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Day 80 for this AK auto she Is big and fat buds with a sweet smell to her I would say she will go till day dy 95- 100 before she gets harvest
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This week brought some challenges—I discovered thrips on the leaves of my plant. Thankfully, the infestation isn’t too severe yet, and I acted quickly to address the issue: 1. Sprayed the plant with plain water to knock off any pests. 2. Removed the top layer of soil. 3. Applied BioBizz Leaf Coat as a protective measure. I really hope this will help. After reading up on these nasty pests, I learned that they can completely devastate the leaves if left unchecked. Unfortunately, I have only myself to blame for their appearance. Due to the cold weather, I’ve been using a heater in the room with my growbox, which has caused the humidity to drop significantly. It sometimes dips as low as 30%, and it rarely goes above 50%. Most of the time, the humidity hovers around 35-40%, which is an ideal breeding ground for thrips. To answer the obvious question—yes, I do have a humidifier. However, my growbox has a very powerful exhaust fan (315 m³/h for an 80x80 space), so the air is refreshed too quickly for the humidifier to make a lasting difference. Aside from fighting thrips, I also made some adjustments to my grow this week. On Day 20, I did a little LST. Honestly, I wasn’t planning on using any training techniques in this grow, but I decided to give it a try anyway. One thing I can say for sure—I want to skip LST in my next grow. It’s quite inconvenient to water the plant when the leaves are practically touching the soil. Additionally, I defoliated the first two sets of leaves. I felt this was necessary to improve airflow around the plant and reduce the risk of pests spreading further. Watering: Day 17: 400 ml Day 20: 500 ml I’m keeping a close eye on the plant and hope to overcome these challenges successfully.
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@Purplemed
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D22. First day of the fourth week, one week away from the automatic flower switch. Strong grow, 28cm high and more than 30cm spread, they made 10cm stretch the last three days since last watering on day 19, today the leafs were pointing down and the digital tensiometer was measuring 71mbar in the bottom of the pots. Today I watered again, this time instead of the usual 500ml each I went closer to 5% of the pots giving em 1L each pH to 6.0 and kept EC in 0.9 from base of 0.4 cal-mag, used biobizz grow, hygrozyme 1ml/L and bactohemp, lowered pH with phosphoric acid. I'll start to LST anytime but today I just cut off everything in the first floor to clear the base since it's already in complete shadow. Next step will be to guide them in order to achieve a flat canopy. The lazy plant is getting stronger everyday but leaf color is diferent than their sisters being same strain, will see how she end up next weeks 💪 D25. At three days from fifth week and official flower switch they keep growing strong like 35 to 40cm high and 35 to 40cm spread but after some leaf anomalies and after watering yesterday I saw something weird in the yellow sticky traps, they were full of black pigment and after check em under microscope they seem to be thrip infestation that I gonna treat with foliar phyretrine and neem oil on the soil but meanwhile I put four more sticky traps. On yesterday watering I made leaf juice mixed with cal-mag, fertilizer, bactohemp and hygrozyme, the reaction when aerating the mix was huge! I got the lazy plant higher to be able to receive similar DLI as her sisters but it still keep growing lazier than the others. I hope the fertilizers arrive in time before flower switch!
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@Manic
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Easiest week so far, no problems just growing. I did spray some neem oil on my soil a few days a go to keep pests out of the fox farm soil. Week 4 will bring in topping after the next node grows in, should be 2 or 3 days. Also towards the end of the week after she recovers from topping I will begin LST. Will provide pics throughout the week Posted first vid in real light not my 600 watt LED. Mainly for health purposes. This will be so interesting to see how blueberry will develop after an accidental FIMing lol. Personal Note: Wait to top when there is a full mainstem and not barely new growth. Meaning wait til the new growth has 2 fan leafs spread out, and not when they are just leafs barley sprouted from the main stem. Rookie mistake number 1 so far at the end of week 3. Or maybe time will tell if blueberry will be gracious enough to be a beautiful big buded tree. I read where FIMing can develop up to 4 extra colas and still grow beautifully. Fingers crossed.
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This week waz beautiful, i flused the 1st plant JackHerer Haze Xl its been 88 days from seed shes ready to harvest! Still got 2 to 3 more weeks to go with the other plant im beyond excited lets go! Love the trichomes production, she smells so good as well! The 2nd plant is looming great really thicking up! Im super greatful shes taking to the nutrients ive been feeding! Just the over drive, and bud candy this last week. This coming week im thinking i should flush but i dont wanna lose a week of feed if i should be feeding so ima have to do some thinking!!!! Any thoughts much love happy growing this is exciting
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Rettungsaktion!! der einzige sämling der die letzte erde überlebt hat. Es lag nun definitiv an der alten Erde wie man sieht. Seit dem umtopfen gehts ihm prechtig. ​Lockdown Kush von @sensiseeds.official vereint die kalifornische Genetik der San Fernando Valley OG mit der Afghani#1, um einen potenten, indicadominierten Hybriden mit zitrisch-kieferartigem Aroma und tief entspannender, euphorischer Wirkung zu schaffen.
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2/3/22: Watered with only aquarium water, no nutes. They are all getting very thirsty! Sherbert was dry and droopy yesterday so I watered her yesterday. I watered all other plants today, they seemed mildly dry/very slightly droopy - so I gave them between a ½-¾ of a gallon each. I'll have to keep a close eye on Sherbet she's very thirsty & she gets hangry easily! (hangry = droopy:)
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Flowering day 3 since time change to 12 / 12 h Hey guys . My cutting heating broke 3-4 weeks ago, which was fixed immediately and everything went wonderfully. Now, 3 days ago, the central heating broke down in the entire room, so that at night I only have temperatures of around 13 degrees :-( . One or the other lady is slowly starting to see a phosphorus blockage, as this can no longer be absorbed at temperatures below 15 degrees, like many other nutrients :-( . A friend looked at the heating yesterday and came to the conclusion that a real company had to do it, which is by no means possible for a stranger to enter my room. I quickly ordered heating mats for all the boxes so that the ladies could at least get warm feet. That's all I have this winter full can do . Let's hope everything will be fine 🙏🏻. As soon as the heating mats are attached in the coming days, I will post them in the pictures. Now for the update. Despite the severe cold, the ladies are still doing well and have made good progres . The ladies only had to be watered once this week, each time with 1 l, because it absorbs the water very slowly because of the cold and I don't want to overwater it. I took every single plant in the pot to take a close look at their roots. These are snow white and look very healthy 🙏🏻. It was also the last time neem oil sprayed so that the last trips are finally gone. Otherwise everything was checked and a lot of planning was done, like I do with the heating mats. Since a friend had the same problem in one winter and the heating mats got 10 degrees plus on the pots, I am very confident that it will at least bring something for the last cold month 😃 🙏🏻. I've started flowering even if some are still a bit small, but otherwise they'll get too wide from training and end up taking up space :-) until then have fun and stay healthy 🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/de/hanfsamen/hippie-therapy-cbd Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany
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This girls cracked in 2 days. They got to 2cm tap root 2 days. Once I put them inside of the Rockwell, they took off pretty fast and moved them into their final homes now. The second set of leaves is just pushing their way through now. So far so good
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@Mati_86
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Das Problem bei recycelter Erde ist das man nicht weiß was noch drin ist nach dem spülen. Die Erde hatte microorganismen und Dünger vom letzten run, den ich soweit ausgespült habe. Danach hatte die Erde immer noch einen ec Wert über 1.2... Aber woraus bestehen die 1.2 ec? Im Nachhinein sah ich das es wohl microorganismen waren die den ec hoch hielten...deshalb hatte ich erstmal nicht gedüngt nach dem umtopfen. Die Erde war auch noch relativ nass und musste trocknen. Dafür hab ich die Erde auf einer Folie ausgebreitet und 2..3 Tage liegen lassen...aber ihr kennt es , die Zeit läuft und das Zelt ist leer was ein nogo ist :) Somit habe ich die Töpfe befüllt und micorrhyzza dazu gegeben. Wie ihr sehen könnt habe ich dann die Lampe auf 80 % gestellt und die blüte eingeleitet. Damit kamen bis auf die acp. Gold die lady's net ganz klar da die Nährstoffe fehlten. Ich versuche sie mineralisch wieder schnell fit zu bekommen und möchte dann mit Bio weiter düngen. Ich verwende verschiedene microorganismen die ich flüssig oder in Pulverform verabreiche. Heute 15.11. Bin ich am Ende der 1. Bt. Woche angelangt. Hab also noch was vor mir bis zur ernte.
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She completed the first week of flowering happily and she keeps stretching. Trailers net added to level the canopies.
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@WeedM8
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Gorgeous flowers getting pumped by this beautiful 600w led light
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got them all in there 10 gallon pots , I don't like too start autos in peat pots in a cup but needs must as I was waiting for the soil too arrive , these first two weeks always seem like watching paint dry , very slow and boring and nothing much seems too happen 😀😴😴😴
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Ya en la recta final familia, están apuntito, solo unos días más. Nuestras lemon kush ya recibieron su lavado de raíces , están sin productos ya solo AGUA. Controlamos de todas formas el Ph igual y que no baje por debajo de 6,2. Bestiales estás flores , un olor muy característico con tonalidades cítricas que recuerdan al limón. Todo un clásico en verdad. Estos ejemplares carecen de brazos laterales, son óptimas para un SOG desde semilla, pudiendo llenar 16 plantas en metro cuadrado.
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Jaaa, was soll ich da noch sagen... 😅😅 Hat Spaß gemacht und das Ergebnis ist Top!! Folgt mir auf Facebook für mehr Infos, Bilder und Videos 🤗 🤗 🤗
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Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.
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Week 4 has begun. LST (Low Stress Training) is starting to show its effects: most of the shoots have grown past the rim of the pot and are being tied down further away from the center—this will continue until the stretch begins. During the stretch phase, no further training will be done; the plants will be allowed to grow upwards undisturbed. I’m curious to see how many shoots will be in the desired position by then, and whether all the shoots or bud sites will be on an even level after the stretch. Until then, defoliation will continue as needed, and tying down will be adjusted accordingly.
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First timenin coco and also this plant is in my veg tent just growing and i got time so i dont grow my plants extrwmöy fast like other people.. I need space to add then to the flower tent. So in that sence this gg4 sherbert made it thro all the stresses that i put most my plants ts thro.. I got a humidifier and all the equipment needed but i purposesly put my plants thro all types of stress lile low humidity and heat and cold and no food and too much . Then at the end the survivors will thrive.. she made it to week 5 soo she is well steong and ready to go.. I gave her a full feed of bo bis neuts and we are ready to take off.. I wiöö transplant next week then she will really have the space to blossemtey 420fastbud for awsome dank guys trust me yo save 15% if u want here https://2fast4buds.com/?af=281965 . Follow me YouTube and intagram guys and ull see constant updates . Thanks 420fast buds for providing the packs!!!! And thank you guys for following me im really thabkfull that somone acctually sees my work in detail insted of always hiding it thanks!!!! only_dankzz4200 https://youtube.com/@thedankzz420?si=brMw2mSIw-nOJkpb
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She's looking really good after her toppings .. I'm going to continue to top every week or sofor a couple weeks. Happy growing everyone ✌️