10/16/18- 1 gallon with Y YUCCA/fresh aloe/amminonthrive/urb natural

The roots are still looking great. I cleared the old water out and only put 2 gallons in and not the 4.5 I was putting in previous weeks. Starting to get a weak smell from the plant.

I flushed them on day 48 with straight R/O water No more nutes, hoping to get a good 10-14 day flush Swelling more and more each day, getting more and more frosty each day

Overall a good week no issues at all. Pictures are in order starting with bottom left corner autoflower moving counter clockwise. Any suggestions or pointers are greatly appreciated!

They are all showing preflower and chugging along nicely.

i removed a bit of half dead leaves from plant 1 at the start of the week and i have been flushing both plants since thursday, they both will go into extended darkness this coming wednesday

These are doin pretty good. The 2 mac x's are doing the best and look promising. The rocstar breath and purple candy paint are a little smaller but doing well. Added some TNB co2 to give them a boost.

Well, the drought stress in week 11 really fucked my plants up, but Twiggy recovered, while Zoey was hurt pretty bad. If I did nothing, I'm betting harvest would've been 25% more, and Zoey's buds wouldn't look so crappy, but overall, I was so happy with this grow! I was under a time crunch, so only did minimal veg for 4 weeks, topping once. Daily watering with 1.8EC mix that was pretty consistent. Kept pH between 5.5 and 5.8. Kept tight control on humidity and temperature up to mid flower, then kept air circulation on to keep room humidity around 55% Things I'd do differently: 1. Veg longer - I'd love to try a mainline 2. Canopy control - wish I had spent the time on a SCROG screen, or at least a couple of rings. 3. More light sooner into flower. Waited about 4 weeks into flower before maxing out the light. Probably could've bulked them up significantly if I started earlier 4. Drought stressing - For Fucks Sake, keep a close eye on your plants, and the minute they start to wilt, get the water back on 'em!!! 5. Measure your run-off more frequently for salt build-up. Didn't have any problems, but it's a good best practice. 6. Set up proper closed-loop environment to allow for CO2 enrichment. 7. Set up a clone environment before you get to flower. Oops. Things I was happy with: 1. VPD control system (heat, humidity) during veg and early flower worked flawlessly. Never any nute burn, and super healthy plants. 2. Sterilized soil and grow-room before starting - never had a single bug or any mold/mildew issues. Used a MERV 13 filter on the air intake, exhaust through carbon to crawlspace. 3. Coco/perlite mix - super drainage, low build-up, very healthy roots. 4. Power meter - neat way to measure what's really going into the grow, so when your wife complains about power usage, you can show her the real numbers. 5. Photone app on Android S20 - Knew where my PPFD was for optimal growth control. 6. REX-C100 PID controller for toaster oven - super tight temperature control comes in handy for decarbing as well as toasting oak for moonshine.

Pulled a few fan leaves, had a house inspection so I had to move them all outside , they went from 26°c to -2°C for ten hours they also had their dark cycle interrupted during the course of moving them. The smell is very strong now from all 6 pheno

Frost level 🤯

Welcome to Week 10, & 21 days into flower ! Feeling pretty under the weather today, not only because i seem to have picked up a head cold..( I've already been tested for covid.. negative..) Pretty annoyed that no matter how much i interact on this site, try to build friendships that benefit both of us reading each others work.. none will even visit my diary, but what is the point in crying about it.., BUT at the same point, why bother writing.. none reads it lol Enjoy your fucking Week. ill see none next week

Welcome to week 6 of flower for this lovely project! Last week was exciting this week should be even more exciting! With the ladies beginning to put on serious weight it's only a matter of time before I'll have to install a second net to help support the branches. With this being about the halfway point I'm excited to see them at the finish line! Huge shout outs to @MarsHydroLED for making epic lights and tents for people to grow in! Huge shout outs to all my followers and people who stop into the diary alike! Keep inspiring to grow! -The Projexx Day#36F Creamy Cereal is PUMPING frost now with its undeniable smell of fruit loops and milk. Day#37F Ladies are putting on mass and quickly! Day#38F Macmelonz continues to stretch and stack but looks like its nearing the end for her stretch phase. Hopefully she pumps HUGE kickass flowers for me. Day#39F Flowers are almost the size of a soda can now. The trichomes on these plants are wild like trichomes over trichomes. The flowers have really picked up on the aroma department as well very please with the plants. Day#40F Raised the light abit, Flowers are starting to display colour in them now can't wait to see them in a few weeks! Day#41F Pictures N/A. Ladies are still beefing up flowers some of the pistols are starting to turn. Day#42F Ladies are still putting on mass daily. Lots of lovely unique smells coming from the plants. Recap: Things went well this week , the ladies really put on some mass and all the flowers are hard as rocks! I will be taking away leaves over the course of the coming weeks to ensure the airflow to the flowers. Excited to see what the coming weeks bring!

Day 97 Nothing more to say just enjoy :D right one still struggling but she is getting there. Big buds also the biggest stretch and very much sativa pheno like.

Ya casi por finalizar 😃 estoy muy emocionado por el resultado final, todo pinta bien 👌🏻💯 se puede mejorar aún más pero estoy conforme con el resultado de esta planta 🌱 Esta semana fui bajando la ec poco a poco hasta llegar a pura agua, la semana que viene será de puro flush 🚿 ya para cosechar 🤩

Gave it extra week and 2 days dark ending 9 hours day cycle. Very slight pine, kush, and delicious limonene flavor. No skunk or harsh earthyness at all. Will post more pics. Very potent!

Großartig gewachsen aber zugleich eine Pflanze Überdüngt. Ich war überrascht im Rückblick das schnelle und unaufhaltsame Wachstum. Da ich anfangs nur den Ph wert grob geschätzt habe habe ich glaube ich Anfänger Fehler gemacht und den PH wert ganz locker genommen. eine Pflanze hat die spitzen verbrannt und wächst seit dem relativ dünn und mager, trotzdem wuchsen sie stetig. Somit habe ich mir ein PH Messgerät angelegt. jetzt wird genau auf 6.2 PH alles angepasst. Kann durch den PH wert oder dem Dünger das Problem entstanden sein? LTS hat genial funktioniert und hat bei jeder Pflanze schöne Äste gebildet. es schaut fast schon aus als ob die Pflanzen in Blüte gehen wollen. Ich freue mich auf die nächste Woche!

The autos stems are really thickening up this week and have started to really expand the leaf size. probably good to note that 3 of the dosi-do autos are as wide as the 5 gallon fabric pots now and only on the 3rd set of leaf's. the Goat'lato has the most impressive starter leaf ive seen in a while also just being so wide and ridged. I added a 1500 watt ceramic heater to the grow room since temps are decreasing every night here in the pnw. the plants have seemed to really respond well and started drinking faster. on 10/30 i gave them a small dose of fish & kelp ph'ed to 6.0 I am adding a picture of the soil recipe i am using for these autos as i would like to openly share any knowledge i'm able to. feel free to use it as is or tweak it any way you see fit. so far its been an amazing start but only time will tell how it does throughout flower. i do plan on top dressing with gaia green bloom feed around week 2 of flower also. dates range 10/24 - 10/31

I got these as clones. Using a cheap 600 watt led light from China paid like 50 bucks. Started with a few weeks of Buddha grow from aurora. I topped the sugar candy a week before Veg was done. I topped the peyote and topped it again on one side by accident which made the plant look like a U but missing half of the U. They grew about 3-4 feet tall. Very white looking hairs. Just started week 5. Used regular lite soil with aurora soul bloom. Also used fish shit and terpinator during flowering. Week 6 just bloom and terp I plan on lowering nutrients from here on as I start to plan the flushing in week 7

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.