Start flushing 6 days ago

Week 15 - unstoppable growth! My measuring stick is at its end. It only reaches 180cm and we are above that. It's getting hard to reach and prune the top but I'm not giving up. Temp is stable, humidity at a nice level, lots of sunshine. This summer is really something. But we had a huge storm. Nothing a little tape cant fix. One of the early branches broke off, but my net caught it and with a little tape it's as good as new

Great bud growth with white powdery resin showing. Starting to drink more water consistently every 2 to 3 days.

This week the plants got very bushy and wide. Stopped using Root Juice and Used Recharge microbes for the first time one day out of the week. LST also began this week. I noticed separate issues on two of the plants on their 21st day; the girl on the right showed some yellow color in some of the tips of the new growth at the top of the plant, while the girl in the middle had low hanging leaf tips which look burned / discolored. I think I might be over-watering. I'll confirm all of their soil is completely dry with my a moisture meter before watering next time.

Day 70 for these Fastbuds beauties Blackberry Auto: With dark purple buds glowing fiercely and a dank smell to match, this girl could make anyone's tent look amazing. During the last few weeks her buds have become incredibly dense and sticky. She is very short and thick in stature compared to the other plants I have in flower. I inspected her trichomes over the weekend and ive determined that she is pretty much ready for harvesr. I expect about 2 oz of high quality flower after dry/cure. Forbidden Runtz Auto I'm really blown away with the turnaround in this girl. She was mutated & so small I almost tossed her out during early veg; I'm glad I changed my mind. She stretched significantly between weeks 4-6 and I really wasn't expecting much from her. In reality, she has blown my mind... incredibly dense and sticky buds have developed in the past 4 weeks. She's got the zkittles smell mixed with a gassy terp profile.. I think the higher humidity through flowering phase really helped develop these dense buds. When I checked her trichomes over the weekend I determined that she will be cut down within the next 7-10 days. Process/ Environment changes: - Lowered my SF4000 roughly 20 cm to increase photon delivery to the canopy - Water/kelp meal only from this point to harvest - My temperature has risen due to change of seasons .. roughly at 27-28 deg C during daytime.. this is why I lowered my lights rather than turning them up - Defoliating any unnecessary fan leaves at every chance I get - I've had to use spools of twist tie to use to keep the branches from falling over from their own weight. I'll tie one end to the top of a branch, and the other to the stock. Not ideal but its working. Cheese auto dry/ cure update: After 10 full days of drying, I gave the buds a decent trim and put them inside glass jars where they will remain for many weeks. I add 2 way Boveda humidity packs to help regulate the relative humidity within the containers. I also use tiny hydrometer pucks to measure the humidity and temperature inside the jars. My ideal cure is at 62% RH

Permanent Marker weed strain possesses the genetics for high anthocyanin production, which is responsible for its signature deep purple. While the genes are present, the expression of these colors is often enhanced by "thermal stress" (lower temperatures) during the final three weeks of flowering, which triggers the production of these pigments. 👋 Raising the Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio in the growing medium to avoid over-immobilizing nitrogen, on the flip side, being careful not to trigger early autophagy. Moderate, controlled increases in sugar support the energetic demands of flowering and act as a signal trigger, but excess sugar is more likely to inhibit flowering or damage the plant. Balance, like everything else. Visually, when the chloryphyll green gets darker, it is a subtle indicator that the concentration of nitrogen is increasing / more is being stored than is being used. I noticed when you push very high intensity lighting, it slowly fades the green as the plant degrades chloryphyll faster than it can be replenished. When the green of the leaf continually gets darker, it is an indication that the concentration levels of nitrogen are increasing, and I dont want to increase light intensity. Turn down the nitrogen faucet. C:N ratio dictates the rate at which nitrification occurs, if at all. The Carbon-to-Nitrogen (C:N) ratio acts as a critical biological "on/off switch" (or regulator) for nitrogen turnover by determining whether microbes immobilize (consume/tie up) or mineralize (release) nitrogen during the breakdown of organic matter. This ratio regulates microbial activity by defining the balance between available energy (carbon) and building materials (nitrogen). The C:N ratio in a medium acts as a critical regulator of nitrification, effectively functioning as an "on/off" switch for the dominance of either autotrophic nitrifying bacteria or heterotrophic bacteria. The shade of green in chlorophyll is subtly linked to the enzyme Rubisco through a co-evolutionary, functional relationship designed to optimize photosynthesis. Chlorophyll absorbs blue and red light for energy, reflecting green light, a process that ensures the "light-dependent" reactions provide the correct, controlled amount of energy (ATP and NADPH) needed by Rubisco to perform its "light-independent" carbon fixation. Because Rubisco is a relatively inefficient and slow enzyme—often considered the bottleneck of photosynthesis—chlorophyll and the overall structure of the leaf have evolved to manage energy distribution to prevent overwhelming the Calvin cycle. While chlorophyll absorbs mainly red and blue light, it is not perfectly efficient, and leaves appear green because some green light is reflected or transmitted. This reflection allows light to penetrate deeper into the leaf, preventing the surface chloroplasts from becoming overloaded and enabling a more efficient distribution of energy to the high volume of Rubisco located throughout the leaf's mesophyll. The rate of chlorophyll-driven electron transport (light reactions) is matched to the potential rate of carbon fixation (Rubisco activity). If Rubisco were faster, leaves might be darker; however, the "shade of green" represents a balance that prevents chlorophyll from producing more energy than the inefficient Rubisco can process. The green color itself is a byproduct of a photosynthetic system tailored to feed a slow, yet crucial, enzyme (Rubisco) just enough energy to maximize carbon assimilation without inducing excessive oxidative stress or inefficiency. The shade of green in leaves is directly linked to the concentration of chlorophyll, which is in turn strongly correlated with the amount of Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) and, consequently, the rate of carbon fixation. Darker green leaves generally indicate a higher concentration of both chlorophyll and Rubisco, signifying greater capacity for photosynthesis. Increase output or reduce input. Subtle tells. While an excess of nitrogen (specifically ammonium) can cause an imbalance, nitrification—the microbial conversion of ammonia to nitrate—is highly sensitive to a variety of environmental, chemical, and physical factors. Because it depends on specific, slow-growing bacteria (Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter) and archaea, anything that stresses these organisms can disrupt the process.

Tight on space in the tent so she is definitely a little crammed. She's stacking nicely though =) Day 64- NFTG feed/Mammoth P/Recharge @ 6.8 ph Day 65-66 No Water Day 67- Mammoth P/Recharge/ Cal-Mag/ Bloom Khaos feed @ 6.8 Day 68-70 no water

A few problems this week... Just arrived back from Paris trip after week and i see, that i have to stay always by The Grils... 🤷‍♂️

La tercera planta o fenotipo 3 a crecido de forma mutante👽, el resto las otras 2 bién😃 Día 21 desde germinación

😶‍🌫️😶‍🌫️👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

Now we're Back on Track. I've started to her to the Side, to form her. The Permanent Marker is a Hybrid which IS very clear Here. Long branches without enough flowerstems. I tie the main's for a good 90 degree to go in the Kind of sog direction. And, what i learned from Carl Kushman: Break the inside carefully of your stems. It will make the plant stronger. Believe me. Just feel small balls inside the stems and crush every other. With that technic you can Control the growing

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 42 and she's just killing💀it👌 👉Added straws within the Tiny pot to help watering in week 4 👈 So I'm starting to see she needs watering every single day and now need nutrients 🙃 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Muy caros los productos, efectivos pero me sigen pareciendo caros, probaré nuevas gamas! Un saludo

This week she’s getting closer to harvest, took a video that’s shaky af but still shows a close up a little better then the pictures.

Plant 1 been staying bushy not as much stretch. Plant 2 stretch a good bit. They were both 18 inches start of flower. Bigger one is 30 inches. Changed my nut mix lower. Was a little strong missed two days of adding water. Started to show little sign of nut burn. It was 4.5 gallon low and ph dropped to 5.12. Ordered float valve so wouldn't happen again. They are finely getting hairs two days ago. Been working on cleaning out under the canopy. So I'm thinking one more day and plant 1 will be through the screen. Plant 2 almost has it grid full. Should be full by next week when I feed and post again. If you have any questions about anything just ask. If you see something I don't please tell. Happy growing see you next week

Today March 10th is day 50! I spend a few hours of work every other day to tie branches and manipulate leaves -white pistols are showing -will secure netting and stop using pipe cleaners to tie down at the end of the week -I have been using nutrients about every other watering -1.5 tsp micro .5tsp grow 1.5 tsp bloom in about 2 Litres of water After 2 weeks. Royal Gorilla is the fastest blooming followed by the Green Gelato. The LSD is slower. The HulkBerry I started 4 days later is blooming ok

Week 3 and a repot is done and now in day 3. Finally it’s settling down after the repot, which was not pretty at all😂 Hope to get some massive plants this run 🌱 ________________________________________________________________________________________ Light from @MedicGrowLED 😎 NEO 780 LED🔥 780 Watt⚡️💥 PPF of 2184 μmol/s & 2.8 μmol/J🔥 Full Spectrum V1/F1 🌈 WiFi smart connection & Smart Aura Control 😱

Week nine of veg and the girls are stretching… all except the Purple Punch on the far left. She decided to go into flower last Thursday! She too is healthy and displaying some purple. Thanks for looking in at my second grow.