She's just about done with overdrive, will start flushing her Monday. Looking at a half decent harvest from her, buds are nice n fat and resinous and she stinks to high heaven. Had to tie a couple of side branches up to the main stalk as they were hitting the floor almost.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Flowering day 35 since time change to 12/12 h. Hey everyone 😀. Both phenotypes continue to develop very nicely :-). The buds are getting bigger and bigger and the sweet smell starts to waft through the tent 😍. It's very much in the Skunk direction 👍. It was watered twice this week with 1.2 l per watering per plant. The tent was cleaned and everything checked for health 👍. We'll see you again next week :-) Until then, I wish you and your families a Merry Christmas 👍😀🙏🏻. Stay healthy and let it grow 🍀 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/sweet-skunk-f1-fast-version/ Type: Sweet Skunk F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Sweet Skunk Auto (SWS34) X Early Skunk 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Farbenpracht. Meine 2te DNA Erfahrung. Und ich bin begeistert.

A temperatura está bastante alta, estou ligando as luzes à noite e desligando durante o dia, mesmo assim a temperatura média está em 31 graus. Fiz aplicação de magnésio na White widow #2 mas ela não mostra sinais de estar se recuperando. As C99xBB estão perfeitamente adaptadas a temperatura alta e estão se desenvolvendo muito bem, as duas são bastante parecidas e estão começando a liberar um aroma idêntico ao da pitomba (uma fruta tropical) e também sinto um cheiro muito presente e pitanga.

Bonjour à tous, les titinnes poussent bien,ça leur fait 5 jours de germination. Je suis satisfait de mon composte fait maison, j'ai fait tout mes mélange ( composte + zeolithe + guano diff et pour finir terreau zéro mix). Je vous à très vite, salut à tous 😉😊

It’s been plenty of work for me this week,,with final LST moves made,,which is always tricky trying to space evenly,, plenty of lumens making their way to the right spots now after a good defoliation session,,and this girl has no excuses,,,,!!! backed off the bloom food a little aswell due to some unwanted discolouration ,,but gave her a good flush with some fresh water and great kelp tonic i got my hands on,,,Day 60 now 👍😎

They are stretching a little bit but they should balance out. If they don’t turn out good I might just do clones but it has been a fun experiment

Flushing. Chopping any day no.

Great Strain, I will definitely grow it again and can only recommend it to everyone Nice fruity fuel smell, great color and dense buds

Week 5 on these amazing girls. They're full into the flower stage and the smells are starting to come through super strong. I've switched over to bloom nutes and they seemed to never skip a beat. All in all excited to see what the coming weeks have in store. Happy Growing.

Fruity pebbles auto is doing good. She has a nice start into the solution. I clipped the tips of her long root to help keep root base closer to the basket. Also makes them spread out wider vs longer. Everything is looking good. Thank you ILGM. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Its day 54 and giving fum ammounts of ghe bloom ( almost 3ml/l ) these girls are going strong in flower! Was lil worried bcos so long veg time😁

She gets bushy got the net back on

Been a good week plenty of sun happy days.new greenhouse built.bring on the summer

7/18 Plants are looking great. I was able to rearrange the plants so they have a little bit more space and so I can get around every plant. I have small random pest damage (i.e. I caught a four lined plant bug while hunting jpn beetles) but not enough h to warrant treatment. I will probably spray before flower. Sun's out amd plants were praying. I rotated a couple and it only took a few hours for them to "straighten out." I went to look again rhis morning and made the final determination to expand the cage. I'm looking for the 2x4's and the wire in the next couple days. The work that ive done now will but me sometime. I wonder how this rain impacted my soil. 7/19 Plants are looking fantastic. The stretch is starting. One purple punch looks like it's beginning to flower. I think I'm entering the transition period. Jpn beetle damage is evident but not significant. I defoliated a leaf with a a leafminwr or something in it. It's so much easier to get around the plants now. I'm seeing some chunks missing sporadically though. Went to the roses out back and found TONS of jpn beetleson top of each other reproducing. They destroyed that rose bush. I'm going to keep it as a trap plant. My dad's girlfriend wanted to spray it but that doesn't make sense as theflowers are all gone. Dad's grabbing the materials to extend the cage today I think. Right now I can get around every plant but the two big ones in the back. I just cant get to the backs of them and they are huge. Almost reaching the top of the cage. A 4'-6' extension will do wonders in flower. Can't wait. UPDATE: Dad got the 2x4's and we assembled the extension and attached it. He's grabbing the wire as I type this. This worked out beautifully. I had no idea how big the blueberry cheese in the 50 gallon was! This extension (4ft i think) is PERFECT! Then I can get a little extra wire and pull it out if I wanted to. I think I have another 2x4 that I'm going to use in the middle. Lots of great pics and a video I'll upload tomorrow. Hot af today and humidity still super high. Even the commercial dudes was surprised I don't have wpm l and that judging by some of my plants structure that I may do better than I think. I certainly hope so. I WATERED 3 GALLONS OVER THE WHOLE GARDEN. The blueberry cheese in smart pots were drooping. They drink far more water than tje others. I would've given more but we are supposed to have thunderstorms. I left my back tarp off for the night. It will increase airflow and wind is down. I feel like this is going to be my year. 7/20 I updated and loaded everything on the app but notjing would save. Did it again in the website hopfully this saves i didnt put it all up. Didn't water the plants today. Bags seemed okay weight wise. Good thing I did the extension yesterday because those three plants were drooping they were so thirsty. I focused most of the water yesterday on those plants that needed it. The others were somewhat dry but still had some weight. Like i said the blc drinks much more water than any of the other plants. I'm impressed with the growth I'm seeing. Especially since I have been being very stingy with the water and I've only fed like twice and that was just the kelp me/you and big bloom in negligible amounts. I'm watching for deficiencies. I'm just not seeing them. I'm picking up the wire and finishing the extension and then rearranging things. I'll update. UPDATE: WATERED 4 GALLONS CONCENTRATING ON THE PLANTS THAT WERE DROOPING THE MOST. FINISHED ENCLOSURE AND INCREASED PLANT SPACE. TRELLIS WILL GO UP THIS WEEK. VIDEOS WILL BE UPLOADED TOMORROW. 7/21 I should've watered more volume last night. I noticed two plants that seemed much lighter than the rest. After some deliberation I gave them each a half gallon of water. One was the purple punch in the 10 that's huge amd the other was that huge blueberry cheese. I think I'm going to swap places with them, take out a pallet and get some other way to elevate that ONE plant and I'll have even more room. Then I'll add my supports. It's a dream working in there now. I noticed some small interior leaves being used up and dieing. I defoliated them but it was only a couple. I'll need to start nutes at some point. Doesn't need it yet though. I'm going to add some kelp me/you for the heat stress. I need to get the watering down better but it's more difficult when they each have different needs. I kinda have to read the plant. I'd rather be overwatered than underwatered. I tried to upload what I could but some won't. UPDATE: I went over to clip off some fencing that was doubled up AND just to check on tge girls. Found two caterpillars (small but hairy so they were older not the inch worms and possibly what has been contributing to damage on those plants. Things are spread out so it will be harder for insects to move from plant to plant and I have better air flow. I worry that leaving my tarp off might lead to high winds and plants not able to take it buf I digress. I'll add supports later. Plants are huge and drinking far more water than I've been giving them. When I got there several were drooped right over and dry as a bone. The bags are essentially all roots now. I mixed up 8 gallons of water and split it between the plants. I gave less to the two Co trainer plants that weren't drooping and the 10 I watered yesterday that wasn't drooping but for the most part the ones that needed if got at least a gallon or more. The others a little under a gallon. It might rain A LITTLE tonight too. Oh, and since it's been so hot I added 1/2 tsp per gallon of kelp me kelp you to help the plants deal with heat stress. I also noticed that some of the very bottom interior leaves are being used up. I have a feeling ill need to switch to nutes pretty soon. Plus I need to suppirt those plants if I'm going to leave that tarp off and Gove them air. Took a video. But it won't upload here. I'll have to wait till tomm. 7/22 Didn't have much timevthis morning bit I dod a video. Boy those plants loved that water and that kelp. This morning everyone was standing straight up at attention. Supposed to get rain last night but didn't. Good thing I watered. I think I'm going to up the water next watering and then again to the 10% mark if necessary. Especially with the Blueberry cheeses. I'm noticing that a FEW INTERIOR leaves are showing nute deficiencies so I'm probably going to have to start feeding soon. I'll update later. UPDATE: Went back over and cut off the extra wire. I'm going to need to water more volume. Specifically on two plants. The two huge blueberry cheese in 20 gallon smart bags dries out much faster than the rest. I'll have to out that on a different schedule or increase the amount given. Next watering will be 1.5 or 2 gallons a plant and it might be tomorrow from what I was seeing. It's super hot and with the added airflow the bags dry out faster. I also went through EACH plant looking for pests and defoliating old leaves that needed it. Plants are still nice and green but a VERY few older interior leaves are showing deficiencies. I know this is Normal especially since they are trying n g to transition to flower. I also saw pest damage on a couple plants. Four lined plant bug. I already found the one on the other plant and killed it but I'm considering doing a spray before flower. I'm thinking either captain Jack as a "catch all", BT which works great but mostly just on pillars or the organocide bee safe 3 in one pesticide. I also have pyrethium and other things. Thus far picking things off manually has been good enough. At the very least they will get an application of BT very soon. 7/23 Held off on watering this morning. Supposed to get thunder storms I DID split a gallon with two blueberry cheese that were the lightest in the 20 gallon smart pots. Thet drink way more. My water volume is going to need to increase. We haven't had nearly enough rain. I'm going to bump it up to 1.5 to 2 gallons each plant which will be 10% for the 20s and a little less for the others. I'm still seeing various pest damage. Nothing bad but I found another couples leaves that were chomped on by a four lined plant bug so I'm debating applying something tonight when I water. I'm also noticing old leaves being used up and some interior leaves showing slight deficiencies. It will be time to start nutes soon. I'll update as I go. UPDATE: GOT THE FEELING I NEEDED TO CHECK THE PLANTS. SOMETHING DODNT LOOK RIGHT ON THE CAMS. WENT OVER AND EVERY PLANT BUT THE TWO I SPLIT A GALLON WITH AND THE PLANT IN THE 50 WERE DROOPED RIGHT OVER. LIFELESS. I SHOULD'VE WATERED THIS MORNING BUT I DIDNT HAVE TIME. I FIGURED THEY COULD WAIT UNTIL NIGHT. EACH PLANT GOT 1.5 GALLONS AT LEAST. I USED SIXTEEN OR SEVENTEEN GALLONS ON THE GARDEN. I GAVE EACH CONTAINER PLANT ONE GALLON AND GOT RUN OFF FROM BOTH. IM NOTICING SKIGHT FADING IN LEAVES BUT IM NOT INTRODUCING NUTES TO UNDERWATERED PLANTS. I THINK 10% IS GONNA BE TGE MAGIC NUMBER. 2 GALLONS EACH. EVEN THE 10 GALLON SMART POT. ALMLST AS BIG AS THE 30S BUT DRIES OUT QUICKER. 7/24 Plants looked fantastic this morning. Defoliated a few leaves that needed it. Showed my commercial buddy and he said things looked fantastic. Since the soils still holding nutes and I'm not seeing many deficiencies I may hold off on feeding. I'm starting early flower now. I will be using nutes soon. I think ive got the watering schedule pretty much down.

Wow, another week done. It's become an absolute jungle in my greenhouse. A few of the GG4/Sherbets tops had to be mainlined since they're hitting the top of the greenhouse at 7ft8in tall. The smell is definitely getting stronger every day and it goes from super pungent, to sweet, to almost tropical. They're all still looking nice and healthy. The Athena Blended Line works wonders with my well water as the plants couldn't be happier. All in all Happy Growing.