Ich musste sie gießen weil die Temperaturen wider angestiegen sind.

G'Day me ol muckers, this week I've mostly been teaching Koalas to tap dance and rubbing the bellies of funnel web spiders. 04.6.25 - leaf tucking and heavy spray of water. very thirsty girls. 05.6.25 - feed 1.5ltr - did some defoliation on the really bushy plant as covering flower sites as leaf tucking wasn't cutting the mustard. also a few leaves on the other plant. it will stress the plants but its gone past the veg stage so not too bothered. 06.6.25 - water 1tr in morning for taller plant. 1lt other plant at lunch time. heights 38cm, 45cm heights. using soil meter now. 07.6.25 - feed 1.5 ltr - light defoliation. ppfd 550 height 24" 08.6.25 - water 1.5 ltr 09.6.25 - water 1.5ltr - defoliation and took off any very low bud sites that will not get any light. 54cm tallest plant. 10.6.25 - These girls are starting to get their legs now and shooting upwards. cant wait to see what next week has in store. thanks for stopping by. 😁 See ya next week ya bogans.

Day 51 : Watered with 2.5L each lady. I added as always 1 co2 tab per 4.5L . Also i added nutrients. The next one will be pure water. She is smelling like bubble bug. She will be very tasty and it is obvious from the terpenes she produces, but she will not be heavy yielder. Edit (Day 56) : Watered 1.5L pure tap water of 7.5ph and 360ppm. No co2 today. Just pure water with 0.5/L Cal-Mag. Buds are fattening nothing else.

Really happy with how things are looking. 2 of the 3 plants have gotten some benders added so I can hopefully score a few more bud sites in the next few weeks. Keeping feedings low and steady- should have probably increased them a bit by now, but I’ve got some burnt tips and I really don’t want to throw things off. 🌱 👊🏻

She seems small, but it's so strong. Resisted very well the stress to be an autoflower. Totally love it. Ella luce pequeña, pero es muy fuerte. Resiste bastante bien el estrés para ser una autofloreciente. Me encanta.

Day 30 of flower. Do sweet dos strain. Plants in front right. Roughly 30 days left to go in flower. Lights 1212 par value roughly 1000. I keep lowering my light no signs of light burn yet at 19 inches. Day temp 21-26 night 17-21. Rh% is set to 45-55%. Watering every third day. 4L per plant . No runoff. Every third water I give technaflora nutrients at 1400ppm. Water ph 6.2 Ive learned my plants love a water ph around 6.2. Even slightly altering this to 6.7 you can tell they don’t grow as much. Very excited for the next few weeks as you just sit back and watch them fatten up. See y’all next week.

This weeks nutrients were identical to last minus the CalMag. The smaller of the two plants continued to stretch until the end of week three of flower. The larger plant already started to bulk. Trichome development is ramping up.

Die erste Papaya cookies ist runter 😁Richen wirklich nach Papaya ️

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

MIMOSA ZKITTLEZ FF / GANJA FARMER WEEK #5 OVERALL WEEK #4 VEG This lady is a fast grower is how I must stay this week she's a plant that will take the training you provide to her I'm using the budtraining clips to help train her as well I've as topped her. Great genetics with this lady!! Stay Growing!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! Thank you GANJA FARMER!!! MIMOSA ZKITTLEZ FF GANJA FARMER .

09/21/24 - Purple Punch 👊 & Green Crack 💚 Both these girls got the lollipop 🍭. All the winners stayed 🏆 😂. They got a bump up in the PPM, and we also increased the TPS Signal for the 3gallon dunk to now 3ml. 100% Bloom juice now. Runoffs are in the 6.3-6 4. So they thriving. 09/24/24 - Purple Punch 👊 & Green Crack 💚 Both these girls are drinking heavy, and already starting to see frost on the PP. We have them a top feed of just pH 7.2 water, to hit the 6.4 runoff.

Week 3 - doing very well! Moved the plants to an attic room in my house and positioned them under a sky light - seem to be thriving now. I taped some tinfoil around the plants to maximise sunlight. Vegetation looks healthy and I have been watering sporadically when needed. No signs of any problems or stress, fingers crossed! Thinking about repotting them into their final, larger containers soon. Nothing added in terms of nutrients or anything like that! So far, so good. Let's hope they stay on track.

Always looking for support and new seed please help [email protected]

The plants have taken to their Earthboxes, especially #1 with the BuildASoil Light. The Earthbox with my Coots mix was the runt, plus I damaged the roots during transplant so it has an uphill battle, but I wouldn't count it out yet. It was looking droopy and with slight discoloration, but after a drench of Kashi Blend Tea (1/3 cup Kashi Blend, 1 teaspoon blackstrap molasses in 1 gallon of water for 24 hours) it perked right up. As for preventative pest management, I've kept doing foliar applications every 4 days of EM-FPE -> EM-1, next week I will incorporate the just-finished EM-5. I made a JADAM wetting agent (JWA) but I have realized even local bottled water is too mineral-heavy for it, so I will need to find a source of distilled water if I want to use it in my foliar regime. Next week I will begin doing LST to get some more tops going. At some point I plan to add a trellis, I have been busy with work but I will find the time to set up something, preferably a trellis that can move with the Earthbox to facilitate maintenance and not have them fixed in place for the entire training and flowering cycles.

Week 8 – The Lemon OGs keep packing on the weight 🍋🔥 Another week down and these ladies are just getting chunkier and chunkier. Buds are swelling nicely, pistils are still mostly bright, and the frost is spreading like powdered sugar on everything. Trichomes are stacking, smell is turning into that sweet citrus haze punch that makes you wanna just stand there and breathe it in. Feed for the week was simple and on point – keeping them happy without overcomplicating things. I’m pushing them a bit before my upcoming vacation, making sure they’ve got everything they need to finish strong while I’m gone. Lights are still blasting 480W full power from the two KingBrite P55s, and they’re soaking it all up without complaint. Temps max out around 28°C, humidity is steady, and the canopy is looking even. A few lower leaves are fading, which is perfect for this stage. Some branches already needed a bit of support – fat cola problems, amigos 😎👌🏼 If they keep going like this, we’re looking at some heavy jars after chop. But for now, it’s all about letting them do their thing. 🌿💚 OnlyBuds

Clones termination. Mom's flowering. Yep, this is an example of how it should not be done. The clones survived two cases of tip rot and a transplant after cleaning the tips. They finally developed some roots, but still didn’t make it. I kept only one, but I need two. So… the mom is about to start flowering after stretching, and I cut eight branches again to make a second clone. After some bending and tying, the mom returned to the flower room. If your light has a flower mode, now is the time to turn it on. The fast stretch period is over, so add some red light. It helps with yield. This time we’re going to do it right, using the experience from the first attempt at cloning. Check the clones 2–5 times a day. Keep the propagator lid closed at all times, and don’t let water touch the cloning medium. Also, the cubes shouldn’t be soaking wet, just moist. This balance between water content and airflow is crucial for future roots.