDINGS: We used BioBizz light Mix TOP CROP: -DEEPER UNDERGROUND: to stimulate roots system -TOP VEG: for a excellent growth in the vegetative phase -GREEN EXPLOSION: to promote creation of bud sites and to allow a faster growth -MICRO VITA: bacterias for equilibrate the soil and to make the plant healty -BIG ONE: to stimulate bud sites and to stimulate resin production -TOP BLOOM: to achieve excellent big and hard buds -TOP CANDY: to feed the buds with molasses for a tastier smoke and to gain weight -TOP BUD: to enlarge buds and to gain weight PLAGRON: PK 13-14 to have big and hard buds and to feed plants with lower effort ADVANCED NUTRIENTS: Sensi Cal-Mag Extra-> for cal mag deficiency GROTEK: CAL MAG for cal mag deficiency HESI: PowerZyme to clean and balance the soil. It feeds the plant cleaning the soil. GHE: - Final Part (ex Ripen) accelerate the final flowering phase, dissolves minerals in excess - Flash Clean to flush the plant and to be sure that all excesses are out from plant and pot These two products improve A LOT the smoke of our babies -PURPINATOR to stimulate flavonoids and to have a better taste and smell. ____________________________________________________________________________________________ 🙏❤️ THANK YOU FOR BEING HERE ❤️🙏 Please leave a comment with your opinions, it is very important to us to have a comparison. If you like our job, tap the weed button and follow us. It will be really appreciated.🙏 We want to thank again everyone that help us in our project. You support us to support our dream. ❤️ SPREAD THE LOVE OF THIS PLANT ALL AROUND THE WORLD 🌿Thank you again🌿 ❤️Sweet hugs❤️ 👨‍🌾CHILLING_RACOONS👩‍🌾

3/14 Random hot day here, lights on temps ran upto 88 for about a half hour, when I got here I increased fan speed and got temps stabilized at 78. Thankfully I run lights on at night. 3/15 Flushed and hand fed plants tonight mold and hermie check complete. TB and BC really started to fatten up. Used 16oz can to illustrate current growth. (label hidden, not intentionally trying to advertise, can remove pics if not in compliance) 3/19 GSC cola starting to fatten up, some of the hairs on all but GSC are starting to yellow. 3/20 BC main cola is 75% cloudy, no signs of ambers. Breeder says 10 weeks cumulative life span but i think she will run 80 to 90. TB still a lot of clear probably 85 to 95 days, GG is a wild card sue to her structure, and GSC buds aee swelling. Cold damp weather ahead. Carefullysprayed leaves only down with sm90 as preventative measure. Tomorrow starts week 11

Day 43 and for a plant this age they’re looking well. All other Plants looking all healthy too. Now looking into it i should of done some low stress training. Im having abit of temperature problems but its all good. The max it gets is 29 degrees Celsius.

It's water day, everything is going good, although it smells more citrus the the gass I was hoping for but we shall see how it turns out

The plant on the right appears to be more mature than the others, despite being the smallest of the three. It’s still too early to tell, but the flowers seem like they will be dense and very fruity, judging by their size and the smell that is just beginning to develop.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

So I finished my slow transition to flower yesterday, I increased “night” by 20 min everyday over 21 days to get from 18/6 to 11/13. She’s def stretching but less then would be expected with this strain if it was an abrupt switch. Enjoy and give me a like!!

Cada vez falta menos!! Comienzo la semana con el último riego con fertilizantes y termino la semana con un lavado de raices, dejando en el sustrato un riego en dosis mínima de flawles finish para que en el resto de los días que quedan la planta se dedique a comer reservas. Dentro de la próxima semana are otro riego con dosis normal de flawles finish para posteriormente dejar secar el sustrato y al corte. A ver que tal!!

Had alot of fun with these realized my dumbass could only use my plant for two plants but everything is a learning process i really wanna lrean how to get fat ass nuggs any help is welcome

We continue forward and the flowers are looking beautiful. Battling pH issues and the drift in this tent is just crazy, especially since I barely have room to move her around to adjust her parameters. I need to not be lazy 😂 and do what needs to be done. She's got a funky grapes profile and berry smell that's getting more acrid as she ripens. From the amount of pistils she's still throwing, I'd say she's gonna be going for a while longer. I'm still in love with that beautiful purple flower and can't wait to see how far I can push her in this micro set up. The power of the Groloponix MiniMax 1G is on full display!!!

The seeds were planted on may 29th Added 30g of guanokalong seaweed powder to every 2 gallon pot of this five automatic ladies Haze berry by Royal queen seeds

🗓️ 6° WEEK FLO // DAY 36-42 (from switch) // DAY 113-119 (from dry seed) ⚡- Light: 30 cm / 250 watt; ⌛- Schedule: 12/12; 🌡️- 22° C - 65% RH average; 📑- PH 5.9 - EC 2.3. PH is dropping on the #2. I'll change the DWCs next week, meanwhile I'm trying to keep the PH in the right range; 💧- 7° DWC change; 🍔- Flowering blend: tap water EC 0.4 + Silic 0.5 ml/l + CalMag 1 ml/l + Hydro A-B 1.8 ml/l + Oligo Spectrum 2 ml/l + Green Sensation 1 ml/l; 🌱- Things are moving forward, both are gaining weight. 🆕- Last week I got the TrolMaster TCS-1 (@TrolMaster_Europe) and I started to track my grow box data. I will add these info once I harvest!