It was an easy harvest as the colas developed nicely. Hardly any popcorn nugs and very little sugar leaves. If the weather had allowed it, I think she could have grown even bigger, but I'm more than happy with the outcome!

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

Going into week 8 she is looking great. I just added some cha ching and it looks like she doubled in frostyness over night. Its been a little longer than I thought since I last took some close up pics but I still think it shows a difference,

Привет садоводы началась 2 неделя цветения растение не сильно вытянулось вверх и стало густым я заменил HPS на LED TS 600 m-hydro температура понизилась на пару градусов а так все нормально , листья выглядят хорошо поливал последний раз простой водой

Amnesia is really starting to fire 🔥, buds are lining the branches nicely, in particular the 2 crowns where she was tipped early on. The weather has really eased off heat wise, in fact it has changed a bit too quickly, and I kind of hope for a few more warm sunny days now. Amnesia takes heaps of feeding and loves it for the most part. No sign of burn, but I have one bud that seems to have a lime yellow outbreak on top. I’m not too worried because it’s only on one bud, and it’s going away a bit now, but it’s weird and I wonder if you guys have seen this before @grey_wolf or @Med_in_Tropic?? Maybe she got the corona!! 🍻

Nice buds very sticky 💥 The smell its not a cheese in particular its the whooole plate of cheese with the jam & the dried fruits & earthy its delicious!🧀🍇

The plant on the right has stretched and has taken over. It is about 3 times the size of the plant on the left. I have not used any added nutrients yet for this grow beside The Osmocote plus that I mixed directly into the soil when I planted the seeds. SO far their doesn’t seem seem to be any deficiencies but at some point during flowering I plan on giving them some miricle grow bloom booster if they seem to get hungry.

Expecting a awesome top shelf smoke from this girl, smell is mid way, a lot less than other strains, so it make a good option to stealth, but not the best. Superb strain, will update on the effects after dry and fully cured, high is supposed to be mild and functional, this is my first medical strain with high CBD, super curious. ---WET WEIGHT--- 421G ---DRY WEIGHT--- 95G just flowers000 ---UPDATE 2 . After harvest--- -A -Jaring After drying till the stems almost snap, in a rack, I separed the flowers, weighted and jared for cure. -B-Vape report. Vaped with a Davinci IQ, about .5 from the uncurred buds, from 350f to 430f max temp. Since the begging of the session you feel this is a special strain, taste is 5/5 vapor production is insane 5/5, and the effect as discribed by RQS, a stress killer that allows you to funcione normally, think it as a mild relaxant, is what i was looking for so super satisfyed! As you increase the vaping temps you feel the effects stronger, basically is a good body sensation and head tranquility, no paranoia, no confusion, no psychoactive stone. The side effects i feel is the classic dry mouth, not too strong though. -C-Joint smoke. Nice and smooth it hits with a mild sensation, very relaxing, no couch lock, mental trip or anything, i’m certain is similar to canna-tonic some how, very enjoyable, sweet taste tones of citrus earthy and woody. -D-Bong hit. Not a fan of bongs, i feel vaping gives a better overall experience, though for the sake of the diary, i did a bong hit to check, filled a full bowl and hitted mutiple times, the smoke is smooth, no harshness, though is a bit more intense than smoking a joint. ---UPDATE 3 . Final— Well guys, this concludes my diary, with this final update. After two weeks cure, i feel is already cured for the most part, one more week and all the cruise part will be done, after that it continues but slowly. It was fun to grow, and top shelf smoke. Note that is not a recreative smoke, is functional and enjoyable, i feel that if you have a super strong strain you can dilute in to this one and have a more controlled high. Smoking, vaping in multiple temperatures and i could still function, work, speak on the phone and think clear. Looking for a Stress Killer, high in CBD, that will melt your stress and concerns so you can go on with your duties and enjoy a nice smoke, give this strain a go, and let me know so i can follow your diary and know your opinion. Cheers everyone and thanks for those who contributed to the diary in any manner, or passed by. Happy growing always. 00

Day 60F The PM on the cheese has gotten significantly worse in the last few days. I think it may have something to do with the constant humidity spikes every time I water. I haven’t been running my humidifier at all in flower so maybe it’s having trouble keeping the RH up during lights on. Just another reason to follow a daily watering schedule. The cheese and slurricane look fucking disgusting and I’m starting to doubt that a peroxide wash can totally fix it. It worked well for my outdoor crop so it should be fine but this time there is probably 3x the amount. I’ll make sure to really soak the buds and rinse them off good. Bbb#1 is flopping over like crazy from the weight. Too late to stake it up now so hopefully it holds until next week. Starting to foxtail a bit but nothing too bad. It is now 100% done and ready for chop. Bbb#2 is just getting frostier and frostier by the day. The purple fade is really coming along nicely too. Might reveg. It is now 100% done and ready for harvest. Black garlic #1 is finally filling out! I can’t believe it. Never heard of a plant packing weight on like that in week 8. The breeder did mention that it packs on weight later but I’m stunned. Taking her to 9.5 weeks. Black garlic #2 is looking very average. Average color, average size buds, average frost, average smell, probably an average yield. And it’s starting to get a bit of PM. Overall not happy. Will be taking her to 9.5 weeks. Zkittlez #1 has pleasantly surprised me. It was a bushy runt in veg but came through. It’s the third frostiest in the tent, super dense, stacked tight, smells great and looks great. It’s already got a nice amount of amber so it’s 100% ready for chop. Slurricane #4 looks insanely frosty even under all that PM. If I can’t wash it off it’s going in the trash. I want to chop this asap but have to cut everything at once unfortunately. It’s 100% ready for harvest. Badazz OG cheese is looking like a decent yielder but doesn’t have much else going for it. I think it still has some filling out to do. I can’t even smell the final profile change yet. The leaves are rotting off very quickly. Taking her 9.5 weeks. I don’t mind harvesting a bit later rather than early. From my outdoor experience, when a plant is picked early it smells like hay and wet grass clippings until it’s been curing for 3 weeks. When I harvest late or at 30-50% amber trichomes it smells like same scent profile it had when growing. Just my experience. I’ve read that the tobacco industry adds calcium and potassium carbonate to their crops to help promote fire holding capacity and to increase the whiteness of ash. Turns out some of the organic amendments I bought last week contain exactly that. I’m going to give each plant a light top dress to see if the tobacco industry is onto something.

Ultima settimana di flushing.anche lei la vedo bella e sicuramente buona ..questa banana 🍌 strawberry 🍓...sempre complimenti a fast buds ..bravi bravi...... Altri 2/3, giorni e taglio anche lei

Día 36. Estamos en 6ta semana. Los esquejes se atrasaron debido a que han sido días muy fríos y no he logrado enraizarlos. Decidí poner el extractor de aire junto con la bomba de aire, así solamente se prende 15 minutos cada hora. Así estoy logrando temperaturas mayores a 24°C en el indoor y así voy a lograr el enraizado. La planta ya tiene un tamaño que ocupa casi todo el indoor. Pero lo importante es que la voy guiando y ya estoy proyectando como va a ir cada rama. El tamaño va a exceder lo que esperaba, pero aún así creo que si logro lo que tengo en mente, voy a sacar muy buenos resultados. Igual no me voy a arriesgar demasiado, así que si contando 10 días desde ahora, no logro que los esquejes enraicen, voy a pasar la madre a floración sola. Cómo pueden ver, las ramas están bastante gruesas, y el la ramificaciones van ganando su lugar cada una. Las raíces son demasiado grandes, aunque sé que voy a poder poner la planta en el sistema de arriba igual, aunque me voy a tener que ayudar de algo para meterlas. Es importante no utilizar las manos, ya que se pueden transmitir muchos hongos. Voy a seguir actualizando e ir viendo que pasa. Pero ya estamos en los últimos días de crecimiento, haya o no esquejes. Incluso puede que ya pase la planta al indoor de arriba para darle mayor libertad de crecimiento. Esto me va a servir para tlmar en cuenta en la próxima camada que se vendrá. La idea de esto es hacer las cosas rápido, y no en gran tamaño. Pero siendo que ya estoy en el baile, no me queda otra que bailar. Día 40 Los esquejes no estaban enraizando, así que decidí cambiarlos de lugar y los puse arriba de la luz, donde les da calor y luz tenue. Espero que ahora si agarren. Y hoy fue el gran día, pasé la planta madre al módulo de arriba. Pero lo voy a dejar una semana más creciendo. De esa forma veo si los esquejes llegan a agarrar a tiempo. Y además tuve un problema en el trasplante. Primero que la planta se hizo más grande que lo esperado, y la raíz también. Cuando la pasé, hubo contacto de la raiz con prácticamente todo lo que había cerca. Sumado a que se enredó en el oxigenador, así que quedó una pidra difusora en la raíz. Dado el alto riesgo de haberla contaminado con algún hongo, le puse una solución de agua con agua oxigenada, recirculando continuamente, para lavar las raices y de paso bajar el stress de teansplante. Mañana veremos cómo arranca el día. En el aprendizaje me llevo que en la madre, es mejor hacer un corte en el primer nudo, o dejar las ramas del segundo y quitar las del primero. Y así que queden sólo dos ramas, para luego dejar a los esquejes en el medio. Eso planeo hacer con la próxima variedad. Entre tanto ahora sólo me preocupa que la raíz no se haya contaminado en el traspaso. Ya en 8 días estaré pasando a floración si no hay esquejes. Si llegan a agarrar, habrá que dar unos días de crecimiento hasta que alcancen a la madre en altura. Pero ya está todo en definición. Ahora sólo queda esperar y seguir guiando a la planta. Ya tengo ganas de poner la próxima, pero falta bastante para eso. Tengo 10 semanas de flora, así que recién en 5 semanas voy a poner la nueva madre.

Mkay 🤣🤣 I had to cut the top flowers some supercropping and see if it doesn't cut and go into flower I will have to dispose of the flower

ช่วงนี้จะแดดไม่ค่อยมีเลยครับ ฝนปรอยทั้งวัน อากาศครึ้ม

Day 21. She has taken well to the low stress training. She has started to get fed veg foods. I’m very excited to see how she turns out this time. She is one of my favorites. Some of the creamiest best tasting herb I’ve grown.

Went in a Glass of water on August 13th Removed the next day to be transferred to paper towel Stayed in a dark closet for 2 Days Sent into soil on August 16th

Both plants are currently being flushed, B2 will be ready for harvest the next few days and B1 will still flush for another week. The fade in B2 is incredible, truly my best plant I've grown so far.. best structure, best density, best everything. Looking forward to this harvest for sure. Probably will not post another update until my harvest results in a couple of weeks.

Hello 👋 👋 👋 As a 29th day arrived inside the tent there are many changes 😇 💪 🙏 Purple and Cinderella start flowering a week before Bruce Banner but all girls have got similar high 😇 💪 🙏 63 cm was taken from B.B 😁 All of my beauties expanding in size, flowers sites start to taking a mass and density. Some brown spots shows on humidity effected leafs so I removed them to control a healthy conditions 💪 💪 💪 Update: Day 30 Ladies definitely goes in flowering stage, every day I can observe a massive size and high changes. It's look like the tent will be full of buds soon. I'm very happy to see a purple colour on my Purple Lemonade. I'm excited because this is my first purple strain 😇 🙏 😇 Day 32 I have to move a girls a little to adjust them for better space use. I love to look on them 😍 Spec. Mars-Hydro TSW2000 100% power RAM mix flow 199m3/h Humidity 58% - 65% Have a fantastic day, You Lovely Girls Growers 😇 😇 😇

12/9/2017 - The stretch these girls put on when they hit flower is insane. I'm getting ready to add bamboo stakes for support because I already can tell they are going to have massive nugs on them. They jumped from 9-10inches tall to just shy of 24 inches in under a week. They have now stopped all veg growth and are starting to pack on pistils already. I just got a new bottle of mammoth P so that will be added back into the nutrients starting now. 12/12/2017 - Definitely 2 completely different phenotypes. One is extremely tall (30 inches from pot) and stretched out with a bunch of long side branches. The other is shorter (24 inches from pot) and bushier. It will need some leaf tucking during flower for sure. They are both responding very well to the environment and nutrients (I got more mammoth p finally!!!) I've also used bamboo chutes and this gardening velcro tape stuff that I love to support all of the branches. Based on my Gold Glue grow these plants are about to produce some monster buds that the branches wouldn't be able to support.