4 Tarte Tatin in this 5th week, 🌗Switching to flowering this week, I reduced the length of the day by 1 hour each day until reaching 12 hours night time / 12 hours daylight on the 33rd day!👌 🌺On the 33rd day I apply a layer of organic nutrients mixed with a little soil that I add to the top of each pot. I added 35 grams of BioBloom to each of my pots🌺 There is one that has gained more height, I will soon have to adjust the other pots to the same! 🎄Tarte Tatin genetics = Caramel Apple Gelato x King’s Tart ️ ------------------------------------------------------------ 💧Watering I water all my pots the same day but with more or less water. Simply by lifting them; A light pot is a dry pot and will need more water, A heavy pot is a wet pot and will need less water. On average I water each pot with: Day 29 : 0.5 L Day 33 : 1 L with 0.8 grams of bio enhancer/L I use tap water, adjust the ph to around 6 and water ------------------------------------------------------------ 🔥❄️Temperature of the week : Day : 19-23°C (Humidity : 65-80%) Night : 14-17°C Outside the tent it is around 16°C with 70% humidity The humidity is a little too high, I hope it will drop a little and I won't have a problem with mold during flowering🤞 ------------------------------------------------------------ 🚀Equipment of the week ⭐️ : Light FC3000 Mars hydro. power 95% at 50cm Extractor 6 inch Mars Hydro. power 1/10. ON 24/24h 2 fans to circulate the air inside the tent. Each on for 30 minutes then off for 1 hour. this rhythm repeats itself in a loop I'm removing my heat mat this week. ------------------------------------------------------------ 📜Links : Tarte Tatin seeds 🌱: https://shop.greenhouseseeds.nl/feminised-cannabis-seeds/tarte-tatin/ Mars Hydro : 5% off with my discount code "houstone5" 💪 https://www.mars-hydro.com/?acc=hou-stone 👨‍🚀My Instagram 🌱❤️️: https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/ ------------------------------------------------------------ Tanks for your visit😀👌💚

WEEK 5 SETUP - ROOT ZONES Optimizing cannabis performance requires balancing a strict temperature gradient between a cool root zone (68°F–72°F) to maximize dissolved oxygen and active nutrient transport, and a warm canopy (77°F–95°F) to accelerate photosynthetic enzyme activity and electron transport rates. There is a critical anatomical temperature gradient required for optimal cannabis metabolism: The Root Zone (68°F–72°F): Must be kept cool to maximize dissolved oxygen, preventing root rot (Pythium) and ensuring active transport ATP powers root elongation. The Metabolic Sweet Spot (77°F–95°F): The primary Electron Transport Chain (ETC) enzymes and ATP synthase complexes in the foliage require these warmer temperatures to maximize molecular collisions, accelerating respiration and carbon fixation. The Destruction Threshold (104°F): Enzymes and lipid membranes denature, causing structural metabolic collapse. Active transpiration constantly pulls dissolved O2 down through the top of the substrate like a piston. At night, the top-down pump completely stops. When transpiration shuts down after dark, the root zone can quickly become stagnant and oxygen-depleted because the mechanical "pump" is off, while the roots still need to breathe. Having a hole in the middle of the 100 gallon, in which all the air intake in an indoor grow tent comes up through the middle of the pot rather than open side panels, and having tent exhaust connected to RH allows cellular respiration to enact the exhaust, which creates a negative pressure differential that will act as a pump at night similar to daytime, but with a different mechanism. By routing the intake exclusively through a central hole and linking the exhaust to a Relative Humidity (RH) controller, effectively replacing the daytime transpiration-driven pull with a nighttime vapor-driven physical pull. Because the side intake vents are sealed, the tent is forced to draw its replacement air directly up through the center of your massive pot. This actively pulls stagnant, CO2-heavy air out of the root zone and replaces it with fresh, oxygenated room air. UVC 264nm duct sealed with HEPA filters to prevent contamination of pathogens. Constant airflow of 0.2m/s underside of the elevated pot to prevent potential runoff stagnation. Polystyrene insulation to prevent core desiccation, HVAC climate-matched intake, inline UVC/HEPA filtration, and constant underside air velocity are successfully engineered around every major failure point. Because cellular respiration spikes RH in waves, ensure your exhaust controller has a tight deadband (e.g., +/- 2-4% RH). This prevents the fan from "hunting" (short-cycling on and off too rapidly), which would cause erratic pressure shifts in the root zone. Using large-sized Hydroton (expanded clay) pebbles to fill a 12-to-14-inch diameter middle cavity in the pot solves the air channeling problem entirely. By replacing a dense substrate core with a highly porous, structural aggregate, it creates a dedicated internal air plenum. This ensures that the negative pressure differential acts uniformly across the entire vertical column of the root zone. Often referred to as a sub-surface aeration plenum or negative-pressure root system. By using negative pressure to pull or push conditioned air through a Hydroton (expanded clay pebble) plenum, this setup optimizes the root zone microclimate while preventing the typical gas stratification found in traditional containers. The 12-to-14-inch Hydroton layer acts as a high-porosity distribution vault. Because Hydroton has massive interstitial spacing, air can move through it with minimal resistance before diffusing into the denser substrate above. Instead of air channeling up a single path, the system forces the conditioned air to spread outward and upward evenly across the entire radius of the root mass. Roots actively consume Oxygen and respire Carbon Dioxide (CO₂). In standard pots, heavy CO₂ and excess Nitrogen can settle at the bottom, creating an anaerobic "dead zone." This negative pressure actively pulls those heavy gases out, replacing them with oxygen-rich, HVAC-conditioned air. Roots that penetrate the polystyrene/mesh barrier into the Hydroton core will experience incredible growth due to the hyper-oxygenated environment. However, because of the high nighttime airflow, the surfaces of the Hydroton will dry rapidly after irrigation. This will create a localized, self-regulating air-pruning zone, forcing the plant to explode with dense, lateral feeder-root branching just outside the core. Turns one's massive pot into a bi-directional, lung-like matrix. Equipped to destroy all limits set before it with nearly zero points of failure. With these safeguards implemented, the root zone environment achieves an unprecedented level of equilibrium. The plant drives the system. High transpiration creates a powerful top-down pull, dragging oxygenated moisture through the upper profile. The HVAC and HEPA/UVC intake runs passively or under low static pressure to maintain ideal ambient baselines. Transpiration ceases(Photosynthesis), and metabolic cellular respiration triggers a spike in relative humidity. The RH controller instantly fires the exhaust fan. The negative pressure vacuum instantly engages the clean, conditioned cohesive air column. Fresh air sweeps through the sealed duct on the underside of the buffer zone(pot), enters the 12-to-14-inch Hydroton plenum, and diffuses radially outward through the HVAC-controlled substrate. Stagnant CO₂ and nitrogen are actively evacuated. This setup prevents root rot, boosts oxygen levels at the root zone, and accelerates plant growth by ensuring the root system always breathes fresh air. Polystyrene keeps the core from drying out prematurely, the physical barrier keeps the media from migrating into the plenum, and the climate-controlled intake ensures the root zone never drops below its metabolic sweet spot. In standard growing systems, a root zone of this massive scale always runs into a diminishing return curve: the larger the pot, the easier it is to create cold, stagnant, anaerobic dead zones in the deep interior. This design completely smashes that ceiling. By turning the absolute center of the mass into the cleanest, highest-flowing, most oxygen-rich zone in the entire garden, it allows the root system to expand exponentially without ever hitting a wall. One is giving the plant the ultimate foundation to maximize its genetic potential, pushing growth rates, nutrient uptake, and overall vitality to their absolute limits. Also allows intake while catching all CO2 generation in the bottom half of the tent, kicking it up into the canopy every morning, even all around with 360 distribution, zero dead spots. Sub-surface aeration and magneto-electroculture matrix: a highly sophisticated, closed-loop engineering framework that perfectly bridges plant physiology with fluid dynamics and electromagnetic physics. By turning a traditional container into a bi-directional pneumatic lung, the design successfully bypasses the biological stagnation limits of massive root zones while leveraging micro-Lorentz forces to enhance nutrient mobility. Integrating a massive copper rod with an iron core (an electromagnet core) directly down the central axis of the Hydroton plenum—and driving a magnetoelectric field at the base using a neodymium magnet—shifts setup from a basic galvanic circuit to a specialized magneto-electroculture matrix. Running the earth battery's DC current through a highly conductive copper casing insulated around a ferromagnetic iron core transforms the central air column into an inductive broadcast tower for the rhizosphere. Just big enough to fill the massive root zones but not enough to leave the 4x4 tent. The physics and structural safety of this addition alter the system's dynamics in a couple of ways. Copper is an excellent electrical conductor but is non-magnetic. By wrapping the high-permeability iron core inside that copper column, you focus and amplify any magnetic flux lines generated by the circulating micro-currents. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ 38 mm OD x 19 mm ID x 6 mm N52. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ ⚠️Keep it well away from pacemakers, credit cards, mechanical watches, and sensitive magnetic sensors.⚠️ There is a permanent neodymium magnet at the base of this core, inducing an electrical current; this creates a localized electromagnetic actuator. Because it sits at the bottom of the plenum (where HEPA/UVC filtered intake air enters), the air moving up the column passes through a dense, structured magnetic gradient. As HVAC-conditioned water droplets and dissolved nutrient ions flow outward from the Hydroton plenum into the biochar, they cut perpendicularly through this magnetic field. This exerts a micro-Lorentz force on the free ions, altering their kinetic trajectories and potentially boosting ion mobility through the substrate's high-impedance boundaries. The central rod is sealed in a non-conductive jacket below the soil to allow the magnetic field to pass through while physically isolating the raw metal from moisture. Iron cores radically increase magnetic field strength, but they also introduce electrical resistance. If the current from the earth battery hits a bottleneck in the central rod, that energy transforms into heat. Given the root zone has a strict oxygen threshold above 75°F, use a digital multimeter to verify the central rod is not acting as a heating element. Copper is highly toxic to plant roots in elevated atomic concentrations. Because the central plenum experiences a massive, nightly rush of high-humidity air driven by the pneumatic exhaust lung, an unsealed copper rod will oxidize rapidly. This creates copper carbonate or copper sulfate runoff that will toxicify the hydroton pruning zone. Luckily, we don't top water in that zone. Roots exhibit magnetotropism (growth responses to magnetic alignment). A constant, hyper-intense magnetic field can distort root elongation or cause root tips to prematurely deviate from their lateral path toward the biochar. Ensure input voltage stays strictly in the micro-current range to keep the magnetic flux lines subtle and non-disruptive. The permanent magnetic field has a profound, measurable effect on the surrounding rhizosphere. Placed right in the middle of the massive 100-gallon pot, the 38 mm neodymium magnet acts as a powerful bio-magnetic anchor. Because the magnet is completely sealed and safe from corrosion, its magnetic lines of force will constantly radiate into the soil matrix. In plant biology and soil science, this triggers several notable physical and biological shifts. Water molecules are diamagnetic (weakly repelled by magnetic fields). When water moves through the soil near the magnet—whether from watering or root suction—the strong permanent magnetic field temporarily loosens the hydrogen bonds between water clusters. It breaks larger water groupings into smaller, highly uniform clusters. This "magnetized water" moves through soil capillaries more fluidly, lowering surface tension and allowing the roots and surrounding microbes to absorb moisture and dissolved ions much more efficiently. The field stimulates soil enzymes like phosphatase, which unlocks bound phosphorus in the soil and turns it into a bioavailable form for the plant. Many beneficial Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR), including nitrogen-fixing strains, are magnetically sensitive and show increased activity and modular clustering under a magnetic field. The field strengthens the communication networks among soil microbes, which actively boosts the plant's natural tolerance to environmental stressors like salt or drought. Roots exhibit a subtle trait known as magnetotropism. Plant cells use internal electrical gradients to guide growth and transport nutrients. The permanent magnetic field alters the transport kinetics across cell membranes, influencing auxin (growth hormone) distribution. As roots grow into the middle zone of the 100-gallon pot, they will likely develop denser branch networks and thicker root hairs to maximize surface area contact. Magnetic field strength drops off drastically with distance. A 38 mm neodymium magnet exerts a massive effect on the soil within a 10–20 cm (4–8 inch) radius around it. In the 100-gallon pot, it will not drastically affect the outer edges of the soil, making it a perfectly sized "core zone". The roots must grow relatively close to the center to interact with the high-flux zone of the field. Once they do, 432. Explosion. Those faint, clean yellow tips with zero browning, crispiness, or structural curling are not a sign of disease; they are a system-level operational signal from a plant running at maximum physical capacity. The system uses a 1.34 kPa leaf VPD, an N52 bio-magnetic anchor, and an active earth battery; the plant's water and mineral translocation is running at an incredibly high velocity. When a cannabis plant experiences zero osmotic shock but displays clean yellow margins at the extreme tips, it points to Early Photo-Regulatory Nudging (Incipient NPQ)At 84°F and 60% RH, stomata are completely open. If the light matrix is pushing a high PPFD, the chloroplasts at the very tips of the leaves—which receive the most uniform light and highest wind velocity—are operating at 100% saturation. The faint yellowing means the plant has initiated Non-Photochemical Quenching (NPQ) at its furthest boundary. It is temporarily slowing down chlorophyll production right at the tip to dissipate excess photon energy as heat, protecting the rest of the leaf blade from building up harmful Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). By incorporating marine crustacean biomass (shrimp and crab chitin) into the substrate catalyzed by the N52 magnetic anchor and an earth battery, this engineers a highly advanced biochemical trigger. In standard agriculture, elicitors are used topically to simulate pest pressure. In this system, chitin functions as a continuous, molecular sub-surface signal. When this organic polymer interacts with the super-fluid, magnetized water, it unlocks a powerful bio-energetic loop that forces the plant to maximize terpene synthesis without experiencing actual tissue damage. Raw chitin is a dense, insoluble polymer made of long chains of N-acetylglucosamine. In a typical organic soil, breaking down this structure takes months. However, this root zone features active soil electrolysis and magnetically restructured water. Water molecules passing through the 10–20 cm high-flux N52 magnetic gradient undergo diamagnetic restructuring. Their hydrogen bonds loosen, lowering surface tension and turning the moisture into a superfluid. This highly fluid water penetrates the crystalline structure of the crustacean biomass much faster than standard irrigation water. The earth battery's direct-current micro-voltage alters localized redox states, increasing the metabolic speed of beneficial Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR). These microbes rapidly produce chitinase enzymes, cleaving the dense chitin chains into low-molecular-weight, highly bioavailable chito-oligosaccharides. Relevance will become clear in later weeks.

Bit late posting this but the pictures are from D70, with work I didn’t have time until now. They’re still filling out the room ever so slightly. The girl at the front is suffering from light stress even though she’s the shortest, I have dimmed the light above her down to 70%. Out of all the the plants she has been the most difficult to manage from the start and has the smallest root mass. The other plants seem to be handling 100% with no issues. I have to say, at this stage of the grow, they do smell nicer than Strawberry Lemonade, very sweet and perfume like, harder to grow it seems but I am looking forward to trying her in August! Thanks guys!

👉Alrighty Then👈 So we are at DAY 35 with the Sugar Larry 👈 And she's doing fantastic 👍 It's now time to flip To Flower 👌 😀 decided to showcase pheno #2 , definitely has different traits then #1 very interesting 😀 thoe both are killing it 👈 Day 39 and all is well 👈 Except for some slight watering , ive been doing some defolation as well as some LST manipulation to pull branches to the side 👌 👉I had to Top her during the middle of 4th week 👍 she gonna be a tall girl with long legs 😛 👉WeeklyRoundup Video is finally posted 😕 😒 😪 😢 Happy Growing 👉Soil Provided by ProMix.ca 👉Nutrients Provided by Agrogardens 👉Lighting Provided by MarsHydro.ca Thanks my friends for the great support over the years 🙏 Happy Growing

Start of week 4 for Space panda Shes really getting quite frosty! Also put the other pheno into fliower 2 days ago or so

Day 71: The left plant is starting to show some of the same problems I see on the right plant so I am going to flush her too tomorrow. I think that it is mostly due to the light stress from before, it is just showing now, but to be safe she gets a flush too @5.8 ph Day 73: Hmmmm... It is difficult to see if the problem persists, or its just the affected leaves that will not recover. Should I remove these "sick" leaves? - They seem to be happy abut the new light intensity as some of the problems is defiantly improving like the leaves are praying, and the sides of the leaves does not seem to bend as much. I have been very gentle with the feeding, after having done 3 flushes (15L at 5.8 ph) and have updated my feed schema above Day 75: I am sure that I had some light-stress, and it is over now, but I don't think I see a full recovery.... I think I see the leaves to get more yellow but it might just be as mentioned before, that the sick leaves won't recover but I do not know what to do from here. Should I just leave them, or do you growmies have any suggestions? The grow has, and is, very slow in my opinion but I still see progress UPDATE: I decided to doe some heavily defoliation. It might have been too much for the left one. I haven't done much defoliation, but they where so bushy, that I thought it was necessary to get light on all my buds. Also I wanted to get rid of those "sick" leaves. I think I am on the right track, and the symptoms I see are old problems now

I have been very busy over the last week so I haven't had much time to do any documentation. There isn't much going on at the moment so you aren't missing out on much. There have been a couple of leaves on this plant showing some strange markings. Nothing that is uniform nor reoccurring. I think these defects I show in the video are localized to just two or three leaves so I am not too concerned at the moment. I will keep an eye on her for the time being. Other than that, the plant looks really happy and is growing very well. Good color all around and getting very bushy.

This is about day 10 but she really started stretching after day 7. She has nice lateral stretching as well. She didn't have all of these side branches a week ago

Feed Started With Tap Water Left Overnight For Chlorine/Chlorides To Evaporate. Next Day. Starting EC of our water is 0.15. I added 1ml of Rhiz Per Litre. Then Used Canna Terra Vega Until EC measured 0.4. I then used the mighty growth enhancer drop by drop until my EC measured 0.7 Finally i PH'd the mix to 6.2. Made sure the feed was of adequate temp and continued to feed. Next Two Feeds Are Just PH Water with a few drops of Rhiz 😎

These babies were planted on 4/2, popped soil on 4/5, first feeding 4/6, fed again 4/7, looking great, loving their environment so far. Wk1, Day1, 4/6/22 Wk1, Day4, 4/9/22, second node forming on all 3 babies Wk1, Day6, 4/11/22, 3" tall End of Wk1, 4/12/22, 2nd set of true leaves forming nicely on all 3, no issues

Start of week 3 of flowering for plants 2 & 3. They are showing signs of heat stress, three days last week temps in the grow room reach 35°c. Aside from some heat stress, the plants still look healthy and the bud sites are developing nicely. Light defoliation of each plant, removing the dying leaves and some of the ones showing signs of dying.

Start in Woche drei. Mittlerweile sehen die 3 auch aus, wie kleine Canna Ladies. Selbst die Black Ice hat aufgeholt und zeigt gezackte Blätter 😍 Sonst keine besonderen Schübe, keine Probleme, alles gut. Darf gern so weiter gehen. Beleuchtung erhöht (von 17 auf 20 mol/m²/d DLI bei max. 480 μmol/m2/s PPFD) Am Ende der Zeitraffer für w2.

Day 64 (Week 10 day 1) watered the girl with batboost, biogrow, biobloom, topmax, molasses, bactrex 1g/l at ph 6 ppm was somewhere 900. Day 67 (Week 10 day 4) Took some photos. The girl is doing okay shes slow but healthy, thinking of not using bio grow just add more of the bloom fertilizer. Day 68 (Week 10 day 5) topdressed the girl with GHE Silicate and watered with water.

Cinderella Auto 04.20.23 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Day 13 - Above Ground 🔸05.06.23 -So these girls continue to be amazing, scuffed up the soil today, and added airstones to my reservoir, even though it is just water maybe the plants will enjoy the extra oxygen!, the Medic Grow Smart 8 LED is doing very well, at 40% the plants are getting plenty of light and not showing any signs of over-stretching! 🔸05.03.23 - Just over the last 4 days these plants are just growing vigorously and healthy, first real watering today and the plants are starting to eat that Gaia Green amended soil and loving it, the Medic Grow Smart 8 LED is doing very well, at 40% the plants are getting plenty of light and not showing any signs of over-stretching! ~~~~~~~~~~~ 📝@fastbuds_official 📝Soil - ProMix HP 📝Medic Grow Smart 8 LED / Light Settings: 40% - V1 📝@medicgrow420 📝@gaiagreenorganics ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 📝Cinderella Auto - grows dark-green thick buds with elongated large-sized calyxes and lots and lots of long amber hairs all over them.

Tag 72 : Gegossen mit 3 Liter Tag 76: - Spülen mit 5 Liter 0,0 EC - Beginn Entlaubung Tag 79 : - Spülen mit 5 Liter 0,0 EC - Fortführung Entlaubung

02/19 start of new week. 02/20 got 7 gallons of water

Hola a todos!!!. Les comento como le fue esta semana a la Strawberry Gorila Auto. La he regado en 2 ocasiones, en una solo con agua y en la otra regue con top auto 1.5ml x l y la última de top veg 2ml x litro de agua. En ambas ocasiones regue con 400ml . Ya comenzó a mostrar los pestillos, asique la próxima semana intuyo que será de floracion. El ph de dichos riego anduvo en los 6.4 , las ppm no las he medido..creo que no me olvido de anotar nada más. Hasta la próxima semana, y buenos humos!!!. Las imágenes corresponden al periodo 04/09 -10/09 inclusive.

Week 3 has just been wild there proper going for it

This week has been really hard. Until this week the electricity was turned off on average once every two days, for 4 hours in the evening peak time. But the last 7 days the electricity is turned off twice or thrice a day also for 4 hours. I think that in this case it is better to reduce the light day and slowly started to reduce it at the beginning of flowering, and already reduced it from 18 to 16 hours, and that was a bad idea (((: The temperature outside was already around 30 degrees in the shade, and it rained almost every evening, as a result, the air humidity up to 65-70% so it was impossible to leave the girls in a closed box without a working fan. I had to cover the windows and work with my hands waving a piece of cardboard)))), adding back 30 minutes of evening sun outside the window each day. Same story since morning, but this more positive, we meet the morning sun, and move around the whole apartment behind the light frame of the window, running away from the shadow))) the main thing is that the morning is sunny, because will have to continue working with a piece of cardboard until the light is turned on (((: Also, as you can see in the first photo, I installed a large fan and removed the lower wall of the box, because the ventilation system did not help ((: Looks crazy but I already like it, new challenges and new experiences all the time, big plus a good habit to wake up at dawn! So no matter what, we are happy and breathe deeper 🙏