Nothing much tae say really a hope the triple g makes it to the end of ita cycle and the unexpected church seems tae be a bonus beautiful looking healthy plant with a strong orange zest coming off it will also have the pleasure of an early smoke win win

Diese Woche habe ich sie noch einmal ordentlich entlaubt. Jetzt ist sie ready für die Blüte. Die letzten zwei Tage durfte sie in Ruhe chillen und sich erholen. Ab heute bekommt sie 75 % Lampenleistung. Ich hoffe auf richtig große, schwere, fett stinkende Buds.😅🤣😎

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More is coming later on! Curing is ongoing. Due to storage shortage, i try the bucket. Its a 12 liter bucket and its filled for 1/3. 😇😇😇

Let’s Go Day 67 from seed !! So this week went real great! 2 Ogreberrys an Bruce Banner started getting flushed! The rest will follow up and start flush next week ! Today the 3 will continue getting flushed while the 3 others get there dose of nutrients, PHd at 6.5! Let’s grow lil ladies let’s grow!!! You all have an amazing productive day as well as a a great safe week !! Peace love and positive vibes to y’all Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨🤙🏻If there’s any questions please ask, I’ll be opened up to answer at best of my knowledge! Thank you all have a dank day !!

So after this week the out break hit. I grow for self medicine as a Crohn’s Disease sufferer and am heavily immunocomprimised. I had to relocate to a rural location to truly self isolate and the plants definitely stressed.

This update is dedicated to @greenmachine. Slurricane blast with Butane. Dimonds and sauce. Is there anything more to say? It came out BEAUTIFUL. 🔥💎🔥💎🔥💎😁

Hi everyone ! buds are fatn up well 😍 some of them are huuuge, lot of pistils and snow 😁 !! smell is stronger now ^^ See you next week

Die pflanze ist jetzt bereit für die ernte die setlinge habe ich schon geerntet. Und die Lampe ist aus.

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

I'm sorry, but at the time I stopped updating the diaries because I moved to a new house and changed my routines. I'll leave a photo of the final product here, but don't worry, I'll be back at full speed. 🚀🚀 new diaries coming 🔜🔜

Mal sehen was kommt.. im Anschluss Folgen Neon Runt

Bad weather for they first day outside, I hope they will be able to grow, weather forecast are positive for the next days, let's cross the finger.. 🤞😁

Week 9 is coming to an end and it's almost time to harvest. At this point the plants are really loud. I dimmed the light and will probably harvest during week 10. At this point I won't water the plants any more.

Hola amigo! Una semana más de vida para las pequeñas y ya se ven muy establecidas ☘️ Apenas hemos regado una vez desde la siembra ya que se mantuvo la primera semana en ambiente a 90% de humedad relativa. Las puntas de las hojas que hicieron contacto con el borde húmedo sufrieron un poco. Ya están recuperándose ✌️ Ph: 6.1-6.5 EC: 350 PPM 020+/020- HR: 65% 5+5-. C⁰: 19-26% A ellas parece gustarles el sustrato liviano mezclado con composta madura... ☘️ #4 ya alcanza los 8 cm de altura! Saludos a todos y mucha paz gente.

hello fellas have ya seen my clone that refuses to grow it is still alive making only three finger leaves i should kill it but i cant lol gonna see where that brings us looks like i am gone be in flower for about nine weeks THREE WEEKS TO GO i see the cola formation growing in am thinking if i would feed them this week they now have got three waterings plain water i guess i am gonna do that 600ml every other day biobizz + water

Feb 19th, - week 9 of flower sees a lot of subtle changes going on. The smell at the door is one, and it’s becoming a very dense and dark odour. Fruit-like up close. - Molasses doubled as root boosters get removed and Calimg has only 1 feed left, tonight. - Mar 1 is the tentative flush, first day of week 11 in flower. Those will be a long couple of weeks, feeding h20 & sugar only - noticing the stems of Fan leaves are turning Red/Crimson on L plant. A few are in the R as well. ** question asked about Red Stems ** 23rd - noticing a definite increase in the Trichomes of the Buds, under the UVB (pics tonight). There are simply more now and it’s kinda obvious when side by side. Lite spill from uvb is falling on the left plant as well, but not from 14” - feed tonite will include a bit of CaliMag once again moving forward and a lingering taste of Medi-One. - Trichomes were checked today. As happy as I was to see a few Amber ones. They were very wide-spread with most of the others still 50/50 clear and cloudy. - Based on todays Trichome check; hoping to flush ~ Mar 7 now. That will be the end of 11 complete weeks of Flower. FYI: Breeders expectation "11-12” weeks. Happy to see it linger a bit, diet, humidity and lighting changes have been incremental throughout. How quickly the next changes happen ie: clear to cloudy etc., I have no idea. Would love to see ~ 10% Amber, just enough to say it’s Very ripe. ( Not in any way thinking of couch-lock lol ) - literature & product labels on Humic Acid recommend usage throughout Veg & Flower... just Not the last 3 weeks. That rules this batch out... So the next batch(s) get introduced. - Macro shots tonight of the Buds under the UVB... cannot wait. ** found 1 bud on the R plant, that had quite a bit of Amber showing. Nowhere to be seen in the L plant, but it looks like a high concentration of Cloudy Trichomes on the L regardless. One more serious search tonight of the R plant and it may just be time for a rinse. Surprised to see so many Ambers, alone on this one bud. Pics uploaded ! re: 24th a.m. Feb24th, - when the lights came on this evening, I did another thorough check on both plants and there were more Amber trichomes found. Ready or not, both plants were Thoroughly flushed. - Flush aid used in the process. - 10 Litres of Water was mixed with Molasses / Rezin as the first liquids poured into the plants, after the Flush... - when it came right down to it, the sudden appearance and then rapid spreading of the Amber Trichomes made it an easy call, to flush both plants. Thoughts on the amount of white hairs left... they have a couple weeks to get their shit together... if I can get a couple weeks of flushing-in, that’s a definite bonus. 25th - humidity spike in the Tent. doors are cracked and a floor fan has been added for extra air flow. Exhaust fan increased... 26th, no liquid to remove from the plants btm Trays, but still showing a high humidity. R.H. coming down slowly, aimed the fans at the fabric pots... doors cracked etc. * why mess around, hooked up the dehumidifier... R.H. dropping, end of issue

Final Report: Grow: The plants has grown very beautiful and healty without pests and diseases. They grown bushy and with medium height during the vegetative stage. I had try to use LST in third veg week but i did't made correctly and after that i dicided to return to grown normally without any particolar tecnique. I used a littel more fertilizer then mine usual and that made the plants grown fast without any problem. In the first two weeks of flowering stage the plants started grow taller and the number of the branches increase, in this phase i only defoliated when the fan leaves turn yellow in late stage. Form the start to the end the flowers grown dense and bigger every day and this time i waited until almost all of them were mature before harvest the plants. I changed the plants from one grow room to another(in the sixth week) when they became too high and they couldn't stay more in the smaller grow box(nothing changed in the enviroment between the two boxes). Equipment and grow box: The enviorment of grow box has been optimized every stage with the right temperature, umidity and air flow. Vegetative temp/umidity --> 23-29 °C/45-55% Flowering temp/umidity --> 20-26 °C/40-50% The air flow was created by two pc fans and one big fan. Harvest: This time i harvest a big numeber of beautifull dense buds and i just discarde only few fluffy buds in the lower branches. The result of this grow is amezing compared to my old expiriences. I harvested the flower and i made a fast curing process after i washed the crop and i let them to dry with a fan on it. After five days a take the branches which were to dry and i did the final trimmig before put all the harvest in a open jar for finishing to dry. I collected all the leaves, fluffy buds and trimming scraps in a bag and i let them dry. Later i put the bag in the freezer and when i collect and dried all the scraps from OG Kush and Dandoverde Haze i did some Ice-O-Lator hash. I used 250g of trimming stuff and i made 11.50 g of hash, I had use a set of 5 bag and i take the resin from the 160µ - 120µ - 73µ- 25µ bags. I pressed all the resin in a great block of tasty strong hash. Always better every time 😊💪 Total harvest ---> 90g only of dense buds and 11.50g of hash.