Pleased with how this plant is doing. Lots of stretch this week and looks like she's still got more in her. Still been training the tops where i want them but the branches are getting stiff now so that's nearly it. The cooling fan on my grow light is really noisy and the loudest thing of my setup by far. So i have changed it for a much higher quality one and it's amazing! Night and day difference for noise and performance too! See before and after videos. I have a feeling i might run out of space in the middle with the 4 buds. Also that the outside ones are too close but we will see. Any comments welcome or suggestions. As i keep saying, all a learning process to get better each time. I am already planning my next grow which will either be do si dos auto or gorilla zkittlez auto both from Barney's Farm. Have a possible weeks fishing trip on 7th Aug. So has it not finished by then I will buy a water pump and set it on a timer. As i expect i will be flushing around then so just ph water through the pump. Thanks for looking P.s. Planted 2 more outdoors today - 1 went with the other 5 and 1 in its own spot. See last photo of the now 6 outdoors!

Aparecieron unas pequeñas manchitas en las hojas más viejas, se realizó el trasplante a maceta de 5 lts y se regaron foliarmente con Knactive por estas hojas amarillas que comenzaron a salir y para que tomaran de buena manera el trasplante. Seguimos ... Pronto se viene la floración

Done some defoliation! Treating a pest attack!! Using Neem Oil & Puryolt

Well the end has come to this beautiful strain What can I say it was fun to grow even considering the early problems I had with the yellowing it turned out amazing The smell and taste are out of this world. Tastes very citrucy and sweet. With a super heavy high. Looking forward to curing this one. Onto the next and big up the followers

The plants have slowed their uptake of water. That combined with cooler temps have reduce to watering to a few gallons a day. I've included my end of generative 3 phase nutrient formula for this week. They are all close to generative 4 so I'll be watching for the upper leaves to fade to see if they will need to be fed. All of the plants were given tap water on day 1. Day 2 of this week everyone received the nutrient formula listed @2 gallons per pot. Day 3-7 this week just tap water. Plants are feeding lite and there's plenty of nutrient built up in the soil.

Harvest 2024 Total Hash: 102g Total Kief: 95g Total Flower: 3868g/138oz/8.6lb Total Yield: 4065g/145oz/9lb/4kilo ———-/-////////—vs———-/////————/ Sugar Diesel #1: 117g Sugar Diesel #2: 313g White widow Clone: 14g Dual OG: 112g LA Affie North Field: 248g Granddaddy Purple N: 63g Black Raspberry Kush N: 210g ————————————————- Total North: 1077g/38oz/2.5lb ————————///——/—————-/ Fruity Pebbles: 184g Granddaddy Purp S H2: 54g Granddaddy Purp S H1: 275g Granddaddy Purp Total: 329g/12oz Black Rasp Kush S H1: 160g Black RaspKush S H3: 70g Black Rasp Kush S H2: 511g Black Rasp Kush S H4: 17g Black Rasp Kush S: 758g/27oz Blue Cheese S H1: 281g Blue Cheese S H3: 83g Blue Cheese S H2: 285g Blue Cheese Total: 649g/23oz Dr Grinspoon S H1: 485g —————————————————- Total South: 2405g/85oz/5.3lb ————————///——/—————-/ North Popcorn: 148g BC Popcorn: 100g GP Popcorn: 73g BRK Popcorn: 65g —————————————————- Total Popcorn : 386g/14oz/0.9lb ————————///——/—————-/ Trim: 8lb ————————————————— ————————///——/—————-/

First attempt at defoliating today to expose additional bud sites. I’ve seen mixed thoughts on the topic, and in the spirit of trying things out I pulled the trigger. I anticipate a bit of stunting in the short term, but hoping for increased bud density down the line. Increasing dark time in hopes of increased florine, or whatever the flowering hormone is. Again, trying things out. She’s looking great though.

It rained a lot this week and I did not give my plants any nutrients because they were too wet. I let nature take over for the week and we are looking good! One thing I really like about this plant is its two colas. My friend helped me pinch it correctly --this is a new technique for me and I was a little scared I wouldn't pinch in the right place.lol I am curious to see what each cola produces.

Hello, fin de la semaine 2. Quelques petits problèmes pour bien gérer mon EC, du à une eau vraiment très dure. Au niveau des arrosages, je suis passé à un arrosage tout les jours depuis quelques jours, les plantes semblent apprécier. Elles ont repris de la vigueur, à confirmer avec le temps. Voilà pour cette semaine. Happy grow...😎

I might switch the lights in the next days. Depending on her growth. Day44: Added some water and moved the camera a little further away. Day45: She felt lonely, so I got her a friend... Theobroma Cacao. New seedling that needs the warmth + humidity. Hopefully surviving winter. Day46: I decided to take some zoomed in stills of her. To show off her beauty. The purpling of the branches really make this lady something special. In some of the shots it might look like her leaves are yellowing, but it's just the angle of the light. You can see on the photo that I took from the top, that all leaves are a healthy dark green. At least I now have proof that she's a lady. She's short and stubby, but I'm not really growing for amount. I just neeed 50g, after all (hehe) Day47: She grew like a demon overnight. I'll check the height tomorrow.

Dear diary, Week 9 marks the last week of veg as it ends with us finally transitioning into the flowering phase. As we embark onto flowing, I continue to fine-tune the environmental conditions and adjust nutrient levels to support optimal development. 🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀 ⏰ Day 60: I administered a feeding with a nutrient strength of 1.66ms and adjusted the pH to 5.8. Additionally, I increased the light intensity from 20 to 25 dli (daily light integral). To maintain the desired humidity levels, I turned on the air conditioner to dehumidify the space, successfully bringing it back down to 58% as it started slipping up to the 70s again. However, this adjustment caused a slight drop in temperatures to 24.5 degrees Celsius. ⏰ Day 61: During the evening feeding session at 18:00, the plants received a feeding with a nutrient strength of 1.66ms and a pH level of 5.8. Furthermore, I elevated the light intensity from 25 to 28 dli, positioning the lights 50cm above the canopy. The night temperatures have also stabilized at 22.5 degrees Celsius after the AC change. ⏰ Day 62: I provided a feeding with a nutrient strength of 1.67ms and a pH level of 5.6. I also conducted some light low-stress training and removed any growth on the horizontal stems, as each stem already possesses its intended 16 tops. These adjustments will help maintain an even canopy and ensure optimal light penetration. ⏰ Day 63: During the evening feeding session, I administered a feeding with a nutrient solution at a strength of 1.67ms and adjusted the pH to 5.7. To enhance light exposure, I increased the light intensity to 32 dli/500ppfd and positioning the lights 48cm above the canopy. ⏰ Day 64: At 11:55, just before lights off, I applied pesticides to address any potential pest issues. During the evening feeding session, I provided a feeding with a nutrient strength of 1.67ms and a pH level of 5.7. Additionally, I removed some excess growth and increased the light intensity to 37 dli/580ppfd, getting to the optimal levels before flowering starts. ⏰ Day 65 (Day 1 Flower): I initiated the flowering phase by switching the lights to a 12/12 cycle and provided a feeding with a nutrient strength of 1.85ms and a pH level of 6.1. As the plants enter the flowering stage, I have adjusted the nutrient composition. The calmag has been reduced to 1.5ml/l, Bud Candy has been added at 1ml/l, and the A+B mix has been increased to 3ml/l. The plants water consumption has also increased, now reaching approximately 2 liters per day, which aligns well with the timing of the light cycle change. The temperatures have stabilized around 25 degrees Celsius during the day, and the relative humidity ranges between 55-60%. I have also set up the scrog net in preparation for the upcoming stretch phase. ⏰ Day 66: During the evening feeding session, I administered a feeding with a nutrient strength of 1.85ms and adjusted the pH to 6.0.

Gracias al equipo de Kannabia, Marshydro, XpertNutrients y Trolmaster sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁 RS11: Las variedades de marihuana son cada vez más grandes y mejores, y la Rainbow Sherbet #11 de Kannabia ha llegado para revolucionar tu mundo con su extraordinario contenido de THC del 30% y sus terpenos increíblemente deliciosos. Con una genética 70% índica, esta descendiente de la Pink Guava y la Sunset Sherbet ofrece muchas características interesantes, como su espectacular belleza. Sus cogollos a veces adquieren una tonalidad azul y brillan con una gruesa capa de tricomas, por lo que parecen piedras preciosas cannábicas. Germina las semillas en exterior o interior, y prepárate para quedarte con la boca abierta. La Rainbow Sherbet #11 no necesita muchos cuidados para producir plantas robustas y vigorosas. Incluso los principiantes podrán conseguir un buen botín cuando llegue el momento de la cosecha, y los cultivadores que ya tienen experiencia no tendrán problemas para hacer que sus plantas rindan al máximo. Con un poco de LST podrás maximizar su producción, y tras 9 semanas de floración en interior conseguirás alrededor de 450-500g/m². Al aire libre, esta variedad puede generar hasta 500-600g por planta. El nombre de esta variedad augura un montón de sabor, y la Rainbow Sherbet #11 cumple con creces. Sus cogollos tienen un aroma extremadamente complejo que convierte cada fumada en un viaje aromático. Las fragancias que más destacan son las afrutadas (principalmente a cerezas y bayas), así como las cítricas. Esta mezcla va acompañada de unos matices terrosos y especiados y de un toque de pino. Tras unas cuantas caladas, los efectos de la Rainbow Sherbet #11 aparecen con toda su fuerza, potenciando la alegría y la creatividad, calmando el cuerpo y la mente, y ayudándote a olvidar las penurias del día. 💡TS-3000 + TS-1000: se usaran dos de las lámparas de la serie TS de Marshydro, para cubrir todas las necesidades de las plantas durante el ciclo de cultivo, uso las dos lámparas en floracion para llegar a toda la carpa de 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-ts-3000-led-grow-light/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 💻 Trolmaster Tent-X TCS-1 como controlador de luz, optimiza tu cultivo con la última tecnología del mercado, desde donde puedes controlar todos los parametros. https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1 📆 Semana 5: Recuperada de estrés comienzan a formarse los cogollos, las hojas se llenan de resina cada dia y el olor es bastante fuerte. Parece que ha terminado de estirar. Practico una defoliación intensa para airear los futuros cogollos y dejar mas espacio en el cuarto de cultivo. Agrupo de nuevo las macetas en su lugar optimo para asi rellenar por completo la carpa @marshydro. Me quedé algo corto de nutrientes pero estoy muy contento con los resultados, cada vez le voy encontrando mas su punto optimo. Siempre es mejor quedarse corto que pasarse.

All good here, ain't no complaints yet...not that preoccupied by the LST method anymore. Also I'm gonna bloom when the plant is about 12 inches so prolly at the 8th week of veg.

This was a great grow, learning new plants and genetics, Spliff seed is very solid and you can expect the same consistency each seed. I want to grow them all and see if they all fall into place with their signature work!

Week 4 What a week again with a lot of sunshine for the plants, but also (finally) some rain. Plants are still inside the greenhouse, so no direct rain onto them. Humidity got raised to 75 from the moment the rain started. I'm tempting to top one of the two plants, but I don't know which one yet. Also going to apply lst to both plants by bending the branches away from each other. I did not fertilize yet for the second time, because I don't want them to grow out of their pots already. I still can't plant them outside, because nights are too chilly. They are thriving anyway, but once they will be in full ground, I'm sure they will even do better. UPDATE: I topped the biggest plant (Mr. High) at the 4th node, so 3 nodes remain with possible 6 new growing points.

Day 49) 11/11 first week of flower has gone and still no pistils but I have no reason to think there won't; in due time. All waterings this week were 1/2 tsp of each nutrient per gallon of dechlorinated tap water ph’d between 5.5 - 6.5 and watered once a day and she just thrived on everything I gave her. OH! I almost for forgot my local hydroponic store gave me a sample of a beneficial bacteria conditioner called FishSh!t There are lots of diaries using this Sh!t and you can find them under the nutrient tab and search Fish Head Farms. They have a website with info and dosing and today was first day using so will update if I notice a substantial change. Dosing called for 1 ml per gallon of water mixed in with all other nutrients during bloom phase. I'm not really in bloom phase just yet but going light on the Sh!t till I test the effects. Happy Growing and Happy Harvesting

I will update the report after it has dried, to give a number and also later with a smoke report. Stay tuned!

🍰 Lava Cake – Week 8 (4th Week Flower) | The Bulking Phase The fourth week of flower has arrived, and both Lava Cakes are showing their full potential. Their structure is strong, pistils are snow-white and thick, and bud sites are stacking beautifully. This is the week where the promise of flowers begins to turn into visible production, every day, you can almost see them swelling. ⸻ 🔬 What’s Happening in Week 4 Flower By now, stretch is nearly finished. The plants are redirecting their energy: • From vertical growth ➝ into flower bulk. • From nitrogen demand ➝ into phosphorus & potassium demand. • From building structure ➝ into packing density. This transition is crucial: the roots, the soil microbiology, and the nutrient profile all work together to feed flowers instead of stems and leaves. What we see this week: • Thick, healthy pistils at every site. • Calyx swelling beginning, the first signs of true bud stacking. • Leaves still dark and strong — proof of balanced nutrition. • No stress, no burn, no deficiencies. ⸻ 🥤 Feeding Strategy – Why Boosters Matter Now This week, we removed the Aptus All-in-One Liquid, despite it being in the photo. The reason: the soil’s super soil base + slow-release pellets still carry enough NPK to support the girls. Overfeeding at this stage could risk tip burn or nutrient lockout — and we want the roots to stay clean and active. Instead, the focus is on precision boosters: Recipe (per L water): • Aptus Regulator – 0.15 ml → strengthens cell walls, stress protection, and nutrient uptake efficiency. • Aptus CalMag Boost – 0.25 ml → keeps calcium steady (critical for bud structure) and magnesium strong (photosynthesis & chlorophyll). • Plagron Power Buds – 1 ml → directs plant energy into flower production. • Plagron Sugar Royal – 1 ml → provides organic nitrogen + enzymes to stimulate terpene development. • Plagron Green Sensation – 1 ml → PK booster + biostimulant, promoting dense, resin-rich flowers. Why this mix? • Because the NPK in soil is still sufficient → boosters fill in the extra needs of flowering without overwhelming the root zone. • Because boosters provide specialized roles → each product targets a specific physiological process. • Because balance prevents problems → overdoing NPK at week 4 could backfire, while focused boosters guide the plants safely into mid-bloom. ⸻ 🌡️ Environmental Notes • Temps: Still ~31–34°C until AC arrives. High, but plants are adapting. • Humidity: 55–60%, VPD ~1.8–2.0 kPa — slightly high, but still manageable. • Watering Rhythm: Once substrate moisture falls near 19–20%, measured by TrolMaster WCS substrate sensor. This ensures roots get oxygen before each feed. Even under warm conditions, the plants are drinking heavily — proving they are metabolically active and thriving. ⸻ 🌸 What to Expect Next Week (Week 5 Flower) ✅ Expect: • Noticeable bulking → flowers will become rounder, denser, and begin to “stack.” • More pistils → a full carpet of white hairs covering colas. • Aroma development → the first hints of Lava Cake’s dessert-like terpene profile may start releasing. ❌ Not to Expect (yet): • Full frost coverage → heavy trichome production usually comes weeks 5–7. • Final density → buds will continue swelling for several weeks, so patience is key. ⸻ ✨ Closing Thoughts Week 4 flower is the foundation of yield. It’s when the plants finish their stretch, define their bud sites, and begin to convert light, water, and nutrients into the weight and density we harvest later. Our Lava Cakes are in perfect rhythm: • Strong genetics, showing symmetrical growth. • Balanced feeding, keeping roots clean and buds fueled. • Stable environment, with monitoring from TrolMaster guiding every adjustment. From here forward, every day brings visible progress. The journey of seeds to now feels like preparation — this is the beginning of the true show. 🔬 Science Spotlight – The Unsung Heroes: Calcium & Magnesium Many growers focus on NPK during flower, but two “quiet players” — calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) — are just as vital to ensure flowers bulk properly. 🌿 Calcium (Ca): • Strengthens cell walls, making flowers denser and less prone to collapse. • Improves nutrient transport, ensuring phosphorus and potassium (the bloom drivers) actually reach the buds. • Helps roots resist stress in warm environments (like our 31–34°C room). 🌿 Magnesium (Mg): • The central atom in chlorophyll → without magnesium, photosynthesis collapses. • Supports enzyme activity, converting sugars into energy for bud building. • Directly influences terpene production, giving flowers their aroma and flavor. Why CalMag Boost now? • In soil mixes, calcium can sometimes get “locked up” as the pH fluctuates. • With daily watering at slightly acidic pH (5.8–6.0), we guarantee Ca and Mg are immediately available. • This ensures strong, vibrant leaves → which means more energy for flower sites. In short: while NPK builds the skeleton of yield, calcium and magnesium are the glue and spark that hold it all together. Skipping them would weaken the entire flowering process. ✨ Grower’s Analogy: Think of your plant like a construction site: • NPK are the bricks and beams (the main structure). • Calcium is the cement holding every wall together. Without it, the structure would crumble. • Magnesium is the spark plug in the engine — it makes photosynthesis “run” and fuels the work crews building the flowers. No cement, no structure. No spark plug, no engine. That’s why CalMag support is never optional — especially in flower when the demand skyrockets. 🌸 📲 Don’t forget to Subscribe and follow me on Instagram and YouTube @DogDoctorOfficial for exclusive content, real-time updates, and behind-the-scenes magic. We’ve got so much more coming, including transplanting and all the amazing techniques that go along with it. You won’t want to miss it. • GrowDiaries Journal: https://growdiaries.com/grower/dogdoctorofficial • Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dogdoctorofficial/ • YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@dogdoctorofficial ⸻ Explore the Gear that Powers My Grow If you’re curious about the tech I’m using, check out these links: • Genetics, gear, nutrients, and more – Zamnesia: https://www.zamnesia.com/ • Environmental control & automation – TrolMaster: https://www.trolmaster.eu/ • Advanced LED lighting – Future of Grow: https://www.futureofgrow.com/ • Root and growth nutrition – Aptus Holland: https://aptus-holland.com/ • Nutrient systems & boosters – Plagron: https://plagron.com/en/ • Soil & substrate excellence – PRO-MIX BX: https://www.pthorticulture.com/en-us/products/pro-mix-bx-mycorrhizae • Curing and storage – Grove Bags: https://grovebags.com/ ⸻ We’ve got much more coming as we move through the grow cycles. Trust me, you won’t want to miss the next steps, let’s push the boundaries of indoor horticulture together! As always, this is shared for educational purposes, aiming to spread understanding and appreciation for this plant. Let’s celebrate it responsibly and continue to learn and grow together. With true love comes happiness. Always believe in yourself, and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart. Be a giver, and the universe will give back in ways you could never imagine. 💚 Growers love to all 💚

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia