Will keep a mother plant. Beautiful plant, probably needed more food. But it produced a good night medicine, very relaxing melt into your couch and grow roots out your as cause you won't be going anywhere soon.😑 PS. Smoke report was for first plant harvested the smaller one. And she's not even cured yet, can't Wait to see how second plant harvested bigger one turns out I let her go 60% amber 30% cloudy and 10% still clear trichomes. Pros, she will let you relax, good night med. Still curing plant 2 but feeling stoked Earlier cut was less amber still good sleeping. Can only get better meds at 60% Amber should be fire🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥promise to update after testing out. Maybe 3 weeks I hope I can wait !😬0 Plant #2 dried four days, till stems almost crack, been jarred up in glass for 1 week burping jars as needed, 2 weeks till 1st test smoke plant #2. See you in 2 weeks peace out. Wow 2 week's already? 02/07/2018 Still a little moist. Smoking a little bit high hit me fast. Taste blah back to jar.🙏

Genetics provides the blueprint, but the environment builds the house. To think otherwise shows outdated logic. A genetic freak will always be a freak, but for the other 99.99%, perfect environmental optimization coaxes average seeds into performing beautifully. You don't need a legendary, expensive clone to get a super yield. If you keep your light at the right distance, keep your tent at a stable 74°F–77°F, and prevent the root zone from drying out, you will naturally unlock the maximum genetic potential of whatever seed you planted. You are giving the builder the exact tools it needs. But doing that in 5 gallons is playing on Ironman mode. Want real yield? 4x15gallons or, even better, one big oxygen-infused 100-gallon. Maximizing your canopy footprint efficiently requires that larger volume to build a sufficient chemical buffer and hold consistent moisture. Small pots restrict the plant's metabolic runway, forcing an aggressive metabolic rate that will eventually crash the crop's vascular system, even under a pro's supervision. 15 gallons maintains a perfectly structured wet/dry cycle while letting you push environmental metrics to their absolute limits across the 9 cardinal parameters of plant growth. Dialing this in allows one to force the plant's photosynthetic efficiency to its absolute genetic ceiling of 4% to 5%. Hobby growers operate at a heavily bottlenecked 1% to 2% light conversion efficiency; a strictly managed, pharmaceutical-grade environment can double that, unlocking the plant's true potential. To get there, though, you need pharmaceutical-grade controls, a deep knowledge base, and a lot of money. Keep your setup realistic and grounded until you have the experience first; otherwise, you're just throwing cash down the toilet. 1. Light Intensity (PPFD) 2. Light Quality (Spectrum) 3. Air Temperature 4. Relative Humidity (VPD) 5. Dissolved Oxygen (DO) / Root O₂ 6. Substrate Moisture (VWC) 7. Nutrient Strength & Balance (EC/pH) 8. Root Zone Temperature 9. Carbon Dioxide (CO₂) If any one is bottlenecked, the entire energy process is bottlenecked to that %.. Geographical location heavily dictates genetic expression, which in turn influences and interacts with soil composition and its nutritional properties. This, in conjunction with the location's specific weather and unique environmental conditions, is what truly drives gene expression. Unless a cultivar is grown under the exact same conditions across the board, there is no way its genetic heritage will remain identical. Each generation grown in a different meteorological and geographical location will ultimately alter its genetic expression. The idea that a "magic seed" can bring back long-lost genetics and behave exactly as it did in the past is ridiculous; the precise environmental conditions of thousands of years ago simply no longer exist. To pretend otherwise relies on an outdated, unchecked version of how "genetics" actually works that is far overdue for a rethink. Genetics are not completely predetermined. The reason people still think of genetics as fixed is because of how we historically taught Mendelian genetics (the classic Punnett squares from school). It taught us that "DNA = Outcome." While that is true for basic traits (like whether a pea is wrinkled or smooth), it completely ignores quantitative traits (like flavor, yield, and stress tolerance), which are heavily influenced by the environment. A seed carries a specific genetic code (genotype), but the physical expression of that code (phenotype)—such as the plant's flavor, smell, size, and nutritional value—is heavily dictated by its surroundings. The exact same seed grown in two different regions will yield entirely different results. The unique mineral composition, microbial life, and fungal networks of a specific geographic location, combined with local weather patterns and UV levels, act as a custom recipe. This recipe directly influences how the plant develops its chemical and nutritional properties. Environmental factors act as "switches" that turn specific genes on or off without altering the underlying DNA sequence. These changes in gene expression can sometimes be passed down to the next generation, meaning the plant actively adapts to its new home in real-time. When a cultivar is grown in a new meteorological location, each subsequent generation undergoes rapid localized adaptation. The plant naturally favors traits that help it survive that specific environment, shifting away from its original ancestral state within just a few generations. Because the precise atmospheric conditions, soil biology, and climate of thousands of years ago no longer exist, an ancient seed grown today will inevitably express itself differently. Modern agriculture increasingly recognizes that we cannot separate a plant's genetic heritage from the unique environment in which it is grown. Commercial facilities in the world use 5 gallons of high-frequency fertigation (crop steering) and feed 10x a day, not stating that it's not possible or beneficial. For indoor home growing, I'd go with the 15-gallon (VERY MINIMUM for MAX heads) watering once a day at high, dialed-in metrics. The reason a true 4% to 5% total efficiency is considered a hard biological wall isn't that other growers lack understanding—it is because of how energy is lost at a cellular level in C3 plants (like cannabis) under artificial light. The difference in efficiency of conversion might only be a couple of %, but here is the thing that's undeniable. The 4% to 5% total photosynthetic efficiency wall is a hard quantum mechanical and biological reality for C3 plants under artificial light. It is dictated by the physics of photons, the limits of Rubisco, and massive energy losses through photorespiration and metabolic maintenance. While a commercial facility chases economies of scale, often compromising individual plant microclimates, a highly dialed-in home grower can leverage small-scale dynamics to push Canopy Utilization Efficiency to its absolute thermodynamic limit. A home grower running large-volume living soil or oxygen-infused substrates (like a 15-to-100 gallon bed) creates a self-regulating, high-buffer biome. This stabilizes the 9 cardinal parameters, prevents vascular crashes, and maximizes Canopy Utilization Efficiency and Electron Transport Rates (ETR) in a way a 10,000-square-foot warehouse simply cannot replicate. Localized adaptation and phenotypic plasticity blow the "static genetics" myth out of the water. Terroir is real, and the environment acts as a master programmer, flipping epigenetic switches. Alpha to Omega. Lights are 58 inches from the main source to the top of the pot and the soil surface. If you added up all the lights in the tent, it would be 1100w-1200w total across 14 lights. Using them all at once is far too much for a plant and incredibly difficult to deal with environmentally. The lights are fixed in position; side lights have dimmers, allowing for pinpoint precision of PPF. Fixed at 58 inches, cannot move them closer to increase intensity. Instead, achieve optimal PPF by distributing smaller wattages across a massive, multi-fixture matrix. Triggering specific plant defenses without melting the canopy. What's the point/blah blah wattage? Never really go above 600W at any one time. Lights come on in the east of the tent and set in the west. At sunrise and sunset, the red-to-far-red R:FR light ratio drops because the sun's low angle scatters red light more than far-red light. This shift reduces active Pfr and increases inactive Pr, mimicking Mother Nature herself. Deployed a lighting system featuring extra 660 nm deep-red and extending the spectrum up to 780 nm achieves the full Emerson Enhancement Effect by simultaneously balancing Photosystem II (PSII) and Photosystem I (PSI) to maximize quantum yield. By pairing deep-red photons with far-red photons, you trigger a synergistic biological response where the resulting photosynthetic rate is higher than the sum of both wavelengths used individually. This practice directly leverages the updated extended Photosynthetically Active Radiation (ePAR) framework. The Emerson effect accelerates plant metabolism and heat capture; you must proactively scale up your ambient room temperature, nutrient delivery, and CO₂ supplementation to prevent the light from stalling out your cannabis plant. UVA stays high all day from morning to night, but UVB peaks at solar noon (middle of 18-hour days) when the sun is peak. Morning color starts at 2k-3k; by noon it goes to 5k- 6k and back to 2-3k for sunset, with differing P:FR at light off. The extra-blue light is to assist with photoreactivation of UVB damage. No more yield loss for me. Using extra blue light for photoreactivation is what I do. Blue/UVA light activates photolyase enzymes, which directly repair DNA damage caused by UVB radiation. But what's the point if it's not for yield? Ultraviolet (UV) radiation—specifically UVA (315–400 nm) and UVB (280–315 nm)—acts as a critical environmental signal that programs a plant's photoprotective genes to unlock its true photosynthetic potential. When growers push crops to their absolute photosynthetic maximum via high-intensity light and elevated carbon dioxide, the photosynthetic machinery easily becomes overwhelmed. Emerging photobiology research demonstrates that UV radiation prevents this limiting bottleneck; it triggers specific transcription factors and signalling networks that fortify the plant's cellular defenses, allowing it to process extreme light levels without sustaining structural damage. There are 8 limiting factors of plant growth; when carbon dioxide becomes the 9th limiting factor of plant growth, it shifts the growth curve from exponential to linear. The restriction after that is "photoprotection" against reactive oxygen species (ROS), managed via non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and the xanthophyll cycle, which bridges into precise hydrogen and redox dosing. UV radiation, particularly UVA, and the synthesis of zeaxanthin are critical for the xanthophyll cycle to function. It's not chasing purple strains... One likes to call it chasing the limits of growth, trying to make the linear exponential, just like father mathematics prefers. In order to do that, must control every environmental variable and compound the plant’s metabolic rate. True exponential growth means the rate of increase matches the current mass at every stage, requiring a closed-loop system where light, CO2, and nutrition lock into a synchronized upward curve. First, you must attempt to understand what restricts it. Precise hydrogen and redox dosing. Nature mathematically optimizes quantum energy transfer and light absorption efficiency within the photosynthetic machinery, as it naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. Most won't even understand that; once you do, it changes everything. Constructive interference occurs when two or more overlapping waves meet in phase, meaning their crests and troughs perfectly align. Their amplitudes add together, creating a new, amplified wave with greater intensity than the individual components. Constructive interference is the foundational mechanism that establishes a resonance hierarchy across physical, structural, and acoustic systems. Chromophore spacing is tuned to sub-nanometer precision to match the wavelengths of absorbed light, forcing constructive interference. Light-harvesting proteins form geometric rings and lattices. These shapes act as physical resonators, trapping and focusing the wave energy. This same principle dictates how opera singers shatter glass, how musical instruments resonate, and how bridges withstand structural vibrations. Nature uses the exact same math to harvest a photon as an engineer uses to design a concert hall. When you push high PPFD and elevated CO₂, you create a metabolic bottleneck. The plant cannot process the energy fast enough, leading to electron backup, light-induced damage, and a collapse from exponential growth into a flat, linear rate. UV light acts as the regulatory valve that prevents this collapse. In standard agronomy, Liebig's Law of the Minimum dictates that growth is limited by the scarcest resource. When you maximize water, nutrients, light, temperature, and CO₂, the bottleneck shifts to metabolic processing speed and photoprotection. By controlling the Redox state of the plant using UV, the xanthophyll cycle, and managing ROS, you can prevent the plant from hitting a hard photosynthetic ceiling. Instead of the growth curve flattening out (linear or plateauing due to photoinhibition), the plant continues to compound its metabolic rate efficiently. You are forcing the plant to operate at peak thermodynamic efficiency. By matching the UVB peak with sustained UVA and shifting Kelvin temperatures (2K to 6K), you are damaging the plant just enough to trigger defensive genes, while simultaneously providing the exact light energy needed to repair that damage instantly. UVA radiation and specific blue wavelengths accelerate this enzymatic conversion. Zeaxanthin acts as a structural sponge that absorbs excess excitation energy from chlorophyll and dissipates it safely, preventing ROS formation. Without UV signaling, the xanthophyll cycle cannot keep pace with extreme light, leading to dynamic photoinhibition (yield loss). The addition of Spirulina is primarily for zeaxanthin, as it contains a lot. But on top of that, the active Hawaiian Spirulina in the matrix was cultivated in open ponds using a combination of 100% fresh potable water from Hawaiian aquifers and ultra-pure, deep ocean water containing all 94 trace minerals & elements. Then gently dried using patented Ocean Chill Drying technology and cold-pressed to ensure maximum nutrient levels. Spirulina, a blue-green alga, is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK), making it an excellent source of nutrients for plant growth. Studies have shown that Spirulina can be used as a biofertilizer, effectively replacing chemical fertilizers, especially for nitrogen, with a whopping NPK of 10% (N), 20% (P), and 20% (K). Rich in proteins, amino acids, trace minerals, and plant growth-promoting compounds. Zeaxanthin is a vital plant pigment that accumulates under intense light to drive non-photochemical quenching (NPQ), acting via thermal energy dissipation, direct singlet oxygen scavenging, and thylakoid membrane stabilization. The violaxanthin cycle (or xanthophyll cycle) reversibly converts violaxanthin to zeaxanthin via antheraxanthin to protect plants from photooxidation. Understanding this interconversion is vital for optimizing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and pushing photosynthetic limits under high-light stress. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a natural antioxidant that plants produce internally to neutralize harmful reactive oxygen species caused by photosynthesis and high light stress. Acts as a co-factor for enzymes like violaxanthin de-epoxidase in the xanthophyll cycle, which safely dissipates excess light energy. 1g ascorbic acid will neutralize 100% of chlorine in upwards of 30 gallons of tap water. If your local tap water uses chloramines (chlorine bonded with ammonia) instead of free chlorine, you will need roughly 20% to 30% more ascorbic acid to completely break the tougher chemical bond. Molecular hydrogen and hydrogen-rich water act as selective antioxidants that help lower oxidative stress. They neutralize toxic reactive oxygen species like hydroxyl radicals and boost natural antioxidant defense systems in biological and plant systems exposed to high-intensity light or abiotic stress. UVA and UVB act as stress signals that upregulate the plant's secondary metabolism. It forces the plant to build an internal "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and fortify its cellular defenses before the peak solar noon crisis. This keeps the metabolic highway open. In nature, the ambient ratio of UVA to UVB at solar noon sits roughly between 10:1 and 20:1 (depending on latitude and elevation). In a high-PPFD indoor matrix, maintaining a strict ratio—often aiming for around 12:1 to 15:1 UVA to UVB—provides the optimal signaling threshold. Balancing Far-Red (FR) light at "light-off" to manage the phytochrome photo-equilibrium (Pfr to Pr conversion) in tandem with the UV schedule. Omg, the logic. Hydrogen concentration and redox signaling as secondary messengers in this high-intensity loop. Under the intense solar noon matrix, the pH of the thylakoid lumen drops. This acidic environment activates the enzyme Violaxanthin De-Epoxidase (VDE), which converts violaxanthin into the photoprotective zeaxanthin. VDE cannot function in a vacuum; it strictly requires ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) as an electron donor to run this conversion. If a plant undergoes heavy light stress and runs out of internal ascorbic acid, the xanthophyll cycle stalls. The plant can no longer engage in Non-Photochemical Quenching (NPQ), leading to immediate singlet oxygen O2 formation and destruction of the thylakoid membrane. This is "The Ascorbic Acid / Xanthophyll Engine" Using ascorbic acid to neutralize chloramines in your water isn't just protecting your rhizosphere biology it actively prevents the degradation of your nutrient solution's redox potential before it ever touches the roots. When pushing plants to the absolute edge, traditional antioxidants can be a double-edged sword because they blindly neutralize all free radicals. This is a problem because some Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) act as critical signaling molecules telling the plant to grow. Molecular Hydrogen H2 is the Selective Kill-Switch. Molecular hydrogen H2 is a revolutionary tool because it is a selective antioxidant. It ignores beneficial signaling ROS (like mild hydrogen peroxide) and targets only the most destructive, cell-shattering radicals—specifically hydroxyl radicals OH) and peroxynitrite. By dosing hydrogen-rich water or managing hydrogen redox signaling, providing an emergency pressure-release valve for the plant's electron transport chain. It keeps the cellular environment stable enough that the plant never has to downregulate photosynthesis to protect itself. This maintains cellular voltage. To trigger this defensive matrix without stunting the plant, you cannot simply blast UV indiscriminately. You must use UVA as the "scout" and UVB as the "enforcer. High UVA acts via the cryptochrome and phototropin photoreceptors to upregulate the expression of the HY5 transcription factor and prime the VDE enzyme. When the sharp spike of UVB hits at solar noon via the UVR8 receptor, the plant's biochemical "sunscreen" (flavonoids and anthocyanins) and its zeaxanthin pools are already pre-staged and waiting. This prevents the temporary stunting or "lag phase" usually associated with sudden UVB exposure." The final masterstroke is aligning this UV defense with a Far-Red (FR) lights-off routine. The Red-to-Far-Red Drop: At the end of the photoperiod, knocking out the blue/UVA spectrum and leaving a targeted burst of pure Far-Red (730nm) instantly flips the plant’s master switch. It converts active Pfr to inactive Pr in minutes rather than hours. UV radiation and high-intensity lighting keep the plant in a highly alert, photoprotective state that requires massive ATP expenditure to maintain. By forcing an immediate Pfr/Pr) conversion at lights-out, instantly commanding the plant to cease defensive expenditure, lower its metabolic respiration rate, and transition directly into nighttime cellular repair and carbohydrate translocation. Maximizing the efficiency of its "sleep." every ounce, every last piece. Highly synchronized biological dance, balancing the exact input of electrons with the exact mechanism to dissipate them safely when they overflow. *Ascorbic acid is not recommended to be used in DWC, as it creates biofilm that will clog lines. Onward!

Wednesday, January 27 Fed plants yesterday(26JAN) 3/4ga each plant. 2tsp/ga ratio of Bud Candy pH’d @6.3’s. Have a compost tea brewing that I will feed them tomorrow. Compost tea is comprised of 1 Cup of worm castings and a 1/4 Cup of bone meal powder. Bone meal powder is a great source of calcium and phosphorus to help in the flowering stage. I also added 1.5tsp of Great White Myco root powder to 3ga of compost tea. This morning I noticed little white hairs growing out of pistils all over the plants! Finally, signs of early flowering since switching to a 12/12 light schedule this past Saturday. Plants have shown a sizable amount of stretch in the past couple weeks so I’ve projected at about 6-8 weeks from now for a harvest? I’ll keep y’all posted on the days ahead and as always, stay safe and happy growing💚✌️🌱 Thursday January 28 Fed plants about 3/4 ga each of compost tea @6.3pH. Hopefully will respond well to their first tea. I’m going to continue to do more research on compost brews to dial in the process. Stay safe and happy growing💚✌️🌱

Sep 7: what a great plant. Totally love how it’s going. Flowers keep getting fatter and heavier and she’ll be done before the end of September. Sep 8: there a tree root sticking up a bit in my yard which means the plant can be tilted toward the late afternoon sun. This is helpful because the sun is getting really low to the horizon already and we’re down to 13 h of daylight. Plus now direct sun is done in my yard by about 6 pm. Indirect light is okay but you really want direct sun at all times. Videos shows use of 730 nm far red light at dusk. Just a few seconds is all it takes to set the plant into dark mode two hours faster. It’s a bloom booster because you get two bonus hours of darkness or a 26 h day. Very effective but don’t miss a night and you have to adjust the timing each night. When starting this on July 20 Civil Twilight, as listed on timeanddate.com for my location, was at 9:45 and today it was at 8:40 pm. The red light at dusk is a highly recommended trick if you have daily access to your outdoor plants. Also works indoors, of course, and on autos too. Also I think it helps ‘stabilize’ the plant by emphatically putting it into dark mode, and therefore less susceptible to stray light to cause a hermie. Have not had hermie problems in four seasons of using the red light so that is my only ‘proof’ but it is true so far, even with taking flash pics before using the red light. Sep 9: getting heavier and now more branches are weighed down and slumping against the scrog net. Nice problem to have, I know, and without the scrog net some of the branches would be breaking off now. She’s now officially too big and too top heavy to keep moving around the yard in pursuit of direct sun. Sun is much lower to horizon now and direct sun hours are dropping too. Sep 10: getting close to done and getting very top heavy. Awesome. Sep 12: raining today. Has been cool last few nights and some purple colour is just starting to show. I don’t want to overdo fertilizer near the end, but I decided she is showing K deficiency. I’m out of malted barley but I still have potassium silicate, so I used that and some cal-mag. I’m avoiding kelp and molasses or using more P at this late stage because that can make the dried bud hard to burn and that really sucks. So, potassium silicate and cal-mag it is. The potassium silicate raises the pH and it takes about the same volume of vinegar to get the pH down. A good does of acetate is likely good for the bugs in the soil too. Then a squirt of Dr Bronners soap as a surfactant and that also supplies some biodegradable carbon for the bugs in the soil. Seems to work overall and is cheap. Apologies for the large number of pics, but she’s so photogenic. 😎 #seedsman420growoff #seedsmanseeds

Week 5 begins! Divine storm 1 & 2 are doing well, however DS2 is a bit hungrier. I believe that was do to her close location to the fan moving air around the bottom of the canopy. Increased feeding to 5 liters per plant and did some defoliation of the yellowing leaves. Moved the ladies to the other side of the room for the rest of the grow. Thanks for stopping by 👽🌳🔥

Nearly time for harvest, 2 weeks to go roughly

Die dritte Woche ist gestartet. Wächst bisher wie sie soll und das ziemlich flott. Darf gerne so weitergehen.. Habe die Lichtintensität etwas herunter geregelt, die Blätter kräuseln sich etwas. 18.03. Entwickelt sich und wächst sehr schön. Denke am Ende der Woche wird umgetopft. Und auch hier bleibe ich bei 30 Liter Stofftöpfen. Als Drainageschicht kommen Plagron Pebbles zum Einsatz, ca. 3cm. Darüber ein Mix aus Plagron light mix, Plagron Batmix und zusätzlich etwa 10% Perlite. Als Dünger nehme ich den Greenhouse biogrow. Davon 3 g pro Liter Substrat, also 90 g. Wird direkt mit der Erdmische gut vermischt. Das neue zu Hause wartet bereits auf die Damen.. 19.03. Umzug ins größere Zelt und Pott. Leider sind mir dabei ein paar Wurzeln abgerissen, hoffe der Schaden hält sich in Grenzen.. Habe zur leichteren Handhabung Drehteller unter die Untersetzer getan😅 isoliert zusätzlich vom kalten Kellerboden. 21.03. Habe mich entschieden an Tag 21 zu toppen und zwar oberhalb der 2. Nodie. Direkt das Training gestartet. Jetzt darf sie sich erstmal davon erholen..

Harvest day 66 since time switch to 12 / 12 h Hey guys :-) Finally it's time 💚 The lady is done the large leaves have been removed and hung upside down to dry in the dark drying room. You can now stay there for 13-15 days at a temperature of 18-20 degrees and 55-62% humidity. After 13-15 days it is neatly trimmed by hand and placed in jars with boveda packs 62. After 4 weeks Boveda 58% come in and are ready for testing ;-). After everything has been cut cleanly, the last update comes with the smoke report and the finished pictures. Let's get to the plant 💚 Very nice phenotype with an extremely good smell. Growth was normal after the initiation of flowering. Looks beautiful with its jagged leaves 😃. As always, the Green House fertilizer did a very good job and I can only recommend everyone to try it out🚀 Have fun and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻

07/09: Transplanted Red Mandarine into 7 gal and both CCCBD & Do-si-do went into 5 gals. Fed all the plants as well with just Herb Thrive Veg Planted two Auto Bubblegums from T.H Seeds as well.

Topped her at the end of week 3.

Fastbuds Meme Video Contest

Note : + jegliches Zubehör wird in der GermniationsWoche aufgelistet . Zeitraffer Videos folgen immer nachträglich. + videos werden so geschnitten das nur ein geschlossenes Zelt erscheint , ergo Fehlen paar reale Minuten (ca 1 Std) . Sanlight Tageslichtzyklus in Lebenswoche 6 : + 200PPFD - 1h - 750PPFD - 16h - 750PPFD - 1h - 200PPFD = DLI 46.60 + + Formel : DLI = PPFD * h * 0.0036 + + in LebensWoche 6 ist der Max-DLI ohne CO² : 45.0 Dazu kann man sich gerne die Zeitraffer angucken . Die Pflänzchen brauchen schon Ihre Zeit auf touren zu kommen . Ergo ist Sonnenaufgang und Untergang reines Stromsparen . Day 36: + 2Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Büte + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna Rhizotonic + Final : PH 6.2 Nach dem die Mangelerscheinungen wie gewünscht aufgetreten sind, gehts jetzt mit Blütedünger weiter . Sie hat sich prächtig in die neue Umgebung eingelebt. Wetter werte sind hier Super , also ist auch im Zelt super Stimmung :)) Videos folgen in den Tagen . Day 37: Sie wächst gerade noch paar Zentimeter :)) Blühten werden mehr . Day 38 : Und wieder das Licht etwas höher händen , den Sie wächst noch immer !!! Day 39 : + 2Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna Rhizotonic + + + Greenhouse Feeding BioEnhancer als PH+ + Final : PH 5.5 (das Urgesteinsmehl zieht das sowieso auf mindestens PH 6.5) + etwas Entlaubung der defiziet Blätter. Day 40: Day 41: + 2Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna Rhizotonic + + + Greenhouse Feeding BioEnhancer als PH+ + Final : PH 5.5 (das Urgesteinsmehl zieht das sowieso auf mindestens PH 6.5) Day 42: + 2Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna Rhizotonic + + + Greenhouse Feeding BioEnhancer als PH+ + Final : PH 5.6 , Drain PH 6.89

Just winding down. Gonna go lights off for a day or two now at week 10. Tangerine dream are close to done and grape ape are throwing bananas for past week so it’s time.

I think 2 a 3 weeks more before harvest

This is a long story but basically cloned from custom IBL of a 10 week pheno of Strawberry Sorbet. All grow kinda slow in veg and mid yield in flower as it makes sativa structured stretchyness with gold balls on her. I have used some SA and will do another natural steroid and pgr boost in week 2 flower in a week. Flipped 6/13 I will port update of flower week 1 soon.

This week went by quickly. They're doin their Pre-Flower stretch and getting big quickly!! I added my Pre-Flower mix to them this week. My Nutrient Pre-Flower Mix consists of H20, Coconut, Bananas, Pineapple, Sweet Potatoes, Kelp, Alfalfa Meal, All Organic Non-Pasturized Whole Milk, Epsom Salts, Black Strap Molasses, and L.A.B. or Lactic Acid Bacteria. First, I boiled the coconut, pineapple, sweet potatoes, the bananas, and left the skins on as well except the coconut of course! That I had to split in half and make sure to keep the water inside to add to the boil. After boiling everything I then let it cool and then added it to a blender to blend little by little. After blending I left separate and placed into the fridge. Then I took 1 Tbsp of Alfalfa Meal and 2 Tbsp of Kelp, 500mL of the milk, 2 Tbsp of Epsom Salts, and mixed them in a 750 mL bottle. Then I took 1L of the mix and added 2 Tbsp of L.A.B. and 2 Tbsp of Black Strap Molasses and then shook the bottle well! Then I took the 750mL bottle and the 1L bottle and fed that to the plants adding 250 mL of pH H2O to the plant as well to flush the ingredients all into the plant with the H20. I wanted to also note that I choose to slowly defoliate so that the plant doesn't go into shock and also fan leaves collect light in all spectrums so taking too many off at a time could hurt or slow the growth of your plant! The amount of light your plant takes in daily is called DLI or Daily Light Index. Overall, they're really growing and have a ton of bud sites developing! I'm excited to see the growth weekly and their colors!

DAY 70 Watered with molasses 💧 I had to adjust some of the stems, I used one bamboo stick and glued sticky tape to it. So now the other Sticky tape is going to stick. 😜 DAY 72 Watered with Biobizz feeding. 💧 0,5ml Grow + 2ml Bloom + Enzym+ Raised the EC of the water a little bit by adding 1ml/L calmag instead of 0,5ml/L.. DAY 74 Watered with Biobizz nutes. 💧 1ml Grow + 4ml Bloom + HS300Bio + AminopowerPLus DAY 76 Watered with Biobizz nutes. 💧 1ml Grow + 4ml Bloom I love my little Caramelo girl! 😍 😍 😍 😍 😍 😍 😍 😍 😍 LED running at 100%. Have a great week!! 😘 __________________________________________________ SET UP 240W Fullspectrum LED 660nm 730nm 3500K dimmable custom exhaust fan 270/320 m³/h 3x Garden High Pro fans 5W tap water EC 0,25 - adding Calmag to EC 0,4-0,6 - adding pH minus Bloom (AHH) to pH 6,5 Plantaflor organic tomato soil 🍅

This was an easy ride, taste and outcome was very satisfactory, the taste was a bit different than i was used to, i think the chicken fertilizer did something special... the smoke was awesome, very sweet and a bit sugar tasting here and there (i used molasses in the end as sugar booster)0

It’s now time to start flower. They are looking amazing and I’m going to go ahead and throw his crocs in there. I have one tent that I have not put in flower yet just for the main fact that one of my seats became a auto flower so I’m letting them run more time to let that auto flower finish and see what that becomes