Day 30 and this is the day after using Recharge. Only a day later and I notice some changes. Supposedly after 2-3 days you notice a big difference. We’ll see. I watered about 6-7 cups of water in each pot until run off. Looking forward to the new growth. Day 31: The first two to the left are autoflowers. They seem to have less branches below compared to the photos on the right. Will they continue to grow branches over the next few weeks? I love how they look for my first grow. Just curious

Week 8 Phenotype #3

Im thinking in flip to flower tomorrow, what do you guys think about

Happy 2 Months To These Lovely Ladies. I Will Be Harvesting The Purple Purple On Friday, I Wanted To Harvest It Today But The Soil Is Not Fully Dry Out And I Don’️t Want To Harvest It When The Soil Is Still Wet. I Bought A Pocket Microscope To Check The Trichomes And Although There Are Only Literally Only 1 Or 2 Amber Trichomes On The Purple Power Some Of The Upper Buds Are Showing Signs Of Overripe By Getting Dry & Crispy And Stretching Apart. I Will Be Taking Off Most Of The Fan Leaves On The Girls Scout Cookies (5gal) And The Gorilla Glue For Better Light Penetration. The Flowering 5 Have Such Lovely Scents Coming Off Them From Sweet Berries And Pine To Different Types Of Lemon I Just Love When I When The Tent Is Close Up And I Open It And All The Flavours Just Hits Me All At Once. The Lemon OG From MSNL Is Now Over The 100cm Mark It’️s Now At 104cm(Proud Moment). Height Chart: Purple Power: 28 1/2 inches Girls Scout Cookies: 31 1/4 inches (3gal) Stardawg: 34 1/2 inches Girls Scout Cookies: 39 1/2 inches Gorilla Glue: 28 1/2 inches Lemon OG: 41 inches How Much Do You Guys Think The Purple Power Will Yield? How Much Longer Do You Think The Girls Scout Cookies(3gal) & Stardawg Has Before It Is Time To Harvest? Please Take Time Out To Like My Grow Diary, Have A Crazy Amount Of Views And Not Enough Likes To Correspond. Peace, Love And Guidance.

Grape Octane Auto has been getting acclimated all week. She should start growing now and the roots should find the solution soon. Everything is looking on track. Thank you Medic Grow, and ILGM. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

Day 56/15 3 week flower Flowers building up nicely and stretch is over Pass them for a mid bloom regimen For personal note, today I flip her environment (vpd) to vegetative growth I'll be running next 3 weeks in high temps and high Rh 65%-70%

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

28 Janeiro- Harvest day!! Atualização em breve. Esta strain demorou 114 dias, mais ao menos.

Ci siamo quasi cosa ne pensate ?

Great nose and terps. Cookies beats out Humboldt in quality. Yield was very low but that could have been growers error

2024-10-18 The le Plants do a super job. spreading the semen into the feale Flowers absolutely extiting BE a Breeder", is one of Doctor´s Choices Motto. Regular Seeds Seeds germinate- A backcross from Chronic Ryder_ BREEDER INFO LEGEND We’re so proud of our latest drop - Chronic Ryder regular - as it results from a hardworking breeding process. We used an original Chronic male plant from Serious Seeds and backcrossed it with our Chronic Ryder from Sasha The Joint Doctor’s private collection to receive the Chronic Fast F1 BX Regular. By crossing 2 Chronic Ryder F3 lines, L1 and L2 from the same parents, we have created a new hybrid line. Well, it seems like it should be an F4 hybrid, but it's incorrect to name so. This process is called interline breeding, which means the cross of 2 lines. This cross allowed us, over several generations, to get a fully automatic Chronic Ryder that predominates its parents by 25% in key characteristics. Chronic Ryder is also available in feminized variety. GROWING Chronic Ryder regular shows the best performance of parents’ heritage. It grows into a uniform and compact plant that rarely exceeds 1m in height. Thanks to its compact size it is better grown in small spaces, terraces, and balconies and is quite suitable for stealth growing. The plant forms a single huge central bud cola with few side branches. Fatty and frosty buds will be ready to harvest in 70-75 days from germination. You’ll be truly surprised how big and dense buds are - the nice and fruity smell adds extra pleasure. The short growing period and strong resistance are other strong points of the strain. Chronic Ryder regular would be a great choice for growing outdoors with short summers - you’ll get your guaranteed high-quality yield in any case. Be ready to harvest up to 500 g/m2 indoors and 50-100 g per plant outdoors. TASTE and EFFECT Chronic Ryder regular has a nice taste - fruity and citrus tones complement one another, giving an unforgettable aftertaste. The effect is mild and doesn’t hit you like a hammer - the perfect choice for novice smokers. It brings balanced high and stone effects. Thanks to it, Chronic Ryder is a good smoke that calms your body, giving a strong body relaxation for a long time. CHARACTERISTICS Autoflowering: Yes Type: Regular | Autoflowering Room: Indoor | Outdoor | Greenhouse Genotype: Hybrid Genetics: (Serious Seeds) Chronic BX Chronic Ryder Finish time: 70-75 days from seed Indoor: Productivity: 500 g/m2 Height: 60 - 80 cm Outdoor: Productivity: 50-100 g/plant Height: 60 - 80 cm THC: High Flavour: Citrus | fruity | apricot Effect: Balanced high and stone | daytime | giggly

hey guys here with the new release from fastbuds thanks to those guys for the testers . Will be starting as usual in coco ecothrive to be precise pictured above with a pinch of mykos mixed in. To germinate I always make a hole with my little finger to the first knuckle drop the seed in and cover , water very slowly around the edge of the pot until you get runoff like the video shown . Then i put them on a plastic or paper plate onto the heatmat (not directly on it as it dries the media too quick) in a dark place and the longest iv had to wait is 4 days after that as soon as they break the coco I put them under a small 12w led/cfl light (pictured above) 6500k at around 15 cm as this helps build a good root sytem ready for transplant will be on no nutes this week will start on plant start and katana roots next week at this point i have no fan running just the light will add a fan to sturdy her next week. will only get one maybe 2 very small waterings this week depending on how quick the media dries thanks for reading happy growing guys

Took the 2ed tops today gonna Veg it out to week 8 then flip. Everything looking good so far. mars set up with Sensi grow is running great.

Nearly there !!!

😍😍😍

It's been great.. upgraded their tent, girls are stretching fairly but not excessively. I remove lst tie downs before flowering [experiment] but had to redo to maximize light penetration, previous topping and lst created a lot of bud sites Happy growing guys..