Hi guys, day number 40 is the last day at 18/6. Now I'll give 24 hours of darkness and Then I'll start the 12/12 cycle. If I have not done anything wrong, I think I will collect about 100 grams of dried flowers per plant. I have not had any problems and I hope everything goes smoothly until the end. Stay tuned 🦍😁💪🏻

Продовжую вести репост і тримати свою крихітку на ріпені. Деякі незрозумілі проблеми з листям, але якщо вірити мудрецям з цього сайту - це через високу температуру, яка останні дні була аномально високою. Опустив горщік нижче, долив води у мій "зволожувач" повітря, сподіваюсь це хоч трошки допоможе. Квіти здаються не дуже плотними, і скоріш за все це тільки моя провина( Але рано про це говорити, вирок буде після повноцінної дегустації стиглих квіточок😋 Тріхоми майже усі мутні, трошки є янтарних. Даю ріпен завтра 04.09 останній раз, далі тільки вода, і харвест. Планую провести харвест на 10 тижні.

Bottom growth getting no sun at all because the girls are just way too stout. I had to defoliate and almost do some lollipopping so that the bottom nodes get some light. So far, it doesn't look like it's going to be much of a harvest. But hopefully they burst one they transition. Fingers crossed! Day 26, 03 Feb, Tues ♥️💛💚 Each got 1700 mL 0.3/L of Tiger Bloom and GrowBig 0.8/L of CalMag and Lots of Big Bloom. To push them to flower sooner. Day 29 06 Feb, Fri ♥️💛💚 Each got 1900 mL Added some Recharge to this 6.4 pH water.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

This is week two of flowering. It looks happy and has stretched 👍🎃👌a lot

I'm guessing there are 2 weeks to go? The trichomes still look mostly clear, but the amber is definitely creeping up. I may have started flushing too soon because the ingoing ppm almost matches the outgoing ppm. Trying not to miss the first harvest date! I'm going to purchase a USB microscope to take better trichome pics.

Final product is been absolutely amazing on these clones - the jungle came out about average but the clones definitely exceeded expectations there absolute fire in comparison but still just as good hopefully I can just improve a few issues we had on this run and dial right in 100% will be so much better, next few run is going to be special I’ve got a few things lined up. From tester packs to breeders packs I can hunt from. So lots to choose from but what to keep to run will be interesting

In dieser Woche ist nichts nennenswertes passiert. Sie reift langsam vor sich hin. Die obersten Blätter sind durch den Lichtstress ordentlich knusprig und es fangen an sich Foxtails zu bilden. Trichome werden jetzt alle 2 Tage gecheckt. Ich denke sie braucht noch eine Woche. Der Geruch ist mittlerweile ziemlich stark geworden.

Avance bien dans sa course.

A little update! Everything has come up to canopy and is in full flower now! The four royals are the centre 4 I will add some close ups next weeks of all bud sites of each plant! Stay tuned as my favourite of all time is in this run! Legendary og punch 🥊 can’t wait! 6 more weeks to go on Monday!

Next week it will be 100% ready 😃

18/07/2020- I've started some light defoliation on both plants to see if they can cope. Im removing lower and larger fan leaves to get more light onto the bud sites. They look super healthy and are getting very sticky. Same nute mix used as last week. 19/07/2020 - More defoliation today; plant seems to like it as flowers are continuing to grow and leaves are going silver. 21/07/2020 - Doubled the number of pk13/14 used in my nute mix to 20ml/10L and continuing to defoliate both plants. They seem to be responding very well. Still using this nute mix PH 6.2 a+b 40ml/10L Pk 13/14 20ml/10L PPM 1170 Temperature of solution ~20c Runoff ph 6.2 22/07/2020 Really struggling to prune the excess leaves on the plant without coming out feeling like I'm covered in glue. I guess there's worse problems to have... QO is going 23/07/2020 Had to travel away with work today; top cola has some minor light burn :( 24/07/2020 - Changed my ducting setup to improve airflow into the tent today and it's working well. I've also put some trellising above the plants so i can tie them up to prevent them from snapping or falling over. They're looking healthy.

I began the second week with 1/4 soil feed of NITRO that is added to the top layer of soil. I'm using Bigbudjuice throughout with a wet feed, and soil application. Day 9 is when the growth really started to happen as the seedlings seem to have good roots. Day 11 the girls were then given a 1/4 of budjuice watering which has resulted in some awesome growth over 3 days. During this week I've slowly increased the intensity while watching how the react and have shown no issues. Currently sitting at 350 Par and will being to.lower slowly to increase par to 450 PAR as the start into Veg. Also lowering RH slowly as well. I am a new grower, and I'm going slowly and steady while learning not to try to much or be crazy ambitious as a beginner. I also began a pre pest control spray on foliage with neem oil/Dr Bronners dish soap/water mix applying every 10-12 days. Thanks for stopping by and if you have any tips or advice it is all welcomed. Super stoked to keep learning as I go, and read the leaves as they are the first warning sign of what is happening. Happy growing 🤙🤙 FYI not sure what went on with #1 leaves but seems to be growing fine, and all other leaves are growing out right.

Die Geschwindigkeit die die Mango G hier hinlegt ist schon stark. Sie riecht sehr süß mit fruchtigen Gelato Noten und einem leicht erdigen Abgang was von der Mango kommt denke ich. Die anderen sehen auch super aus und entwickeln auch sehr süße zitronige und tropische Noten. Ich dachte erst wir hatten ein problem.mit Spinnenmilben, aber unter dem Mikroskop ließ sich nirgends etwas finden. Scheint entweder Lichtstress oder Calcium oder Magnesiummangel zu sein. Wir haben die Dosis an Callmag leicht erhöht. The speed at which the Mango F has developed is impressive. It smells very sweet with fruity gelato notes and a slightly earthy finish, which I think comes from the mango. The others also look great and are developing very sweet lemony and tropical notes. I initially thought we had a problem with spider mites, but nothing could be found under the microscope. It seems to be either light stress or a calcium or magnesium deficiency. We've slightly increased the dose of Callmag.

📆 Semana 12 Las A5 Chaze encaran sus últimos días antes del corte. Con el lavado de raíces completado, la planta ya no empuja crecimiento, sino que concentra todo en madurez, aroma y resina. La estructura se mantiene: la de puntas secundarias termina de compactar, mientras la de cola principal conserva su porte clásico, firme y bien definido. Los tricomas mayoritariamente lechosos, con toques ámbar en las zonas más expuestas, confirman que el punto óptimo está muy cerca. El perfil terroso–especiado se presenta ahora más limpio, profundo y persistente. 🌿 Última semana: estabilidad, riego mínimo y paciencia. La planta se despide afinando cada matiz antes del corte. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

the gorilla cookies came out really good i wish i couldve done more lol the buds were a little air but the potency is really strong im satisfied with this strain i do plain on doin this one again

Heavy heat week. Only feed 2 times this week as of 6-17-26 needed to post before clean up some leaves 🍃 both ladies are getting larger by the day after transplant outdoors some leaves are still showing signs of light burn. Im currently feed liquids and top soil feed with worm casting and royal kings 🤴 ✨️ 💜 😎 grow the site does know Who they are so im mention here. Goal for the summer keep pumping 💪 😎 👌 so we can stop going to dispensaries save my money 💰 🤑 just to make money one day to play off the water bill hahah 😉 . Peace love ☮️ happiness 😊

Easy grow cycle, 5 weeks of vegetation and 7 to 8 weeks of flowering and they are good to harvest. For drying I only removed the bigger fan leaves. Now they are hanging upside down in the tent to dry for about 8 to 10 days before trimming and getting a proper dry weight.

FINALLY STARTING THE PHOTOPERIODS AND I HOPE MY TIMING IS GOOD FOR CHOPPING THE AUTOFLOWERS..........SEEDS PUT INTO THE SOIL ON JUNE 22ND. SORRY TO EVERYONE WHO TRIES TALKING TO ME....I STILL CANT TALK TO ANYONE BECAUSE I TRIED CHANGING MY EMAIL ON HERE AND IT MESSED EVERYTHING UP. I CANT LIKE ANYTHING OR COMMENT ON ANYTHING. THE WORST IS I CANT JOIN CONTESTS STRIVE NUTRIENTS IS THE BEST IVE EVER USED. A MUST TRY AND I BUY IT MYSELF. GOT A SAMPLE LAST YEAR AND ITS SO GOOD I BOUGHT MORE. ITS A 2 PART POWDER NUTRIENT THAT DISSOLVES IN MINUTES AND YOU MIX THE SAME STRENGTH OF THE 2 PART NUTRIENTS FROM WEEK 2 UNTIL THEY ARE FINISHED (BESIDES THE FLUSH), NO MORE BULLSHIT OF SWITCHING TO BLOOM FERTILIZER. THATS MY FAVORITE THING BESIDES THE RESULTS. CHECK EM OUT AND BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ BECAUSE ITS NO BULLSHIT, AWESOME FRIENDLY AND HONEST PEOPLE

Next week I will cut orange bud and Sunzen Sherbet 💚