Día 20 (13/05) Todas las plantas muestran las preflores! Día 21 (14/05) Baño de sol de 2 horas! Día 22 (15/05) N/A Día 23 (16/05) Riego 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/l + Startbooster 0,25 ml/l - pH 6.2 Día 24 (17/05) Las plantas salen al exterior! 😍 Les aplico heno como mulch (acolchado) Día 25 (18/05) Riego 250 ml solo agua todas las plantas Día 26 (19/05) Banana Purple Punch Auto está sedienta! Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/l + Startbooster 0,25 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l- pH 6.2 💦Nutrients by Aptus Holland - www.aptus-holland.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Subiendo como la espuma 🔥🔥 La planta esta empezando a formar múltiples brotes y puntas de muy buen aspecto y color 💪 Aplicamos los nutrientes de forma moderada y poco a poco para no sobrecargar a la planta ya que lleva muy buen camino 👌 Bajamos un 5% la HR y la temperatura la mantenemos como siempre 😉 Hemos sacado del armario el humificador porque con las propias hojas ya crean la humedad justa para su que esten comodas.

Week 6 pf budding is complete yesterday...just a couple to 3 weeks for theses girls...the yellower one will go first...all from the same Bruce Banner Fast pouch of seed but that one looks different...but very diesel smelling....Quite sticky and just a few hairs browning up. Gave them the last Gaia feeding with some Root Farm nutes

The permanent markers are doing alright. They're still really short compared to the others, but they're finally starting to take off. I can kinda see them catching up soon. The new year is off to a frosty start! We've had snow falling for what feels like forever. My kids are loving it, of course. They're building forts, having snowball fights, and turning everything into a winter wonderland. It's been a lot of fun to watch them enjoy it. All this snow is really making me think about how quickly time flies. It feels like just yesterday we were celebrating the holidays, and now here we are knee-deep in winter. I'm looking forward to warmer weather, but for now, I'm enjoying the quiet beauty of fresh snow.

Almost done and ready for harvest

Que pasa familia, vamos con la segunda semana de floración de estas Monster Maker feminizadas de Sweetseeds. Vamos al lío, las plantas se trasplantaron a macetas de 7 litros. El ph se controla en 6.5, la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 12h de luz, el foco está al 50% de potencia. Me gustaría estar más encima este cultivo pero la salud me está impidiendo un poco este 100% con el proyecto. Con suerte la semana que viene andaré mejor. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

29.06. Cherry Poppers 1# 65# Cherry Poppers 2# 62# Both have endured a lot, 2# is still in critical condition, it is missing more than 50% of its leaf mass. 29.06. The plants have finally started growing again, some have almost completely recovered, some are still recovering, and some are in critical condition. The plants stopped growing for almost a week, maybe even that long, during those days they literally made no progress, the situation only worsened to the extent that I was sure that all but one plant would wither... There were storms yesterday and the day before yesterday, and that's why I'm late with the update because I couldn't take a picture of them, the gusts of wind were really strong. Watering is now more frequent and abundant, now I water them every 3rd or 4th day, everything depends on the temperature on those days, whether there is wind, how much moisture there is, etc. The last time they were watered was before the storm and they are already thirsty today as you can see in the pictures, it will be a day and I will water them in the morning. Today I removed their leaves again and now I can freely say that they have twice as few leaves as they should, so when it's time for defoliation, I probably won't do it at all, or at least not a lot. The day before yesterday it was the end of the ninth week for the plants, now they are already in the tenth, but in order not to miss the ninth week, I will write it in the ninth and I will write the next update 2 days earlier, more precisely, on time. The day before yesterday it also rained, there was a downpour for about 40 minutes, but the spray that I sprayed on the plants failed to absorb, it simply stuck to the leaf, it is greasy, you can see that in the pictures, the leaves are shining. I think the biggest problem was caused by the fact that it sticks to the leaf and when the sun is strong, the leaf simply burns. In general, do not use the product from the last picture, it can easily kill the plants. Most of the plants have almost recovered and are getting better, however, the rain can't stop that shit and I also tried to wash it, but it's not worth it, so there is a high probability that the problem will return when the temperatures rise again and the UV is almost extreme and that could be a problem... the temperatures have normalized again to 30 during the day, but in 4-5 days they are announcing again around 36-7.. I will copy the problem that befell the plants from the previous two diaries of other strains from a few days ago in order not to explain everything again, so whoever is interested should read it in more detail. 25.06. the condition is medium sad... the plants have not progressed at all, why? Well, because I'm a moron who doesn't think... Basically, what happened.. I sprayed the plants with an organic preparation against thrips and similar pests and if there was no need for it because this is growing outside and absolutely these little things can't do anything for them except something miserable to slow down their growth, but nothing terrible... and now, I didn't even want it to slow them down miserably, so I ordered a product called "SMC Spidermite Control" I sprayed the plants overnight, the next day when I came to the site, I had something to see... which is the worst I sprayed all the plants, instead of checking on one and only then spraying the others...autos I wanted to spray all the same, luckily I only sprayed 5 of them, as if God himself told me "wait until tomorrow to see how the plants will react" and continue...I come to the site and I have something to see...all the plants, but all, some more, some less, but the leaves were massacred blue, black, purple, there were all colors, everything was there, but the least healthy leaves, as if I had sprayed them with the biggest poison, I think that even in that case they would have passed better... was it the product itself or the sun that was strong during the day (I sprayed them at night and the nights were around 18 C in the coldest part of the night, so they had time to dry, it's not that they couldn't dry, but it all stuck to sheets, it was all shining, I think they could see how bright it was from the plane, but literally... I removed almost 50% of the leaf mass from some plants, from some smaller ones... the tips that were supposed to grow and be ready for a new topping just started, so they had stopped completely for a couple of days literally... the situation is now as you can see in the pictures, there are a few leaves that appeared after spraying with that product, and it is still appearing, but very little, just, just, and this there was no point in leaving the leaves that I plucked because they were completely destroyed, I have never seen them in my life... The site I bought it on said that the preparation was organic and completely safe, nowhere did it say that it can literally kill the plants, not even on the preparation itself... I am very sad about this, I have been spraying them with clean water every morning before sunrise since it appeared and the tops have slowly started to grow, this crap is appearing less and less, and I have no more leaves where should I remove it, I would just kill the plants... I hope they will recover (except for one plant that is in a critical condition and the automatics that were sprayed are also in a very critical condition, they are young and will hardly survive this) but if not, I have another white runtz that is not in the diary, it is a little more than 3 weeks old, so I will transplant it into 200 liters of soil, so at least something will come out... I feel very sorry for the plants, I already have enough money invested, and this is also my therapy, cultivation heals me… I'm very angry with the people who sold it to me, and they didn't warn me about such a thing, if it's not written on the bottle itself and on the website, and I've been buying from them for years and they know what I'm growing... the product is not cheap, I paid money for something that will kill my plants, fuck... I mean, fuck money, I feel sorry for the plants, but you understand what I'm saying... I'm also angry at those who put the product on the market in the first place, and I would say all kinds of things I did it, but it's better to keep quiet... and mostly I'm angry with myself because I believed what it says and didn't check the product, like the biggest amateur... But what's here is now, let's move on... Today is the 57th day of the plant's life, yesterday was the end of the eighth week. Watering is now more frequent, every 3-4 days, it depends, the heat is already high, today it was at least 40 C in the shade, the forecast says 35. Since the last update, the plants were fed once and for the first time after transplanting, this morning most of them were fed for the second time, the next watering or two will be with clean water. Stay High and Keep Growing!!! Growers, please avoid this crap, the product is called " SMC Spidermite Control" This crap seems to have been imported from Ukraine,from chernobyl directly, not from UK lol Only Positive Vibes Stay High and Keep Growing!!!

Day 58, 7th of November 2020: The 6th day since the lamp switched to be 12/12. I raised up the nutrition intake as it can be seen above only the BioBizz family 2ml/l and removed some LST because the plants remain in shape or just set a bit but nothing significant.... They look good and strech is on the way..... These Original Sensible ones are having really nice smell :) Nothing really to report there is crazy 2-3 weeks from now ;)

Chugging along and looking good. Nothing major to report. Keeping feeds pretty consistent. Things are going smooth. Hate to mess that up right now. 🌱 👊🏻

We are all finished! 79 days from seed, 11 weeks !

For this grow I kept my setup a lot simpler than last year. Going with Jack 47 because, well, reviews are awesome and we've had success with Sweet Seeds germinating well. From the pics and videos you can see I've got a simple bucket for the plant with no air stone, pump, or other shit in the plant bucket. All that is in the reservoir. Should make it easier to clean, flush, etc. I'll be able to just pop the lid off (with plant in the net) and put it on a clean bucket with pH balanced water while I clean the rest of the system, then hook it right back up. I also over-designed so I could add a second grow bucket if I want. Don't have space for that at the moment but non-loadbearing walls are easy to move, right? Using General Hydroponics for nutrients and Hydroguard for good measure. Knock wood I'm not jinxing things by posting before I have seedlings.

During this whole grow I would say she was my favorite. She has the fruit funk flora nose and just beautiful bag appeal. Her coals were a lot smaller than the other girls but she was bigger and yeild was similar. I got about 3 zips off of her. I would definitely recommend her

Ladys growing very fast..they are bushy and strong 💪 Lst is hard, i top them and organize them with metal sticks in ground atm. I also lower the ppfd from the lights for them to stretch a bit.. because i was blasting them with light

Davvero buono, gusto e sapore unico

Changed res and added the bloom nutes beginning of the week. Big leaf strip and lollipop, although you wouldn’t think it 3 days after. Starting to get a little frost. Looking good.

Ein weiterer Grow kommt zum Enden. Insgesamt wurden von Anfangs 5 Planzen, 4 zur Ernte gebracht, die andere hat gezwittert und ich habe Sie aus dem Zelt entfernt. Das Ergebniss nach 14 Tage trocknen bei 60-65% RH & 17-20 C. Pheno 1 : 61,40 g Pheno 2 : 33,85 g Pheno 3 : 29,22 g Pheno 4 : 56,42 g Summe : 180,89 g getrimmtes Trockengewicht Seit auf den nächsten Grow gespannt meine Freunde! Smoke Review folgt, wenn die Blüten ordentlich gecured sind.

Venga familia que ya viene la cosecha de estas Kiwi z Papaya de Maverickseeds, que ganas que tenia ya de pasarles la tijera. Que locura de variedad , me encantó cultivarla, que aromas y que flores aparte de piedras, se ven resinosas y muy apetecibles. a sido una genética con la que disfruté bastante todo el proceso, crece bastante vigorosa y al final saca unos tonos llamativos. No supuso ningún problema todo el ciclo fue perfecto. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: Eldruida https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Hasta aquí es todo , espero que lo disfrutéis, buenos humos 💨💨.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Week 3 and a repot is done and now in day 3. Finally it’s settling down after the repot, which was not pretty at all😂 Hope to get some massive plants this run 🌱 ________________________________________________________________________________________ Light from @MedicGrowLED 😎 NEO 780 LED🔥 780 Watt⚡️💥 PPF of 2184 μmol/s & 2.8 μmol/J🔥 Full Spectrum V1/F1 🌈 WiFi smart connection & Smart Aura Control 😱