The thrips infection is gone but there’re still a lot of damaged leafs as you can see in the photos/videos, but the growth hasn’t slowed down which is good. Anyway after I did some research into the big bang strain I found out that the company that sells this strain recommends “flushing” for a few days every other week starting from day 16 of flowering. This is meant to speed up bud development and I think it really did something here as the buds got twice as big. But I didn’t exactly follow their recommendations as it calls for watering the plants with large amounts of water and letting the soil dry for a few days and I don’t feel comfortable with that, so I watered them every day but made sure the soil was dry.

31 Aug. I start the third week of my autoflower. The plant is growing well, but I noticed small yellow spots on the leaf tips, which seem like a mild calcium deficiency. This is probably due to the fact that so far I have been giving water with a slightly low pH, around 6, while the ideal range would be 6.5–7. At the beginning, to lower the ppm of the tap water (which was around 211 ppm), I mixed it with demineralized water. This brought the ppm down to about 109–140, making it harder for the plant to absorb the available calcium. Additionally, the soil I am using, Biobizz Light Mix, is lightly fertilized but does not contain enough calcium to correct this small initial deficiency. For this week, I will not add any fertilizers. I simply want to raise the pH to 6.5 and use water with higher ppm, so the plant can better absorb the nutrients already present in the soil. The lamp is positioned about 35–36 cm from the plant and so far there are no burn issues. Temperatures range between 25 and 30 °C depending on the day, while humidity in the room stays between 40–60%. The humidifier is always on because I keep the window open, but the dehumidifier is not being used, as it is not necessary at the moment. I also have a new oscillating fan arriving to replace the current fixed one, and I’m waiting for a regulable extractor (90–145 m³/h), which will allow me to control the air perfectly during winter if needed. This week my main goals are: Increase the water ppm without overdoing it Adjust the pH to 6.5 Keep observing the plant without adding any fertilizers Everything else seems fine and growth is regular. With these corrections, I expect the new leaves to grow healthy and free of spots. ==UPDATE 31/08== To control the calcium deficiency, I will administer an eggshell solution until I reach 300 ppm (I will boil some eggshells and administer the solution in tap water).

Plants are done, but the trichomes are not, so i will keep them going till i am satisfied with the ratios. Too bad, i wanted to trim them starting tomorrow but if i want peak potency, i have to wait and let the Trichomes be the indicator

Sorry forgot about #3 pic. #3 added today.Mid week video is not so good I will do better next week lol 04/24/2018 Pulled fan leaves down to let growth tip to get more sunshine hope the weather cooperates gotta get clone from each one and keep for testing further down the road.

Week 11 Since a few days the plant's main terpenes have started to develop. I think it reminds me of the soft drink Fernandes Red Grape I drank many years ago

Semana sem grandes surpresas. Grade funcionando muito bem para espalhar as colas. planta crescendo rapidamente, como era de se esperar no início da floração.

She is sticky! She is stinky! She may have another week left 😂

7 days exactly... 3 of the seeds made it.... all 3 look good.... just seed raising soil mixed with perlite, inside jiffy pots that break down in 2-6 weeks... just normal tap water atm, and i'll water them less now, let them dry out abit... Day 8 - pics/vid.... Had a look under the jiffy's, all 3 had 1-3 cm roots poking out, they went straight thru the jiffy like it was not even there..... (pic - Day 8 - Root straight thru all 3 pots.).... so, went into emergency repotting day... lol....... i don't want the roots restricted or damaged in any way, so, got what pots and soil i had, and put em in, (2 x 13.5 lt pot, and 1 x 7.7 lt). Day 9 - some pics, bought a new tent (wait delivery), just got em under afew 6400k led's atm .... they seem happy..... 👍 😎

Everything looks good. Humidity has been way too high. I started flushing the plants.

What's in the soil? What's not in the soil would be an easier question to answer. 16-18 DLI @ the minute. +++ as she grows. Probably not recommended, but to get to where it needs to be, I need to start now. Vegetative @1400ppm 0.8–1.2 kPa 80–86°F (26.7–30°C) 65–75%, LST Day 10, Fim'd Day 11 CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity): This is a measure of a soil's ability to hold and exchange positively charged nutrients, like calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Soils with high CEC (more clay and organic matter) have more negative charges that attract and hold these essential nutrients, preventing them from leaching away. Biochar is highly efficient at increasing cation exchange capacity (CEC) compared to many other amendments. Biochar's high CEC potential stems from its negatively charged functional groups, and studies show it can increase CEC by over 90%. Amendments like compost also increase CEC but are often more prone to rapid biodegradation, which can make biochar's effect more long-lasting. biochar acts as a long-lasting Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) enhancer because its porous, carbon-rich structure provides sites for nutrients to bind to, effectively improving nutrient retention in soil without relying on the short-term benefits of fresh organic matter like compost or manure. Biochar's stability means these benefits last much longer than those from traditional organic amendments, making it a sustainable way to improve soil fertility, water retention, and structure over time. Needs to be charged first, similar to Coco, or it will immobilize cations, but at a much higher ratio. a high cation exchange capacity (CEC) results in a high buffer protection, meaning the soil can better resist changes in pH and nutrient availability. This is because a high CEC soil has more negatively charged sites to hold onto essential positively charged nutrients, like calcium and magnesium, and to buffer against acid ions, such as hydrogen. EC (Electrical Conductivity): This measures the amount of soluble salts in the soil. High EC levels indicate a high concentration of dissolved salts and can be a sign of potential salinity issues that can harm plants. The stored cations associated with a medium's cation exchange capacity (CEC) do not directly contribute to a real-time electrical conductivity (EC) reading. A real-time EC measurement reflects only the concentration of free, dissolved salt ions in the water solution within the medium. 98% of a plants nutrients comes directly from the water solution. 2% come directly from soil particles. CEC is a mediums storage capacity for cations. These stored cations do not contribute to a mediums EC directly. Electrical Conductivity (EC) does not measure salt ions adsorbed (stored) onto a Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) site, as EC measures the conductivity of ions in solution within a soil or water sample, not those held on soil particles. A medium releases stored cations to water by ion exchange, where a new, more desirable ion from the water solution temporarily displaces the stored cation from the medium's surface, a process also seen in plants absorbing nutrients via mass flow. For example, in water softeners, sodium ions are released from resin beads to bond with the medium's surface, displacing calcium and magnesium ions which then enter the water. This same principle applies when plants take up nutrients from the soil solution: the cations are released from the soil particles into the water in response to a concentration equilibrium, and then moved to the root surface via mass flow. An example of ion exchange within the context of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is a soil particle with a negative charge attracting and holding positively charged nutrient ions, like potassium (K+) or calcium (Ca2+), and then exchanging them for other positive ions present in the soil solution. For instance, a negatively charged clay particle in soil can hold a K+ ion and later release it to a plant's roots when a different cation, such as calcium (Ca2+), is abundant and replaces the potassium. This process of holding and swapping positively charged ions is fundamental to soil fertility, as it provides plants with essential nutrients. Negative charges on soil particles: Soil particles, particularly clay and organic matter, have negatively charged surfaces due to their chemical structure. Attraction of cations: These negative charges attract and hold positively charged ions, or cations, such as: Potassium (K+) Calcium (Ca2+) Magnesium (Mg2+) Sodium (Na+) Ammonium (NH4+) Plant roots excrete hydrogen ions (H+) through the action of proton pumps embedded in the root cell membranes, which use ATP (energy) to actively transport H+ ions from inside the root cell into the surrounding soil. This process lowers the pH of the soil, which helps to make certain mineral nutrients, such as iron, more available for uptake by the plant. Mechanism of H+ Excretion Proton Pumps: Root cells contain specialized proteins called proton pumps (H+-ATPases) in their cell membranes. Active Transport: These proton pumps use energy from ATP to actively move H+ ions from the cytoplasm of the root cell into the soil, against their concentration gradient. Role in pH Regulation: This active excretion of H+ is a major way plants regulate their internal cytoplasmic pH. Nutrient Availability: The resulting decrease in soil pH makes certain essential mineral nutrients, like iron, more soluble and available for the root cells to absorb. Ion Exchange: The H+ ions also displace positively charged mineral cations from the soil particles, making them available for uptake. Iron Uptake: In response to iron deficiency stress, plants enhance H+ excretion and reductant release to lower the pH and convert Fe3+ to the more available form Fe2+. The altered pH can influence the activity and composition of beneficial microbes in the soil. The H+ gradient created by the proton pumps can also be used for other vital cell functions, such as ATP synthesis and the transport of other solutes. The hydrogen ions (H+) excreted during photosynthesis come from the splitting of water molecules. This splitting, called photolysis, occurs in Photosystem II to replace the electrons used in the light-dependent reactions. The released hydrogen ions are then pumped into the thylakoid lumen, creating a proton gradient that drives ATP synthesis. Plants release hydrogen ions (H+) from their roots into the soil, a process that occurs in conjunction with nutrient uptake and photosynthesis. These H+ ions compete with mineral cations for the negatively charged sites on soil particles, a phenomenon known as cation exchange. By displacing beneficial mineral cations, the excreted H+ ions make these nutrients available for the plant to absorb, which can also lower the soil pH and indirectly affect its Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) by altering the pool of exchangeable cations in the soil solution. Plants use proton (H+) exudation, driven by the H+-ATPase enzyme, to release H+ ions into the soil, creating a more acidic rhizosphere, which enhances nutrient availability and influences nutrient cycling processes. This acidification mobilizes insoluble nutrients like iron (Fe) by breaking them down, while also facilitating the activity of beneficial microbes involved in the nutrient cycle. Therefore, H+ exudation is a critical plant strategy for nutrient acquisition and management, allowing plants to improve their access to essential elements from the soil. A lack of water splitting during photosynthesis can affect iron uptake because the resulting energy imbalance disrupts the plant's ability to produce ATP and NADPH, which are crucial for overall photosynthetic energy conversion and can trigger a deficiency in iron homeostasis pathways. While photosynthesis uses hydrogen ions produced from water splitting for the Calvin cycle, not to create a hydrogen gas deficiency, the overall process is sensitive to nutrient availability, and iron is essential for chloroplast function. In photosynthesis, water is split to provide electrons to replace those lost in Photosystem II, which is triggered by light absorption. These electrons then travel along a transport chain to generate ATP (energy currency) and NADPH (reducing power). Carbon Fixation: The generated ATP and NADPH are then used to convert carbon dioxide into carbohydrates in the Calvin cycle. Impaired water splitting (via water in or out) breaks the chain reaction of photosynthesis. This leads to an imbalance in ATP and NADPH levels, which disrupts the Calvin cycle and overall energy production in the plant. Plants require a sufficient supply of essential mineral elements like iron for photosynthesis. Iron is vital for chlorophyll formation and plays a crucial role in electron transport within the chloroplasts. The complex relationship between nutrient status and photosynthesis is evident when iron deficiency can be reverted by depleting other micronutrients like manganese. This highlights how nutrient homeostasis influences photosynthetic function. A lack of adequate energy and reducing power from photosynthesis, which is directly linked to water splitting, can trigger complex adaptive responses in the plant's iron uptake and distribution systems. Plants possess receptors called transceptors that can directly detect specific nutrient concentrations in the soil or within the plant's tissues. These receptors trigger signaling pathways, sometimes involving calcium influx or changes in protein complex activity, that then influence nutrient uptake by the roots. Plants use this information to make long-term adjustments, such as Increasing root biomass to explore more soil for nutrients. Modifying metabolic pathways to make better use of available resources. Adjusting the rate of nutrient transport into the roots. That's why I keep a high EC. Abundance resonates Abundance.

It harvest time for this Sunset sherbet auto. I’m happy how it turned out! thanks to Zamnesia seeds for sponsoring this grow 🙌🌱

Baked Bomb auto is growing nicely. She us kinda droopy, but I think because it is morning for the plant. The light might be a piece strong fir her stage if growth. She should be requiring a lot of light very soon. It has been extra cold this year. That could also be playing a role into some of it. She is growing steady regardless. Thank you Spider Farmer, and Bomb seeds. 💣 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

This was the girls last week! I decided to call them finished on day 63 the tricomes are almost all cloudy, with a small amount of amber. I’ve learned that they continue to degrade as you dry and cure your flower, so I’m trying something new for me, and pull them a little earlier than I usually would. In addition, after watching a podcast (Dude Grows Show) if you don’t know, check it out… I decided to run the lights for 18 hours instead of 12/12 for the last 5 days before harvest. The idea behind this, is to stress the plant enough to increase its natural sunblock/protections, which would be terpenes and tricomes just before you harvest, while also possibly quickening the finishing time for your plant. The group was discussing the benefits of this (listed above) while some already had implemented these practices when finishing plants. The recommended time to run extra light time would be around the last 5-9 days of the plant, without having any nanners or weirdness happening with your plants. Anyways, they finished amazing, sticky, stinky and heavy ❤️ the Terps are crazy on these strains….Harvest details to come. Thanks for stopping by 💚🇨🇦👊

Day 29 - Kicking off the start of week 5 and she’s definitely starting to flower. Will be starting the week 5 foxfarm feeding schedule as soo as she’s dried up. Ready to watch her start taking off and filling in. Have really had no issues or deficiencies so far. Can’t say enough about FastBuds and their genetics. Day 30 - Gave her the first feeding of the week today and added a little bit of molasses to the feed, given to me as a tip, so we’ll see how it does. She’s definitely starting to stretch and love the structure of this one so far. She tends to droop a bit right after watering but perks back up within an hour or so. Day 31 - Held off on giving any water today, still felt like she had enough to get her through another day. Will give her plain pH’d water tomorrow. She’s stretched almost an inch overnight and I think this is one of my best looking grows so far. Will keep my fingers crossed things continue to go and smoothly as they have so far. Day 32 - Gave the girl some fresh pH’d water tonight and she’s still looking healthy. Not much else going on with her right now. Day 33 - Grew an inch overnight but went ahead a raised the tie downs on most of the branches and tied her down a bit more to open her up for more light. Hopefully she responds well. Shall see tomorrow. No feed or water today, letting her dry out a bit more. Day 34 - She’s definitely stretching quite a bit every day, an inch over the last 24 hours. Gave her the second and final feed of the week and will give her just water until the start of week 6. Day 35 - End of week 5 and just took her out to get a few pics and get her measured. She grew another half an inch overnight. She’s definitely one of my best grows so far. She definitely looks bigger, healthier and further along than the green crack was at this point.

Today is the 23rd day and yesterday the first flowering stands appeared. There was no more watering, it rained enough... The bottle gives the water only if the soil try out to much...Sun, rain, warm, cold, always alternating... 15-30°C.

Finish

Decided that this week ive probably went a bit big on the 3 gal pots after reviewing other grows (Whoops, not the worst problem to have) so I invested in another tent to split the girls up. Im hoping this will improve the air flow later in the grow, well until I decided that it looked a bit sparse and started some 1 gal ladies away. Anyway im a massive idiot and burned the GG4, ive learnt the lesson of monkey see doesnt mean monkey should do. Anyway we'll get into that. Sun 5/6 Got myself drip trays for all the pots, which will be help keep the tents a bit tidier when the watering intensifies. Also picked up a soil moisture/pH meter, from further reading soil pH is going to be important (Foreshadowing here.....) Both GG4/Explorer watered today (Not measured, stupid) as meter suggested soil moisture was low. Fed around where I suspect root mass will be and moistened edges of pots. Ariel/Cindy not fed today as both soil surfaces were moist. Im concerened about little Ariel, but im holding out for here. GG4 = 6CM // Explorer = 3.75CM // Ariel = 1CM // Cindy = 1.5CM Mon 6/6 AM Cindy/Ariel surface sprayed as was dry. GG4/Explorer left untouched as they're moist. PM All plants sprayed until surface moist, warm day today and I struggle keeping the humidity high within the tents so the surface seems to dry rapidly on the seedlings. New tent should arrive tomorrow! Tues 7/6 AM Tent arrived and set up with GG4/Explorer Transfered. This tent has a MarsHydro 100W in. GG4/Explorer fed with 400ML water + 0.15ML Bio-Grow, having reviewed many other auto grows it seems that they're giving growth nutes early doors. I must be doing something wrong here so planning to slowly introduce Bio-Grow. Ariel/Cindy left alone as theyre looking ok. Well as ok as Ariel can look :S PM GG4 leaves are showing slight yellowing (That foreshadowing we we're on about), shit. Wonder if it could be light burn from the new light? Ive upped the light distance and will monitor. Wed 8/6 GG4 further development of yellowing with some browning now showing. Surely if it was light stress I would have seen a small improvement, but perhaps im being too hasty. Planning on waiting another day and seeing where we see any improvement. No feed for GG4/Explorer Spray feed for Cindy/Ariel Thurs 9/6 GG4/Explorer fed 150ML of just water as both are looking dry and feeling light to lift. Still no improvement on yellowing/browning of leaves however new growth is progressing so im not too concerned? Will need to ask wiser heads for advice relating to this. Further research is leading me to think ive nute burned it. MY water pH is coming out around 7.1 as well which wont be helping. pH down ordered as im sure ill need it anyway. Ariel seems to be recovering slightly now all be it pale on new growth, will monitor this little one further and see what happens. More seeds ordered so if shes not going to grow big I might slot her in a 1 gal and stick something different in the 3 gal. Thoughts? Fri 10/6 GG4 well and truely upset with me however only 2 leaves showing significant issues, however this is starting to spread. Posted a question and answers are reflecting that I have A) Too high pH water B) Have fed nutes far too early. Live and learn. Advice seems to show that around 6.2 will be a good range to shoot for. pH down didnt arrive today so will hold fire on any further feedings which works nice as all are moist enough. Have LST'd the GG4. Sat 11/6 Officially 2 weeks today. Whilst im disappointed in myself with the GG4 I suppose its normal to make mistake in something new so trying to not be too hard on myself. Ive got pH down and have fed both GG4(350ml)/Explorer(150) respectively with 6.2pH water. Hopefully this will be the start of the turn around a learning moment within a new hobby. I really appreciate the kind words from those that have already posted and of course any further advice would be massively appreciated. Week Recap - pH your damn water, idiot. - Monkey see, monkey shouldn't always do - Need to take more pictures for this diary.