Still waiting on them beneficial bugs to arrive at my door mail, meanwhile i keep giving my love and attention to her and she despite the uninvited thrips and the spiderweb here and there that i yet am able to identify the source and i clean every day, she still is looking pretty nice to my eyes, not at all the best color leaf or what ever, she seams to be always starving, i keep increase my EC and the run out it keeps coming lower lol, she is a demanding litle fellow this one 😇😇😇 I will keep you all posted as for what i am doing and how i will deal with this situation so stay tuned since this can go one way or the other lol <3 <3 <3 As always thank you all for stoping by, for checking my journey , for the love support and for it all, i am blessed and humble with you all. Just a reminder , all i grow is medicine for myself, for me and for my best friend with is me nothing to sell, so don’t even ask. 

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Cannot comment on taste or smoke . It has just been harvested , the aroma is making me high tho lolol . It's beginning to look a lot like a happy green Christmas lololol Whooop , il be getting mi freak on big time . Recommend fast buds seeds highly . No problem with seed quality at all , delivery was quick n stealth . It gets a 10 from Len so far : 1:: 1: I live a celibate lifestyle But the only time I get horny n could just find a well hung mother fucker to ride like sea biscuit Is when I've just harvest one of my sexy ladies #Fact eace to all you fine herbalists 🕊️🕊️🕊️000 UPDATE 12/12/18 Didn't want it to dry out to fast so put in curing jar n will open twice a day at least . Will check it tomorrow n maybe do a test smoke. UPDATE ... I can't update smell , taste atm due to a cold starting but the hit I'm getting from smoking it is heavy altho atm not accurate due to afore mentioned cold.

Coming in a day early this week because tomorrow is Thanksgiving. Plants are growing nicely, pistils and colors and frost, all good stuff happening. None of the colas are fat and solid like a pinecone yet, but we're on track for a nice harvest. I'm thinking 4 more weeks.

So , another try for the green gelato. Shes taking off good and left last place in height of the 4×4/4/2020 batch. I gave her a pinch of grow feeding bij greenhouseseeds, the organic line. Grow on, stay high!🍀🍀🍀

Came back on New Years Day to be greeted by plentiful crystal laden flowers and incredibly nice terpene smell. Very glad they did well through the 12 day dry spell, now they can be watered good and well till harvest. One last minor defoliation, then I’ll stick to tying leaves out of the way. Also will begin incorporating the uvb bulbs for about 3 hrs on per light cycle, at about 12” distance from each plant. Cheers all SideNote: I’ve just obtained a load of new seeds from about a dozen strains I chose for high levels of thc, yield, flavor, and overall quality genetics so expect some good things to come from my page within the next few months. Thanks for looking

Everything is looking good and doing good . Not bad for my first run . Also I would love to know about any nutrients that you use . Looking to try new ones so leave a comment .

todo muy bien! esperando paciente el desarrollo de los cogollos, conociendo y viendo los puntos de maduracion asi como la fertilizacion ajustando a su maximo que creemos posible para incentivar que los cogollos engorden, ahora en adelante les hare segumiento de la grande principalmente, que es la que cumple con la edad del diario, ya que las otras como se explico en un principio venian recien cultivadas por eso tienen un par de semanas de retraso , tambien hay una hermafrodita, que al detectar como comentamos semanas anteriores aplicamos al tecnica vista de un cultivador mexicano, consistia en romper los brotes de machos las pelotas con el fin de que no vuelvan a salir, dejando solo los pelos estigmas de las hermbras, si bien el cogollo queda maltratado, al parecer se detiene el crecimiento, asi que estamos viendo como rinde ese experimento.

Creo que me gustan mucho las semillas automáticas no son plantas muy grandes pero si son rápidas y con buena pinta El equipo de fast buds me sorprendió buena genética yo pensando que serían las más pequeñas y una gorila glue está con unos cogollos bastante chonchos y cristalinos super feliz con mis pequeñas auto... happy grow a todos!

She's looking very healthy and very frosty so far as well, she's shining like a diamond,very very citric smell,let's see how she performs.

Ended up flushing Mumma for about 10 days - got her ppm down real low. Night before harvest I set the timer so the light would not come back on in the morning before I harvested (I've seen people who swear by this and other who say it doesn't do anything but figured it couldn't hurt). At this point the other plants are pretty disappointing compared to Mumma so they aren't getting as much "love" lol.

Well, it's finally time for an update, right? And for a newbie like me this week has been quite eventful! 😲 After last week's "Helmet Head" (which I suppose was my fault for not burying the seed deep enough 😱) her leaves started to look twisty, Honestly don't know why that happened but my three hypothesis are: because that's just the way she is, because I didn't properly bury the seed or I made a mistake somewhere else. However I also think she looks pretty and this makes her look quite "special" 👍. In her 6-7th day after sprouting I noticed her leaves started to look even more twisty and she was about to outgrow her cup. I worried and decided that it was the right moment to transplant her. At first I didn't know "how" to do it and all I knew is that I could shock her if I did it wrong (which worried me haha 😨). None of the sites I checked really specified any kind of information regarding how I should prepare the medium for the new plant (just some vague information here and there) so I came with the idea to just water it bit and then "massage" the soil to avoid making it "lumpy" and I feel it did work out well in the end! I feel I didn't shock her much and in her second day she was growing even more as well! Nice! 😍 Next week I'll start feeding Puff with some nutrients but the PPM of the tap water where I live is somewhat high (around 600) and it's electroconductivity is around 1200 us/cm but a lot of growers in here still use it (they just wait for chlorine to evaporate) so I'll try doing the same. I'll use half dose of Biobizz Bio Grow and half dose of another product called Gold Sunshine from Quemanta (which is Cal-Mag with some amino acids) and see how things develop! 😃 I'll try to see if I can make my DSLR take the photos for future timelapses, because my webcam sucks for that job! Thanks everyone for reading 😉

Hi guys! My ladies are streching like crazyStarted to produce flowers.So far is everything goimg ok.Have to remove som lower leves,becouse they started to get yelow.

📅 D57 - 10/10 📜 I added 2 Liters of water with EC 1,5 and pH 5,3. ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 110 cm 📅 D58 - 11/10 📜 I tied the buds to stay away from each other. Also I moved a little bit the lamp. Now seems better. Added 1 L of water with only pH- ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 5,9 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 110 cm 📅 D59 - 12/10 📜 Added 2 liters with EC 0,5 and pH 4,9. Nothing else to report ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 5,9 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 110 cm 📅 D60 - 13/10 📜 Added 2 liters with EC 0,5 and pH 5,3. Flowers became bigger. ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 5,9 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 110 cm 📅 D61 - 14/10 📜 Nothing to report ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 9 L 📏 110 cm 📅 D62 - 15/10 📜 Added 1 L of water to keep stable EC and pH. All seems ok, so far. I made same nice shots. ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 9 L 📏 110 cm 📅 D63 - 16/10 📜 Last day of 4th week of bloom.Tomorrow I wll change the res as the new week starts, with the same EC and pH. ✍️ 1,5 EC ♒ 6 pH 🌊 10 L 📏 110 cm

Привет друзья. Хочу познакомить вас с новым сортом автоцветущих растений от Smail_Seeds сорт ORIGINAL AUTO CHEMZKITTLEZ F1 reg. Сегодня растению 24 дня. Сорт выводим сами. https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds

Growing strong,very bushy lt gives off a nice skunky smell already. I didnt think she was gonna do really well and than all of a sudden boom your thick and bushy

Journal de Culture - Dognabis CupVariété : Diesel Jealousy (Autofloraison) Semaine 4 - 1ère Semaine de Floraison Date : 15 octobre 2025Observations :Les plantes ont doublé de taille grâce au stretch typique de la phase de floraison. État des plantes : saines et vigoureuses, aucun stress observé cette semaine. Paramètres ajustés :PPFD augmenté à 800 (cible atteinte selon les données). VPD réglé autour de 1,0-1,1 kPa (cible atteinte, valeurs mesurées : 1,06 kPa jour, 1,09 kPa nuit). Température moyenne : 24,4 °C (jour), 22,5 °C (nuit) - cible stable. Humidité moyenne : 65,22 % (jour), 59,98 % (nuit) - ajustée pour maintenir le VPD. CO2 : ~900 PPM (cible atteinte). Solution : eau claire Notes :Les paramètres ont été optimisés cette semaine avec une augmentation de la lumière (PPFD) et un réglage précis du VPD, adapté au cycle automatique. Aucune intervention stressante, les plantes répondent bien aux conditions. Objectif pour la semaine prochaine :Maintenir les mêmes paramètres : PPFD à 800, VPD autour de 1,0-1,1 kPa, température et humidité stables, sans stress supplémentaire.

I removed all of the LST strings, to let her grow more freely in her last week. She looks amazing and i am very happy with my first grow. I will harvest her next week or the end of the week. I won't do flushing, because I only use organic fertilizer and want her to grow till her last day. Some crazy Things are happening right now. She ist growing new buds on her buds! I decided to give her another extra week, just to see how this experiment will turn out.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600