RQS Titan F1 week 5 Hello friends and followers, 2/25 This has been an exciting week. My Titan girls started flower 🌼. T3 in the 3-gallon air pot is larger at 6.5 inches. Last week I noticed her new growth was getting long and thin. A sure sign the pistils will emerge in a day or two. T3 started flower 🌼on 2/25. 2/26 Surprise surprise, T3 stretched an inch overnight and T2 about a.5 inch. That stretch meant I had a busy plant workday ahead. First, I defoliated T3 since I could see what I had to work with. Then because I’ve been following @yan402 on his Titan grow, I said I was going to top her. He said its ok if done correctly and at the right time. Well, fingers crossed 🤞, I hope it was not too late or cut in yhe wrong place since T3 was already in flower. Her short (.75-1” long) stems are so close to the stem, it was difficult getting the tie down pins placed. With T2’s stretches her tippy top is just peeking above the copper pot rim. She is towering 😅 at 2.5 inches. T2 was defoliated on 2/26 as well. Her defoliation pictures above show how many I was able to trim off 7 and the leaf relative size. T2’s largest leaf is the size of a quarter and the smallest set I cut off, about the size of a penny. I keep supplementing and folar spraying with Cal-mag but the internodal chlorosis is still visible. I think Teapot gal (T2) has a copper excess.  Slowed Growth,  Fewer branches  Internodal Chlorosis  Stumpy roots (I won’t see this until I harvest and reveal the root ball) Given these symptoms of copper excess, and that RQS Titan are F1 hybrids and should be stable, I believe the height and the health differences are attributable to the copper wire teapot. They are in the same soil, same tent environment, same nutrient solution, same light, same everything. As I stated in previous discourse, I expected the overall plant to be smaller than T3 simply based on the pot size but did not expect to see such size differences so early, not to mention the nutrient issues. How I wonder? The copper wire is separated from the plant and soil by coco liner (which should be neutral, then coffee filters because I thought the soil would was out). Then the soil and plant. T2 is towering at 2.5 inches and started flower on 2/29. I expected a delay in her flowering time (4 days after T3) since she was transplanted to the teapot when T1 failed to thrive (maybe also the teapot cause?). Any time you train your plants, the stress causes delays in flowering then harvest. I defoliated T2 on 3/1 day 30. The pictures after defoliation show the tight node structure with 3 or 4 nodes crammed in only 1.5 inches of the main stem. Sheesh. So, as we enter March, we are off and growing buds. RQS says harvest 70-75 days or 40-45 days of flower. My calculations – harvest will be April 13-18. Be sure to come for my tea

Looking good. 2-3 weeks to go. PH is great. Starting to really make resin glands. Smells great

9/29/21 - We are marking today the first day of veg. That Mars Hydro TSW 2000 is doing a great job at 50% power. The plants all look great today! 9/30/21 - They look good. We are giving them water with no nutrients for this week so they will transplant nicely. 10/1/21 - They look great! I’ve been misting them in the morning. Soil is still wet from the transplant watering. We are waiting on fans and a scrog net. 10/2/21 - They are looking very good today. We mist them daily, sometimes twice a day. 10/3/21 - All plants look great! We stopped misting them for now. They look over watered a tad. We know it’s early but we started LST on a couple of the taller ones. 10/4/21 - Looking good! Just cruising along at 50% power, watering when dry. I know they won’t be low maintenance in a couple weeks when they are bushes. 10/5/21 - They look great! The ladies in the back are doing some LST still since they are much taller. It’s safe to say the roots are expanding and the plants overall are growing.

Doing great Smells amazing Stripped more blocking bud sites

Alien Vs Triangle is growing like crazy! She's loving the Recharge. I can see some white hairs starting to develop. I'm expecting her to go into her stretch any day now. 👍

Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ______________ 📅 D64/B27 - 18/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.0 pH: 5.2 🌡️ T: 26°C H: 80% 🌊 FLUSH 🍗 💧 💼 FLUSH first day 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D65/B28 - 19/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.2 pH: 7 🌡️ T: 26°C H: 80% 🌊 FLUSH 🍗 💧 💼 FLUSH second day 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D66/B29 - 20/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 1 pH: 6.2 🌡️ T: 26°C H: 80% 🌊 15 L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - Bud Candy - B52 - Overdrive 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D67/B30 - 21/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 1 pH: 6 🌡️ T: 26°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D68/B31 - 22/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 1 pH: 6 🌡️ T: 26°C H: 70% 🌊 15 L 🍗 CalMag - Bloom A-B - Bud Candy - B52 - Overdrive 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D69/B32 - 23/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 1 pH: 6 🌡️ T: 26°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D70/B33 - 24/06/24 ⚗️ EC: 1 pH: 6 🌡️ T: 26°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video

Just very happy with the structure of the plant and how well it was maintained. Was very worried during drying and cure as I lost a lot of terpene and became woody and until 10 days of curing the smell and taste just totally evolved into very desirable terpene. Very happy strain if you want “rock hard egg shaped buds” this is your go to, the main line did wonders. Will be trying this strain again when I upgrade light

8 Days 60 55-60 Hum, 65-70 temps

Took longer than expected with most of the seeds poping after 4 days.

Good growth, Blueberry powering through cal mag issue. Skywalker will be first to harvest for sure. Insane amount of frost on that plant. Glueberry og continues to require fairly frequent defoliations to open up canopy. Blueberry starting to get some subtle berry coming through.

I’ll be looking at Tricoms this week with possible harvest. I prefer half cloudy and half Amber.

with some problems with them 2 ... one of them has fungus again and the other lack of nutrients ... waiting for her evolution to be good ... she gives off a nice smell ... and hoping to try it ... and waiting to see if it takes its purple color

Week-end 5 - 3ème semaine de floraison 10/11 - Days 29 : Arrosage 1Litre/plante + Bloom 2ml, Booster 2ml, Grow 2ml, Sugar Babe 2ml, ActivVera 2ml 11/11 - Days 30 : RAS 12/11 - Days 31: tête principale 1ère plante cassé... 13/11 - Days 32 : tête principale 1ère plante sauvé 14/11 - Days 33 : RAS , multi bourgeons 15/11 - Days 34 : Arrosage 1litre/Plant + Bloom 2ml, Booster 2ml, Sugar Babe 2ml, ActivVera 1ml 16/11 - Days 35 : RAS Fin de 3ème semaine de floraison

Remember that, however you are played, or by whom, your soul is in your keeping alone. Even though those who presume to play you be kings or men of power, when you stand before God, you cannot say, 'But I was told by others to do thus,' or that virtue was not convenient at the time. This will not suffice. Remember that. Day:18 84°F and 65% RH (VPD) for the vegetative stage. Approximately 1.15kPa(assuming leaf temperature is about 2°F cooler than the air), which falls right into the ideal vegetative sweet spot (0.8kPa to 1.2kPa). At 1.15kPa, plants can draw water and nutrients efficiently without risking stress or wilting. It keeps the leaf pores (stomata) open, allowing for ideal carbon dioxide intake and maximizing vegetative growth. VPD is determined by the leaf's temperature, not just the ambient air. Because leaves usually run 1° to 3°F cooler than room air under bright grow lights, my actual VPD will be slightly lower, closer to the 1.0kPa mark. As she transitions from vegetative growth to flowering, one can gradually lower the humidity (to around 45–60%) and drop temperatures slightly to prevent disease from settling inside dense buds when they appear. Night:6 At 70°F and 60% relative humidity, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is 0.86 kPa. This is right on the cusp of whats optimal for the vegetative stage. During the nighttime, plants generally close their stomata and undergo cellular respiration rather than photosynthesis. Transpiration slows to a near stop, making VPD less critical at night than during the day. However, maintaining a nighttime VPD between 0.8 and 1.0 kPa is highly beneficial in that it ensures the air is dry enough to prevent powdery mildew or bud rot, but moist enough to keep the plant from undergoing unnecessary stress. This range keeps the environment comfortable for cellular processes and prevents large atmospheric swings. Keeping it all flowing. (Not pushing them yet, these are photoperiods) The optimal soil (root zone) temperature for cellular root respiration and nutrient uptake in cannabis is between 68F & 72F This narrow range balances biological energy production (cellular respiration) with the dissolved oxygen levels in the soil, maximizing plant growth and health. Warmer soils hold significantly less dissolved oxygen. When soil temperature exceeds 74F oxygen depletion occurs, inhibiting cellular respiration almost entirely, At 68-72F root cells generate optimal adenosine triphosphate (ATP) via respiration to power root-tip elongation and the active transport of water and nutrients. Too Hot (Above 78F) Root respiration increases, demanding more oxygen, while the water's oxygen-carrying capacity drops. This creates a prime environment for anaerobic pathogens and Pythium (root rot). Too Cold (Below 60F) Root metabolism and cellular respiration slow to a crawl. This severely impairs nutrient and water absorption, leading to yellowing, wilting, and phosphorus deficiencies. A lot depends on whether it's automatic or photoperiod; with photoperiod, there is not as much of a need to push "hard" as the real countdown only begins once the flower is initiated. Automatics, on the other hand, the chronological "clock" begins ticking the moment the seed germinates. It is of critical importance that the seedling growth gets off to the races, understanding that early growth is like compound interest, which will pay off come harvest. This reality is why getting autoflowers "off to the races" early on yields such exponential benefits. The "compound interest" is directly related to the surface area of the leaves. Larger, faster-growing seedlings process more light and build bigger root networks early on, which translates into an explosion of vertical and lateral growth during their short vegetative window. The margins for error are so thin with autoflowers; this early-stage momentum depends on several critical practices. Seedlings exposed to increased atmospheric CO2 levels early in life will develop at an increased rate. To effectively "extend" or optimize the capacity of Photosystem II (PSII) for increased photosynthetic efficiency. In standard oxygenic photosynthesis, Photosystem II (PSII) is naturally limited to the red-light spectrum, peaking at 680nm. Extending its light-harvesting capacity past 700nm into the far-red region requires bypassing the natural limits of standard chlorophyll a. Adding 730 nm (far-red) LEDs alongside standard red/blue lights has been shown to increase canopy photosynthesis by 20–30% in several crops by acting synergistically with shorter wavelengths. However, the limitation is that excessive, pure IR/Far-red light (without accompanying red light) can trigger the "shade avoidance response," causing plants to grow tall, weak, and spindly rather than robust. Utilizing infrared light (specifically the 700-750 nm far-red range) is a viable method to boost photosynthetic efficiency. It acts as a bridge to allow PSII to utilize a broader spectrum of light, breaking the traditional 700 nm barrier. UVR8-mediated signaling (often in conjunction with CRY proteins) triggers protective mechanisms that maintain the stability of the photosynthetic apparatus (including LHCII and reaction center proteins), thus ensuring that the efficiency of Photosystem II remains higher in UV-B-exposed plants compared to plants lacking this receptor. ΦPSII indictates the rate of electron transfer from water to plastoquinone, which drives the production of ATP and NADPH. There is a close link between ΦPSII and the true rate of CO2 fixation (Φ*co2). ETR stands for Electron Transport Rate. It measures the speed at which electrons are moved through the thylakoid membranes in a plant's chloroplasts during the light-dependent reactions of photosynthesis. Infrared light (particularly Near-Infrared or NIR) improves cellular energy by interacting directly with the electron transport chain (ETC) in mitochondria. This process boosts adenosine triphosphate production, which acts as a metabolic coefficient multiplier by accelerating enzyme activity dramatically. Extend then multiply. Far-Red photons interact with plant photoreceptors to accelerate the plant’s biological "clock" or trigger a shade-avoidance response. Autoflowers don't use the plant's biological clock, although the IR will initiate a shade avoidance and make them stretchy. You can just add equal measures of 660nm-680nm to negate the shade avoidance effect. Replacing nights' "darkness" with a combination of IR+ and 660nm. Because autoflowers don't require a dark period to flower, many growers just blast them with light. 18/6 24/0. However, this ignores the plant's metabolic rhythms, where daytime photosynthesis (light reactions) must be perfectly balanced with nighttime carbon fixation and assimilation (Calvin cycle) to avoid bottlenecking plant development. Cellular respiration is a 24/7 process, but it can only function while the plant has the free oxidative capacity to do so. A 100% photosynthetically active leaf cannot perform cellular respiration. The viral trend of defoliation of every leaf that isn't "getting enough light" is of great detriment overall, putting 100% of the cellular respiratory "workload" and responsibility on the 0/4/6 hours of darkness in sub-optimal conditions for enzymatic activity. Photosynthesis captures nearly 100% of the initial energy as carbon, while cellular respiration is the process that unlocks 90% of that captured energy into usable ATP so the plant can use it. Respiration is considered roughly 30% to 40% efficient. It captures enough of the potential energy in glucose to synthesize around 30 to 38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. The remaining 60% to 70% of the energy in the sugar is not captured in ATP; instead, it naturally escapes into the environment as heat, which helps regulate plant temperature. In plants, the primary enzymes of the Electron Transport Chain (ETC) and the ATP synthase complexes are typically adapted to function optimally in warmer temperatures (roughly 25°C to 35°C depending on the specific plant strain). As temperatures rise within this physiological range, molecular collisions increase, speeding up respiration and ATP production. The cannabis plant has a branched respiratory pathway. During heat or cold stress, plants activate Alternative Oxidase (AOX). AOX burns sugars to dissipate energy as heat rather than coupling it to ATP production. This pathway actually functions optimally at elevated temperatures to help protect the cell from the damaging build-up of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) during heat stress. Enzyme activity generally scales with heat; there is a strict biological limit. If canopy temperatures in a grow room exceed 40°C, the enzymes and their supporting lipid membranes lose stability. Not saying you need to go crazy, just optimize nights the same as we optimize days. Phosphorus is the driving force behind early seedling development. It acts as the "energy hub" of the plant, directly driving cell division, robust root growth, and the creation of DNA. Without an adequate, easily accessible supply early on, the plant's overall growth potential and final yield can suffer permanently. E=MC2 looks like a simple multiplication problem; it describes a fundamental physical truth: mass and energy are the same thing. The equation doesn't just calculate a value; it reveals that mass is effectively "congealed" energy. Energy is just numbers. Energy isn't a physical "substance" you can hold or touch. It is essentially an abstract, calculated number that we assign to a system to predict how it will change, interact, or move. A numerical label we attach to matter to track how it behaves. Because the universe runs on laws of symmetry (specifically, that the laws of physics don't change over time), a single global number must be conserved. We call that number "energy". We don't grow; we facilitate energy conversion. How well a seedling grows is essentially down to how much knowledge one can acquire to increase the level of conversion to occur. Applying knowledge effectively requires intuition, which comes from hands-on experience. A seasoned stoner learns to read subtle signs—like a slight change in leaf turgor (stiffness), subtle color shifts, or the specific texture of the soil—before a textbook diagnosis can be made. Ultimately, growing is the application of botanical science blended with active observation. Knowledge dictates your potential, but adaptability and attentiveness to the plant's immediate environment determine your results. 1.618 nature mathematically optimizes quantum energy transfer and light absorption efficiency within the photosynthetic machinery, as it naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. External vibration or electromagnetic wave that perfectly matches a plant's natural frequency directly influences plant growth. Low-frequency sound waves and targeted electromagnetic fields stimulate cellular processes and boost photosynthetic efficiency Does it produce better yields? How long is a piece of string? As long as you cut it. But isssss the juice worth the squeeze? The quantum framework of the IVM seems to think so. Good enough for the quantum firmware, good enough for the DNA software. Genetics are not dictated; they are expressed; the rate of that expression is dictated by the environment in which growth occurs. Quantum Coherence in Photosynthesis occurs When a photon of sunlight strikes a leaf, the energy it carries must travel to a reaction center to be converted into chemical energy. This process operates at nearly 100% efficiency. If the energy moved in a traditional "bunching" or random hopping manner, a large portion of it would be lost as heat. Instead, plants utilize quantum superposition. The energy particle (exciton) doesn't just take one path; it exists in a wave state and explores multiple pathways simultaneously. It essentially "chooses" the most efficient route to the reaction center simultaneously. Research shows that molecular vibrations and the specific network arrangements of chlorophyll molecules (like the naturally evolved Chlorophyll A & B ratios) actively protect against energy overflow, optimizing light capture across different light intensities. Enzymes are the biological catalysts that speed up chemical reactions within a plant's cells, allowing them to grow, metabolize, and repair. Rather than relying solely on the classical kinetic energy of molecules colliding, plants use quantum tunneling. Subatomic particles like electrons and protons (hydrogen ions) can literally "teleport" through energy barriers that they normally wouldn’t have the energy to climb over. This makes vital metabolic reactions happen far faster than classical physics could ever explain. Chloryphyll b has peak absorption at 460nm (Blue) and at 647nm(Red). If we take the blue peak wavelength 460nm and a UV-B, UVR8 peak absorption wavelength 285nm, Tryptophan-285 (W285) Sensing protein. 460/285=1.618 Φ If we take chlorypyhll b's Red absorption peak 647nm and a UV-A of 400nm, we get 647/400=1.618 Φ. "Structure of light". The cryptochrome photoreceptor (CRY) is a UV-A/blue light receptor that shares this dual sensitivity with several other biological structures and functions, including significant sequence similarity and a common evolutionary ancestor with DNA photolyase enzymes. These are light-activated enzymes that use blue/UV-A light to repair DNA damage caused by UV-B radiation in plants. Synergistic. But Shhh, it's a secret. Effective quantum efficiency of photosystem II, often denoted as ΦPSII, represents the proportion of light absorbed by Photosystem II (ΦPSII) that is actually used in photosynthetic electron transport. It is a key indicator of how efficiently a plant is using light for photosynthesis, as opposed to losing it as heat or fluorescence. ΦPSII (effective quantum yield of photosystem II) functions primarily as a "multiplier" (a coefficient of efficiency) rather than an additive factor when estimating the overall photosynthetic electron transport rate (ETR). Multipliers are considered far more beneficial than additions because they generate exponential growth, leverage existing resources to their full potential, and create sustainable, self-multiplying capacity, rather than just incremental, linear increases. This fascinating observation is rooted in the intersection of subatomic geometry, fractal scaling, and quantum dynamics. In specific molecular arrangements—such as in conjugated polymer networks or biomolecular architectures—the Golden Ratio (PHI) naturally dictates energy scaling hierarchies and resonance dynamics. Mathematically tied to the fine-structure constant, which defines the strength of the electromagnetic interaction. The Golden Ratio can be mapped geometrically as the Golden Angle (137.5 degrees) in atomic structures, linking the charge of the electron to fundamental quantum constants like Planck's constant. Electromagnetic. The Golden Angle (137.5): This angle is derived from the Golden Ratio (1.618). It is the smaller of two angles created when a circle is divided such that the ratio of the arcs equals the Golden Ratio.

MAY 17th I'll water the 10th planet again tomorrow. Things are going amazing! I topped one of the blueberry cheeses and fimmed another. I'm not seeing any stress. If they seem good I'll hst some of the others. This doing ONE thing at a time helps figure out problems. It's 75 right now but it was 39 this morning. UPDATE: IT STARTED FUCKING SNOWING TODAY. Forecast looks good and others are putting plants out. I'll hold off. They'll go to the garage soon for hardening off. Looking at other diaries I had much bigger "clones" but they always come full of problems (see last year). These plants are the healthiest ivecever grown. I'd rather have a healthy plant half the size than a clone with a bunch of issues. Tomorrow I'm planning to wash my stakes and grow bags. I'll get the palletts in position and move my cage. I also am considering either putting a small pvc cover on my cage or finding a way to attack something to the trellis system for heavy rains. If anybody has ideas I'm all ears. 5/18 DIDN'T WATER TODAY. Soil was dry but the pots were heavy. I could feel some moisture through the drain holes. I think it would've been alright either way but I'm erring on the side of caution. I'll check again later in the day. I topped one and fimmed anotger of the blueberry cheese. The purple punch is quickly catching g up to her sisters. I HAD to add a small ring around one of the purple pounce plants as it was WAAAAY lighter than the others. It's possible it could've gotten less water than the others last time due to its positioning. I'm also considering adding silica next feeding. So much left to do before they go outside. Oh and it was fucking snowing here yesterday! May 17 and it was snowing middle of the day. Morning temp wad 31 this morning so I'm staying cautious and making sure I have all my ducks I'm a row before I go outside. I'm also weighing options to either add a pvc hoop on top of my cage or look into protecting plants individually come late fall with our horrible weather. I'm leaning towards the pvc top. I think that would greatly help things. UPDATE: Went back over at four and everything's looked great. Leaves praying to the sun. Topsoil is dry as fuck but I can still feel a little bit of moisture through the drain holes plus they have a little heft left to them. I plan on watering tomorrow and see how that goes. I wanted to add silica but I'm afraid of changing to much or raising the ph of the soil. 5/19 Found out that my scale will actually weigh the three gallon pots! I don't have an empty one to fill with dry soil to compare though. WATERED everything today. Topsoil was totally dry. Some plants had some heft to them. However I last watered on the 15th so I decided to cut back on the amount of water and see how that goes. Instead of the full 28oz powerade bottle I gave them a little over half. I tried for approx 16fl Oz per plant. Everything is looking great. Other than the little runt. I don't know whatcthecdeal is with that one bit it may get given away or culled. I also FIMed a purple punch. UPDATE: Went back over around 11 and boy weren't the plants looking good. I'm moving my cage and sanitizing my pallets tomorrow. I sanitized my grow bags. I vleaned them with the baking soda and water and a scrub brush but since I had that problem with fusarium last year I then soaked them in a h2o2 solution for 20 mins before rinsing them off and letting them dry. I am so stoked for this season. Wondering about the pvc top and whether it's necessary 🤔. I have TONS of heavy equipment (well dad does) but the smallest thing we have is a backhoe and a bulldozer neither which I'm to inclined to use to move big plants. I thought that since the door to that garage is large enough to drive a front end loader in than if I could find a way to make my pallets mobile I could bring them in if storms are coming. I worry to much. I also got rid of anything that could gave spires on it. Ilk need to wash my plastic trellis netting and the bamboo as well but better safe than sorry. 5/20 Plants are still growing like weeds and are the ones I HST are recovering nicely. Soon they'll go out to the garage and spend their days outside in the sunshine and their nights inside the garage while I harden them off. Having trouble uploading stuff right now. 5/21 Topped two blueberry cheese and one purple punch. Plants are still doing great. We are getting close to go8ng outside in tye forever homes in smart pots ranging from 10gal to 50 gals. I still need to sanitize the pallets but this week I plan on hardening these girls off fully. 5/22 I weighed a couple of the plants and they were different. I think I got a couple 7lbs one that was 6 something and a heavier one that was 8. Looks like I've found the right amount. I plan to water tomorrow. They'll be moved in the next couple days to the garage and I'll let them fill the 3's before they go in their final homes. Plants are recovering from HST great. Still getting cold nights here. Honestly if I didn't have a major life event happen they'd be outside hardening off now 5/23 Watered everything with approximately 18oz of water. I am either going to move plants outside today to indirect sun (even though they've handled full sunlight from an open window) in the garage and keep the light going for a little longer. They need to fill their pots before they go in their forever homes. I've got some work to do but it will pay off. EDIT: Cage has been moved to its new home. A huge pallet takes up most of it but I have littler ones that will fit in. I just haven't had a chance to disinfect these. I'm probably going overboard but I'm not fucking around with that fusarium or other any pathogens this year. I'm going to use the systemic organocide once I go outside. It's going to rain tomorrow amd might be cold but I still move the plants to the garage in the morning.

Sehr gute Sorte. Sie Bss#1 hat ein etwas organisches leicht limoniges Aroma und die bss#2 riecht sehr stark nach Eukalyptus. Mir gefallen beide aber ganz gut. Vorallem ist die Wirkung ist sehr gut.

In dieser Woche hab ich das letzte topping durchzogen. Ich habe jetzt aus 8 hauptriebe pro Pflanze 16 hauptriebe gemacht. Die hauptriebe werde ich jetzt bis zum topfrand waschen lassen und dann straigt up nach oben wachsen lassen. Was ich bisher raus lesen konnte ist das die Orange Creampop extrem hungrig auf CalMag ist. Vielleicht lieget es auch dab der LED aber sie benötigt viel CalMag.

I grow in pure coco with organic nutrients

Ci sono più di trenta gradi di temperatura ormai e la notte la temperatura non è più fresca. Poco da dire su queste varietà impeccabili e bellissime e molto abbondanti. Ogni varietà autofiorente della dutchfemseeds è una vera soddisfazione, continuano a riempirsi tutte di infiorescenze appiccicose e profumate e alcune colorate. Continuano a produrre resina e le infiorescenze si stanno gonfiando e indurendo molto. Alcune superano il metro e cinquanta centimetri di altezza, la maggioranza sono più di un metro e molto diramate e piene di infiorescenze. Se continuano così tra un paio di settimane iniziamo a raccogliere le più mature! Resistono molto agli afidi infatti sono meno presenti visto che la resina appiccicosa inizia a dare fastidio a tutti i parassiti quindi è un bene! Un abbraccio a tutti forza Dutchfem